Hello. I'm about to do my second oil change on my 2011 Subaru WRX. I have a few modifications - intake, turbo-back exhaust, and corresponding engine management (Cobb AccessPORT). I drive the car everyday. I have about 50 miles round-trip to work. I live in Georgia and won't see very cold temperatures in the winter, but it regularly gets near (or above) 100 degrees F in the summer. I used Mobil 1 5w-30 in my 2008 WRX with no issues, and that's what I used for my first oil change for the new car. Does anyone have any recommendations for something better? Also, I've been running OEM Subaru oil filters for years. I have no issues paying more money for something like Royal Purple or Redline, as long as it's worth it. Thanks for any help!
2011 Subaru WRX oil change
- Thread starter hockeyfan19
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Alot of guys run Rotella T6 5w40 in their WRX's with great results, they will chime in here shortly
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gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
Did you end up going with Cobb's intake or AEM's? Which TBE?
What oil change interval are you planning to run?
I'll second the Rotella T6 5W-40 recommendation. I was able to run it out to 6860 miles, but it was pretty much done at that point. If you plan to run it past 4-5k, then make sure to send off a sample for analysis.
What oil change interval are you planning to run?
I'll second the Rotella T6 5W-40 recommendation. I was able to run it out to 6860 miles, but it was pretty much done at that point. If you plan to run it past 4-5k, then make sure to send off a sample for analysis.
I have Cobb's SF intake installed. I also have an Agency Power cat-less downpipe and Invidia Q300 exhaust. Even though it wasn't really necessary, I've always changed my oil at 3000 miles. Although after much reading, I'm more comfortable taking it to 4000+. I've never ran Rotella, but have heard great things. Does it hold up well with hard driving? I tend to drive fairly hard, and enjoy the occasional track day.
If it's still under warranty, go with 5w-30 every 3750 miles.
If not, then a 40-grade every 4k should be fine.
OEM filters are fine-lots of paranoia when they first went to the "blue" filter (I remember a mega-thread on rs25.com about that), but so far I can't remember reading about a fatality related to them.
Royal Purple and Redline? Yes, if you enjoy spending money
If you read NASIOC at all, they will make you believe that Mobil 5w-30 will make your bearings go to pieces. What I remember myself after going to Rotella is that my valve-train became a LOT quieter.
If not, then a 40-grade every 4k should be fine.
OEM filters are fine-lots of paranoia when they first went to the "blue" filter (I remember a mega-thread on rs25.com about that), but so far I can't remember reading about a fatality related to them.
Royal Purple and Redline? Yes, if you enjoy spending money
If you read NASIOC at all, they will make you believe that Mobil 5w-30 will make your bearings go to pieces. What I remember myself after going to Rotella is that my valve-train became a LOT quieter.
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted By: hockeyfan19
I have Cobb's SF intake installed. I also have an Agency Power cat-less downpipe and Invidia Q300 exhaust. Even though it wasn't really necessary, I've always changed my oil at 3000 miles. Although after much reading, I'm more comfortable taking it to 4000+. I've never ran Rotella, but have heard great things. Does it hold up well with hard driving? I tend to drive fairly hard, and enjoy the occasional track day.
With the catless downpipe (DP,) make sure to monitor boost levels and LOG, LOG, LOG! If you notice any boost exceeding 17 psig max, or it doesn't taper down to 14 psig near redline, then you need to reflash to the Low Waste Gate (LWG) map. Also keep an eye on knock (feedback knock and fine learning knock,) long-term fuel trims (A/F Learning 1 is what Cobb calls it,) and your dynamic advances. If you have any other questions, I'd be happy to elaborate.
If you have a laptop, then I'd highly recommend downloading Cobb's AccessTUNER Race. It allows you to log more parameters and at a higher resolution than the AP dongle.
I would not run Mobil 1 (M1 for short) in either the EJ257 nor your EJ255. I'd stay away from resource conserving oils altogether if I were you. It would be a (slightly) different story were you the type who babies his turbo Subie, driving mostly highway miles and never at WOT to redline. With track days in your future, however, something like T6 would fit the bill quite nicely.
