why use a different weight than what the manual says and why? Seen a few of you do it and was wondering why. thanks
Why use a different weight than manual says?
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Some manufacturers recommend oils based on CAFE standards,not longevity,thats not good enough for me.My owners manual actually says 'use of synthetic oils are not recommended'..................WHAT?,Okay..THATS what I'm gonna do..
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Originally Posted By: Shannow
Because some people think that certain recommendations are made not to ensure the longevity of their investment, but for other, possible political motivation.
So they choose what they think suits them best
This does seem to be the main reason. At least it's the main reason stated here.
Because some people think that certain recommendations are made not to ensure the longevity of their investment, but for other, possible political motivation.
So they choose what they think suits them best
This does seem to be the main reason. At least it's the main reason stated here.
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Most recommendations are a one size fits all thing. KISS. If one thinks it out, and determines why the recommendation is what it is, one can make an informed decision on straying from it.
Now that said, we always feel we are informed, even if our view is of limited dimension. Our view, from our viewpoint, is comprehensive.
What many people do is apply some reasoning based on latching on to other recommendations. The popular one being "what they do elsewhere". They take the viscosity used elsewhere ..and more or less leave it at that, taking nothing else into account. The how and/or why is pretty much abandoned.
In the end we'll all do what we want to do and justify it by whatever means available.
Take a Euro. Now some anal Teutonic admirer would never soil their engine with conventional, but an informed user could do so if they take their demands into account. It would be viewed as something like what Griswold's "cousin Eddie" would do.
Now that said, we always feel we are informed, even if our view is of limited dimension. Our view, from our viewpoint, is comprehensive.
What many people do is apply some reasoning based on latching on to other recommendations. The popular one being "what they do elsewhere". They take the viscosity used elsewhere ..and more or less leave it at that, taking nothing else into account. The how and/or why is pretty much abandoned.
In the end we'll all do what we want to do and justify it by whatever means available.
Take a Euro. Now some anal Teutonic admirer would never soil their engine with conventional, but an informed user could do so if they take their demands into account. It would be viewed as something like what Griswold's "cousin Eddie" would do.
The FSM for my truck, dated the previous model year ('06 and I have an '07) says 5w30.
My manual says 0W-20 or 5W-20. I'm pretty sure its exactly the same engine oil clearances, etc.
It is probably the gas mileage thing they re-spec'ed the engines on most models for the thinner stuff.
Fine, I'll use XW-20, it will be fine for my driving until the warranty expires (or forever for that matter). But I fear not the 5w30 weight and will probably use that in the long run, or if I expect to do a lot of hauling.
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
It would be viewed as something like what Griswold's "cousin Eddie" would do.
"Real catsup, Eddie?"
"Nothing but the best for you."
My manual says 0W-20 or 5W-20. I'm pretty sure its exactly the same engine oil clearances, etc.
It is probably the gas mileage thing they re-spec'ed the engines on most models for the thinner stuff.
Fine, I'll use XW-20, it will be fine for my driving until the warranty expires (or forever for that matter). But I fear not the 5w30 weight and will probably use that in the long run, or if I expect to do a lot of hauling.
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
It would be viewed as something like what Griswold's "cousin Eddie" would do.
"Real catsup, Eddie?"
"Nothing but the best for you."
Gary,
I think I share your view.
Would a 5w30 work just fine in every engine I have?
Yes.
Would wear due to inadequate lubrication shorten engine life?
Not over any number of miles any engine is likely to achieve in any daily driver.
Now, if we look at how we operate our daily driver, and if we consider seasonal ambient temperature ranges, we can consider a whole new universe of oil weights.
I can acquire a nice sub-stash of Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15W-50 dirt cheap on clearance from Meijer and Target, for example, and I can run it in the Hondas from April through October. I can do this with no noticeable increase in fuel consumption primarily because both cars are driven some distance every day.
The '99 is started and driven twenty five miles to work, by me, while the '97 is started and driven forty miles to school by my older son.
