Yamaha Bolt XV950

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Hey Guys Been a big fan of this forum. I have a few questions, hoping the more knowledgeable people on this forum can give me some valuable insight. The motorcycle in question is a Yamaha Bolt. V Twin, Air Cooled and Fuel Injected. 1) The manual states oil ranges from 10w40 to 20w50 and all in between. I really want to try Mobil Delvac's synthetic oil, Delvac1, but that comes in only 5w40. Would that be safe? I live in a tropical climate. 2) We don't have Rotella where i am, but there is Rimula R4 and Helix by Shell. After reading on the internet, some say that it is a rebadged version for a different market, but some say that the formulations are different. Anyone have any feedback? 3) I'm currently running Yamalube 20w40 (factory oil was used for 934km, and then promptly changed at the dealer where they used a new OEM filter and Yamalube). Do you think my bike is still breaking in? I want to drop the Yamalube and fill up with Delvac 1300 Super/ Delvac 1, but not sure if that'd be a waste without changing the filter. Thoughts? 4) On the Yamaha Star Bolt Forums, some owners have reported that their motors showed "misting" of oil at the base gaskets and around the crank case cover (joints). They said that the misting happened when they used synthetic oil, and went away once they used conventional. Does synthetic oil cause misting? I'm keen on trying synthetic but worried about having this misting. 5) Dealership advised against using Synthetic at all in my motorcycle, claiming that the tolerances and passageways are "larger" and thus a conventional, thick oil is needed. synthetic is only for high revving precision bikes with small passages and tolerances such as sportsbikes. Does their claim hold any truth? 6) I'm really wanting to use a HDEO instead of motorcycle oil (example, 5 litres of a HDEO like Rimula or Delvac costs 27 dollars, but 5 litres of Amsoil 20w50 V Twin costs 102 dollars. go figure) does that make me crazy? been asking other forums and they make a big deal about HDEO's not having JASO-MA specifications. I've seen countless videos of HDEO used in motorcycles (one was an R1 with 100,000km on the clock) and these motorcycles all idled alot smoother and sounded really good. I was never really impressed with Yamalube 20w40. There's even a club in some neighboring countries called "HDEO Inside" and stuff, and these people use HDEO in everything. The Tappets and Valves on my bike can get pretty noisy sometimes, i'm wondering if a HDEO can cure it. 7) What is a suitable oil change interval for a "low revving" twin? I tend to have spirited rides and go fast at times (bad habit, i should just take it easy). Was planning on changing every 3,000km, but people are saying that is wasteful and it'd wear out the oil drain plug. Sorry for the wall of text, i just have alot of questions. Thanks in advance!
 
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1. The bolt is a shared sump system, so a 5w40 will experience sheer quickly. I would not use it the transmission will chew that into a 30 weight in short order. For a tropical climate I would run a 10w50, 15w50, or 20w50 2. I have no idea, someone else can chime in. 3. Change the filter....its cheap insurance 4. In the USA many synthetics come from the same source as conventional oils....crude, just in a more highly refined form (Group III). Since the Bolt is a modern air cooled mill, synthetic should not cause any issue. If someone noticed a difference between a synthetic and a conventional, it was likely due to some other variable. 5. The person you talked to at the dealer is not intelligent if they are spewing that advice. There is going to be little difference between a conventional and synthetic oil of the same grade in terms of viscosity. 6. You have an air cooled engine...they are always on the noisy side. If the tappets get quiet, you should get the valve clearances checked, they have likely become too tight. As for can you use a HDEO/Diesel Oil. Yes you can, but I would stick to 15w40 as it will sheer slower than the 5w40 or 10w40 grades. Some makers offer a 15w50 diesel oil, and that would be ideal. If you have Mobil 1 15w50 car oil in your location, that is also a well known oil that plays well in wet clutch situations. 7. If you are doing lots of short trips (5 to 10kms), you should change it more often (2,000 miles). If you go on extended rides, I would say 3,500 miles would be good with a conventional 15w40 HDEO.
 