As you can see in my signature, I'm running Amsoil SSO 0W-30 and it doesn't appear to be holding up much better than Rotella T6 did. I bought 10 qts of SSO off a member here on BITOG, so this next run will be my second and last. Since the last run was mostly over the looooong, cold winter, and this one was all through the summer, I'm hoping the used oil analysis (UOA) turns out better.
I planned to go with something more exotic than even Amsoil (Renewable Lubes,) but bought another 10 qts of Amsoil's Euro 5W-30 formula, so that will be my oil for the next year. If it doesn't show well, I may give up boutique oils altogether, stop sending off samples for analysis, and simply run Rotella T6 for 4-5k intervals, which is seems it can very easily do.
Originally Posted By: Xstang
If it's still under warranty, go with 5w-30 every 3750 miles.
If not, then a 40-grade every 4k should be fine.
OEM filters are fine-lots of paranoia when they first went to the "blue" filter (I remember a mega-thread on rs25.com about that), but so far I can't remember reading about a fatality related to them.
Royal Purple and Redline? Yes, if you enjoy spending money
If you read NASIOC at all, they will make you believe that Mobil 5w-30 will make your bearings go to pieces. What I remember myself after going to Rotella is that my valve-train became a LOT quieter.
For warranty purposes, SOA would have you believe that 2011+ turbos, while using synthetic, much change their oil at least every 7,500 miles or 7.5 months; however, I would not recommend this, even using something as stout as T6 until you confirm it with a UOA.
4-5k without an UOA should also be fine, but you can't go wrong with 3,750 miles if you take the car to the track or REALLY beat the heck out of 'er.
I personally use the OEM Blue Honeywell oil filers. Even at more than 7,500 miles, the cut-open filter looked great.
I have Cobb's SF intake installed. I also have an Agency Power cat-less downpipe and Invidia Q300 exhaust. Even though it wasn't really necessary, I've always changed my oil at 3000 miles. Although after much reading, I'm more comfortable taking it to 4000+. I've never ran Rotella, but have heard great things. Does it hold up well with hard driving? I tend to drive fairly hard, and enjoy the occasional track day.
With the catless downpipe (DP,) make sure to monitor boost levels and LOG, LOG, LOG! If you notice any boost exceeding 17 psig max, or it doesn't taper down to 14 psig near redline, then you need to reflash to the Low Waste Gate (LWG) map. Also keep an eye on knock (feedback knock and fine learning knock,) long-term fuel trims (A/F Learning 1 is what Cobb calls it,) and your dynamic advances. If you have any other questions, I'd be happy to elaborate.
If you have a laptop, then I'd highly recommend downloading Cobb's AccessTUNER Race. It allows you to log more parameters and at a higher resolution than the AP dongle.
I would not run Mobil 1 (M1 for short) in either the EJ257 nor your EJ255. I'd stay away from resource conserving oils altogether if I were you. It would be a (slightly) different story were you the type who babies his turbo Subie, driving mostly highway miles and never at WOT to redline. With track days in your future, however, something like T6 would fit the bill quite nicely.
As you can see in my signature, I'm running Amsoil SSO 0W-30 and it doesn't appear to be holding up much better than Rotella T6 did. I bought 10 qts of SSO off a member here on BITOG, so this next run will be my second and last. Since the last run was mostly over the looooong, cold winter, and this one was all through the summer, I'm hoping the used oil analysis (UOA) turns out better.
I planned to go with something more exotic than even Amsoil (Renewable Lubes,) but bought another 10 qts of Amsoil's Euro 5W-30 formula, so that will be my oil for the next year. If it doesn't show well, I may give up boutique oils altogether, stop sending off samples for analysis, and simply run Rotella T6 for 4-5k intervals, which is seems it can very easily do.
Originally Posted By: Xstang
If it's still under warranty, go with 5w-30 every 3750 miles.
If not, then a 40-grade every 4k should be fine.
OEM filters are fine-lots of paranoia when they first went to the "blue" filter (I remember a mega-thread on rs25.com about that), but so far I can't remember reading about a fatality related to them.
