Originally Posted By: dkryan
Not that I've seen.
Then it's not a real leak; it's just a seep.
Not that I've seen.
Then it's not a real leak; it's just a seep.
Rear Main Seal Leak
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Originally Posted By: GiveMeAVowel
Originally Posted By: dkryan
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Originally Posted By: CT8
Have you checked the PCV system?
+1
Someone on a Toyota forum claimed he had the same problem, changed the valve and hose, and the leak stopped. Then it re-started two months later.
I will change the PCV and hose in the near future and switch to MaxLife full synthetic after I run the current fill. I don't want to waste five new quarts of old school Ultra.
Thanks again for the replies.
Depending on the cost it sounds like changing the PVC is no
guarantee that it will solve the problem.
Also I would NOT switch to full synthetic oil, why risk it? Those oils with more cleaning additives may actually increase the leak by cleaning gunk off the seal.
It's about $25 for the OEM valve and hose. It's getting to the darn thing that is the real pain.
And this ride has been on a steady diet of full synthetic oil since the odometer hit 1,000 miles.
Originally Posted By: dkryan
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Originally Posted By: CT8
Have you checked the PCV system?
+1
Someone on a Toyota forum claimed he had the same problem, changed the valve and hose, and the leak stopped. Then it re-started two months later.
I will change the PCV and hose in the near future and switch to MaxLife full synthetic after I run the current fill. I don't want to waste five new quarts of old school Ultra.
Thanks again for the replies.
Depending on the cost it sounds like changing the PVC is no
guarantee that it will solve the problem.
Also I would NOT switch to full synthetic oil, why risk it? Those oils with more cleaning additives may actually increase the leak by cleaning gunk off the seal.
It's about $25 for the OEM valve and hose. It's getting to the darn thing that is the real pain.
And this ride has been on a steady diet of full synthetic oil since the odometer hit 1,000 miles.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: dkryan
Not that I've seen.
Then it's not a real leak; it's just a seep.
I'm really beginning to believe that.
The mechanic said it was a "high pressure seal" and that it would leak while I was driving, not while the engine was off.
That made no sense to me. What? Turning the key turns the leak on or off?
If the seal is, in fact, bad, it will leak. Period.
My wife drove the SUV about 30 miles today, then shut it off. We left in my Altima and when we returned three hours later, there was no oil (not even one drop) on the garage floor.
And though it only has 300 miles on the odometer since the oil change, the oil level is full.
The only way to know for sure is to get it up on a lift and look at it myself.
Originally Posted By: dkryan
Not that I've seen.
Then it's not a real leak; it's just a seep.
I'm really beginning to believe that.
The mechanic said it was a "high pressure seal" and that it would leak while I was driving, not while the engine was off.
That made no sense to me. What? Turning the key turns the leak on or off?
If the seal is, in fact, bad, it will leak. Period.
My wife drove the SUV about 30 miles today, then shut it off. We left in my Altima and when we returned three hours later, there was no oil (not even one drop) on the garage floor.
And though it only has 300 miles on the odometer since the oil change, the oil level is full.
The only way to know for sure is to get it up on a lift and look at it myself.
If you have been running full synthetic all this time don't mess around with high mileage oils and snake oil at this point.
Keep in mind when you swell one seal you swell all of them, not a good thing, your asking for trouble in a car you intend to keep.
A little weepage is nothing to worry about, if your not topping off with any significant amount of oil over the course of an OCI i wouldn't even think twice about it.
Toyota uses good seal materials and these snake oils can be detrimental to some of the silicone based ones found elsewhere in the engine, it doesn't swell them it eats them.
IMO keep on doing exactly what you have been doing and don't change a thing, just keep an eye on things.
Keep in mind when you swell one seal you swell all of them, not a good thing, your asking for trouble in a car you intend to keep.
A little weepage is nothing to worry about, if your not topping off with any significant amount of oil over the course of an OCI i wouldn't even think twice about it.
Toyota uses good seal materials and these snake oils can be detrimental to some of the silicone based ones found elsewhere in the engine, it doesn't swell them it eats them.
IMO keep on doing exactly what you have been doing and don't change a thing, just keep an eye on things.
Originally Posted By: dkryan
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: dkryan
Not that I've seen.
Then it's not a real leak; it's just a seep.
I'm really beginning to believe that.
The mechanic said it was a "high pressure seal" and that it would leak while I was driving, not while the engine was off.
That made no sense to me. What? Turning the key turns the leak on or off?
If the seal is, in fact, bad, it will leak. Period.
My wife drove the SUV about 30 miles today, then shut it off. We left in my Altima and when we returned three hours later, there was no oil (not even one drop) on the garage floor.
And though it only has 300 miles on the odometer since the oil change, the oil level is full.
The only way to know for sure is to get it up on a lift and look at it myself.
Yeah it makes sense. The oil pump isn't pumping oil to the mains when the engine isn't running. And when the engine isn't running, the oil is in the pan, not up by the rear main seal. That's why rear main seal leaks ONLY leak when the engine is running.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: dkryan
Not that I've seen.
