Would I be a fool to test drive this 2013 BMW?

It’s turbocharged, which I don’t love, but it’s also not super expensive…which is a bit of a red flag in itself.
 
It's a nice looking car. I'd be very leery though. It's right at the mileage where hoses/bushings/sensors/plugs and all sorts of things will need to be replaced. Are you able and willing to work on it yourself? I'd really have a close inspection done and look at it's history. I personally would not buy another BMW. Too many things start to go wrong and it's a money pit. Good Luck w/your decision....
 
i'dwant to see a car fox.

Can you work on it, are you willing to buy some special tools/software?

If no - yes you'd be a fool, is yes, it could be a fun ride.
 
https:/yanautomotive.net/vdp/21737423/Used-2013-BMW-X3-xDrive28i-for-sale-in-Louisville-KY-40245

For those that don’t want to click the link it’s a 2013 BMW X3 xDrive 28i with 99k miles for $7900. I’ve been looking for a cheap AWD but all I hear about used German cars is how they are maintenance nightmares.
The B58 4 cylinder is fairly sorted out and shared with mini. My only real complaint is the over complication like needing special tools to tell the vehicle you installed a new battery or brake pads. If you plan on keeping it long term and have decent wrenching skills it won't be too expensive.
 
A few things to know about bmws:

- They always look pristine after several components are way, way beyond hope. So how thy look is of no incidence, unless thy look bad on top of everything else.

- Maintenance is key for all of them - the unicorn would be dealer maintained, with owner-requested (and paid for) extra oil changes in between the idiotic dealer-followed extended OCI.

- At that age, every single piece of plastic under the hood will be waiting to crumble. Coolant hoses are a regular change item (not every day of course, but say every five years if the car has seen a lot of city traffic).

- Early n20 engines = timing chain issues.

- ZF transmissions: BMW claims it's lifetime. ZF are adamant it needs to be changed by 100k miles.

- AWD: transfer case fluid needs to be replaced on a regular basis. No one does it, including dealerships. When left alone, this will eventually nuke the transfer case. Their actuator motors as well are prone to failure. When you get a used one and end up with the dreaded 4x4 trifecta lights (4x4 + abs + asc or whatever it's name was) error - you'll hope it's a $30 ABS sensor, pray it's a $500 (good non-oem brand) transfer case motor, curse when it inevitably ends up being the transfer case itself ($1k+ for a used rebuilt one by a third party, with core return).

The XDrive system is great when it works, but it has that one thing: it is permanently engaged (unless you code it out aftermarket with x-delete). It is a beast in the wet, BUT you'll have to be very strict with having all four tires at identical wear levels and pressures. The system will react to tire circumference differences in the order of 2-3%.

Unequally worn/inflated tires is a classic way to nuke a BMW transfer case in the long run. Won't happen right away, the poor thing will try, then eventually it will be errors then game over.
The car will remain drivable, but the trifecta lights will get burned on your forehead as they shine for years.

And the very last: if you have a garage and a lift (or at least Quickjacks), and if you're not afraid of wrenching - they are still a great bang for the buck as parts are available and there's a whole cottage industry of forums to guide you through. Same if you know a good independent BMW garage and you saved the owner's kid's life.

Otherwise - run. There is no upper limit to the amount of things that can break on a BMW, nor to the prices it might cost to fix. The purchase price has zero correlation to the end price it will cost you.

Speaking of wrenching - the service manual of a Japanese car will say "Step 3: remove that last bolt on that cover by sliding the bolt through that cutout we left". A BMW service manual will say "Step3: Drop the subframe, lower the engine by five inches, remove that last bolt".

Also to note - and not advertising at all - Kia/Hyundai's AWD from these years (at least on the Santa Fe and derivatives) is absolutely second to none. They were idiots to not advertise it. It was designed by Steyr/Magna, has a central lock button, and you can end up with real 50/50 AWD when needed. With good tires it's amazing in the snow. My SantaFe behaves in the snow very similarly to my Frogeye WRX, if a 4300lbs automatic WRX could exist.

They are on-demand AWD, but the lock button solves that in the snow. A Subaru will be like that or better, but a Honda from this era might be vastly inferior (unless it's a SH-AWD).
 