Royal Purple and Redline? Yes, if you enjoy spending money
If you read NASIOC at all, they will make you believe that Mobil 5w-30 will make your bearings go to pieces. What I remember myself after going to Rotella is that my valve-train became a LOT quieter.
For warranty purposes, SOA would have you believe that 2011+ turbos, while using synthetic, much change their oil at least every 7,500 miles or 7.5 months; however, I would not recommend this, even using something as stout as T6 until you confirm it with a UOA.
4-5k without an UOA should also be fine, but you can't go wrong with 3,750 miles if you take the car to the track or REALLY beat the heck out of 'er.
I personally use the OEM Blue Honeywell oil filers. Even at more than 7,500 miles, the cut-open filter looked great.
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^ What Matt said, except for staying away from Mobil1 outright (if that's what you mean). I would run anything without the Energy/Resource Conserving logo since you're not concerned about the warranty with your mods (owner's manual addendum only mentions 5W-30).
While there have been a couple of occasional random uoa's on Energy Conserving oils in Subaru turbos that showed good results, it's tough to find consecutive runs on them because folks usually abandon them for more robust oils.
-Dennis
While there have been a couple of occasional random uoa's on Energy Conserving oils in Subaru turbos that showed good results, it's tough to find consecutive runs on them because folks usually abandon them for more robust oils.
-Dennis
Amsoil SSO 0W-30 is no heavier than M1 5W-30, both have similar VI's and HTHSV of 3.1cP. Rotella T6 5W-40 is way heavier with it's HTHSV of 4.0cP.
The only reason for running a heavier than spec' oil is if you're seeing much higher oil temp's than Subaru expects resulting in low oil pressure.
If you don't have an OP gauge install one, that's the only way to properly fine tune your oil viscosity selection to your application.
On the off chance you do need a heavier oil, and it would only be for track use, I'd consider M1 0W-40 (185 VI, 3.8cP HTHSV)long before Rotella T6.
The only reason for running a heavier than spec' oil is if you're seeing much higher oil temp's than Subaru expects resulting in low oil pressure.
If you don't have an OP gauge install one, that's the only way to properly fine tune your oil viscosity selection to your application.
On the off chance you do need a heavier oil, and it would only be for track use, I'd consider M1 0W-40 (185 VI, 3.8cP HTHSV)long before Rotella T6.
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted By: bluesubie
^ What Matt said, except for staying away from Mobil1 outright (if that's what you mean). I would run anything without the Energy/Resource Conserving logo since you're not concerned about the warranty with your mods (owner's manual addendum only mentions 5W-30).
While there have been a couple of occasional random uoa's on Energy Conserving oils in Subaru turbos that showed good results, it's tough to find consecutive runs on them because folks usually abandon them for more robust oils.
-Dennis
As per tradition, thanks for the catch. I most certainly did not mean to imply all M1 oils are created equal, let alone equally bad.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Amsoil SSO 0W-30 is no heavier than M1 5W-30, both have similar VI's and HTHSV of 3.1cP. Rotella T6 5W-40 is way heavier with it's HTHSV of 4.0cP.
The only reason for running a heavier than spec' oil is if you're seeing much higher oil temp's than Subaru expects resulting in low oil pressure.
If you don't have an OP gauge install one, that's the only way to properly fine tune your oil viscosity selection to your application.
On the off chance you do need a heavier oil, and it would only be for track use, I'd consider M1 0W-40 (185 VI, 3.8cP HTHSV)long before Rotella T6.
Just as with BITOGER's, us turbo Subieers tend to ally ourselves with the current oil/mod brand of the year, and some times the trend lasts for longer (RTS and T6 have been highly recommended and a fan favorite for a while now; I'd guess most like it or use it simply based on word of mouth or word of forum, as it were.)
In the same regard, we also ally against other oils/ mod brands for the same reasons. With a mod brand, it makes sense. A few posts with broken parts and people rightly shy away. With respect to resource conserving oils such as M1 5W-30, it's more than likely that its negative image is statistical more so than any actual problem with the oil itself. Mobil is a very popular oil and seen by most who don't know anything about oil as THE creme de la creme of all synthetic oils. So, if more people tend toward M1, then the percentage of failures while running M1 would be higher, right?