Then it's not a real leak; it's just a seep.
I'm really beginning to believe that.
The mechanic said it was a "high pressure seal" and that it would leak while I was driving, not while the engine was off.
That made no sense to me. What? Turning the key turns the leak on or off?
If the seal is, in fact, bad, it will leak. Period.
My wife drove the SUV about 30 miles today, then shut it off. We left in my Altima and when we returned three hours later, there was no oil (not even one drop) on the garage floor.
And though it only has 300 miles on the odometer since the oil change, the oil level is full.
The only way to know for sure is to get it up on a lift and look at it myself.
Yeah it makes sense. The oil pump isn't pumping oil to the mains when the engine isn't running. And when the engine isn't running, the oil is in the pan, not up by the rear main seal. That's why rear main seal leaks ONLY leak when the engine is running.
If it's just seeping and leaves a drop or two on the pavement at night, I'd just try some high mileage oil and see what happens.
I always thought high mileage oil was a scam. That is, until I put it in my Jeep 4.0 and it stopped the pan gasket leak and RMS weep.
It was to the point that it would start smoking now and then. Seems to have slowed down a lot.
I always thought high mileage oil was a scam. That is, until I put it in my Jeep 4.0 and it stopped the pan gasket leak and RMS weep.
It was to the point that it would start smoking now and then. Seems to have slowed down a lot.
I used Auto-RX to fix two full blown leaks. One was a CRV and one was my Escape. Each were leaving a drop or two of oil in their garage parking spots.
I know it isn't a popular recommendation but it worked as advertised for me. I used 1 bottle for each.
I know it isn't a popular recommendation but it worked as advertised for me. I used 1 bottle for each.
UPDATE -
5,000 miles later on "Pennzoil old school 5w-30 Ultra" and the oil level has not budged on the dipstick.
I hope I did not jinx myself with this post.
I'll report back next April at the 10k OCI interval.
The $1,700 the dealer wanted for the new rear main seal is still in my pocket.
Uh, actually, it's in my wife's purse.
5,000 miles later on "Pennzoil old school 5w-30 Ultra" and the oil level has not budged on the dipstick.
I hope I did not jinx myself with this post.
I'll report back next April at the 10k OCI interval.
The $1,700 the dealer wanted for the new rear main seal is still in my pocket.
Uh, actually, it's in my wife's purse.
No snake oils or seal swellers either, just the PU? Di you swap the PCV?
The reason some product work on something like an AMC 258 family engine (Jeep 4.0) is the seal materials and gaskets are old school
The reason some product work on something like an AMC 258 family engine (Jeep 4.0) is the seal materials and gaskets are old school
Originally Posted By: Trav
No snake oils or seal swellers either, just the PU? Di you swap the PCV?
The reason some product work on something like an AMC 258 family engine (Jeep 4.0) is the seal materials and gaskets are old school
Nothing but Pennzoil Ultra 5w-30. No high mileage oil or anything else.
No, I have yet to change that wonderfully engineered PCV and hose.
Believe me, I'm quite happy it's not the "leak" the mechanic claimed it was, at least thus far.
No snake oils or seal swellers either, just the PU? Di you swap the PCV?
The reason some product work on something like an AMC 258 family engine (Jeep 4.0) is the seal materials and gaskets are old school
Nothing but Pennzoil Ultra 5w-30. No high mileage oil or anything else.
No, I have yet to change that wonderfully engineered PCV and hose.
Believe me, I'm quite happy it's not the "leak" the mechanic claimed it was, at least thus far.
My Rav4 has leaks front and rear. Need to top off about 1 qt every 5000 miles. Never see a drop on the ground. There is wet oil seeping out of the timing chain cover and seeping out of the bell housing where the tranny meets the engine. Switching to HM oil helped a little. This seeping started about 50k miles ago and has very gradually gotten worse. So far, it's not a terminal problem. I'm hopeful, your Highlander will go another 100k+ miles before you need to worry about fixing it.
Originally Posted By: dkryan
Estimates for a new seal run $1,500 to $1,800.
RockAuto has your new rear main seal for $14.29
Estimates for a new seal run $1,500 to $1,800.
RockAuto has your new rear main seal for $14.29
How bad is it leaking ? Does it actually form a drip and drip on the garage floor ?
I just picked up a couple of jugs of MaxLife (had a $10 coupon for both) to try and stop a 1-2 drop a day drip...
1st I'll check for any non-seal leak, and then try Bar's sealer for the last few hundred miles of the current OCI before the next OC...
I'll try that a couple times before considering spending hundred$ when the Camry's losing so little...I put a rubber carpet mat on the driveway to collect the 1" spread and keep the driveway clean.
1st I'll check for any non-seal leak, and then try Bar's sealer for the last few hundred miles of the current OCI before the next OC...
I'll try that a couple times before considering spending hundred$ when the Camry's losing so little...I put a rubber carpet mat on the driveway to collect the 1" spread and keep the driveway clean.
