Catalytic Converter Safe Oil?

I may install a catch can but I believe the problem is the loose tension rings that have been well documented on this engine.

There are other vehicles I'd consider but I do like the way the new Equinoxes look. They don't seem to be as problematic at the 10-17 generation but time will tell since the oldest of the new generation (2018) is only 6 years old. Aside from the oil burning, my Equinox has actually been the most reliable vehicle I've owned. It has never broken down or left me stranded. I will give the piston soak a try however I think the problem lies more in the loose-tension design rather than the rings being gummed up.

I will definitely look into ESP. Currently I run EP HM, change every 5k with a Wix filter and use Supertech full synthetic for tops offs between changes (only $20/5 quart jug)

Unfortunately no open recalls on my car

I knew it was a futile attempt but I replaced the downstream sensor and put a spacer on last week. It actually resulted in more codes so I took the spacer out.

Knock on wood but fortunately nothing of that nature, the most expensive thing I've had to buy at one time for this car is tires. I definitely agree with you that $1000 every few years is cheaper than a new car. This is the original cat so if I can get another OEM cat to last 200k I will be more than happy.

While there's definitely worse motors out there, mention the name 2.4 ecotec around a mechanic and they probably won't have anything good to say. These engines have timing chain problems that are exacerbated by low oil, low tension piston rings that burn oil, and are usually owned by people who don't check their oil or change it often enough. This "trifecta" comes together and gives these engines a very bad name and causes a lot of these cars to go to the junkyard before 150k miles.
My 2.4 in my beater G6 original owner no problems with the motor after 16 years. If you not a person to continually check the oil level expect issues.
 
Will you fail some sort of mandatory inspection with the catalyst inefficiency code present? If not, on a 200K miles Equinox, I'd ride it out as is if the vehicle is running well.

If you have to troubleshoot, I would scan for up and downstream O2 sensor data to see how they read and respond. Maybe a spacer or two would help. Non CARB cat assemblies start at like $200 for this vehicle. Obviously a CARB compliant would be 5x that.
 
I have a Chevy Equinox with the infamous 2.4L Ecotec nearing 200k miles. It's a great running engine and I just replaced the timing chain last year. The transmission and body are in good shape so I have no plans to get a different car any time soon.

Now onto the problem: the check engine light came on a few months ago for catalytic converter efficiency then went off within a couple days. It came on a few weeks ago and stayed on. It burns about a quart of oil every thousand miles and has done so for the last 120k miles. I can only assume that the countless quarts of oil being burned and sent through the catalytic converter has damaged it to where it doesn't function anymore. A new cat from GM is roughly $900 before tax, the aftermarket ones never seem to work or last and of course a used one isn't an option.

So, I'm wondering if there is an oil that is less detrimental to catalytic converters? I know there's oil that is worse (ones that contain high zinc like Redline) but I'm not aware of any that are less harmful to cats. I was thinking possibly PUP made from natural gas might burn "cleaner" if that makes any sense.

I just can't see taking on a $600+ car payment for the next 5 years on a 2024 Equinox when I can keep this one going for far cheaper. I think I've averaged $50 a month in maintenence and repairs over the last few years. I do all my own work so labor is free, parts are cheap and easy to find. I'd also have to learn all the problems and shortcomings of the new body style when I'm already well versed in the 2010-2017 generation. I'm also concerned with long term reliability of that 1.5T with stop/start and all the electronics the new ones have. The 6 speed carried over from the '10-'17 gen so at least that's familiar.
Why would you have to have a $600+ payment?
 
Part of the issue here is the hone that honed the cylinder bores at times did not correctly hone the cylinder bore, which resulted in the rings not sealing properly against the cylinder bore.

Some 2.4s had this issue, some did not.
 
