We own a 2000 Volvo V70 XC AWD. Wow. NICE!

[fdcg27]

This does look like a nice car.
To keep it that way, do what those with Volvo experience recommend.
Get the timing belt done ASAP, since to do otherwise may result in sudden engine death.
Plan a few short runs of a decent cleaning oil and maybe invest in a few bottles of ARX.
Do the ABS module repair.
Do all of the car's fluids using correct spec fluids.
You'll spend a few dollars on this car, but you can afford to for what you paid for it.
The Subaru would have been a less costly proposition to own and maintain, but they have interference engines with timing belts as well, and this is going to be your major expense.

 

[Volvohead]

Originally Posted By: ueberooo
(I believe the volvo rec'd interval is something like 105k or 120k, . . .


It's 105k on the '00s.

The reason these cars wind up on lots for $2k in this mileage range is that the original owners dump them close to major maintenance time. Meanwhile, the maintenance doesn't get done. Along the way, the service book sometimes disappears -- then you're blind. If you can locate the original selling dealer (Carfax), they will sometimes still have the service history on their computer.

Sometimes, they go through a couple interim owners before they either die an early death (like a lot of other $2k corner lot specials) from missed maintenance and abuse, or someone who knows what they need invests the necessary money to keep them right.

Once maintained, unless otherwise abused, you can expect another relatively peaceful 100k+ until the next interval. And so on, and so on. The body structural and core mechanicals on them are like the Rock of Gibraltar.

This one has all the classic symptoms of that type of car: sludge (from 5w-30 dealer dino bulk changes at 7,500), a typical bad ABS (which the dealer likely quoted $600-800 to replace), and an overdue timing belt service ($1k at the dealer, $750-900 elsewhere). With no service records, you must assume that it was not done (unless the mechanic was thoughtful enough to paste a sticker on the belt cover). It wouldn't surprise me if the AC evap is also shot (that's $1,500+ at the dealer). Those are just some of it. Worn engine mounts, loose stabilizer links, the list goes on. Even routine maintenance items are not cheap. A set of the right spark plugs is over $40. And it eats lots of $4 premium fuel on top of it.

Definitely not a budget ride. And this is an AWD version to boot.

As mentioned before, unless the seller has done the work, you need to set aside at least $1,500 on a $2k example to bring them back to norm. Usually more.

But I sense the OP is completely oblivious to or in denial of all of this, and is honeymooning over what grades of RL to pour in it. I also get the sense that this was a budget-stretch to begin with. That's not meant to be disrespectful. But it seems to be the reality. This was a $40k car when new. They cost $$ to keep.

There's really not much more to add at this point.

I'll just quietly follow the OP's threads now, and see where the story leads. Sometimes it's a happy ending, sometimes not. I do wish him all the best with it.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Volvohead
Originally Posted By: ueberooo
(I believe the volvo rec'd interval is something like 105k or 120k, . . .


It's 105k on the '00s.

The reason these cars wind up on lots for $2k in this mileage range is that the original owners dump them close to major maintenance time. Meanwhile, the maintenance doesn't get done. Along the way, the service book sometimes disappears -- then you're blind. If you can locate the original selling dealer (Carfax), they will sometimes still have the service history on their computer.

Sometimes, they go through a couple interim owners before they either die an early death (like a lot of other $2k corner lot specials) from missed maintenance and abuse, or someone who knows what they need invests the necessary money to keep them right.

Once maintained, unless otherwise abused, you can expect another relatively peaceful 100k+ until the next interval. And so on, and so on. The body structural and core mechanicals on them are like the Rock of Gibraltar.

This one has all the classic symptoms of that type of car: sludge (from 5w-30 dealer dino bulk changes at 7,500), a typical bad ABS (which the dealer likely quoted $600-800 to replace), and an overdue timing belt service ($1k at the dealer, $750-900 elsewhere). With no service records, you must assume that it was not done (unless the mechanic was thoughtful enough to paste a sticker on the belt cover). It wouldn't surprise me if the AC evap is also shot (that's $1,500+ at the dealer). Those are just some of it. Worn engine mounts, loose stabilizer links, the list goes on. Even routine maintenance items are not cheap. A set of the right spark plugs is over $40. And it eats lots of $4 premium fuel on top of it.