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AMC

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Originally Posted By: FWR132
Hey Guys Been a big fan of this forum. I have a few questions, hoping the more knowledgeable people on this forum can give me some valuable insight. The motorcycle in question is a Yamaha Bolt. V Twin, Air Cooled and Fuel Injected. 1) The manual states oil ranges from 10w40 to 20w50 and all in between. I really want to try Mobil Delvac's synthetic oil, Delvac1, but that comes in only 5w40. Would that be safe? I live in a tropical climate. 2) We don't have Rotella where i am, but there is Rimula R4 and Helix by Shell. After reading on the internet, some say that it is a rebadged version for a different market, but some say that the formulations are different. Anyone have any feedback? 3) I'm currently running Yamalube 20w40 (factory oil was used for 934km, and then promptly changed at the dealer where they used a new OEM filter and Yamalube). Do you think my bike is still breaking in? I want to drop the Yamalube and fill up with Delvac 1300 Super/ Delvac 1, but not sure if that'd be a waste without changing the filter. Thoughts? 4) On the Yamaha Star Bolt Forums, some owners have reported that their motors showed "misting" of oil at the base gaskets and around the crank case cover (joints). They said that the misting happened when they used synthetic oil, and went away once they used conventional. Does synthetic oil cause misting? I'm keen on trying synthetic but worried about having this misting. 5) Dealership advised against using Synthetic at all in my motorcycle, claiming that the tolerances and passageways are "larger" and thus a conventional, thick oil is needed. synthetic is only for high revving precision bikes with small passages and tolerances such as sportsbikes. Does their claim hold any truth? 6) I'm really wanting to use a HDEO instead of motorcycle oil (example, 5 litres of a HDEO like Rimula or Delvac costs 27 dollars, but 5 litres of Amsoil 20w50 V Twin costs 102 dollars. go figure) does that make me crazy? been asking other forums and they make a big deal about HDEO's not having JASO-MA specifications. I've seen countless videos of HDEO used in motorcycles (one was an R1 with 100,000km on the clock) and these motorcycles all idled alot smoother and sounded really good. I was never really impressed with Yamalube 20w40. There's even a club in some neighboring countries called "HDEO Inside" and stuff, and these people use HDEO in everything. The Tappets and Valves on my bike can get pretty noisy sometimes, i'm wondering if a HDEO can cure it. 7) What is a suitable oil change interval for a "low revving" twin? I tend to have spirited rides and go fast at times (bad habit, i should just take it easy). Was planning on changing every 3,000km, but people are saying that is wasteful and it'd wear out the oil drain plug. Sorry for the wall of text, i just have alot of questions. Thanks in advance!
Welcome!!! Rob, you beat me to the punch! wink I will answer your questions in the order listed to keep things simple. 1. Your bike being air cooled and living in a tropical climate, I would not use a 5w-40. 5w-40's rely too much on viscosity modifiers to hold grade and it will never get cold enough where you live to need the improved cold flow that 5w-40 provides. I would use 15w-40, 15w-50 or 20w-50 only in your case. Chances are 15w-50 and 20w-50 are going to be harder to find and more expensive than 15w-40 but that just depends on the area you live in. 2. I have never heard of rimula oil and I don't know much about shell helix. There should be other options that would work better in your case. More on that later. 3. Yes your bike is still breaking in. I would do your next oil change at 2,000 km. I would go ahead and change the filter for that oil change also. As for the oil, I use HDEO's in my motorcycles and really like them. Most motorcycle specific oils are just HDEO's with the Moly taken out anyways. If your bike has separate engine and transmission oil, you do not have to worry about clutch slippage and that will give you much less to worry about when picking an engine oil. 4. While there is a lot of argument about it, one basic idea does hold true. Because synthetic is more refined than conventional oil, the molecules tend to be smaller and can in fact cause minor leaks and misting. I would not use synthetic with your bike, especially if it is a common complaint. 5. While your dealership's explanation was a little silly, I agree with their basic premise. There is no real reason to need or want synthetic for your engine. 6. I use and recommend HDEO's in my motorcycles and you can use them also. Just be aware that HDEO's will not have the Jaso-ma rating and could void your warranty if you care about that. Here in the united states, we have certain consumer protection rights that make warranty issues complicated and often hard for a manufacturer to deny us a warranty claim. Your country may or may not work like that so keep that in mind. That being said, almost any 15w-40 HDEO from a major manufacturer should work very well in your motorcycle. Examples include Delvac 1300, Delo 400, Shell Rotella, Gulf Pride 15w-40 ETC. I prefer Delvac 1300, Delo 400 and Shell Rotella out of those. 7. You should be able to follow whatever oil change interval your owner's manual recommends. If not, 3,000 miles (not sure what that equates to in KM) is a very safe interval for most motorcycles, especially if you ride hard. Welcome and Enjoy that machine!
 