Now onto the problem: the check engine light came on a few months ago for catalytic converter efficiency then went off within a couple days. It came on a few weeks ago and stayed on. It burns about a quart of oil every thousand miles and has done so for the last 120k miles. I can only assume that the countless quarts of oil being burned and sent through the catalytic converter has damaged it to where it doesn't function anymore. A new cat from GM is roughly $900 before tax, the aftermarket ones never seem to work or last and of course a used one isn't an option.

So, I'm wondering if there is an oil that is less detrimental to catalytic converters? I know there's oil that is worse (ones that contain high zinc like Redline) but I'm not aware of any that are less harmful to cats. I was thinking possibly PUP made from natural gas might burn "cleaner" if that makes any sense.

"a quart of oil every thousand miles and has done so for the last 120k miles"


Don't you think you might have this flash of insight a tiny bit too late? :unsure:

Yes, 200k or at least 120k miles before running M1 ESP 5W-30 may perhaps
have slowed this issue you suffer from. Now? Your cat is poisioned. Get a new
one, simply. Oil is no repair, it will never ever be.
.
 
"a quart of oil every thousand miles and has done so for the last 120k miles"

Don't you think you might have this flash of insight a tiny bit too late? :unsure:

Yes, 200k or at least 120k miles before running M1 ESP 5W-30 may perhaps
have slowed this issue you suffer from. Now? Your cat is poisioned. Get a new
one, simply. Oil is no repair, it will never ever be.
.
I'm not sure you understand the point of the post. I'm not trying to fix the poisoned catalytic converter, I'm trying to find a catalytic converter safe oil to maximize the life of the $900 catalytic converter I'm about to buy.
 
Why would you have to have a $600+ payment?
A 2024 Equinox AWD is in the $30k-$35k range depending on options. If we pick $32k, over a 60 month loan at 4.99% that's right at $600 a month. And that's without an extended warranty or including the sales tax in the loan. Can't forget full coverage insurance either. I dropped down to liability years ago when I paid my car off and I've been enjoying the savings ever since.
 
A 2024 Equinox AWD is in the $30k-$35k range depending on options. If we pick $32k, over a 60 month loan at 4.99% that's right at $600 a month. And that's without an extended warranty or including the sales tax in the loan. Can't forget full coverage insurance either. I dropped down to liability years ago when I paid my car off and I've been enjoying the savings ever since.
Are you dead set on another Equinox? Are you opposed to used ones?
 
Are you dead set on another Equinox? Are you opposed to used ones?
No but heavily leaning towards one. I want to stay in this segment and I wouldn't buy a Jeep, Ford, Toyota or Honda. My current Equinox is the first new car I've owned and I don't want to go back to used. Plus interest rates are higher.
 
No but heavily leaning towards one. I want to stay in this segment and I wouldn't buy a Jeep, Ford, Toyota or Honda. My current Equinox is the first new car I've owned and I don't want to go back to used. Plus interest rates are higher.
I get that this is heavily veering away from your original question now, by why not a RAV4?
 
I get that this is heavily veering away from your original question now, by why not a RAV4?
They don't do anything for me. I drove a friend's 2021 and didn't care for the interior. Also Toyota reliability is far overblown. I know people with Toyotas that have far more issues than my Equinox. All I've had to do on my Equinox in 200k miles is tires, brakes, wheel bearings (fronts at 150k, rears at 170k), sway bar links, timing chain, fluid changes, and keep the oil topped off. People say Chevys are so unreliable but ask the owner of any 200k mile Toyota, Honda or any other brand that everybody is always singing the praises of and they will have a similar maintenence/repair list if not even more stuff.
 
People say Chevys are so unreliable but ask the owner of any 200k mile Toyota, Honda or any other brand that everybody is always singing the praises of and they will have a similar maintenence/repair list if not even more stuff.

I'm a lucky one that has a Chevy and a Honda that both have cost me ZERO in repairs. I bought the Corvette new and the Honda I bought used 3 years ago. Before that I had a 2005 Corvette and 2006 Civic and the combined repair bill of both cars was less than $3000 and I had that Corvette 4 1/2 years and the Honda for ten years.
 