Definitely not a budget ride. And this is an AWD version to boot.

As mentioned before, unless the seller has done the work, you need to set aside at least $1,500 on a $2k example to bring them back to norm. Usually more.

But I sense the OP is completely oblivious to or in denial of all of this, and is honeymooning over what grades of RL to pour in it. I also get the sense that this was a budget-stretch to begin with. That's not meant to be disrespectful. But it seems to be the reality. This was a $40k car when new. They cost $$ to keep.

There's really not much more to add at this point.

I'll just quietly follow the OP's threads now, and see where the story leads. Sometimes it's a happy ending, sometimes not. I do wish him all the best with it.


Excellent post

The OP needs to be following your advice on this and appears not to be. That's a recipe for disaster

 

[Vikas]

You guys have patience of a saint; I was already out.

 

[TooManyWheels]

Originally Posted By: Vikas
You guys have patience of a saint; I was already out.


+1

 

[GearheadTool]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: Volvohead
Originally Posted By: ueberooo
(I believe the volvo rec'd interval is something like 105k or 120k, . . .


It's 105k on the '00s.

The reason these cars wind up on lots for $2k in this mileage range is that the original owners dump them close to major maintenance time. Meanwhile, the maintenance doesn't get done. Along the way, the service book sometimes disappears -- then you're blind. If you can locate the original selling dealer (Carfax), they will sometimes still have the service history on their computer.

Sometimes, they go through a couple interim owners before they either die an early death (like a lot of other $2k corner lot specials) from missed maintenance and abuse, or someone who knows what they need invests the necessary money to keep them right.

Once maintained, unless otherwise abused, you can expect another relatively peaceful 100k+ until the next interval. And so on, and so on. The body structural and core mechanicals on them are like the Rock of Gibraltar.

This one has all the classic symptoms of that type of car: sludge (from 5w-30 dealer dino bulk changes at 7,500), a typical bad ABS (which the dealer likely quoted $600-800 to replace), and an overdue timing belt service ($1k at the dealer, $750-900 elsewhere). With no service records, you must assume that it was not done (unless the mechanic was thoughtful enough to paste a sticker on the belt cover). It wouldn't surprise me if the AC evap is also shot (that's $1,500+ at the dealer). Those are just some of it. Worn engine mounts, loose stabilizer links, the list goes on. Even routine maintenance items are not cheap. A set of the right spark plugs is over $40. And it eats lots of $4 premium fuel on top of it.

Definitely not a budget ride. And this is an AWD version to boot.

As mentioned before, unless the seller has done the work, you need to set aside at least $1,500 on a $2k example to bring them back to norm. Usually more.

But I sense the OP is completely oblivious to or in denial of all of this, and is honeymooning over what grades of RL to pour in it. I also get the sense that this was a budget-stretch to begin with. That's not meant to be disrespectful. But it seems to be the reality. This was a $40k car when new. They cost $$ to keep.

There's really not much more to add at this point.

I'll just quietly follow the OP's threads now, and see where the story leads. Sometimes it's a happy ending, sometimes not. I do wish him all the best with it.


Excellent post

The OP needs to be following your advice on this and appears not to be. That's a recipe for disaster

Ahhh, ye of little faith...

The money is getting saved up...
Sam's will get to do the ABS.. I drove the car to day with NO sensors acting up.
Oil is topped off, with MMO in it
Seafoam in the tank, one only

This thing WILL get handled, and I REALLY appreciate the advice.

I can tell you I LOVE the car and this oil will probably get changed in a month or so.

Time to turn this unloaded car into a gem. No problem re-marrying it at $2000. And no, it wont be the engine! Though its weird the CEL/SES light came on, then off.. Yes, it will get there.

*EDIT: I was tasked with buying a luxiry vehicle with next to no money, and I came away with a good example with many original parts. We turned down Subarus (too small) and Jeeps. I succeeded. Went to Pepperell, MA (near MA/NH line) to get it, too. It has only acted up twice but its supposed to act up zero times, the "wont accelerate right" issue was the strangest.. But I want to thank Volvohead, eljefino, etc.. The car will get serviced.

