M1 0W40 User Question
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I run it in a 04 Caddy 3.6 V6 (75000 mi) and 99 GMC pickup 4.3 V6 (150000 mi).
Only difference I've noticed is on the 4.3 the rear main seal leaks less.
And that's definitely an unscientific observation.
With Meijer pricing and Mobil rebates, this stuff is hard to beat.
Only difference I've noticed is on the 4.3 the rear main seal leaks less.
And that's definitely an unscientific observation.
With Meijer pricing and Mobil rebates, this stuff is hard to beat.
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies
Higher HTHS results in lower MPG, period, for these HTHS=3.0 5w30 engines getting HTHS=3.5 0w40, losing power and fuel economy due to higher viscous friction. Depends on your experiment style, as in how well independent variables are controlled. Its almost impossible to see the 1%-2% diff in MPG unless you do a true lab test.
This exactly. Look at what I run in my G37. I cannot tell the difference in fuel economy, simply because there are too many other variables. It's certainly there, if you could test for it carefully enough. An ordinary person outside a lab simply cannot do it.
Agree with ^^^^ however, I am taking the computer's word for the 1 MPG decrease measured over several years--driving mostly the same roads thru 4 seasons.
Hot idle OP increased from from about 24 to about 40
Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies
Higher HTHS results in lower MPG, period, for these HTHS=3.0 5w30 engines getting HTHS=3.5 0w40, losing power and fuel economy due to higher viscous friction. Depends on your experiment style, as in how well independent variables are controlled. Its almost impossible to see the 1%-2% diff in MPG unless you do a true lab test.
This exactly. Look at what I run in my G37. I cannot tell the difference in fuel economy, simply because there are too many other variables. It's certainly there, if you could test for it carefully enough. An ordinary person outside a lab simply cannot do it.
Agree with ^^^^ however, I am taking the computer's word for the 1 MPG decrease measured over several years--driving mostly the same roads thru 4 seasons.
Hot idle OP increased from from about 24 to about 40
Maybe, but even that 1 mpg can be within the margin of error. You may be right, but you may not be able to back it up mathematically. Myself, there are way too many wind swings and temperature variations alone to calculate a good result, and that's discounting the crudeness of the measuring instruments we have at our disposal.
I mentioned in a thread ages ago, how my G37 fuel economy actually improved with 5w-40 over PYB 5w-30, depending upon the times of year one's comparing. When spring comes and my right foot gets a little heavier, that's going to do a lot more damage to fuel economy than any oil choice.
I mentioned in a thread ages ago, how my G37 fuel economy actually improved with 5w-40 over PYB 5w-30, depending upon the times of year one's comparing. When spring comes and my right foot gets a little heavier, that's going to do a lot more damage to fuel economy than any oil choice.
I'm running 0w40 Amsoil Euro in my whole fleet that specs 5w30.
No noticeable difference in MPG.
No noticeable difference in MPG.
Read where Hyundai / Kia specify 5W40 in Europe so what this tells me is that the Hyundai / Kia engine an handle a lower viscosity 40 weight (such as M1 0W40) . I believe the 0W is not a concern vs. 5W , it's knowing whether your engine can be rated for 40 weight ?
On my Gen Coupe 2L turbo it specifies 5w20 on the oil cap and OM for the first year of production. They threw that out after the second year and widened the range to 5w20-5w40 depending on ambient temps.
I've used the 0w40 M1 before and after a couple years of the 0w30 M1 flavors I went back to the 0w40.
I've used the 0w40 M1 before and after a couple years of the 0w30 M1 flavors I went back to the 0w40.
Interesting - so appears that realistically world wide the newer Hyundai / Kia engines could handle a range of 5W20 to 5W40 . It also appears Hyundai / Kia stay away from the 0W = synthetic oil recommendation by staying with 5Wxx. If in Saudi Arabia in the summer , pulling a trailer in the mountains then 5W40 (or long drain applications with fuel dilution concerns) otherwise 5W20 / 5W30 for more typical applications (i.e. under 105F. ambient temp, 4K to 5K mile average OCI's) .
