Please tell me what all is involved to take the oil pan off and change bearings.
This thing needs to run.
This thing needs to run.
BIG oil leak, low oil pressure
- Thread starter TechnoLoGs
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
We got it timed, changed out a cracked spark plug, drained out 10 or 11 quarts of oil and it has a rod knock.
You drained 10 or 11 quarts?! All at once? If it had that much oil it then that was probably your leak since it only holds 5 and was pushing it out of anywhere it could!
If it has a knock, then there is no magic fix for oil. You can run thicker oil to help quiet it down but the bottom line is it needs work. How is the oil pressure?
We got it timed, changed out a cracked spark plug, drained out 10 or 11 quarts of oil and it has a rod knock.
You drained 10 or 11 quarts?! All at once? If it had that much oil it then that was probably your leak since it only holds 5 and was pushing it out of anywhere it could!
If it has a knock, then there is no magic fix for oil. You can run thicker oil to help quiet it down but the bottom line is it needs work. How is the oil pressure?
Originally Posted By: morepwr
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
We got it timed, changed out a cracked spark plug, drained out 10 or 11 quarts of oil and it has a rod knock.
You drained 10 or 11 quarts?! All at once? If it had that much oil it then that was probably your leak since it only holds 5 and was pushing it out of anywhere it could!
If it has a knock, then there is no magic fix for oil. You can run thicker oil to help quiet it down but the bottom line is it needs work. How is the oil pressure?
Hi there. I had left out a few details, very sorry.. The leak was in fact coming from the dipstick housing. The GOOD mechanic, across town and passed off to by the [censored] mechanic, showed me how it was pouring out like a small river from there, and how the installed, broken, thrown-on dipstick was too short. He went and found a replacement from another 4.3 and I will try the old dipstick in the new tube.
I also learned something new every day; it appears that 10 or 11 quarts drained when he took the dipstick housing off, then appeared to drain the rest of the oil I assume through the pan bolt. I did not know an engine could hold that much oil, even a 4.3. He feels it helped spin a bearing.
He diagnosed me with "Rod knock, spun bearing." The oil does not appear to have metal shavings. My dumb [censored] bought 10W-30, thinking the motor would be fine. He told me that I could do bearings, but it would be $800-$1000. I can say that the motor now does not drip a drop of oil.
It was all about the TIMING today. It is now spot-on, and the engine has power. It doesn't overheat, either. Does not smoke, but sometimes "surges." I wish I could tell you how the oil pressure is, as the sender is still malfunctioning. The engine loses power when it surges. I want to try thicker oil, I wonder how much it will help things. Still, for my roadtrip, I want to get these bearings in there.
So, based on everything you know, how would the engine be looking after bearings???? Acting???? I would share OP readings but that sensor is busted.
Everything else now works......................................
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
We got it timed, changed out a cracked spark plug, drained out 10 or 11 quarts of oil and it has a rod knock.
You drained 10 or 11 quarts?! All at once? If it had that much oil it then that was probably your leak since it only holds 5 and was pushing it out of anywhere it could!
If it has a knock, then there is no magic fix for oil. You can run thicker oil to help quiet it down but the bottom line is it needs work. How is the oil pressure?
Hi there. I had left out a few details, very sorry.. The leak was in fact coming from the dipstick housing. The GOOD mechanic, across town and passed off to by the [censored] mechanic, showed me how it was pouring out like a small river from there, and how the installed, broken, thrown-on dipstick was too short. He went and found a replacement from another 4.3 and I will try the old dipstick in the new tube.
I also learned something new every day; it appears that 10 or 11 quarts drained when he took the dipstick housing off, then appeared to drain the rest of the oil I assume through the pan bolt. I did not know an engine could hold that much oil, even a 4.3. He feels it helped spin a bearing.
He diagnosed me with "Rod knock, spun bearing." The oil does not appear to have metal shavings. My dumb [censored] bought 10W-30, thinking the motor would be fine. He told me that I could do bearings, but it would be $800-$1000. I can say that the motor now does not drip a drop of oil.