 

[hattaresguy]

Originally Posted By: Volvohead
Originally Posted By: ueberooo
(I believe the volvo rec'd interval is something like 105k or 120k, . . .


It's 105k on the '00s.

The reason these cars wind up on lots for $2k in this mileage range is that the original owners dump them close to major maintenance time. Meanwhile, the maintenance doesn't get done. Along the way, the service book sometimes disappears -- then you're blind. If you can locate the original selling dealer (Carfax), they will sometimes still have the service history on their computer.

Sometimes, they go through a couple interim owners before they either die an early death (like a lot of other $2k corner lot specials) from missed maintenance and abuse, or someone who knows what they need invests the necessary money to keep them right.

Once maintained, unless otherwise abused, you can expect another relatively peaceful 100k+ until the next interval. And so on, and so on. The body structural and core mechanicals on them are like the Rock of Gibraltar.

This one has all the classic symptoms of that type of car: sludge (from 5w-30 dealer dino bulk changes at 7,500), a typical bad ABS (which the dealer likely quoted $600-800 to replace), and an overdue timing belt service ($1k at the dealer, $750-900 elsewhere). With no service records, you must assume that it was not done (unless the mechanic was thoughtful enough to paste a sticker on the belt cover). It wouldn't surprise me if the AC evap is also shot (that's $1,500+ at the dealer). Those are just some of it. Worn engine mounts, loose stabilizer links, the list goes on. Even routine maintenance items are not cheap. A set of the right spark plugs is over $40. And it eats lots of $4 premium fuel on top of it.

Definitely not a budget ride. And this is an AWD version to boot.

As mentioned before, unless the seller has done the work, you need to set aside at least $1,500 on a $2k example to bring them back to norm. Usually more.

But I sense the OP is completely oblivious to or in denial of all of this, and is honeymooning over what grades of RL to pour in it. I also get the sense that this was a budget-stretch to begin with. That's not meant to be disrespectful. But it seems to be the reality. This was a $40k car when new. They cost $$ to keep.

There's really not much more to add at this point.

I'll just quietly follow the OP's threads now, and see where the story leads. Sometimes it's a happy ending, sometimes not. I do wish him all the best with it.


Yeah I see guys do this in the Mercedes world all the time. They think cool I can own a nice car for cheap, wrong, don't pass go.

Older high end cars are not for the faint of wallet and require a specialist to fix properly if you can't do it yourself.

I used to help guys trying to get into an older MB look at cars and I have never seen a sub $5k example that didn't need at least $2k worth of work if not more right off the bat to get right. Problem with them and I suspect Volvo's as well is they will drive and look fine, and a laymen will think they are perfectly fine. So they buy it, drive off, than they find out later what they really did buy...

This is why in the old high end European car world service records are everything. A well documented example will fetch a huge premium over an unknown if bought by someone who knows what they are looking at.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: Volvohead
Originally Posted By: ueberooo
(I believe the volvo rec'd interval is something like 105k or 120k, . . .


It's 105k on the '00s.

The reason these cars wind up on lots for $2k in this mileage range is that the original owners dump them close to major maintenance time. Meanwhile, the maintenance doesn't get done. Along the way, the service book sometimes disappears -- then you're blind. If you can locate the original selling dealer (Carfax), they will sometimes still have the service history on their computer.

Sometimes, they go through a couple interim owners before they either die an early death (like a lot of other $2k corner lot specials) from missed maintenance and abuse, or someone who knows what they need invests the necessary money to keep them right.

Once maintained, unless otherwise abused, you can expect another relatively peaceful 100k+ until the next interval. And so on, and so on. The body structural and core mechanicals on them are like the Rock of Gibraltar.

This one has all the classic symptoms of that type of car: sludge (from 5w-30 dealer dino bulk changes at 7,500), a typical bad ABS (which the dealer likely quoted $600-800 to replace), and an overdue timing belt service ($1k at the dealer, $750-900 elsewhere). With no service records, you must assume that it was not done (unless the mechanic was thoughtful enough to paste a sticker on the belt cover). It wouldn't surprise me if the AC evap is also shot (that's $1,500+ at the dealer). Those are just some of it. Worn engine mounts, loose stabilizer links, the list goes on. Even routine maintenance items are not cheap. A set of the right spark plugs is over $40. And it eats lots of $4 premium fuel on top of it.

