When it comes to the point of having to run a straight 60, I classify that as being a shearaphobic, I'd be much more concerned about start up oil flow, or bypassing unfilter oil. A 10w50, 20w50. 20w60, but not no straight 60 weight.
'13 KTM DUKE 690 MAXIMA 10W/60 1,002 MILES + VPC12
- Thread starter albertdi
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i've tested sae60
i've seen honey pour faster
you need an ambient of 80-85f for "cold" startup with sae60
maybe just maybe 75f for a chilly morning
you actually hope for it to be chewed down a little to the upper 50wt range
if you cannot hit those startup ambient temps...DO NOT USE!
a really good winter oil like VR1 20w50 would be a smarter choice
or a ratio of such like 2L vr1 20w50 1L sae60
steve
i've seen honey pour faster
you need an ambient of 80-85f for "cold" startup with sae60
maybe just maybe 75f for a chilly morning
you actually hope for it to be chewed down a little to the upper 50wt range
if you cannot hit those startup ambient temps...DO NOT USE!
a really good winter oil like VR1 20w50 would be a smarter choice
or a ratio of such like 2L vr1 20w50 1L sae60
steve
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Not all SAE 60 is made the same. I've been feeding one of my trucks a steady diet of VR1 SAE 60 conventional for 47k miles. We've started it as low as 51F.
A synthetic 60 is going to flow a lot better than a conventional 60.
I'd love to use something like VR1 20/50, but Valvoline is practically screaming never to use with a wet clutch. I'm thinking there has to be a reason why.
A synthetic 60 is going to flow a lot better than a conventional 60.
I'd love to use something like VR1 20/50, but Valvoline is practically screaming never to use with a wet clutch. I'm thinking there has to be a reason why.
i tested castrol motorcycle specific sae60
i tested vr1 20w50 several times.
very very good stuff (or at least used to be)
i tested vr1 20w50 several times.
very very good stuff (or at least used to be)
For now, I've filled with Valvoline MC 20w-50. I'll have my own thread on how that does for me.
can't wait!
I ran the 20W50 Valvoline MC dino oil for 2,000 miles in my ZRX1200 last summer/fall. Very good shifting qualities and should be a good choice. I did not get a sample analyzed, put new high comp pistons in over Christmas/New years and ran the oil for a few minutes when I started it up to be sure there were no leaks. To start break-in riding, I drained the 20w50 and went to an ND30 wt for the first 3 rides to seat the rings (90 miles total) and am running the Valvoline 10w40 MC dino oil now for the past 1100 miles. I will send in a sample of the 10w40 and post up once I change the oil in the next week or two.
Mine came to me with a new jug/piston. I hope the MC 20/50 is good enough for break in. No friction modifiers and high zinc should be a good thing I assume?
I thought about use T1 SAE 30 (My usual go-to brrak-in oil), but a 30 is nowhere near the recommended weight, so I figured a high zinc conventional like MC 20/50 would be great.
I'm dumping the break in oil and tossing in an oil cooler at the same time, and refilling with the MC 20/50.
I thought about use T1 SAE 30 (My usual go-to brrak-in oil), but a 30 is nowhere near the recommended weight, so I figured a high zinc conventional like MC 20/50 would be great.
I'm dumping the break in oil and tossing in an oil cooler at the same time, and refilling with the MC 20/50.
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Mine came to me with a new jug/piston. I hope the MC 20/50 is good enough for break in. No friction modifiers and high zinc should be a good thing I assume?
I thought about use T1 SAE 30 (My usual go-to brrak-in oil), but a 30 is nowhere near the recommended weight, so I figured a high zinc conventional like MC 20/50 would be great.
I'm dumping the break in oil and tossing in an oil cooler at the same time, and refilling with the MC 20/50.
link to your oil cooler please...
Mine came to me with a new jug/piston. I hope the MC 20/50 is good enough for break in. No friction modifiers and high zinc should be a good thing I assume?
I thought about use T1 SAE 30 (My usual go-to brrak-in oil), but a 30 is nowhere near the recommended weight, so I figured a high zinc conventional like MC 20/50 would be great.
I'm dumping the break in oil and tossing in an oil cooler at the same time, and refilling with the MC 20/50.
link to your oil cooler please...
It's from an Aprilia RSVR. Since my Duke has the dirtbike style left-and-right radiators, this is actually a 100% perfect fit for my bike. I mocked them up in front of my radiators. Looks like they were factory built to go there.
I've been waiting for my new oversized radiators and Devol radiator guards to come in before installed the oil coolers. Radiators came today. Guards will be in before the week is out. I'll be doing the radiators, guards, oil coolers, and adding a shrouded fan to the right radiator.
Factory was a single unshrouded fan on the left radiator. Idling for 5 minutes resulted in boiling over. Switching that fan out for the shrouded fan from a KTM 450 EXC keeps temps at 200F. Adding the second fan on the right radiator should allow for full thermal regulation at fan switch temp in Florida heat. Going to install a manual handlebar switch for the fans at the same time.
This sample reflects one weekend worth of riding. VP was not used during this trip as I do not bring any with me for extended trips. Here's my latest report:
And a link to all the data so far:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1pwqbOCfafYeHwalhctrVMPdlDbIH45oc236MucfM8IE/edit#gid=0
And a link to all the data so far:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1pwqbOCfafYeHwalhctrVMPdlDbIH45oc236MucfM8IE/edit#gid=0
some things on my mind that I'd appreciate feedback on:
a) should I keep using the lead? I've almost made my way through my first 5gallons.
b) any other oils (brands, viscosities, blends) to try?
c) if I stick with my valvoline 1000 mile drain and re-fill protocol.... what's a good check-in interval for monitoring engine wear with oil analysis in miles?
a) should I keep using the lead? I've almost made my way through my first 5gallons.
b) any other oils (brands, viscosities, blends) to try?
c) if I stick with my valvoline 1000 mile drain and re-fill protocol.... what's a good check-in interval for monitoring engine wear with oil analysis in miles?
Your motor seems to like shedding metal, it should be running the lowest levels of its life by this time. Is this a stock mapped bike? It may be running super hot, which is typical with ktm stock mapping.
I'd still expect the wear metals to be about half of what they are.
one interesting note, your flash point stayed great at 420 degree, yet you viscosity fell considerably. Means bike its hard on the oil.
I'd still expect the wear metals to be about half of what they are.
one interesting note, your flash point stayed great at 420 degree, yet you viscosity fell considerably. Means bike its hard on the oil.
Originally Posted By: Mackelroy
Your motor seems to like shedding metal, it should be running the lowest levels of its life by this time. Is this a stock mapped bike? It may be running super hot, which is typical with ktm stock mapping.
I'd still expect the wear metals to be about half of what they are.
one interesting note, your flash point stayed great at 420 degree, yet you viscosity fell considerably. Means bike its hard on the oil.
The bike has a race cam and the matching ktm map. I might try a power commander down the line and see if that smooths things out. The bike can be a bit touchy.
Your motor seems to like shedding metal, it should be running the lowest levels of its life by this time. Is this a stock mapped bike? It may be running super hot, which is typical with ktm stock mapping.
I'd still expect the wear metals to be about half of what they are.
one interesting note, your flash point stayed great at 420 degree, yet you viscosity fell considerably. Means bike its hard on the oil.
The bike has a race cam and the matching ktm map. I might try a power commander down the line and see if that smooths things out. The bike can be a bit touchy.
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