It was all about the TIMING today. It is now spot-on, and the engine has power. It doesn't overheat, either. Does not smoke, but sometimes "surges." I wish I could tell you how the oil pressure is, as the sender is still malfunctioning. The engine loses power when it surges. I want to try thicker oil, I wonder how much it will help things. Still, for my roadtrip, I want to get these bearings in there.
So, based on everything you know, how would the engine be looking after bearings???? Acting???? I would share OP readings but that sensor is busted.
Everything else now works......................................
Theres no way to know without looking inside. If there is a spun bearing then there is most likely going to be other problems. The rod journal can be out of round and the crankshaft could easily be wiped out on that bearing journal. There is nothing wrong with the 10w-30 you bought and thicker oil isnt going to fix a knock.
is there any type of warranty on the junk yard engine? I doubt a set of bearings is going to fix it for very long. Thicker oil most definitely won't fix it.....you're asking for a hole in the block.
+1.
Most junk yards have at least a 30 day warranty. In truth, they don't know the condition of the engine sometimes. The previous owner may have dogged it like mad.
Ask them and find out.
I would NOT take that engine on a road trip unless prepared to rent a car along the way. If you need to make the trip, rent the car now for the trip.
Most junk yards have at least a 30 day warranty. In truth, they don't know the condition of the engine sometimes. The previous owner may have dogged it like mad.
Ask them and find out.
I would NOT take that engine on a road trip unless prepared to rent a car along the way. If you need to make the trip, rent the car now for the trip.
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Next question: Can rod knock be overcome with the thickest oil on the shelf? 20W50 or better?
No.
Some noises can be quietened with thicker oil and the engine will live on as if nothing is wrong e.g piston slap or floating piston pin noises on some engines but a rod or main knock isn't one of them.
It will just get louder and may even get worse faster with thicker oil because the oil flow is reduced at cold start.
This kind of noise needs to be taken care of yesterday before it damages the crank if it didn't already.
Next question: Can rod knock be overcome with the thickest oil on the shelf? 20W50 or better?
No.
Some noises can be quietened with thicker oil and the engine will live on as if nothing is wrong e.g piston slap or floating piston pin noises on some engines but a rod or main knock isn't one of them.
It will just get louder and may even get worse faster with thicker oil because the oil flow is reduced at cold start.
This kind of noise needs to be taken care of yesterday before it damages the crank if it didn't already.
Originally Posted By: eagle23
+1.
Most junk yards have at least a 30 day warranty. In truth, they don't know the condition of the engine sometimes. The previous owner may have dogged it like mad.
Ask them and find out.
I would NOT take that engine on a road trip unless prepared to rent a car along the way. If you need to make the trip, rent the car now for the trip.
quoted for truth.
Also you need to stop going to back alley cash mechanics. Go somewhere with a receipt and written warranty.
+1.
Most junk yards have at least a 30 day warranty. In truth, they don't know the condition of the engine sometimes. The previous owner may have dogged it like mad.
Ask them and find out.
I would NOT take that engine on a road trip unless prepared to rent a car along the way. If you need to make the trip, rent the car now for the trip.
quoted for truth.
Also you need to stop going to back alley cash mechanics. Go somewhere with a receipt and written warranty.
^^ They do have a 30-day warranty.
I contacted the yard, he says to send a video of it running and asked what weight I put in. Let me cut and paste that message:
I also found this GM V6 4.3L Chevy S10 car truck crankshaft kit 1992 93 94 95 96 97 VIN-W bearings Thoughts? Opinions? WWYD?
And now, that EBay message, unedited: (Yes, the seller sent it from his Windows Phone)
We have a 30 day warranty, If you can provide a video of the motor running so we can hear it, also somewhere on the motor is yellow writing with a 6 digit number, or stamped, to show that the motor is actually in the vehicle.