Group III/III+/IV/V mean nothing to most people, so they stick with what's familiar. So, IMO, automatically tying a spun bearing or other "oil-related" failure to the use of M1 5W-30 is easy. The unknown is always there, though, and we'll never know whether using a thicker, stouter oil would have prevented the "oil-related" failure, or whether nothing would prevent the "oil-related-failure-causing" over-rev (insert any other user error for "oil-related" failure and you'll understand my point.)
With all of that being said, I'd rather stick with an oil like T6 that will stay in grade for long intervals that include lots of boost (stock STI boost is 14.7#, upped to 18# with a tune) and longer winters that cause excessive fuel dilution (turbo Subies, especially those running aftermarket tunes, are known for their fuel dilution.) I'd also put my money on Amsoil staying in grade , especially over longer intervals, compared to M1 5W-30 or any other resource conserving 5W-30 that wasn't PAO or Ester-based.
^ What Matt said, except for staying away from Mobil1 outright (if that's what you mean). I would run anything without the Energy/Resource Conserving logo since you're not concerned about the warranty with your mods (owner's manual addendum only mentions 5W-30).
While there have been a couple of occasional random uoa's on Energy Conserving oils in Subaru turbos that showed good results, it's tough to find consecutive runs on them because folks usually abandon them for more robust oils.
-Dennis
As per tradition, thanks for the catch. I most certainly did not mean to imply all M1 oils are created equal, let alone equally bad.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Amsoil SSO 0W-30 is no heavier than M1 5W-30, both have similar VI's and HTHSV of 3.1cP. Rotella T6 5W-40 is way heavier with it's HTHSV of 4.0cP.
The only reason for running a heavier than spec' oil is if you're seeing much higher oil temp's than Subaru expects resulting in low oil pressure.
If you don't have an OP gauge install one, that's the only way to properly fine tune your oil viscosity selection to your application.
On the off chance you do need a heavier oil, and it would only be for track use, I'd consider M1 0W-40 (185 VI, 3.8cP HTHSV)long before Rotella T6.
Just as with BITOGER's, us turbo Subieers tend to ally ourselves with the current oil/mod brand of the year, and some times the trend lasts for longer (RTS and T6 have been highly recommended and a fan favorite for a while now; I'd guess most like it or use it simply based on word of mouth or word of forum, as it were.)
In the same regard, we also ally against other oils/ mod brands for the same reasons. With a mod brand, it makes sense. A few posts with broken parts and people rightly shy away. With respect to resource conserving oils such as M1 5W-30, it's more than likely that its negative image is statistical more so than any actual problem with the oil itself. Mobil is a very popular oil and seen by most who don't know anything about oil as THE creme de la creme of all synthetic oils. So, if more people tend toward M1, then the percentage of failures while running M1 would be higher, right?
Group III/III+/IV/V mean nothing to most people, so they stick with what's familiar. So, IMO, automatically tying a spun bearing or other "oil-related" failure to the use of M1 5W-30 is easy. The unknown is always there, though, and we'll never know whether using a thicker, stouter oil would have prevented the "oil-related" failure, or whether nothing would prevent the "oil-related-failure-causing" over-rev (insert any other user error for "oil-related" failure and you'll understand my point.)
With all of that being said, I'd rather stick with an oil like T6 that will stay in grade for long intervals that include lots of boost (stock STI boost is 14.7#, upped to 18# with a tune) and longer winters that cause excessive fuel dilution (turbo Subies, especially those running aftermarket tunes, are known for their fuel dilution.) I'd also put my money on Amsoil staying in grade , especially over longer intervals, compared to M1 5W-30 or any other resource conserving 5W-30 that wasn't PAO or Ester-based.
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Originally Posted By: gathermewool
Originally Posted By: bluesubie
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Just as with BITOGER's, us turbo Subieers tend to ally ourselves with the current oil/mod brand of the year, and some times the trend lasts for longer (RTS and T6 have been highly recommended and a fan favorite for a while now; I'd guess most like it or use it simply based on word of mouth or word of forum, as it were.)
