Oxidized paint on hood

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AZjeff

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I recently noticed the paint on the hood of my 2007 GMC has discolorization, from a side angle with certain lighting you can see uneven haziness with some spotting that looks like when oil is on water. I've been using clay bar and Collinite 845 for a few years but it's not enough obviously. The truck spends some time inside but mostly it's outside. I rubbed a small corner with some plastic polish and it seemed to remove the hazing but I don't know how it would be on the entire hood. What should I use to remove the haze and keep it off? The roof is probably the same but one thing at a time. I'm not comfortable with a buffer.

The paint isn't dull, I clayed and waxed the hood and the defects are still there.

thanks
 
GM has pretty bad paint. What color is it? The first 2 pictures I have here are of my step-mom's 2010 Pontiac G6. Paint all of a sudden faded really bad when it was 3-1/2 years old. Wax didn't help at all. The only picture I have is of after she wrecked it August 2015, then 2 weeks later when my dad fixed it at the body shop he works at. He had the roof sprayed too. The 3rd picture is of a family member's 2005 Chevy Tahoe. It clears up with wax a bit.

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Originally Posted By: ted s
uv damage


You can try aggressively buffing it with M105/M205 to bring some life back, but if it is clear coat damage, there's not much else short of repainting it.
 
To quote Bones "It's dead Jim". My experience with GM paint is that when you start seeing pronounced cloudiness, the paint is damaged and just a season or so from starting to peel if it is base coat clear coat.

I have a Toyota that was repaired from a hit and the hood did this last year, now it is peeling. They used cheap paint I am guessing.
 
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
But i thought bb/cc paint is so wonderful and durable.

From a maintenance perspective, bb/cc is wonderful compared to single stage. I can't count the number of times I have gotten phone calls from people with white trucks wondering why they look like chalk ; ) Single stage paint.
 
It's probably plain ol oxidation. A 10 yr old truck outdoors 90% of its life in Arizona..... yeah, the paint's going to fade.

Some polish or compound will bring it back to life. What do you have besides Collinite and plastic polish? Got any friends with some car wax inventory? Maybe you can try a few products to see what works best.

If you want to pick up something from the store, Meguiars Ultimate Polish or Ultimate Compound can be found at Walmart and auto parts places for under $10/bottle.
 
Ugh, I feel your pain...my '06 Kia Sportage is the ugliest color EVER, light greenish gold, and the clear is finally dying on the hood. I lost a hunk of clear about the size of 2 quarters, that grew from a stone chip...the rest of the hood can't be far behind. A local body shop wanted $400 to DA it down and panel paint it, $600 if he had to blend the fender tops. Even my guy that does used car work in his garage wants $200.
 
A bit late to the dance here, but the Kitacam's hood got painted about 18 months ago and is holding up well...I no longer do the weekly 2-lane country highway treks that caused the damage though...

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3950938/Re:_11-yr_old_Camry_hood_gets_#Post3950938

scroll to top for before/after pix
 
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If you're not comfortable with a buffer, look into one of the random orbital variety. I've got a Porter Cable that I've used on multiple vehicles and boats. You can get kits with a buffer and nice assortment of pads from Chemical Guys or Autogeek.
 
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
But i thought bb/cc paint is so wonderful and durable.



You have good and cheap paint just like anything else. OE paint is very thin and cost effective on most cars. Red is a particularly nasty color for oxidizing with any type of paint, the pigment dies under the clear and the clear looses its grip, it just takes longer to oxidize than non clear coat.

I was taught years ago you don't clear black or bright red cars like a guards red. Lacquer or enamels only. They seem to have it beat on black but reds and to a lesser extent some yellows remain a problem for longevity and much more difficult to repair when it does peel.
White, blue, green, dark reds, silvers, bronze and so on are better done with base/clear.
 
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