Hi, my cousins car takes 5w-20 oil (says it on the oil cap and in his manual) but he insists on putting 10w30 in it. Is that going to have any negative effect on his car?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Wrong oil?
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No, it should be fine.
Doesn't he know that thin is in?!?
Should be fine. He will most likely take a MPG hit, but that is all. I am doing the opposite (Truck is spec'd for 10W30, I am putting 5W20 in it).
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Should be fine. He will most likely take a MPG hit, but that is all. I am doing the opposite (Truck is spec'd for 10W30, I am putting 5W20 in it).
Tell your cousin I'm proud of him.
1% loss in gas mileage and performance? Might void his warranty?
If the car says use 5w-20, he should try it. I doubt he'll notice any difference but if the manufacturers recommend a certain weight for your car try it out and if you don't like it try something else. I was a little weary when I learned my van took 5w-20, but I tried it and used it ever since, and now 5w-20 is being sold pretty much everywhere.
Forget the factory manual and forget BITOG, go to the real source, the counter guy at your local parts store to get the real info on what's up with oil. These guy are so smart that they can tell what viscosity the oil is buy just reading the label. They don't even have to open the bottle. You can't be too careful. This 5w-20 is a conspiracy started by the government.
Triple_Se7en
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Some vehicle engines demand 5-20...ie... the Hemi.
What make, model and engine are we discussing here????
LOL Lonnie!
I'd never trust those counter-monkeys (no offense to those knowledgeable ones) for providing correct, undispusted information or parts.
I've came across numerous of incidents where the info they got was downright wrong: (example 1: my friend whose a mech and a small craft pilot/mech, trusted those counter guys so much that at one point, the monkey gave him a wrong set of spark plugs for his Ford P/U camper. That thing pinged all the way up the coquihalla highway incline on our lake trout fishing trip that when we came home and check, it was the wrong part # (wrong heat range). Guess what the parts monkey responded ??? ("...oops! Sorry!...")
(example 2:reman CV axle shaft for Nissan Sentra....the monkey couldn't get it right for us with the said year/model/vin number (the vehicle is completely stock and original since day-1, BTW). Later found that it was the supplier's catalogue error which complicated the matter further. Took 3 tries to being in 3 different shaft from a period of 10 years/2 gen Sentras before we could find the correct one.
Moral of the story: put aside that govt conspiracy theory for chriss sake and go with the manual. If it calls for API SM/ILSAC GF4 5W20 grade, stay with it (unless you have mechanical issues to begin with). Our local aftermarket parts chain (lor..o) hired a bunch of funnycar/muscle car guys over the counter and all they ever know is 10W40, 20W50, etc. no matter what you drive (try asking them 2T engine oil and they would give you that blank stare....)
Good luck dealing with certain professions...
I'd never trust those counter-monkeys (no offense to those knowledgeable ones) for providing correct, undispusted information or parts.
I've came across numerous of incidents where the info they got was downright wrong: (example 1: my friend whose a mech and a small craft pilot/mech, trusted those counter guys so much that at one point, the monkey gave him a wrong set of spark plugs for his Ford P/U camper. That thing pinged all the way up the coquihalla highway incline on our lake trout fishing trip that when we came home and check, it was the wrong part # (wrong heat range). Guess what the parts monkey responded ??? ("...oops! Sorry!...")
(example 2:reman CV axle shaft for Nissan Sentra....the monkey couldn't get it right for us with the said year/model/vin number (the vehicle is completely stock and original since day-1, BTW). Later found that it was the supplier's catalogue error which complicated the matter further. Took 3 tries to being in 3 different shaft from a period of 10 years/2 gen Sentras before we could find the correct one.
Moral of the story: put aside that govt conspiracy theory for chriss sake and go with the manual. If it calls for API SM/ILSAC GF4 5W20 grade, stay with it (unless you have mechanical issues to begin with). Our local aftermarket parts chain (lor..o) hired a bunch of funnycar/muscle car guys over the counter and all they ever know is 10W40, 20W50, etc. no matter what you drive (try asking them 2T engine oil and they would give you that blank stare....)
Good luck dealing with certain professions...
Soon they will go to 0w-10 oil for warranty req'ts. Then everyone will say it's a conspiracy. It's just to get past smog and the engines will fall apart in warm weather and will never make it past 100k miles. What you really need is a robust thicker oil to handle heat, towing and a/c, something like 5w-20. Stay away from that 0w-10.
Even longer than that. Amsoil has had theirs since 2001.
Well I just picked up a 5W-20 ride; the salesman said he was changing his oil on his own vehicle and accidentally put in 5w30; he quickly called his mechanic friend who told him to drain it out; the extra "stress" on the motor might do some harm....
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In California why worry about 10w30, I think its the best choice, temperature will not be a issue and regardless of the thin propaganda I dont see how a 5w20 would protect better than a 10w30 under heat. I tried the 5w20 oil in a 2006 Hemi, I dont like it, it gave me about 1 mpg and it seems like it takes longer to get oil pressure when you start it(watching the guage, it goes up slow) with 10w30 its like right now, plus the engine sounds quieter with the 10w30, I asked my wife for second opion because I fear I may be bias.
Its a honda accord.
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