I'd rather stick with an oil like T6 that will stay in grade for long intervals that include lots of boost (stock STI boost is 14.7#, upped to 18# with a tune) and longer winters that cause excessive fuel dilution (turbo Subies, especially those running aftermarket tunes, are known for their fuel dilution.) I'd also put my money on Amsoil staying in grade , especially over longer intervals, compared to M1 5W-30 or any other resource conserving 5W-30 that wasn't PAO or Ester-based.
The assumption, even if it's true that Amsoil 0W-30 is a better choice to M1 5W-30 because it won't shear I have no problem with. My point is that it is a light (HTHSV 3.1cP) 30wt oil. If it does the job; i.e., provides adequate oil pressure, then there is absolutely no need to run a massively heavier oil like the T6 5W-40 (HTHSV 4.0cP). The resulting OP will be much higher than optimum with the oil pump being in by-pass mode much of the time.
If the Amsoil 0W-30 was a bit light then the logical solution is a slightly heavier oil, substitute a quart or two of Amsoil Euro 5W-40 or perhaps RL 0W-30 (HTHSV 3.2cP). The reason I suggested M1 0W-40 is that although it's HTHSV of 3.8cP is undoubtedly higher than necessary it's 185 VI means it's not dramatically heavier on start-up vs the spec' light 30wt oil.
But I do take your point on how certain oils wind up getting recommended in certain circles. I'm sure T6 is not a bad choice in a severely modified Subie being tracked at Willow Springs with ambient temp's of 110F, but that's that doesn't mean it is even a remotely good choice for most other Subie applications.
Get back to basics, rely on the spec' grade as a starting point and go from there making your viscosity decision based on oil temperature and oil pressure. There is an optimum operational viscosity to aim for and everyone who tracks their car should know what that is but very few do.
Originally Posted By: bluesubie
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Just as with BITOGER's, us turbo Subieers tend to ally ourselves with the current oil/mod brand of the year, and some times the trend lasts for longer (RTS and T6 have been highly recommended and a fan favorite for a while now; I'd guess most like it or use it simply based on word of mouth or word of forum, as it were.)
I'd rather stick with an oil like T6 that will stay in grade for long intervals that include lots of boost (stock STI boost is 14.7#, upped to 18# with a tune) and longer winters that cause excessive fuel dilution (turbo Subies, especially those running aftermarket tunes, are known for their fuel dilution.) I'd also put my money on Amsoil staying in grade , especially over longer intervals, compared to M1 5W-30 or any other resource conserving 5W-30 that wasn't PAO or Ester-based.
The assumption, even if it's true that Amsoil 0W-30 is a better choice to M1 5W-30 because it won't shear I have no problem with. My point is that it is a light (HTHSV 3.1cP) 30wt oil. If it does the job; i.e., provides adequate oil pressure, then there is absolutely no need to run a massively heavier oil like the T6 5W-40 (HTHSV 4.0cP). The resulting OP will be much higher than optimum with the oil pump being in by-pass mode much of the time.
If the Amsoil 0W-30 was a bit light then the logical solution is a slightly heavier oil, substitute a quart or two of Amsoil Euro 5W-40 or perhaps RL 0W-30 (HTHSV 3.2cP). The reason I suggested M1 0W-40 is that although it's HTHSV of 3.8cP is undoubtedly higher than necessary it's 185 VI means it's not dramatically heavier on start-up vs the spec' light 30wt oil.
But I do take your point on how certain oils wind up getting recommended in certain circles. I'm sure T6 is not a bad choice in a severely modified Subie being tracked at Willow Springs with ambient temp's of 110F, but that's that doesn't mean it is even a remotely good choice for most other Subie applications.
Get back to basics, rely on the spec' grade as a starting point and go from there making your viscosity decision based on oil temperature and oil pressure. There is an optimum operational viscosity to aim for and everyone who tracks their car should know what that is but very few do.
I actually emailed Mobil1 and they also recommended 0W-40 for my application. I think it's even a tougher choice for a 2011 owner since the owner's manual addendum only refers to 5W-30 oil, even though SoA said 10W-40 was ok down to -4F at the beginning of the Model Year.