Definitely not a budget ride. And this is an AWD version to boot.

As mentioned before, unless the seller has done the work, you need to set aside at least $1,500 on a $2k example to bring them back to norm. Usually more.

But I sense the OP is completely oblivious to or in denial of all of this, and is honeymooning over what grades of RL to pour in it. I also get the sense that this was a budget-stretch to begin with. That's not meant to be disrespectful. But it seems to be the reality. This was a $40k car when new. They cost $$ to keep.

There's really not much more to add at this point.

I'll just quietly follow the OP's threads now, and see where the story leads. Sometimes it's a happy ending, sometimes not. I do wish him all the best with it.


Excellent post

The OP needs to be following your advice on this and appears not to be. That's a recipe for disaster

Ahhh, ye of little faith...

The money is getting saved up...
Sam's will get to do the ABS.. I drove the car to day with NO sensors acting up.
Oil is topped off, with MMO in it
Seafoam in the tank, one only

This thing WILL get handled, and I REALLY appreciate the advice.

I can tell you I LOVE the car and this oil will probably get changed in a month or so.

Time to turn this unloaded car into a gem. No problem re-marrying it at $2000. And no, it wont be the engine! Though its weird the CEL/SES light came on, then off.. Yes, it will get there.

*EDIT: I was tasked with buying a luxiry vehicle with next to no money, and I came away with a good example with many original parts. We turned down Subarus (too small) and Jeeps. I succeeded. Went to Pepperell, MA (near MA/NH line) to get it, too. It has only acted up twice but its supposed to act up zero times, the "wont accelerate right" issue was the strangest.. But I want to thank Volvohead, eljefino, etc.. The car will get serviced.


No offence intended here, but why waste money on Seafoam and MMO when that money could be, and SHOULD be put toward doing the timing belt? No magic potion in the world is going to save your valvetrain if that puppy snaps.

 

[ueberooo]

Originally Posted By: Volvohead
The reason these cars wind up on lots for $2k in this mileage range is that the original owners dump them close to major maintenance time. Meanwhile, the maintenance doesn't get done. Along the way, the service book sometimes disappears[....] Sometimes, they go through a couple interim owners before they either die an early death (like a lot of other $2k corner lot specials) from missed maintenance and abuse, or someone who knows what they need invests the necessary money to keep them right[....]
Once maintained, unless otherwise abused, you can expect another relatively peaceful 100k+ until the next interval[....]
With no service records, you must assume that it was not done (unless the mechanic was thoughtful enough to paste a sticker on the belt cover)[....]

Yep they either turn into a large (almost 2 ton) hunk of scrap metal at a scrapper or a pick n pull junkyard, or a they get caught up in repairs. Odds seem very high (IMO upward of 9 in 10) that the reason for the markdown in price is some missing and very overdue maintenance. However small, there is still some small but nonzero chance the belt and water pump did get done. Look for any such evidence as suggested above (auto shop sticker on the t-belt cover).

If it were me, after looking for a sticker, I'd spend the small bit of time that it takes remove the timing belt cover (could be as little as half an hour). All you need is the right torx hex bit and a hex bit screw driver (while you're at it, you can also change the spark plugs, shouldn't take longer than an hour and less than $20 for ngk plat's with a tube of antiseize grease).

Anyway, taking a a good look at the t-belt is an important and an urgently time sensitive inspection--and something you could do for less than $10 at Sears for the right torx hex bit and hexbit screwdriver, and a just a few minutes time. It is as simple as taking off a few screws and a plastic cover and having a peek. Good luck.

 

[armos]

I don't know anything about Volvos but this looks like a great car. Galvanized steel? That's awesome, I've heard of people getting old frames galvanized but I had no idea Volvo does that from the factory.

I agree with the urgency of replacing the timing belt. But in the meantime, if you must put it off, try to be easy on it. Don't drive it thousands of miles and be easy on the engine, to minimize the chance the belt gives up.
We had an overdue belt break on a Chrysler a few years ago, it let go in highway cruising on an uphill grade. Don't go 80, slow down a bit and be gentle. You just don't know how close it might be to breaking. The safest thing would be to park the car until you can get it done. And of course make sure it gets done by a shop that has a good rep with Volvos, that's too critical a job to risk them screwing it up or using substandard parts.