That motor was ran for a good while, and no weird noises, if it did, we would have never even considered pulling it for resale. Needless to say, we have a 30 day warranty on motors and transmissions, for a replacement, but you have to pay for freight of the motor your sending back, we cover the replacement freight shipping, that's why I need to see and hear the knock, if possible
Is it possible that something else sounds like a rod knock, if a exhaust manifold is not installed correctly, and or is cracked, it will leak, and cause a sound coming from the lower end of the motor, sounds almost the same as a lower internal problem
What weight motor oil was put in the motor, that is also a important part of running a motor that has not been ran on a while, ww always recommend using Lucas oil additive, thickens the oil and makes it sticky, that way the oil adheres to the parts that need lubrication
Sent from my Windows Phone
I am in my F150 as we speak going back and forth to the new shop to get this going. Present focus is on the S10.
I contacted the yard, he says to send a video of it running and asked what weight I put in. Let me cut and paste that message:
I also found this GM V6 4.3L Chevy S10 car truck crankshaft kit 1992 93 94 95 96 97 VIN-W bearings Thoughts? Opinions? WWYD?
And now, that EBay message, unedited: (Yes, the seller sent it from his Windows Phone)
We have a 30 day warranty, If you can provide a video of the motor running so we can hear it, also somewhere on the motor is yellow writing with a 6 digit number, or stamped, to show that the motor is actually in the vehicle.
That motor was ran for a good while, and no weird noises, if it did, we would have never even considered pulling it for resale. Needless to say, we have a 30 day warranty on motors and transmissions, for a replacement, but you have to pay for freight of the motor your sending back, we cover the replacement freight shipping, that's why I need to see and hear the knock, if possible
Is it possible that something else sounds like a rod knock, if a exhaust manifold is not installed correctly, and or is cracked, it will leak, and cause a sound coming from the lower end of the motor, sounds almost the same as a lower internal problem
What weight motor oil was put in the motor, that is also a important part of running a motor that has not been ran on a while, ww always recommend using Lucas oil additive, thickens the oil and makes it sticky, that way the oil adheres to the parts that need lubrication
Sent from my Windows Phone
I am in my F150 as we speak going back and forth to the new shop to get this going. Present focus is on the S10.
Quote:
Also you need to stop going to back alley cash mechanics. Go somewhere with a receipt and written warranty.
I will agree with this.
This time, I got a written receipt. It says Engine time, dipstick replace, spark plug replace, $120.
Also you need to stop going to back alley cash mechanics. Go somewhere with a receipt and written warranty.
I will agree with this.
This time, I got a written receipt. It says Engine time, dipstick replace, spark plug replace, $120.
You may not have the time...and you may be in a stuck position.
What I'd recommend is that you read-up on some valuable literature concerning engine repair and really familiarize yourself with any engine repair that you may need to perform..
Don't take this the wrong way.
We're trying to be as helpfull as possible ..but we're not there ..only you are.So we can't see what you see.
What I'd recommend is that you read-up on some valuable literature concerning engine repair and really familiarize yourself with any engine repair that you may need to perform..
Don't take this the wrong way.
We're trying to be as helpfull as possible ..but we're not there ..only you are.So we can't see what you see.
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Hi there. I had left out a few details, very sorry.. The leak was in fact coming from the dipstick housing. The GOOD mechanic, across town and passed off to by the [censored] mechanic, showed me how it was pouring out like a small river from there, and how the installed, broken, thrown-on dipstick was too short. He went and found a replacement from another 4.3 and I will try the old dipstick in the new tube.
I also learned something new every day; it appears that 10 or 11 quarts drained when he took the dipstick housing off, then appeared to drain the rest of the oil I assume through the pan bolt. I did not know an engine could hold that much oil, even a 4.3. He feels it helped spin a bearing.
You still didn't explain how that much oil got into the engine in the first place.
BC.
Hi there. I had left out a few details, very sorry.. The leak was in fact coming from the dipstick housing. The GOOD mechanic, across town and passed off to by the [censored] mechanic, showed me how it was pouring out like a small river from there, and how the installed, broken, thrown-on dipstick was too short. He went and found a replacement from another 4.3 and I will try the old dipstick in the new tube.
I also learned something new every day; it appears that 10 or 11 quarts drained when he took the dipstick housing off, then appeared to drain the rest of the oil I assume through the pan bolt. I did not know an engine could hold that much oil, even a 4.3. He feels it helped spin a bearing.