Now, Mobil 1 15W-50 would not be a good pick for either car for the colder months of the year, nor would it be suitable for a short tripper. In warm weather, for the way in which these cars are run, it's just fine.
I think I share your view.
Would a 5w30 work just fine in every engine I have?
Yes.
Would wear due to inadequate lubrication shorten engine life?
Not over any number of miles any engine is likely to achieve in any daily driver.
Now, if we look at how we operate our daily driver, and if we consider seasonal ambient temperature ranges, we can consider a whole new universe of oil weights.
I can acquire a nice sub-stash of Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15W-50 dirt cheap on clearance from Meijer and Target, for example, and I can run it in the Hondas from April through October. I can do this with no noticeable increase in fuel consumption primarily because both cars are driven some distance every day.
The '99 is started and driven twenty five miles to work, by me, while the '97 is started and driven forty miles to school by my older son.
Now, Mobil 1 15W-50 would not be a good pick for either car for the colder months of the year, nor would it be suitable for a short tripper. In warm weather, for the way in which these cars are run, it's just fine.
How many people go by the manual anyway? I think most of us use what is labeled on the oil cap. For my truck it recommends 5w30 but I'm using 10w30 in it now because it's warm outside and was the only grade they had on sale. Now if you look at the manual you will probably see at least three different grades of oil for your vehicle based on outside temperature. The one on the oil cap is probably the best mineral oil for all seasons though.
Originally Posted By: Warstud
How many people go by the manual anyway? I think most of us use what is labeled on the oil cap. For my truck it recommends 5w30 but I'm using 10w30 in it now because it's warm outside and was the only grade they had on sale. Now if you look at the manual you will probably see at least three different grades of oil for your vehicle based on outside temperature. The one on the oil cap is probably the best mineral oil for all seasons though.
Isn't 0 Degrees Fahrenheit the general rule of thumb on when to switch down to 5w30 from 10w30 anyways?
How many people go by the manual anyway? I think most of us use what is labeled on the oil cap. For my truck it recommends 5w30 but I'm using 10w30 in it now because it's warm outside and was the only grade they had on sale. Now if you look at the manual you will probably see at least three different grades of oil for your vehicle based on outside temperature. The one on the oil cap is probably the best mineral oil for all seasons though.
Isn't 0 Degrees Fahrenheit the general rule of thumb on when to switch down to 5w30 from 10w30 anyways?
Originally Posted By: Warstud
How many people go by the manual anyway? I think most of us use what is labeled on the oil cap. For my truck it recommends 5w30 but I'm using 10w30 in it now because it's warm outside and was the only grade they had on sale. Now if you look at the manual you will probably see at least three different grades of oil for your vehicle based on outside temperature. The one on the oil cap is probably the best mineral oil for all seasons though.
My cap never came with a recommendation on it. It just says "Honda: Oil" on it.
How many people go by the manual anyway? I think most of us use what is labeled on the oil cap. For my truck it recommends 5w30 but I'm using 10w30 in it now because it's warm outside and was the only grade they had on sale. Now if you look at the manual you will probably see at least three different grades of oil for your vehicle based on outside temperature. The one on the oil cap is probably the best mineral oil for all seasons though.
My cap never came with a recommendation on it. It just says "Honda: Oil" on it.
Originally Posted By: Warstud
Now if you look at the manual you will probably see at least three different grades of oil for your vehicle based on outside temperature.
Not for the two cars I have i.e. both are GMs and the manuals for both specify only 5W30 and barely permit 0W30 (only if the temperature falls below -20F).
Now if you look at the manual you will probably see at least three different grades of oil for your vehicle based on outside temperature.
Not for the two cars I have i.e. both are GMs and the manuals for both specify only 5W30 and barely permit 0W30 (only if the temperature falls below -20F).