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
On my Gen Coupe 2L turbo it specifies 5w20 on the oil cap and OM for the first year of production. They threw that out after the second year and widened the range to 5w20-5w40 depending on ambient temps.
I've used the 0w40 M1 before and after a couple years of the 0w30 M1 flavors I went back to the 0w40.
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
On my Gen Coupe 2L turbo it specifies 5w20 on the oil cap and OM for the first year of production. They threw that out after the second year and widened the range to 5w20-5w40 depending on ambient temps.
I've used the 0w40 M1 before and after a couple years of the 0w30 M1 flavors I went back to the 0w40.
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Even though this oil gets mentioned allot here - today was the 1st time checking it on website ... VI of 186 ?
I've been using 0w40 in an FJ80 Land Cruiser (LX450) for over 10 years with good results, so I can't really compare it to the 5w30 which it calls for.
Everywhere else on the planet this engine is spec'd for a much thicker oil up to 20w50.
But the USA cars say 5w30.
I wonder why...
Everywhere else on the planet this engine is spec'd for a much thicker oil up to 20w50.
But the USA cars say 5w30.
I wonder why...
Thoughts on using M1 0w-40 in a 1999 Toyota 1MZ-FE. The car has 280k on it and I have been seeing some flakes in the oil change pan. This has been going on the last 3 - 4 oil changes. It has M1 5w-30 in it now and 5w-30 Valvoline Full Synthetic prior to that.
I believe it is cam bearing material. I will be changing the oil this weekend and plan to take pictures of the flakes. It does not burn or consume any oil between changes.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
I believe it is cam bearing material. I will be changing the oil this weekend and plan to take pictures of the flakes. It does not burn or consume any oil between changes.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
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Originally Posted By: Big Smoke
Thoughts on using M1 0w-40 in a 1999 Toyota 1MZ-FE. The car has 280k on it and I have been seeing some flakes in the oil change pan. This has been going on the last 3 - 4 oil changes. It has M1 5w-30 in it now and 5w-30 Valvoline Full Synthetic prior to that.
I believe it is cam bearing material. I will be changing the oil this weekend and plan to take pictures of the flakes. It does not burn or consume any oil between changes.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
Overhead cams generally ride on the head(aluminum)and the cam caps are aluminum as well.
Thoughts on using M1 0w-40 in a 1999 Toyota 1MZ-FE. The car has 280k on it and I have been seeing some flakes in the oil change pan. This has been going on the last 3 - 4 oil changes. It has M1 5w-30 in it now and 5w-30 Valvoline Full Synthetic prior to that.
I believe it is cam bearing material. I will be changing the oil this weekend and plan to take pictures of the flakes. It does not burn or consume any oil between changes.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
Overhead cams generally ride on the head(aluminum)and the cam caps are aluminum as well.
Originally Posted By: tig1
Overhead cams generally ride on the head(aluminum)and the cam caps are aluminum as well.
Correct, the 1MZ-FE does not have cam bearings other than the aluminum head and cap.
And if metal is flaking off somewhere I don't think the oil will do much to correct it.
Overhead cams generally ride on the head(aluminum)and the cam caps are aluminum as well.
Correct, the 1MZ-FE does not have cam bearings other than the aluminum head and cap.
And if metal is flaking off somewhere I don't think the oil will do much to correct it.
Thanks for the reply. There aren't any bearings between the head and cam caps? What I am seeing is goldish in color. Not rounded like bearing material, just small particles. I would think if it was a main bearing it would have been creating a problem by now. Any thoughts on what else it maybe?
Engine is sludge free, normal PVC changes, oil changes, etc...
Engine is sludge free, normal PVC changes, oil changes, etc...
Thanks. At this point just looking to slow down whatever is happening. The body is in great shape but at this mileage I'm done sinking $ into it.
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