You still didn't explain how that much oil got into the engine in the first place.
BC.
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
We got it timed, changed out a cracked spark plug, drained out 10 or 11 quarts of oil and it has a rod knock.
This is a real long shot but i have seen it once when an engine was replaced.
Check the front part of the oil pan, it may have been damaged and the crank or the tray is hitting it.
Put your hand on the pan with the engine running, you will feel it if it is.
Still wondering how all that oil got in there.
We got it timed, changed out a cracked spark plug, drained out 10 or 11 quarts of oil and it has a rod knock.
This is a real long shot but i have seen it once when an engine was replaced.
Check the front part of the oil pan, it may have been damaged and the crank or the tray is hitting it.
Put your hand on the pan with the engine running, you will feel it if it is.
Still wondering how all that oil got in there.
^^^^ Awesome. Update:
- Will post video of it starting, from cold, today when I get home. Was out all day. It stalled. Timing still suspect (?)
- Maryland yard refunded me the engine, could not locate another 4.3.
- Passed on bearing work.. Took the advice of here, and not Mechanic #2 of the Dynamic Duo.
Quote:
how did all that oil get in there
Simple, really... It left puddles at lights, exactly the same as opening up a jug of your favorite or cheapest oil and pouring it on the ground at a slow rate. Therefore, oil was added. Source of dipstick was not determined. Now it sounds all [censored] up.
So, we either have three options:
1. Engine #3 (Hey, why not right?)
2. ADJUST AND FIX THIS ONE. I need clarity, is BITOG saying NO bearings?....
3. Frankenengine with my new best friend, a good ol' boy across the street, talking about putting a 350SBC in it.
^^ No, that is not a joke. However, I directed the enthusiasm of engine work to the 4.3 setup, since I was supposed to go on a roadtrip this week. I guess we all forgot about that? This cannot continue like this, as fun as it is. I need to make this work, and then remember how important radiator caps are.. Let us remember how we got here in the first place.
Gotta go home, that video is on my camera. Discuss.
- Will post video of it starting, from cold, today when I get home. Was out all day. It stalled. Timing still suspect (?)
- Maryland yard refunded me the engine, could not locate another 4.3.
- Passed on bearing work.. Took the advice of here, and not Mechanic #2 of the Dynamic Duo.
Quote:
how did all that oil get in there
Simple, really... It left puddles at lights, exactly the same as opening up a jug of your favorite or cheapest oil and pouring it on the ground at a slow rate. Therefore, oil was added. Source of dipstick was not determined. Now it sounds all [censored] up.
So, we either have three options:
1. Engine #3 (Hey, why not right?)
2. ADJUST AND FIX THIS ONE. I need clarity, is BITOG saying NO bearings?....
3. Frankenengine with my new best friend, a good ol' boy across the street, talking about putting a 350SBC in it.
^^ No, that is not a joke. However, I directed the enthusiasm of engine work to the 4.3 setup, since I was supposed to go on a roadtrip this week. I guess we all forgot about that? This cannot continue like this, as fun as it is. I need to make this work, and then remember how important radiator caps are.. Let us remember how we got here in the first place.
Gotta go home, that video is on my camera. Discuss.
I will upload it soon, I need to save the S10.
The latest:
Seller corresponds:
Quote:
If there is indeed a rod knock, I would fix that, you going to be hard pressed to find another for what little you have in it now
Quote:
10W30 motor oil is way, way, way too light for that motor, 10w40 or 20w50, and add Lucas Oil Stabilizer
That knock is minor, most all of those 4.3 motors will make some kind of noise, especially being of that age, still sounds out of time in the video, at the end of the video I head something about stalling.
Heres the deal, I offer a 100 dollars back to you as a partial refund, you keep the motor in the truck, and drive it till it fails, if it ever fails
Just add thicker oil, and the Lucas oil Stabilizer
I am driving a S10 with a 4.3 also, has knocked for the last 15 years, sometimes it get louder, and sometimes it goes away, I vowed to drive it till it failed, well it still hasn't failed, 322,000 miles on it, I drive the dog [censored] out of this, I dont take care of it, never wash it, use it to haul wood, garbage, but it still keeps on going
You may have other issues, unreleated to the motor, such as sensors, air flow meter, injectors, etc
Let me know
Stup's
I also received a partial refund of $100.