I've never seen wipers on a car's headlights before. That's kind of hilarious, but they blend in so well I guess they're out there, I just never noticed.

 

[eljefino]

This timing belt was on my 93 volvo 940. I mulled it over and decided to get it done.

 

[hemitom]

Best days have passed this belt by, how many miles ?

 

[GearheadTool]

Originally Posted By: hemitom
Best days have passed this belt by, how many miles ?


Right about 26,000.

The more I think about it, the more I wonder if going to Sam's and explaining that this timing belt is a ticking bomb and that the ABS sensor needs looked at (light on, off, made it accelerate all screwed up twice) for ~$1000 would be do-able. This car.. It runs well, yes, but its becoming clear that these things NEED to be done.

I got a video of the engine running, if anyone wants to see.

 

[JOD]

Originally Posted By: eljefino
This timing belt was on my 93 volvo 940. I mulled it over and decided to get it done.



yeah, but your B230 isn't an interference engine (just like most redblocks). Embarrassed to say, I let my 740 wagon go until it broke, just because I was lazy. All whiteblock engines are interference engines, so it's a whole different deal.

 

[Stanley Rockafeller]

Originally Posted By: JOD
Originally Posted By: eljefino
This timing belt was on my 93 volvo 940. I mulled it over and decided to get it done.



yeah, but your B230 isn't an interference engine (just like most redblocks). Embarrassed to say, I let my 740 wagon go until it broke, just because I was lazy. All whiteblock engines are interference engines, so it's a whole different deal.


Ya see, and that's the problem with post 95 Volvo's. Everyone thinks that they are the same old relable steeds they used to be, where if anything breaks, it's a simple repair to get it going again and this is simply not the case at all! Then they blame Ford for corrupting Volvo and turning them sour.

My dad had a timing belt snap on his 81 245DL with a B21A. All that happend was the car rolled to the side of the road, he had it towed to his repair shop where they replaced the belt and he was back on the road the same day.

I guess this poses the question of "why doesn't Volvo make cars like they used to?"

Actually, Volvo was one of the last auto affordable and reliable euro manufactuers to start mainstreaming their cars to FWD. Before this the marketplace was filled with far more fuel efficient, lighter and advanced vehicles. They were forced to because the market simply forced them to become mroe competitive. Only once they introduced the 850 to the NA market in 93, did they FINALLY start competing against some of the more mainstream cars. The only downside is that they lost some of their essence of what being a Volvo is all about (quirky lines, awkward boxy designs etc.).

I loved them as a kid and understand what it takes to maintain one lovingly as I have been able to keep my 24 YO e30 in factory shape. Honestly, as I'm getting older, the need to row my own gears is kinda fading away. Will I get back to a pipe-and-slippers Volvo? I dunno ..it sure is tempting, esp. with the low resale price of them. For a cruiser or commuter they certainly are attractive.

But then again, the North Americans are also turning out some outstanding products with lower purchase prices and cheaper maint. costs too(i.e. late model Buicks, Caddy's etc.).

 

[armos]

Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
the ABS sensor needs looked at (light on, off, made it accelerate all screwed up twice)

Sounds like traction control is getting confused by the bad wheel sensor. You can probably work around that by turning the traction control off.

 

[sleddriver]

Quote:
I was tasked with buying a luxiry vehicle with next to no money....

So this isn't your car? Your friend paid for it? It's her car?

Quote:
It has only acted up twice but its supposed to act up zero times, the "wont accelerate right" issue was the strangest


Dude...put the red bull down, chill, breathe and take a powder. You're all over the map. Ping-ponging off the walls, the floor, the ceiling, much less the table.

That year Volvo has a drive-by-wire throttle. There was a major recall on these years ago. You need to be sure yours (hers?) was updated.

Don't put anything in the gas tank except BG 44K or RL Si-1. Moly in the oil? Give me a break. . . from your many posts it's obvious you don't have a clue what you've bought.

Live & Learn. . . . hope your friend....nah...never mind.