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I wonder how many mis-diagnosed rear main seal leaks get "fixed" unnecessarily.
I leaned this myself the (not expensive way) last month when I replaced what I was told was a leaking rear main seal by a mechanic and also exert online diagnosis. It was not.
I already had the transmission out to do a rebuild, so pulled the flex plate. There was no real leak coming from it. I replaced it anyway because I was there and it was $5. My point is that oil at the engine/tranny junction can come from a number of places; it's the lowest collection point on most engines and can come from valve cover gaskets, cam shaft seals, etc.
Because that is where the oil IS, does not mean that is where it came FROM.
I leaned this myself the (not expensive way) last month when I replaced what I was told was a leaking rear main seal by a mechanic and also exert online diagnosis. It was not.
I already had the transmission out to do a rebuild, so pulled the flex plate. There was no real leak coming from it. I replaced it anyway because I was there and it was $5. My point is that oil at the engine/tranny junction can come from a number of places; it's the lowest collection point on most engines and can come from valve cover gaskets, cam shaft seals, etc.
Because that is where the oil IS, does not mean that is where it came FROM.
Originally Posted By: dkryan
The mechanic said it was a "high pressure seal" and that it would leak while I was driving, not while the engine was off.
That's not a term I have ever seen associated with any crank or cam seals. Usually, excess pressure from a faulty pcv is enough to comprimise seals, that that's no where near what I would consider "high pressure". Last 'yota' RMS I had experience with was a reasonably sturdy rubber ring with a thin spring reinforcing tension, it looked no different than any other seal. I'm not sure I really buy the explanation.
The mechanic said it was a "high pressure seal" and that it would leak while I was driving, not while the engine was off.
That's not a term I have ever seen associated with any crank or cam seals. Usually, excess pressure from a faulty pcv is enough to comprimise seals, that that's no where near what I would consider "high pressure". Last 'yota' RMS I had experience with was a reasonably sturdy rubber ring with a thin spring reinforcing tension, it looked no different than any other seal. I'm not sure I really buy the explanation.
Originally Posted By: Or
I wonder how many mis-diagnosed rear main seal leaks get "fixed" unnecessarily.
I leaned this myself the (not expensive way) last month when I replaced what I was told was a leaking rear main seal by a mechanic and also exert online diagnosis. It was not.
I already had the transmission out to do a rebuild, so pulled the flex plate. There was no real leak coming from it. I replaced it anyway because I was there and it was $5. My point is that oil at the engine/tranny junction can come from a number of places; it's the lowest collection point on most engines and can come from valve cover gaskets, cam shaft seals, etc.
Because that is where the oil IS, does not mean that is where it came FROM.
You're right, you can't tell for sure it's the RMS until you take it apart but no matter where it's coming from, it's a lot of labor to replace an inexpensive part. I think my RMS and cam shaft seals are leaking but I'll never know for sure because I'm never going to open it up to repair it.
I wonder how many mis-diagnosed rear main seal leaks get "fixed" unnecessarily.
I leaned this myself the (not expensive way) last month when I replaced what I was told was a leaking rear main seal by a mechanic and also exert online diagnosis. It was not.
I already had the transmission out to do a rebuild, so pulled the flex plate. There was no real leak coming from it. I replaced it anyway because I was there and it was $5. My point is that oil at the engine/tranny junction can come from a number of places; it's the lowest collection point on most engines and can come from valve cover gaskets, cam shaft seals, etc.
Because that is where the oil IS, does not mean that is where it came FROM.
You're right, you can't tell for sure it's the RMS until you take it apart but no matter where it's coming from, it's a lot of labor to replace an inexpensive part. I think my RMS and cam shaft seals are leaking but I'll never know for sure because I'm never going to open it up to repair it.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
How bad is it leaking ? Does it actually form a drip and drip on the garage floor ?
Merkava -
I don't believe it's leaking. It might be "seeping" or it might be "weeping" (at least it rhymes) but there is nothing on the garage floor or driveway. Ever.
My point for the update was that after 5k miles thus far on Old School Platinum 5w-30, the oil level is still full.
For the supposed $14.25 for the replacement part, there is no way I'm paying the labor charge to change that RMS. That assumes it IS the RMS.
At 120k miles on the odometer, when I begin to add one quart every 1k miles, well, I'll just buy Momma a new SUV.
How bad is it leaking ? Does it actually form a drip and drip on the garage floor ?
Merkava -
I don't believe it's leaking. It might be "seeping" or it might be "weeping" (at least it rhymes) but there is nothing on the garage floor or driveway. Ever.
My point for the update was that after 5k miles thus far on Old School Platinum 5w-30, the oil level is still full.
For the supposed $14.25 for the replacement part, there is no way I'm paying the labor charge to change that RMS. That assumes it IS the RMS.
At 120k miles on the odometer, when I begin to add one quart every 1k miles, well, I'll just buy Momma a new SUV.
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