CATERHAM - I do think it's interesting that you recommend a viscosity based soley on oil pressure alone. Do you think OP is the be all and end all measurement in decidIng the best viscosity? Does OP vary in cases of temporary oil shear which occurs as the oil moves through the engine (especially if there is boundary lubrication)? Do you feel that the film strength will always be sufficient as long as op is good? Keepig in mind that the original poster has a modified 4 cyl turbo with a 5 qt sump pumping out around 300(?) bhp.
Just curious.
-Dennis
CATERHAM - I do think it's interesting that you recommend a viscosity based soley on oil pressure alone. Do you think OP is the be all and end all measurement in decidIng the best viscosity? Does OP vary in cases of temporary oil shear which occurs as the oil moves through the engine (especially if there is boundary lubrication)? Do you feel that the film strength will always be sufficient as long as op is good? Keepig in mind that the original poster has a modified 4 cyl turbo with a 5 qt sump pumping out around 300(?) bhp.
Just curious.
-Dennis
Yes oil pressure is the botton line, or more specifically the reading you get on an OP gauge which actually measures oil back pressure. And since OP correlates with HTHSV an OP gauge is effectively a viscometer.
Anything that affects an oils viscosity such as heat, oil shear and fuel dilution will be immediately reflected in the OP reading. The key is to establish what the minimum optimum hot OP is at elevated rev's and that can be sourced from Subaru. That will be in effect your minimum operational viscosity.
It's interesting that Mobil recommends their 0W-40 for you're application. For the reasons I mentioned earlier it's hard to find fault with this oil and it will provide all the high temperature viscosity protection you'll ever need and then some.
It also contains 900 ppm of phosphorus and some moly for the boundary lubrication you made reference to.
Anything that affects an oils viscosity such as heat, oil shear and fuel dilution will be immediately reflected in the OP reading. The key is to establish what the minimum optimum hot OP is at elevated rev's and that can be sourced from Subaru. That will be in effect your minimum operational viscosity.
It's interesting that Mobil recommends their 0W-40 for you're application. For the reasons I mentioned earlier it's hard to find fault with this oil and it will provide all the high temperature viscosity protection you'll ever need and then some.
It also contains 900 ppm of phosphorus and some moly for the boundary lubrication you made reference to.
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted By: JRed
Oil: Rotella T6 or Mobil 1 0w-40
Filter*: Subaru OEM or Purolator PureOne
It's really that simple.
Really.
Shush, you!
Oil: Rotella T6 or Mobil 1 0w-40
Filter*: Subaru OEM or Purolator PureOne
It's really that simple.
Really.
Shush, you!
I was surprised that TBN was only 1.99 after my 6k run on M1 0W-40.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2017688
-Dennis
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2017688
-Dennis
Originally Posted By: JRed
Oil: Rotella T6 or Mobil 1 0w-40
T6 is 25% heavier than M1 0W-40 at room temperature, 35% heavier at 32F and progressively more at sub-freezing temp's.
Oil: Rotella T6 or Mobil 1 0w-40
T6 is 25% heavier than M1 0W-40 at room temperature, 35% heavier at 32F and progressively more at sub-freezing temp's.
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
Originally Posted By: JRed
Oil Mobil 1 0w-40
It's really that simple.
Really.
Shush, you!
But you want to run Amsoil Euro 5W-30 next?
That oil is really a 40wt oil with it's HTHSV of 3.7cP and due to it's low 159 VI is actually heavier at 32F than Amsoil's Euro 5W-40.
Compared to MI 0W-40 (dispite it's higher HTHSV of 3.8cP) it's 10% heavier at room temperature, 25% at 32F and even more so at sub-freezing temp's.
Sorry, for the comparison but it really is hard to better M1 0W-40 even with a heavy 30wt.
Originally Posted By: JRed
Oil Mobil 1 0w-40
It's really that simple.
Really.
Shush, you!
But you want to run Amsoil Euro 5W-30 next?
That oil is really a 40wt oil with it's HTHSV of 3.7cP and due to it's low 159 VI is actually heavier at 32F than Amsoil's Euro 5W-40.