Originally Posted By: sangyup81
Originally Posted By: Warstud
How many people go by the manual anyway? I think most of us use what is labeled on the oil cap. For my truck it recommends 5w30 but I'm using 10w30 in it now because it's warm outside and was the only grade they had on sale. Now if you look at the manual you will probably see at least three different grades of oil for your vehicle based on outside temperature. The one on the oil cap is probably the best mineral oil for all seasons though.
Isn't 0 Degrees Fahrenheit the general rule of thumb on when to switch down to 5w30 from 10w30 anyways?
Yes I believe that is correct.
Originally Posted By: Warstud
How many people go by the manual anyway? I think most of us use what is labeled on the oil cap. For my truck it recommends 5w30 but I'm using 10w30 in it now because it's warm outside and was the only grade they had on sale. Now if you look at the manual you will probably see at least three different grades of oil for your vehicle based on outside temperature. The one on the oil cap is probably the best mineral oil for all seasons though.
Isn't 0 Degrees Fahrenheit the general rule of thumb on when to switch down to 5w30 from 10w30 anyways?
Yes I believe that is correct.
Originally Posted By: 21Rouge
Originally Posted By: Warstud
Now if you look at the manual you will probably see at least three different grades of oil for your vehicle based on outside temperature.
Not for the two cars I have i.e. both are GMs and the manuals for both specify only 5W30 and barely permit 0W30 (only if the temperature falls below -20F).
That's something new to me. Are these newer cars? Hard to believe you can only run a 0w30 below -20F. Maybe they know something we dont.
Originally Posted By: Warstud
Now if you look at the manual you will probably see at least three different grades of oil for your vehicle based on outside temperature.
Not for the two cars I have i.e. both are GMs and the manuals for both specify only 5W30 and barely permit 0W30 (only if the temperature falls below -20F).
That's something new to me. Are these newer cars? Hard to believe you can only run a 0w30 below -20F. Maybe they know something we dont.
Originally Posted By: Warstud
Originally Posted By: 21Rouge
Originally Posted By: Warstud
Now if you look at the manual you will probably see at least three different grades of oil for your vehicle based on outside temperature.
Not for the two cars I have i.e. both are GMs and the manuals for both specify only 5W30 and barely permit 0W30 (only if the temperature falls below -20F).
That's something new to me. Are these newer cars? Hard to believe you can only run a 0w30 below -20F. Maybe they know something we dont.
I wasn't clear. You can use 5W30 for any temperature but have the option of using 0W30 if the ambient temperature is below -20F. No other grade of oil is permitted according to the manual.
And these instructions are the same for our 05 Pontiac and 09 Chevrolet.
Originally Posted By: 21Rouge
Originally Posted By: Warstud
Now if you look at the manual you will probably see at least three different grades of oil for your vehicle based on outside temperature.
Not for the two cars I have i.e. both are GMs and the manuals for both specify only 5W30 and barely permit 0W30 (only if the temperature falls below -20F).
That's something new to me. Are these newer cars? Hard to believe you can only run a 0w30 below -20F. Maybe they know something we dont.
I wasn't clear. You can use 5W30 for any temperature but have the option of using 0W30 if the ambient temperature is below -20F. No other grade of oil is permitted according to the manual.
And these instructions are the same for our 05 Pontiac and 09 Chevrolet.
A huge difference in changing from your recommended viscosity is rarely warranted.
But going up or down one grade is not a big deal, at all.
Particular conditions can call for this.
But going up or down one grade is not a big deal, at all.
Particular conditions can call for this.
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Originally Posted By: 21Rouge
Originally Posted By: Warstud
Originally Posted By: 21Rouge
Originally Posted By: Warstud
Now if you look at the manual you will probably see at least three different grades of oil for your vehicle based on outside temperature.
Not for the two cars I have i.e. both are GMs and the manuals for both specify only 5W30 and barely permit 0W30 (only if the temperature falls below -20F).
That's something new to me. Are these newer cars? Hard to believe you can only run a 0w30 below -20F. Maybe they know something we dont.