FWR132

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You both are awesome. THANKS FOR YOUR ANSWERS! and thanks for taking the time to read through my wall of text! my bike currently has 2,100km+ at the moment. i changed the Yamalube out at 934km and have been riding around. I'm thinking of dumping the oil out and filling with Delvac (i believe i've seen it here...either Delvac 1300 or Delvac MX), but then again, i'm worried about reusing oil filters. (my manual says 2 oil changes for every 1 filter. what gives? i've never heard of that before.) See above snapshot. the weather here is about 30-40 deg celcius, and i was advised that XXw40 would be sufficient. Speaking of warranty, that's the thing, i'm keen on changing the oil on my own, since it seems simple enough. I doubt the dealer would be happy with me handing them HDEO for my bike. They'd just tell me to pay 18 dollars per quart of Yamalube, instead of using a 27 dollar 5 litre bottle of HDEO. 3,000 miles is about 4,800km. i'm so glad people say Delvac is great, because i think it's available locally! makes me that much happier. I've read about synthetics being superior with reducing engine temps, smoother shifting, longer life etc. But i'd be just as good changing the oil regularly using a HDEO right? I'll try to find a 15w50 Diesel HDEO oil. would love some. there's only Castrol GTX at the 20w50 weight here. that, or Amsoil V twin 20w50 for 22 dollars a quart! I'm usually away for work a few weeks a month. When i'm back home, i ride as much as i can, always! mix of town, highway, etc. I'm back home in 5 days and i really want to ride! Been lurking here, i've heard of the oil shearing quickly, especially with a shared sump. that got me worried, would a synthetic Amsoil type oil really last that long and not get sheared? they say something like double your regular interval! I've got about 1,100km on this Yamalube and i'm keen on dropping that oil and using a HDEO like Delvac smile EDIT thanks for being so kind and accommodating! my first time posting here and unlike most other forums, you guys were nice and didn't roast the [censored] outta me. on other forums, they'd just blast the new posters for no good reason. Trust me, i'm here to stay. BITOG is awesome smile
 
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pbm

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I'd use dino 20w50 in summer and dino 10w40 in winter and change it a little more frequently (over dedicated MC oil).
 
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Originally Posted By: FWR132
HDEO or dedicated M/C oil?
There are some automotive 20w50's like Valvoline VR1 that can be used in bikes, but I would steer clear of that idea given your bike is a wet clutch/shared sump system.
 
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So - according to google the climate is very consistent year round as Brunei is on the equator? It ranges from a low in the 70'sF to a typical high in the mid 80'sF the highest recorded temp is ~104F (40c). I personally would follow the manual recommendations while under warranty, I doubt it much matters what brand or if it is synthetic or not as long as it is the recommended grade and service classification per the manufacturer. Shell Advance AX3 Available? How about Mobil 1? Is ordering something from Amazon or other internet source an option? Keep in mind I'm not saying the HDEO is going to cause any problem, it is just that if you have a problem are you prepared to deal with the possible hassle and are there any laws in your country that might help you, or will the onus be on you to prove your oil did not cause the issue. 5000mi/12mth is Harley's recommendation - I'd say that is conservative, but it is a good guide line in absence of a Yamaha recommendation. If I were you, I would probably run the recommended oil at least a little bit longer to give any problems an opportunity to show up and then decide based upon the answers to the above questions.
 

FWR132

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Yup, Brunei is equatorial. We are facing thunderstorms now, there's a huge typhoon going from Phillipines to Japan, and we always face the "tail" of the typhoons. Thanks for your insight. I believe Shell Advance M/C oils were released here in April, though i don't know where they sell it! i'm home next week and i need to hunt down this oil, just to see how much it is per litre. If ordering oil online, there would be huge shipping costs if they come from America or anywhere else. will try and look around (i remember a gallon of Rotella t6 was 34usd, shipping to me was 76usd!) You're getting me worried now. haahaha, the Yamaha dealer here only gives a 6 month warranty. anything else we have to pay for. Yamaha recommends actually using one filter for every 2 oil changes, with each oil change being 10,000km. that's a bit stretched! Again, thanks. I'm still pondering what to do and how to go about it. FWIW, i knew a guy years ago here, said he had friends who used Diesel oil in their bikes (Rimula i believe?) said it made the engine sound quiet and all that. This guy in particular, had a Vstar 1300 that he barely cares for, and always joins "loudest pipe competitions" (where they idle the bike and rev it for minutes on end with their straight pipes). Until today, he still rides that same Vstar. Wondering if it's because of Diesel oil or the Yamaha design that has this bike seemingly "bulletproof". Yes, i didn't believe him at first, scoffing at the idea of HDEO diesel oil in a motorcycle...but after reading alot on this forum, i'm convinced it might be alright. As mentioned before, there's one bloke using Delvac 1300 in his new XSR900. Also, in Malaysia, there's a guy who races his R1 at Sepang and he uses HDEOs. Another guy has another R1 with 100,000km on the odo and he has been using Mobil Delvac MX. His bike is still going strong. If i can find a suitable M/C oil at a good price (ie. not 122 dollars for 5 litres), i might stick with that. hope i can find it. If not, i may try HDEO (I remember seeing Delvac here and i've read alot on the internet about it. seems good)
 
