Divert all power to the starters, Scotty!

[dogememe]

Originally Posted by Garak
Originally Posted by HorseThief
It's normal behavior for how the ignition is wired. My 09 Grand Marquis does this as well. To be fair to Ford, the factory radio was an am/fm/cd/cassette unit with hardly any startup lag and Bluetooth pairing wasn't a consideration.

I was going to ascribe it to hacked up wiring like dogememe mentioned. The older Town cars and CVs with which I had experience certainly did not have this issue. Also, one also never knows how good the stereo install is. I've seen some very poor behaviour on even older cars, some GMs I've seen, that certainly should not have been there. If a stereo gets reset (particularly the clock and audio settings), I'm not going to be satisfied.

As for CVs, I've seen some real messes where the post garage had done DRL disables that didn't work all that well, and that's excluding what was done for getting a light bar, radio, and siren to work.


It doesn't get reset, all my settings are there... It just gets rebooted, so I have to wait for Bluetooth to pair up again which is a good 10-30 seconds sometimes.

As for the DRLs it's a setting I can change using my scantool and laptop, I just left them off because I hate them. I did disable dark mode though so my interior lights come on when I open the door.

 

[VeryNoisyPoet]

Originally Posted by ragtoplvr
Originally Posted by VeryNoisyPoet
Originally Posted by ragtoplvr
company A may put a lower geared 1.2 KW starter, company B may use a 1.8KW for the same displacement engine.

If you can tell me the years of the vehicles I can see if i can find the KW of the starter listed.

Rod


1998 Volvo V70 GLT 1.4KW 9 or 10T pinion
2014 Subaru XV Crosstrek 1.2KW 8 teeth pinion

Would be cool if you could hunt down the specs.


Here ya go
My motorcycle, a 1.2L 2 cylinder BMW with 12 to one compression is another that seems to crank slowly, BUT it always starts right up in any weather I would ride in. (15F) with 20W50. The starter is a Bosch listed at .9 KW. Mt older beemer has a Valeo listed at 1.2KW and it always seemed to crank faster. The fewer cylinders the harder the engine is to crank all other things being equal.

Both always start which is what matters .

Rod


Awesome! Thanks!
Def suspected the Volvo had a beefier starter. Only difference between 0F and 80F ambient temps is an extra compression stroke (ruh-ruh-ruh-ruh-ruh-vroom VS ruh-ruh-ruh-ruh-vroom), perhaps 1 second total cranking time in both cases. Manual states up to 10 seconds continuous cranking is "normal". When testing an oil pressure sensor, I cranked for 10 seconds with no noticeable drop off in cranking speed for the duration, and starter casing barely warmed by 15F over ambient after that run (windings much hotter but obviously safe if meant for that kind of abuse in normal conditions).

The Subaru takes much longer to crank when cold and often needs another 2 or 3 compression strokes before it catches. First winter it was startling enough that I did some voltage drop tests and my dad had the dealer load test the battery next time he brought it for service. Everything checked out fine so we decided to deal and keep an eye on it.

Now the missing info that I'm not sure is as accessible is the number of teeth on the flywheels for the total gear reduction between starter and engine. The Volvo's bellhousing looks a little bigger than the Subaru one but can't tell much more than that. No traditional inspection cover so can't easily expose flywheel, crank engine over with a breaker bar, and count the teeth

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted by dogememe
It doesn't get reset, all my settings are there... It just gets rebooted, so I have to wait for Bluetooth to pair up again which is a good 10-30 seconds sometimes.

Okay, that's not quite as bad as I thought, phew.

But, yes, resetting the Bluetooth can't be fun. As for the DRL business, and using a scan tool, kudos, you're a decade ahead of the people who worked on them professionally and butchered the wiring to high heaven.