I had a 1998 ranger with the 3.0L V-6, and I used 5w30 M1 the entire time I had it. I started using M1 after 800 miles on its factory fill. And I had the Ranger for 6 years and 120K miles never a problem. My BIL has it now and it has 160K miles and never has had a problem. We live in Michigan, 4 true seasons.
What is better 10w30 or 5w30?
- Thread starter Timothy Ferguson
- Start date
- Status
Thats a good point if it thins out to 30wt any ways when hot what makes 10w30 so needed in hot weather? Other than it is more stable. But compare it to Mobil 1 does it really make a difference. They are both really great stable oils.
Use the 10W30 and worry about something else. The 10W30 will protect your engine exceptionally well, particularly in Georgia, and it will NOT cause any premature wear or harm to your vehicle.
Life's too short to obsess over 5W30 vs. 10W30 (for too long).
[flame suit on!]
Life's too short to obsess over 5W30 vs. 10W30 (for too long).
[flame suit on!]
Yeah but the conversation has gone on for so long I would hate to stop it now i have learned so much.
OK! Heres my argument. I also own a 2004 Mazda MPV that requires 5w20. It would be alright to use 10w30 since it is good and such a needed oil in the south? Why not make 10w20?
Right you are Vic,let's not obsess here,I say go with 0w30..quote:
Originally posted by AstroVic:
Use the 10W30 and worry about something else. The 10W30 will protect your engine exceptionally well, particularly in Georgia, and it will NOT cause any premature wear or harm to your vehicle.
Life's too short to obsess over 5W30 vs. 10W30 (for too long).
[flame suit on!]
How cold does it get in GA? Might be could use straight 30.
I'm going to be running one quart straight 30 with 5.5 qts 10w30 in my motorhome. Figure the straight 30 will thicken up the base oil a bit. A mix of maybe 1:3 straight 30 to 10w30 might even get you a 15w30!
Mixing is fun.
Mixing is fun.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,799
They do in dinos. They're all the HDEO's that are rated 10w. They are 20 weights that meet the 10w spec. They don't have a HT/HS rating.
Interesting
I went round and round on this until [drum roll please] I decided that the temps here justified the more shear stable 10w-30 over 5w-30.quote:
Originally posted by AstroVic:
Use the 10W30 and worry about something else. The 10W30 will protect your engine exceptionally well, particularly in Georgia, and it will NOT cause any premature wear or harm to your vehicle.
Life's too short to obsess over 5W30 vs. 10W30 (for too long).
[flame suit on!]
I also figured out that the cold cranking viscosity of many 10w-30 synthetics was substantially lower that 5w-30 dino, so all that angst was simply a bunch of "commotion, public disorder or uproar"
Best of luck.
Bob W.
Search the boards for 5w-30 vs. 10w-30 arguments. I'm not going to rehash it here. Run whatever the **** ya want! 5w20 is a whole new can of worms in and of itself.quote:
Originally posted by Big John:
At operating temps are they both not 30 wt oils???? Yes there may be different additives to help with viscocity control or shear but if you used the same brand oil you are telling me that the 10w is better when the weather is hotter????Also,if some reccomend 5w to 60 f only what is 5w20 good to 45 f??????quote:
Originally posted by Drew99GT:
Well then, I guess that's why a lot of manufacturers list 10w-30 past 100 F, and 5w-30 to only 60FBogus?
Just be glad you're in Georgia. People in the Northeast and Canada are doing cold starts with 0w30s and 5w30s that are many times thicker (and, by argument, less shear stable at temp) than your cold starts with 5-or-10 w30. So mix up a mint julip and worry about something else.
We just got a 99 3.0 Ranger for my daughter, and I have been looking into this myself.
I think the owner's manual does say 5W30.
If you run through the oil grade selector at the new Mobil website it comes up 5W20.
It still has the oil the dealer installed, but eventually I will have to decide between 5W30 and 10W30. I don't know if it will ever get 5W20.
There was a special oil. Like everyone else, I'm sure if you run gasoline, not Ethanol, it's not a factor.
I think the owner's manual does say 5W30.
If you run through the oil grade selector at the new Mobil website it comes up 5W20.
It still has the oil the dealer installed, but eventually I will have to decide between 5W30 and 10W30. I don't know if it will ever get 5W20.
There was a special oil. Like everyone else, I'm sure if you run gasoline, not Ethanol, it's not a factor.
Timothy -
Here's a link to the Infineum SAE J300 Viscosity Chart
Gary's point will make more sense if you look at the cold temp requirement for a 10W viscosity and the 100C viscosity for SAE 20.
Here's a link to the Infineum SAE J300 Viscosity Chart
Gary's point will make more sense if you look at the cold temp requirement for a 10W viscosity and the 100C viscosity for SAE 20.
"So when cold I am essentially causing more engine damage using 10w30?"
If it was my truck, personally I'd just defer to the manual in this case (5w-30). But as far as temps go, a Google check quickly indicated that the Newnan, GA average low temp for January is 31F, not particularly cold. Chevron lists safe low end working temps of 0F and -13F for 10w-30 and 5w-30, respectively, with the Borderline Pumping Temps much lower than that. Either would do fine in winter there.
http://www.chevron.com/prodserv/nafl/auto/content/faq.shtm
But I think the old rule still applies: The broader the dino spread, the more polymers needed to get there, and polymers burn and shear. So the narrower the spread, the better (10w-30). (I thought I'd contradict myself just for fun.)
[ February 12, 2005, 01:39 AM: Message edited by: TC ]
If it was my truck, personally I'd just defer to the manual in this case (5w-30). But as far as temps go, a Google check quickly indicated that the Newnan, GA average low temp for January is 31F, not particularly cold. Chevron lists safe low end working temps of 0F and -13F for 10w-30 and 5w-30, respectively, with the Borderline Pumping Temps much lower than that. Either would do fine in winter there.
http://www.chevron.com/prodserv/nafl/auto/content/faq.shtm
But I think the old rule still applies: The broader the dino spread, the more polymers needed to get there, and polymers burn and shear. So the narrower the spread, the better (10w-30). (I thought I'd contradict myself just for fun.)
[ February 12, 2005, 01:39 AM: Message edited by: TC ]
VI improvers?
Like what? More esters? That's bad?
Following that logic, 10w-30 should be more shear stable than 0w-30.
An emerging thought on some other posts seems to be to pick the least viscous oil (for cold temp protection) that exhibits a high HT/HS (for hot temp protection). I'm only guessing that any 0W-30, 5W-20, 5W-30 with an HT/HS greater than, say, 3.2 (3.3. or above), would be dandy. Don't think there is any 0W-20 with an HT/HS of even 3.0.
A family member has this engine in his Ranger and the oil filler cap says 5W-20, but that was a 2002 model.
A family member has this engine in his Ranger and the oil filler cap says 5W-20, but that was a 2002 model.
- Status
Similar threads