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I would not base your OCI on Harley. While the Bolt is similar to the Sportster in many ways, and is their competition....the Sportsters do not use a shared sump system. So the oil has it much easier in an 883/1200 Sporty versus the Bolt. I would stick to 3,000 mile with conventional as that transmission is going to be hard on the oil.
 
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Originally Posted By: Robenstein
I would not base your OCI on Harley. While the Bolt is similar to the Sportster in many ways, and is their competition....the Sportsters do not use a shared sump system. So the oil has it much easier in an 883/1200 Sporty versus the Bolt. I would stick to 3,000 mile with conventional as that transmission is going to be hard on the oil.
+1
 
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Originally Posted By: FWR132
You're getting me worried now. haahaha, the Yamaha dealer here only gives a 6 month warranty. anything else we have to pay for.
I would think engine wise 6 month would be long enough for any major problems to crop up, though warranty here is typically longer than that. So, basically you're free to choose what you wish without concern for warranty...
Originally Posted By: FWR132
Yamaha recommends actually using one filter for every 2 oil changes, with each oil change being 10,000km. that's a bit stretched!
So ~6200 miles is the Factory recommendation? (wonder if it is the same or similar in the US) IMO 3000 miles (3000km is way over the top) is a little over the top often in absence of a demonstrated need. If this bike is a shared sump then I'd be more careful about moly levels and "energy conserving"...
 

hpb

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"You're getting me worried now. haahaha, the Yamaha dealer here only gives a 6 month warranty. anything else we have to pay for." 6 months warranty on a brand new bike?? Wow, you're really getting screwed! Yamaha Bolts have a 5 year warranty here...
 
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Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
BTW - This climate seems well suited to a non-multigrade oil... assuming one is available...
I tend to agree. In 30-40°C, a monograde SAE40 would be brilliant.
 

FWR132

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Originally Posted By: Atesz792
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
BTW - This climate seems well suited to a non-multigrade oil... assuming one is available...
I tend to agree. In 30-40°C, a monograde SAE40 would be brilliant.
Hmm, would it be alright on startup? a monograde. not too thick? it's true that we never see cold weather here, just rain storms.
 

AMC

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Originally Posted By: FWR132
Originally Posted By: Atesz792
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
BTW - This climate seems well suited to a non-multigrade oil... assuming one is available...
I tend to agree. In 30-40°C, a monograde SAE40 would be brilliant.
Hmm, would it be alright on startup? a monograde. not too thick? it's true that we never see cold weather here, just rain storms.
While a monograde would work, I still wouldn't use it. Mono grades are pretty much obsolete and I am sure they don't get the reseach and development that any of the modern multi-grades get. I still think your best choices are an HDEO 15-40 if you want to save money. Most Yami engines are pretty easy on oil and this should be all you really need. HDEO's probably have a more robust additive package compared to motorcycle specific oils anyways. or 15 / 20w-50 if you really want the heaviest protection you can get.
 
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Originally Posted By: FWR132
Originally Posted By: Atesz792
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
BTW - This climate seems well suited to a non-multigrade oil... assuming one is available...
I tend to agree. In 30-40°C, a monograde SAE40 would be brilliant.
Hmm, would it be alright on startup? a monograde. not too thick? it's true that we never see cold weather here, just rain storms.
If you can get a 10w40 or 15w40 I see no reason to use a monograde oil. Way to many good multi grade oils to step back 50 years to straight weights.
 