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https://ryanautomotive.net/vdp/21737423/Used-2013-BMW-X3-xDrive28i-for-sale-in-Louisville-KY-40245

For those that don’t want to click the link it’s a 2013 BMW X3 xDrive 28i with 99k miles for $7900. I’ve been looking for a cheap AWD but all I hear about used German cars is how they are maintenance nightmares.
Unless you're passionate about fixing things, a very good problem solver, and a critical thinker—or you're simply looking for a new hobby—I would take that eight grand and use it as a down payment on a $28,000 2025 Kia Sorento, Mazda CX-5, or Mazda CX-50. Over the next ten years, all you'll need to do on any of these three is routine maintenance: regular oil changes, the occasional transmission fluid service, and possibly driveline fluid changes if you go with an AWD model. And of course, tires.

In the long run, this choice will make you happier, because time is a resource you’ll never get back. Instead of spending countless frustrating hours fixing BMW issues, you’ll be out enjoying life—driving a reliable Kia or Mazda with peace of mind.
 
Unless you're passionate about fixing things, a very good problem solver, and a critical thinker—or you're simply looking for a new hobby—I would take that eight grand and use it as a down payment on a $28,000 2025 Kia Sorento, Mazda CX-5, or Mazda CX-50. Over the next ten years, all you'll need to do on any of these three is routine maintenance: regular oil changes, the occasional transmission fluid service, and possibly driveline fluid changes if you go with an AWD model. And of course, tires.

In the long run, this choice will make you happier, because time is a resource you’ll never get back. Instead of spending countless frustrating hours fixing BMW issues, you’ll be out enjoying life—driving a reliable Kia or Mazda with peace of mind.
Can you still get a new CX-5 for $28,000?
 
Turbocharged with 99 K miles, what could go wrong with that, LOL.

Turbos coke up ( get clogged with carbon, usually after 100 k to 120 k miles ). And bearings fail.

Having a turbo means there's a lot of extra hot surface under that hood to provide plenty of extra heat to literally cook all the plastic and rubber under that hood. Plastic parts become stiff and brittle and brake easy, when subjected to forces put on them under that hood, or when repairing other things that broke.

It's likley that everything is crammed in the limited space under the hood, which means the amount of labor to replace broken parts is a hech of a lot more than other vehicles because more has to come out and be put back to replace items like the turbo.

The price of parts is much higher, if and or when they can be obtained.

Its not a Toyota or Honda, expect long downtimes and high cost repairs.
 
I have been researching these because I would like one also - for a bump around city car. I think this one has the N20, which has timing chain issues. If you can find proof that it has been fixed, it might be worth it. There was a TSB so I suspect the car-fax would show it if it was. If not, I would pass.

Yes, it will need all the fluids and such. If its an auto it should have the ZF 8HP which is a really good trans.

Plenty of BMW enthusiasts here that hopefully will chime in.
 
https://ryanautomotive.net/vdp/21737423/Used-2013-BMW-X3-xDrive28i-for-sale-in-Louisville-KY-40245

For those that don’t want to click the link it’s a 2013 BMW X3 xDrive 28i with 99k miles for $7900. I’ve been looking for a cheap AWD but all I hear about used German cars is how they are maintenance nightmares.
Electric water pump failure along with thermostat and housing, cracked valve cover causing oil leak, oil leaks from the filter mounding pad are all common at 100K, not terrible if you catch it early and can do it yourself but easily 5K at a dealer. You must be able to DIY these 2.0 cars or they can put you in the poor house faster than a toupee in a fan factory.
 
Electric water pump failure along with thermostat and housing, cracked valve cover causing oil leak, oil leaks from the filter mounding pad are all common at 100K, not terrible if you catch it early and can do it yourself but easily 5K at a dealer. You must be able to DIY these 2.0 cars or they can put you in the poor house faster than a toupee in a fan factory.
How is the DIY? Is it just take a bunch of stuff off, put a bunch of stuff back, or is it a fight all the way?

Is there much space underhood? I would think so given they put 6 cylinders in the same car?
 
The SUV type X cars seem to be a little better than the 3,4,5,7 series stuff.

But They rarely never make 150k here. The few that do are well worn out, dash like a Christmas tree etc.

Figure that x3 with 99k on it has about 20k left before the car starts falling apart
 
How is the DIY? Is it just take a bunch of stuff off, put a bunch of stuff back, or is it a fight all the way?

Is there much space underhood? I would think so given they put 6 cylinders in the same car?
I suggest looking at some youtube videos, keep in mind they use a lot of torx on these engines so you may need some tools that you may or may not have. For me they are no overly difficult but I have done them so every one becomes easier, the first one always ends up in a cursing session.
 
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