Have you ever opened up an engine or do you read stuff only?So how are you measuring this live experience? No failures?
Have you ever opened up an engine or do you read stuff only?So how are you measuring this live experience? No failures?
Same question to you: have you ever opened up an engine or do you read stuff only?“Not hurting” based on what?
Actual measurement of disassembled parts? Because that actual, empirical, determination of wear is the only real way to make that claim.
I’m not the one making a claim, so this line of discussion is simply an off topic distraction.Same question to you: have you ever opened up an engine or do you read stuff only?
What is "good oil"? My '06 Lincoln Town Car has 159K on the odometer, 125K put on by me. I changed O/F every 8K to 10K miles, avg 21.5 MPG, use ABSOLUTELY no oil between changes, and have used nothing but CAM-2 100% Synthetic as long as I have owned the car. Is that "good oil"~?None just use a good oil ...
I’ve overhauled several engines yes. But I’m asking what you use to make your evaluation.Have you ever opened up an engine or do you read stuff only?
What are you talking about? I shared my experience here using this additive in 2 engines at the moment for many years as i mentioned here. I named the additive (re-read please). I do not claim anything. If there is somebody having bad experiences here with the same additive, be my guest, please let me know.I’m not the one making a claim, so this line of discussion is simply an off topic distraction.
My credibility is not in question.
However, your claim about the performance of this mystery additive, containing chlorinated olefin, is.
The engine says so.....If you say so.
I have reviewed every one of your posts. You have not named the additive.What are you talking about? I shared my experience here using this additive in 2 engines at the moment for many years as i mentioned here. I named the additive (re-read please). I do not claim anything. If there is somebody having bad experiences here with the same additive, be my guest, please let me know.
I have been using Mobil 1 since 1975 and am very happy with it....Some of my cars went over 350000 ..one almost 400000 with no engine issues at all..O yes all with FRAM oil filters too....What is "good oil"? My '06 Lincoln Town Car has 159K on the odometer, 125K put on by me. I changed O/F every 8K to 10K miles, avg 21.5 MPG, use ABSOLUTELY no oil between changes, and have used nothing but CAM-2 100% Synthetic as long as I have owned the car. Is that "good oil"~?
Post in thread 'A Review of Engine Oil Additives' https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/a-review-of-engine-oil-additives.318101/post-6850715I have reviewed every one of your posts. You have not named the additive.
I don’t normally moderate technical inaccuracies, because I believe in people’s right to put their misunderstandings on display, which leads to discussion, and better understanding for all of the readers, but if you continue to make this personal, I will be forced to moderate this line of discussion. Please stay on topic.
Also - please avoid the use of profanity. That post has been deleted in accordance with our rules.
Back on the topic of additives -
Use of chlorinated olefin as an extreme pressure additive, for example, the one linked below, in sustained temperatures above 100F (not C, F) can lead to the release of the chlorine and subsequent corrosion. Your linked paper states that, this manufacture states that, @MolaKule said that.
Sorry, what does profanity mean? English isn't my native languageI have reviewed every one of your posts. You have not named the additive.
I don’t normally moderate technical inaccuracies, because I believe in people’s right to put their misunderstandings on display, which leads to discussion, and better understanding for all of the readers, but if you continue to make this personal, I will be forced to moderate this line of discussion. Please stay on topic.
Also - please avoid the use of profanity. That post has been deleted in accordance with our rules.
Back on the topic of additives -
Use of chlorinated olefin as an extreme pressure additive, for example, the one linked below, in sustained temperatures above 100F (not C, F) can lead to the release of the chlorine and subsequent corrosion. Your linked paper states that, this manufacture states that, @MolaKule said that.
I did not recognize that as a product name.Post in thread 'A Review of Engine Oil Additives' https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/a-review-of-engine-oil-additives.318101/post-6850715
As you can see i posted its name.
I know that about CP.....the down sides. I am not here to say you guys are wrong. I am only sharing my positive experiences with the additive i mentioned which i add to mineral oil 15w40
Good. Yes that's the one i am using for a very long time. I believe you what you said about the heat problems when it comes to CP and the acidic by products due to the combustion proces. I've never run my engines at that high temp you mentioned though. And as i said all i've seen is a clean engine after many years of using this additive. I started using it because i wanted a good engine oil back by the end of the 90's but i didn't want to use synthetic for my old engine.I did not recognize that as a product name.
So, this one?
TSL Olieversterker
Bestel hier uw kwart liter TSL olieversterker. TSL is een hoogwaardig smeermiddel waarmee fantastische resultaten worden gehaald.www.tsl-allstar.nl
Also, for the record, I took my first engine apart in 1975. Cylinder head gasket replacement, updated head installed. I have been turning wrenches ever since. I’m not new to engines. Nor am I new to science.
Synthetic oil is good for old engines. It helps to resist oxidation, coking and ring deposits as well as sludging. Why wouldn’t you use it?Good. Yes that's the one i am using for a very long time. I believe you what you said about the heat problem when it comes to CP and the acidic by products due to the combustion proces. I've never run my engines at that high temp you mentioned though. And as i said all i've seen is a clean engine after many years of using this additive. I started using it because i wanted a good engine oil back by the end of the 90's but i didn't want to use synthetic for my old engine.
Yes it is a good oil and there is wide variety of viscosity's today but back in the 90's here synthetics off the shelf were available as very thin oils only. When an engine is original and has never been apart for 54 years synthetics may cause drips over time because of their strong cleaning detergents. Also i do believe that back in 1969 when API SE/SF was the standard for mineral oil and with regular oil changes your good to go. Also the engine wasn't engineered for synthetic oil yet. The mineral oil i use is Valvoline 15w40 API SL with the 3% additive.Synthetic oil is good for oils engines. It helps to resist oxidation, coking and ring deposits as well as sludging. Why wouldn’t you use it?
Engineered for synthetic oil? How does that work? Was it engineered for the additive you’re using?Yes it is a good oil and there is wide variety of viscosity's today but back in the 90's here synthetics off the shelf here were available as very thin oils only. When an engine is original and has never been apart for 54 years synthetics may cause drips over time because of their strong cleaning detergents. Also i do believe that back in 1969 when API SE/SF was the standard for mineral oil and with regular oil changes your good to go. Also the engine wasn't engineered for synthetic oil yet.
What i meant was bearing clearances were mostly not as tight 54 years ago. Cleaning agents seem to be more "agressive" or doing a better job than 54 years ago. Sludged up seals on the inside of an engine actually seal pretty good.Engineered for synthetic oil? How does that work?
And detergents in oil don’t clean. Do you have any other other ideas on why it might start dripping?
I see. The bearing clearances are related to the base stock composition.What i meant was bearing clearances were mostly not as tight 54 years ago. Cleaning agents seem to be more "agressive" or doing a better job than 54 years ago. Sludged up seals on the inside of an engine actually seal pretty good.
I see. The bearing clearances are related to the base stock composition.
By the way, my apologize if my words read as rude. I would have preferred to be using my own language though i am trying my best in english.I’m not the one making a claim, so this line of discussion is simply an off topic distraction.
My credibility is not in question.
However, your claim about the performance of this mystery additive, containing chlorinated olefin, is.
I see you're confused by the three temperature zones in an ICE....Yes that's the one i am using for a very long time. I believe you what you said about the heat problems when it comes to CP and the acidic by products due to the combustion proces. I've never run my engines at that high temp you mentioned though.