What's new in spark plugs(2012)

[jorton]

In this topic, after all the reasons how it's ok to change brands, materials, style, how much weight do you place on this statement?

Many professional technicians prefer to install the same brand of spark plugs that were originally in the engine, and may be reluctant to try a different brand. But if there is a valid reason for switching brands, they may do so.
Counterman

Personally I feel a plug labeled "exact fit" should also be labeled "Do Not Gap, Gap is Preset". When a supplier lists a plug for my application I shouldn't have to reset the gap.

 

[RooflessVW]

I buy my plugs from the dealer. I don't have time to deal with gapping/not gapping, difference in materials, will these work, will I have misfires, etc.

The thought process is that if it ran well on the old plugs, it will run well on the same plugs new. Why risk poor idle or a misfire changing plugs.

KISS, and don't try to fix what isn't broken.

 

[SHOZ]

Always check the gap. I do believe in staying with what came in it unless you need to change the heat range.

But that being said I switched from the standard plugs on the Accent to Iridium.

 

[Kruse]

Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
I don't have time to deal with gapping/not gapping,


While I'm sure there is a small percentage of them out there....somewhere....I have yet to see a delivery guy who takes care and pride in his work. Just yesterday I saw a 3-ton air conditioner compressor that a fork lift driver carelessly mangled by squeezing it between the fork lift rack and the front wall of a semi trailer. I also have a buddy who put himself through school working at a UPS sorting facility. The stories he told me are quite humorous.
Anyway, just giving a box of spark plugs a toss or a drop can change the gap. If the gap is non-adjustable or if the manufacturer recommends that you shouldn't check the gap, okay, I see your point. But if the gap is meant to be adjustable, I always check the gap. It's amazing how many are way out of spec.

 

[BrocLuno]

It's not the gap that is the big no-no. It's often the whole resistance to charge build-up that is crucial. My Saab uses the ionization potential across the gap BEFORE firing to determine the potential for knock or ping (as one factor). It does not wait for the engine to knock before adjusting timing. So you change brands and internal resistor design and the engine won't run the same.

Saying that, the Saab came with two different plugs, same motor, different years. But the ignition cassette is the same for both years. One was std NGK resistor plug, the other was fine wire iridium plug. I moved up to the iridium plug, even though that was not stock for my year. Runs better

So do your research. A bunch of Saab's have gone from needing a tune-up to running badly just by switching from NGK to Champion. Not the result they were trying for

It's application and ignition design dependent ...

On a less sophisticated ignition, yeah sure change away as part of optimization. We have been playing the spark plug game in race motors for a 100 years. Can make a huge difference. Sometimes it makes no difference at all ...

 

[BigD1]

Check the gap because that same plug can fit many engines, and the gap is set to the most common.


"DO I NEED TO SET THE GAP WHEN INSTALLING A NEW SET OF PLUGS?
A: Maybe. A spark plug part number might fit hundreds of different engines from many different manufacturers. Although the NGK factory will set the gap to a preselected setting, this may not be the right gap for your particular engine. The incorrect plug gap for your engine can contribute to a high rate of misfires, loss of power, plug fouling, poor fuel economy and accelerated plug wear. It is always best to check the gap against the manufacturer's specifications. If adjusting the gap on fine wire or precious metal plugs such as platinum or iridium, be very careful not to apply any pressure or prying force to the fine wire center electrode or insulator as they can be damaged. The gap should be adjusted by only moving the ground electrode.

Another consideration that should be taken into account is the extent of any modifications that you may have made to the engine. As an example, when you raise compression or add forced induction (a turbo system, nitrous or supercharger kit) you must reduce the gap (about .004" for every 50 hp you add). However, when you add a high power ignition system (such as those offered by MSD, Crane, Nology) you can open the gap from .002-.005"."

Source: https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/...ew-set-of-plugs

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: jorton
In this topic, after all the reasons how it's ok to change brands, materials, style, how much weight do you place on this statement?

Many professional technicians prefer to install the same brand of spark plugs that were originally in the engine, and may be reluctant to try a different brand. But if there is a valid reason for switching brands, they may do so.
Counterman

Personally I feel a plug labeled "exact fit" should also be labeled "Do Not Gap, Gap is Preset". When a supplier lists a plug for my application I shouldn't have to reset the gap.

The NGK BP6ES fits everything from older SAABS to Honda mowers and BMW motorbikes. Gaps, however differ.

 

[RooflessVW]

Originally Posted By: Kruse
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
I don't have time to deal with gapping/not gapping,


While I'm sure there is a small percentage of them out there....somewhere....I have yet to see a delivery guy who takes care and pride in his work. Just yesterday I saw a 3-ton air conditioner compressor that a fork lift driver carelessly mangled by squeezing it between the fork lift rack and the front wall of a semi trailer. I also have a buddy who put himself through school working at a UPS sorting facility. The stories he told me are quite humorous.
Anyway, just giving a box of spark plugs a toss or a drop can change the gap. If the gap is non-adjustable or if the manufacturer recommends that you shouldn't check the gap, okay, I see your point. But if the gap is meant to be adjustable, I always check the gap. It's amazing how many are way out of spec.




Of course I verify the gap before install with a feeler gauge, but if the package is damaged: it isn't going home with me.