Burns a quart of oil in 1k miles since 80k miles and claims to be a good vehicle? My, untouched, 24 year old Toyota is cresting 300k miles and barely uses any oil during it's 5k OCI's. My, untouched, 19 year old Ranger just passed 100k miles and uses no oil in 5k OCI's. My, untouched, 33 year old F150 is approaching 300k miles and uses no oil in 5k OCI's. All have been very reliable vehicles
 
Burns a quart of oil in 1k miles since 80k miles and claims to be a good vehicle? My, untouched, 24 year old Toyota is cresting 300k miles and barely uses any oil during it's 5k OCI's. My, untouched, 19 year old Ranger just passed 100k miles and uses no oil in 5k OCI's. My, untouched, 33 year old F150 is approaching 300k miles and uses no oil in 5k OCI's. All have been very reliable vehicles
The newest vehicle on your list was made in 2005. Oil burning didn't become a big issue until the 2010s with the push for mpg that resulted in low tension rings in a lot of engines, not just GM. A quart or more every OCI is acceptable in pretty much every vehicle made since 2010. Some cars have it worse than others. My neighbor has another GM known for burning oil and his doesn't use a drop between 5K OCIs. It's a YMMV type of situation. And yes, despite burning a quart every 1k I would absolutely consider my car to be a good vehicle. It always gets me where I need to go, it's quiet, comfortable, good on gas, cheap to keep going and I probably won't sell it for a very long time.
 
These engines are notorious for clogged PCV systems, either from long term gunk buildup or ice buildup in cold weather. You can install a vented oil fill cap from a Saturn Vue, which will vent excessive crankcase pressure.

Even if the PCV has nothing to do with your consumption, oil vapour that is vented through the oil cap won't be able to poison the catalytic converter. It could also prevent blown engine seals, which is very common on these engines.
 
The newest vehicle on your list was made in 2005. Oil burning didn't become a big issue until the 2010s with the push for mpg that resulted in low tension rings in a lot of engines, not just GM. A quart or more every OCI is acceptable in pretty much every vehicle made since 2010. Some cars have it worse than others. My neighbor has another GM known for burning oil and his doesn't use a drop between 5K OCIs. It's a YMMV type of situation. And yes, despite burning a quart every 1k I would absolutely consider my car to be a good vehicle. It always gets me where I need to go, it's quiet, comfortable, good on gas, cheap to keep going and I probably won't sell it for a very long time.
My 1987 325 BMW had low tension piston rings (among other things for fuel economy) and didn't burn oil. It did require 5w-40 though.

I'm not buying your 2010+ oil burning theory...
 
dexos1/2 or a Euro oil has been proven to be friendly to cats - but Castrol has touted “phosphorus replacement technology” in GTX High Mileage, a syn blend. I was able to largely reduce oil consumption in an older Prius with a mix of BG EPR, VPBR, piston soaks, HPL engine cleaner and even their oil. I’m burning 2000-4000mi/quart now, paradoxically the worse consumption was with HPL and the best was with Shell Rotella 5W-30MV.
 
The newest vehicle on your list was made in 2005. Oil burning didn't become a big issue until the 2010s with the push for mpg that resulted in low tension rings in a lot of engines, not just GM. A quart or more every OCI is acceptable in pretty much every vehicle made since 2010.

Nonsense. Neither of my cars burn any significant amount of oil between changes, less than half a quart each and I go about 7k in the Corvette and 10k in the Civic for my OCIs. I bet if you took a survey on BITOG of oil consumption on 2010 or newer vehicles owned by people here you'd find very few of them would be burning a quart between changes.
 
What if your cat has its honeycomb coated with tarry oily soot? Then it won't matter that the zinc (or whatever) "poisoned" the cat, and you can pull a Scotty Kilmer and wash it out with laundry detergent.

IDK if you have flanges on both sides and if it's easy to remove, wash, and reinstall. Otherwise an o2 spacer will help with your light problem.
 
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