Compared to MI 0W-40 (dispite it's higher HTHSV of 3.8cP) it's 10% heavier at room temperature, 25% at 32F and even more so at sub-freezing temp's.
Sorry, for the comparison but it really is hard to better M1 0W-40 even with a heavy 30wt.
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
Originally Posted By: JRed
Oil Mobil 1 0w-40
It's really that simple.
Really.
Shush, you!
But you want to run Amsoil Euro 5W-30 next?
That oil is really a 40wt oil with it's HTHSV of 3.7cP and due to it's low 159 VI is actually heavier at 32F than Amsoil's Euro 5W-40.
Compared to MI 0W-40 (dispite it's higher HTHSV of 3.8cP) it's 10% heavier at room temperature, 25% at 32F and even more so at sub-freezing temp's.
Sorry, for the comparison but it really is hard to better M1 0W-40 even with a heavy 30wt.
I got 10 qts of it for relatively cheap from a member here on BITOG. Besides, I haven't seen a single turbo Subie UOA on this oil, the Amsoil Euro. Also, M1 0W-40 is an oil I'd like to try, but, based on UOA like those from bluesubie, it doesn't appear to hold up VERY well to longer intervals. I have a similar commute, but also do a lot of highway driving on the weekends, so it'll be interesting to see which oil does best.
Again, I do plan to run M1 0W-40 at some point, at least twice (I won't run it longer than 5k for the first run,) and maybe longer if it shows well. With oil change specials, it will definitely be a good deal if I can get 6,500 miles+ out of it.
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
Originally Posted By: JRed
Oil Mobil 1 0w-40
It's really that simple.
Really.
Shush, you!
But you want to run Amsoil Euro 5W-30 next?
That oil is really a 40wt oil with it's HTHSV of 3.7cP and due to it's low 159 VI is actually heavier at 32F than Amsoil's Euro 5W-40.
Compared to MI 0W-40 (dispite it's higher HTHSV of 3.8cP) it's 10% heavier at room temperature, 25% at 32F and even more so at sub-freezing temp's.
Sorry, for the comparison but it really is hard to better M1 0W-40 even with a heavy 30wt.
I got 10 qts of it for relatively cheap from a member here on BITOG. Besides, I haven't seen a single turbo Subie UOA on this oil, the Amsoil Euro. Also, M1 0W-40 is an oil I'd like to try, but, based on UOA like those from bluesubie, it doesn't appear to hold up VERY well to longer intervals. I have a similar commute, but also do a lot of highway driving on the weekends, so it'll be interesting to see which oil does best.
Again, I do plan to run M1 0W-40 at some point, at least twice (I won't run it longer than 5k for the first run,) and maybe longer if it shows well. With oil change specials, it will definitely be a good deal if I can get 6,500 miles+ out of it.
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wool - It will be interesting to see how the TBN does on Amsoil Euro given it is only 5.8. Hopefully, it will retain it well instead of dropping like a rock. The X-clean I'm running starts at 7.4, but I doubt I will run it my usual 6k miles since I just had a valve cover gasket replaced.
-Dennis
-Dennis
Originally Posted By: bluesubie
wool - It will be interesting to see how the TBN does on Amsoil Euro given it is only 5.8. Hopefully, it will retain it well instead of dropping like a rock. The X-clean I'm running starts at 7.4, but I doubt I will run it my usual 6k miles since I just had a valve cover gasket replaced.
-Dennis
Isn't the Amsoil Euro (even the 5W-30) considered/marketed as an extended drain oil??
If so, it had better retain ALL of that 5.8 TBN!!
wool - It will be interesting to see how the TBN does on Amsoil Euro given it is only 5.8. Hopefully, it will retain it well instead of dropping like a rock. The X-clean I'm running starts at 7.4, but I doubt I will run it my usual 6k miles since I just had a valve cover gasket replaced.
-Dennis
Isn't the Amsoil Euro (even the 5W-30) considered/marketed as an extended drain oil??
If so, it had better retain ALL of that 5.8 TBN!!
- Status
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