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Originally Posted By: FWR132
Hey Guys Been a big fan of this forum. I have a few questions, hoping the more knowledgeable people on this forum can give me some valuable insight. The motorcycle in question is a Yamaha Bolt. V Twin, Air Cooled and Fuel Injected. 1) The manual states oil ranges from 10w40 to 20w50 and all in between. I really want to try Mobil Delvac's synthetic oil, Delvac1, but that comes in only 5w40. Would that be safe? I live in a tropical climate. ... 3) I'm currently running Yamalube 20w40 (factory oil was used for 934km, and then promptly changed at the dealer where they used a new OEM filter and Yamalube). Do you think my bike is still breaking in? I want to drop the Yamalube and fill up with Delvac 1300 Super/ Delvac 1, but not sure if that'd be a waste without changing the filter. Thoughts? ... ... 6) I'm really wanting to use a HDEO instead of motorcycle oil (example, 5 litres of a HDEO like Rimula or Delvac costs 27 dollars, but 5 litres of Amsoil 20w50 V Twin costs 102 dollars. go figure) does that make me crazy? been asking other forums and they make a big deal about HDEO's not having JASO-MA specifications. I've seen countless videos of HDEO used in motorcycles (one was an R1 with 100,000km on the clock) and these motorcycles all idled alot smoother and sounded really good. I was never really impressed with Yamalube 20w40. There's even a club in some neighboring countries called "HDEO Inside" and stuff, and these people use HDEO in everything. The Tappets and Valves on my bike can get pretty noisy sometimes, i'm wondering if a HDEO can cure it. 7) What is a suitable oil change interval for a "low revving" twin? I tend to have spirited rides and go fast at times (bad habit, i should just take it easy). Was planning on changing every 3,000km, but people are saying that is wasteful and it'd wear out the oil drain plug. Sorry for the wall of text, i just have alot of questions. Thanks in advance!
I think if you re-read your post, most of your questions are answered but here are my thoughts on the above. 1. Your manual calls for 10/40 & 20/50 and everything inbetween. = NO, I would not use a 5/40. There is a reason, it will shear fast and Yami knows it as well as almost ANY motorcycle maker. ... 3. If you want to change the oil you do not need to change the filter with such low useage on the filter. But, it is a waste of oil, meaning your engine will be no better off changing out the YAMI for another oil. ... 6. Without question, an HEDO oil is the best you can get and 15/40 is fine for your bike, for me personally, I would look for a 20/50 or 15/50 or 10/50 IF available. CH4 or higher to CJ4 or ACEA e7 or higher to e9. You live overseas in a small country. I do not know what is available to you over there. I do know many overseas have more choices then we do have in the USA. Its hard to find a 20/50 or 15/50 HEDO here. (I use a 15/50 HEDO but actually have to mail order it, even though we have every store imaginable here selling oil, they only carry 15/40) You also do not mention what the rating system is over there, here it is mainly the API and we are stuck looking for API HEDOs in the CH4 to CJ4 rating and most only carry CJ4. Yet overseas you also have the ACEA and can look for a e7 to e9 ... which leads me to one more thing. IF I were you, I would not hesitate to purchase a A3/B4 oil either, again not knowing what you have over there. ... 7. Change intervals are in your owners manual. But you can do the math, with a shared sump bike I would change every 3000 to 3500 MILES or every 6 months, whatever comes first. Last and final. A. Your on the right track. Me, if it was my bike, without question I would use an HEDO 15/50 or 20/50 (if available there) or an A3/B4 20/50 or 10/50. Second choice but REALLY close to first is also any HEDO 15/40. ANY major brand is fine, no proof that one brand is better then the other. B. To me personally, there is no benefit to using an synthetic oil in your bike, my personal feeling is your are actually better off with a conventional oil or a semi syn and changing at the 3,500 or sooner MILES (you can convert to KM). C. Stop driving yourself crazy, pick an oil from a major company, Shell, Mobile, or whatever you have over there and you will be good. D. NO way would I use a monograde oil. PS! Your Yamaha engine (valves) are supposed to sound like a sewing machine, if your engine is too quiet once hot, you are in need of a valve adjustment.
 
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Originally Posted By: donnyj08
Originally Posted By: FWR132
[quote=Atesz792][quote=DuckRyder]B
If you can get a 10w40 or 15w40 I see no reason to use a monograde oil. Way to many good multi grade oils to step back 50 years to straight weights.
^^^ agree but I would prefer a 10/50 to 20/50 and then 15/40 as a close second and would discount a 10/40 as just acceptable.
 
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