Why Is The ARX "Rinse" Phase Important?

[ULVER]

I was just curious... After you have done the cleaning phase, what are the dynamics of the "rinse" phase? I believe you are suppose to use conventional for 2K, and then you can change back to your favorite synthetic.

If there is now no ARX in the oil, what exactly is the rinse phase doing? What if you just went back to synthetic, right after the cleaning phase?

Thanks...

 

[bobo]

I just started my AutoRX rinse phase yesterday. I believe the AutoRX bonds/adheres to the inside of the engine/crankcase and the rinse phase suspends the varnish/sludge in the oil filter.

Read more on www.auto-rx.com

I believe this is a situation where the instructions should be followed to the letter, ie. no short cuts, no departures. In other words, use conventional oil for 2,000 miles in the rinse phase and ask no more questions.

 

['Tard]

Oh no, Conventional will destroy my engine!

Not.

I swear, so many have bought into the synthetic marketing myths that they don't even trust conventional oil for a 2000 mile OCI.

 

[ULVER]

quote:

---

Originally posted by 'Tard:
Oh no, Conventional will destroy my engine!

Not.

I swear, so many have bought into the synthetic marketing myths that they don't even trust conventional oil for a 2000 mile OCI.

---

I never said conventional would destroy anything. I'm sure a GF-4 changed @ 5K, would serve an entire lifetime of a vehicle well. And a long life it would be. However, the virtues of a true Group IV synthetic are many.

MY QUESTION, was the concerning what the ARX was doing during this rinse phase...

 

[darkdan]

The host oil's detergent/dispersant package is what actually carrys the stuff away.

The cleaning phase oil's D/D additives are quickly used up and then the cleaning stops.

During the rinse phase fresh D/D additives "wash" the remaining auto-rx and deposits off the surfaces.

So if you immediately returned to synthetics your oil would be rather dirty rather quickly. Since synthetics main benefits are extended drains.....you wouldn't want to run an extended drain.

Besides, using conventional oil on the rinse phase is what really helps out the seals I'm sure.

 

['Tard]

Sorry Ulver,

The Arx, as I understand it, chemically bonds with the the sludge. There is some polar activity too.

The fresh rinse oil has the detergents and dispersants as mentioned before that move the now modified sludge into the oil very slowly, possibly because the fresh oil has better potential polarity to do the deed.

Synthetic oil, as we've been told, competes a bit with the process.

Usually, the rinse oil starts to turn dark after 500 miles or so.

If there is a seal issue, then dino is definitly called for for a couple oci's (is it 8000 miles?) as the seal conditioners are superior in dino than synthetic. When the seals have benn rehabilitated, then a synthetic regime can be continued.

 

[GROUCHO MARX]

It's only important for efficacy.

 

[jaj]

Think of it this way...

ARX removes sludge and varnish the same way that a cosmetician's wax job removes body hair.

During the clean phase, ARX lays down a layer of chemical that digs down to the metal under any coating of oxidized oil byproducts like varnish or sludge.

During the rinse phase, the clean oil rips the layer of ARX off the metal and leaves clean metal behind.

The ARX layer is ester based, and if there's ester in the rinse oil (most synthetic oils have ester additives) then the rinse oil doesn't get a proper grip on the ARX layer, and the crud doesn't get pulled off.

I'm sure that from a practicing chemist's point of view this explanation is over simplified by a factor of a thousand or so. But it's a handy (and entertaining) way to think of it.

Cheers
JJ

 

[LarryL]

The best reason to use dyno oil during the clean and rinse is because it works. It's a proven product that works as advertised if you follow the instructions. I see no reason to experiment. I'm using it right now and it's working just fine.

 

[Crashbox]

Yep, I'm following ARX's advice too by a dino rinse phase in my '95 Civic. It will be very interesting to see the final results...

I think Frank explains the reasons for using dino very well on his website.

 

[bmwtechguy]

I found that for the rinse phase in several higher mileage cars, that a 15w40 HDEO worked very well. I felt that the extra detergency and dispersants found in a diesel-rated oil would assist in the rinse process, plus we were having 95 degF days this summer, so a 40 weight could not hurt too much. The ARX reduced oil consumption dramatically on several cars and some rear main seal leakage on one. I'm definitely a believer in Frank's product.

 

[ULVER]

I will change this next week, heading into the "rinse phase"...

Gonna be using EXXON SuperFlo 5-30. It's a GF-4, so little to worry.

I WAS curious about what oil filter???

I have a K&N, but I think I will use that, with the GC and the start of winter. I have another Baldwin left too. And, a Pure One... I think it's filtering might be what's needed now, in this phase, as opposed to flow.
Thoughts???

 

[LarryL]

if in doubt about the filter you can always use Purolator, good filter, fair price, available in lots of places, to grades good and better.

 

['Tard]

Any of those are good, from what has been posted in the oil filter forum.

Personally I would save the better flowing filter for the cold weather.

 

[mdocod]

above posters have already said what I was gona say in a variant of words in response to the original question..

basically.. it seems that ARX, works by penetrating the sludge in such a way, that a non-polerized conventional oil is most likally to wash it away.

My best guess.. is to say, that ARX penetrates the sludge with a polerization, installing a polerized synthetic, would result in the oil passing over it without any reaction or cleaning... installing a regular conventional oil, with no exacting polorization, results in much of the sludge adhering to the oil rather than staying put, almost like a magnet... the conventional oil acts as a magnet to the polerized sludge, the synthetic does not.

this might explain, why many of the "after-photos" of cleaning.. show most of the gunk on the filter after the rinse phase, not the cleaning phase.

i'll be using supertech 5w30 for my clean and rinse phases on both vehicles.