Wix oil fi!ter question

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If you like the Ultra, why not use the Ultra. It's a couple three $$ difference. I'd be more concerned about dumping $25+ worth of oil too early.
 
The Ultra is 34 cents more than a Tough Guard in the 3614 size at Walmart now. The TG is a little over $4 in the 4967 size, on sale I guess.
 
Originally Posted By: goodtimes
The Ultra is 34 cents more than a Tough Guard in the 3614 size at Walmart now. The TG is a little over $4 in the 4967 size, on sale I guess.

Exactly. Fram Ultra is not that much more pricey.

Most decent cars are worth over 10 grand. 34 cents for more capacity (longevity), better filtering, wire-backing, etc., sounds kind of reasonable.

Even if you're one of those people who like additional grit circulating in your engine from the cheap filters ("Oooo, I saved $1.78!!), +0.34 means you don't have to raid your 401K to get the Ultra anyway.
 
Originally Posted By: 01_celica_gt
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
The Fram Ultra is 99.9% @ 20 microns with wire backed dual layers of full synthetic microglass media. It has the highest holding capacity of any filter on the market up to 32 grams which is why it's rated for at least 15,000 miles.
because of this, I run the Fram Ultra for 30,000 on all my rebuilt 1zz-fe motors, they are even cleaner then how much we could clean them. Valve clearance is verified after 10k on break-in oil, yes all break-in oils are synthetics.
Not to hijack, but what oil do you break in with? How many changes in 30K, three? My 1nz-fe in the xB is 15K into it's 20K Ultra run, changed the Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w30 at 10K. To the OP-normally the NAPA Gold are the black ones, but the Wix ones are normally white-not to be confused with the white NAPA Silvers or ProSelects. The Gold would be a good way to go, but if you shop around (eBay, etc.) you can find Ultras or Pro Synthetics for less than a Wix or NAPA Gold.
 
I bought a few Wix 57055/NAPA Gold 7055 filters (same item, the Wix was a little cheaper at O'Reilly) because I did not like the flimsy casing on the filters Subaru sold for my Forester. After 3800 miles on the first one, I noticed that there was oil seeping into the cup in which the filter sits (it is mounted on top of the engine). I tried making the filter a big tighter than usual after cleaning up the mess and had more oil seeping out after about 20 miles of mostly highway driving.
I switched back to the blue Subaru filters for now and have not had any more oil seeping out in 1200 more miles. A poster on here warned me about the square seals on the Wix filters and I ignored it...I'm not sure what the problem was, but I am done with those filters.
 
P gasket filters to prevent leaks. The Subaru unit is a good filter. If you don't like that you can use a hond/wix with Si adbv but youll get a lower bypass spec - if that bothers you for some reason.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: gabriel9766
Tough guard sounds better than the wix i guess.


I don't think any filter using cardboard end caps is better than a WIX.

The Fram XG is the only Fram I'll use for that reason.


Fiber end disc phobia; typical.
Just like the anti Puro c**p.
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
P gasket filters to prevent leaks. The Subaru unit is a good filter. If you don't like that you can use a hond/wix with Si adbv but youll get a lower bypass spec - if that bothers you for some reason.


I have picked up samples of a couple of Tokyo Roki filter types for future changes. One seems to be a clone of the black filter that Subarus are shipping from Japan with, but it is labelled as a Mazda filter (part # ends in 302). The other is the short and squat filter that is recommended for the WRX (part # ends in 170). Both have the higher bypass pressure spec, about 23 PSI, and both have P gaskets.
I just can't stand feeling the casings of the blue filters flexing when I hand tighten them. I'm sure it's just me, but I don't like to use those filters as a result.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: gabriel9766
Tough guard sounds better than the wix i guess.


I don't think any filter using cardboard end caps is better than a WIX.

The Fram XG is the only Fram I'll use for that reason.


Fiber end disc phobia; typical.


Yep. I'm tired of the phobia. I've never had any issues with these horrible flimsy end cap FRAMs. God help me.
 
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: gabriel9766
Tough guard sounds better than the wix i guess.


I don't think any filter using cardboard end caps is better than a WIX.

The Fram XG is the only Fram I'll use for that reason.


Fiber end disc phobia; typical.
Just like the anti Puro c**p.


Well I don't see a spreadsheet with a huge list of tough guard failures...so I'd say the Purolator phobia was extremely justified as evidence by the changing of their filters shortly after Purolator engineers were made aware of said spreadsheet
 
Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
Originally Posted By: 01_celica_gt
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
The Fram Ultra is 99.9% @ 20 microns with wire backed dual layers of full synthetic microglass media. It has the highest holding capacity of any filter on the market up to 32 grams which is why it's rated for at least 15,000 miles.
because of this, I run the Fram Ultra for 30,000 on all my rebuilt 1zz-fe motors, they are even cleaner then how much we could clean them. Valve clearance is verified after 10k on break-in oil, yes all break-in oils are synthetics.
Not to hijack, but what oil do you break in with? How many changes in 30K, three? My 1nz-fe in the xB is 15K into it's 20K Ultra run, changed the Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w30 at 10K.
Any brand name synthetics, and yes three 10k OCI on the same fram ultra.

during valve clearance, I also verify the cam & crank position sensors for shavings(very easy to access on the 1zzfe in the car), what I have found is that with synthetic blends(only motorcraft)/synthetics(brand name synthetics), I'm getting no shavings, and on the 4 engines that I have used conventional(1 of 4 was syn blend Super S from Menards) for break-in, I got a decent bit of shaving, which upon the next oil (subsequent oil changes are synthetics) change didn't return.

My anecdotal experience says for break-in and the subsequent oil changes, the use of synthetics on this engine would be highly recommended, by not getting any shavings on the magnetic cam & crank position sensors.
 
I'd buy the Wix.

The Wix quality is there top to bottom.

It's not been value engineered to the extent that it's just a piece of media held in place in the can with a squirt of glue.

And the Wix filter's efficiency is sufficient to meet OEM standards. Isn't that enough?
 
Originally Posted By: pbm
The 95% efficiency at 20 microns for a 'standard Wix filter' that you quote is referring to the same Wix filter that is sold as the Napa Gold?...or is it the Napa Silver?


Standard WIX and the NAPA Gold are supposed to be the same guts, so the NAPA Gold would be at 95% @ 20 microns also. I would suspect that the NAPA Silver is maybe less efficient, but haven't seen any real beta ratio/efficiency numbers on them.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
The tough guard i used last time produced a very low 0.1% inconsolable rating...


I had no idea they were rated on emotion.
grin.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Yes sir, you are correct. It's all there in black and white. Plain and simple. Not open for interpretation.
56.gif


Next time, I may buy the oversized 57356 in white, or stick to the 51358 in black.
wink.gif
 
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