I wasn't clear. You can use 5W30 for any temperature but have the option of using 0W30 if the ambient temperature is below -20F. No other grade of oil is permitted according to the manual.
And these instructions are the same for our 05 Pontiac and 09 Chevrolet.
Are you saying that this is IN PRINT (that paraphrased dialog)? Most have those arrows/bars of suitability on a temp chart.
I can only imagine the 0w30 extending beyond on where it begins compared to where the others do. The "finish line" should be the same.
I could see it saying "where temps are at or below -20F, a 0w30 is suitable for use".
That in no way prohibits its use 24/7/365. That's not how that's to be interpreted.
Originally Posted By: Warstud
Originally Posted By: 21Rouge
Originally Posted By: Warstud
Now if you look at the manual you will probably see at least three different grades of oil for your vehicle based on outside temperature.
Not for the two cars I have i.e. both are GMs and the manuals for both specify only 5W30 and barely permit 0W30 (only if the temperature falls below -20F).
That's something new to me. Are these newer cars? Hard to believe you can only run a 0w30 below -20F. Maybe they know something we dont.
I wasn't clear. You can use 5W30 for any temperature but have the option of using 0W30 if the ambient temperature is below -20F. No other grade of oil is permitted according to the manual.
And these instructions are the same for our 05 Pontiac and 09 Chevrolet.
Are you saying that this is IN PRINT (that paraphrased dialog)? Most have those arrows/bars of suitability on a temp chart.
I can only imagine the 0w30 extending beyond on where it begins compared to where the others do. The "finish line" should be the same.
I could see it saying "where temps are at or below -20F, a 0w30 is suitable for use".
That in no way prohibits its use 24/7/365. That's not how that's to be interpreted.
Manuals have changed over time. They used to have a table of ambient temps and applicable oil visc with a large degree of overlap. Oil products themselves have changed and improved since then, 10w30 is ok below +20f and 5w30 is ok at 100f.
However, the thing we do at this site is optimize the oil and conditions, and a strict one-grade recommendation doesn't suit us like it does 95% of the population. Most of them don't even understand the specs anyway. Take my cousin, who GTX is his brand, he declined a few free jugs I offered of 10w30 GTX because his TOYOTA says 5w30 on the cap. Duh.
I still switch 10w30 in summer and 5w-20 in winter.
However, the thing we do at this site is optimize the oil and conditions, and a strict one-grade recommendation doesn't suit us like it does 95% of the population. Most of them don't even understand the specs anyway. Take my cousin, who GTX is his brand, he declined a few free jugs I offered of 10w30 GTX because his TOYOTA says 5w30 on the cap. Duh.
I still switch 10w30 in summer and 5w-20 in winter.
I also have a problem with a synthetic recommendation in a non-turbo car. Like the VW 2.0. Used to call for any 10w30, but later went to extended drains and a VW 502 spec oil. That's what the synthetic is for in non-turbos, extended drains, which not everyone does, and imo, more changes of conventional oil do a better job anyway.
Another thing is the Euro spec 5w-40. It is just not necessary in North America driving with a stock engine. We just don't generate the oil temps necessary to thin the oil down to the 9cSt "danger zone". I did a quick calculation of a driver who used oil analysised his BMW oil. At his track oil temps, the BMW oil thinned down from 12 to 9cSt, and the used oil analysis was fine. Another driver who barely break +100c can run 5w30 or even 5w-20 in some circumstances.
I have Havoline 5w-20 in my Mom's VW 2.0 with no worries at all.
Another thing is the Euro spec 5w-40. It is just not necessary in North America driving with a stock engine. We just don't generate the oil temps necessary to thin the oil down to the 9cSt "danger zone". I did a quick calculation of a driver who used oil analysised his BMW oil. At his track oil temps, the BMW oil thinned down from 12 to 9cSt, and the used oil analysis was fine. Another driver who barely break +100c can run 5w30 or even 5w-20 in some circumstances.
I have Havoline 5w-20 in my Mom's VW 2.0 with no worries at all.
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