So, how does this get fixed correctly? It runs as if it has a cylinder with maybe low compression, surges sometimes. Going to furl up with 93 to see if by some freak chance it is knocking and pinging, as to gas.
FL_Rob, all, this is great advice. Trying to share with pic and video so that you can see what I see. I need to get this FIXED!
Seller corresponds:
Quote:
If there is indeed a rod knock, I would fix that, you going to be hard pressed to find another for what little you have in it now
Quote:
10W30 motor oil is way, way, way too light for that motor, 10w40 or 20w50, and add Lucas Oil Stabilizer
That knock is minor, most all of those 4.3 motors will make some kind of noise, especially being of that age, still sounds out of time in the video, at the end of the video I head something about stalling.
Heres the deal, I offer a 100 dollars back to you as a partial refund, you keep the motor in the truck, and drive it till it fails, if it ever fails
Just add thicker oil, and the Lucas oil Stabilizer
I am driving a S10 with a 4.3 also, has knocked for the last 15 years, sometimes it get louder, and sometimes it goes away, I vowed to drive it till it failed, well it still hasn't failed, 322,000 miles on it, I drive the dog [censored] out of this, I dont take care of it, never wash it, use it to haul wood, garbage, but it still keeps on going
You may have other issues, unreleated to the motor, such as sensors, air flow meter, injectors, etc
Let me know
Stup's
I also received a partial refund of $100.
So, how does this get fixed correctly? It runs as if it has a cylinder with maybe low compression, surges sometimes. Going to furl up with 93 to see if by some freak chance it is knocking and pinging, as to gas.
FL_Rob, all, this is great advice. Trying to share with pic and video so that you can see what I see. I need to get this FIXED!
I now have (went and got) my donor engine and this is what it sounded like at idle, since I am dealing with the S10. I changed oil for thicker. This is how it sounds after it warmed up:
How does the S-10 "feel" in a drive around the block? I almost suspect fuel pressure because it will die at lights, and start back up easier if I give it gas. I added 4 gallons of 93 octane gas and the tank is full. It does not overheat. Also, it still "surges" and bucks sometimes.. small chance it is knock or pinging? No check engine lights are on after new motor. I changed the oil to heavier, as well. Locating mechanic to do the road and bearing. I like GreeCGuy's tip on the other thread by the other member, with the knocking Cavalier.
How does the S-10 "feel" in a drive around the block? I almost suspect fuel pressure because it will die at lights, and start back up easier if I give it gas. I added 4 gallons of 93 octane gas and the tank is full. It does not overheat. Also, it still "surges" and bucks sometimes.. small chance it is knock or pinging? No check engine lights are on after new motor. I changed the oil to heavier, as well. Locating mechanic to do the road and bearing. I like GreeCGuy's tip on the other thread by the other member, with the knocking Cavalier.
Now, just to confirm.. Bearings will NOT fix the issue of the rod jumping around and knocking? The rod goes into the bearing, and if one was spun, changing it.. WONT help? Or would it fix the problem, if everything else was good..
I notice the engine likes to stall when it gets fully warmed and at lights. Sometimes being on the brake helps it stall, other times not, I gas it up sometimes and it runs but the idle bogs way low at lights. I also read what GreeCGuy wrote, that the rod issue is causing the low oil pressure.
If you were me, would you take it to the guy that says it is bearings and has the part ready to go at all? Even if somehow he lowered the price, which I think he won't?
I notice the engine likes to stall when it gets fully warmed and at lights. Sometimes being on the brake helps it stall, other times not, I gas it up sometimes and it runs but the idle bogs way low at lights. I also read what GreeCGuy wrote, that the rod issue is causing the low oil pressure.
If you were me, would you take it to the guy that says it is bearings and has the part ready to go at all? Even if somehow he lowered the price, which I think he won't?
I would scrap that engine and get one that you have heard run.
- Status
