Why change rearend lube?
- Thread starter westex39
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Oh they were vampires alright. They sucked my wallet dry!
Suppose I have this friend who owns a 01 Ford 1/2 ton and that friend has 67K on the original gear lube. The manual states that it doesn't require changing unless submerged. Should I, ugh I mean he, change the fluid anyway? The factory fill is a 75W-140, but already purchased M1 75W-90. Will 75w-90 harm it or should I go with the factory fluid?
Suppose I have this friend who owns a 01 Ford 1/2 ton and that friend has 67K on the original gear lube. The manual states that it doesn't require changing unless submerged. Should I, ugh I mean he, change the fluid anyway? The factory fill is a 75W-140, but already purchased M1 75W-90. Will 75w-90 harm it or should I go with the factory fluid?
When I changed the rear lube on my '94 Stang, it looked like marine grease (bluish-green and milky). That was about 92K factory fill. I think the owner's manual says to change it out at 100K, or if submerged.
Drove a Mustang GT '88 ragtop for 223k miles - never did change the gear lube - lsd functioned as normal.
Changed oem 90 gear oil at 15k on my Trooper as manual suggested - I don't recall seeing metal particles. Fast forward 50k - changed R&P from 4.30 to 5.38 - changed lube between 500 - 1k miles - whoa, shinny metal stuff in oil and magnet. Took 1 or 2 more changes before everything was clear. Usually change gear oil every 30k - now running Schaeffer's #267.
Changed oem 90 gear oil at 15k on my Trooper as manual suggested - I don't recall seeing metal particles. Fast forward 50k - changed R&P from 4.30 to 5.38 - changed lube between 500 - 1k miles - whoa, shinny metal stuff in oil and magnet. Took 1 or 2 more changes before everything was clear. Usually change gear oil every 30k - now running Schaeffer's #267.
Probably not. I wonder why Ford went from 80w90 dino to 75w140 synthetic. They could just as easily made the step up to 75w90 synthetic. I think they went overkill.
I made the change out on my 2000 Excursion from the 75w140 factory synthetic to 75w90 Series 2000 Amsoil at about 8k miles and I picked up about 8% city and 11% highway better fuel mileage.
Please check your fuel economy before and after and let us know if it made any difference for you.
I think Ford engineers are suseptable to the same "rumors" as everyone else. Somebody at Ford probably thought the 75W140 would protect the diffs better because they have a thicker viscosity. Probably were worried about the whole seal issue with synthetic too.
Wulli - I'm guessing you haven't had anytrouble with the diff in your excursion. My feeling is that these axles have run 200k on dino 80w90, they shoud be fine with 75w90 syn. Thanks for the reassurance. BTW I track my mileage very closely as it is, but will update you when I change the fluid.
Wulli - I'm guessing you haven't had anytrouble with the diff in your excursion. My feeling is that these axles have run 200k on dino 80w90, they shoud be fine with 75w90 syn. Thanks for the reassurance. BTW I track my mileage very closely as it is, but will update you when I change the fluid.
My Mustang 5.0L has had a few changes. Kinda of a given with something that needs the Traction Loc rebuilt every year or two.
My 4Runner got Mobil-1 lube put in it last year in both diffs, the transfer and the transmission. I doubt I'll change it again.
My Pathfinder has over 200K miles and none of the the driveline fluid has ever been changed. I'm prtty sure it will go to junk before any of it fails from poor lubrication...
My 4Runner got Mobil-1 lube put in it last year in both diffs, the transfer and the transmission. I doubt I'll change it again.
My Pathfinder has over 200K miles and none of the the driveline fluid has ever been changed. I'm prtty sure it will go to junk before any of it fails from poor lubrication...
Well, I changed mine about 5 times in the first 100K and once for about 240-50K, and just changed it again because I wanted to use up some lube and because I wanted to flush out whatwas there.
BTW you know you can send the gear lube to be tested. What would this group do if they find out that you are suppose to chaNge it once and awhile?
A question I have is how much slapping on a Tacoma is normal? Ever since it was new it has always slapped when goosing the gas or changing gears (mainly 1 and 2), and now wfter 375-K it has been louder (For about 8-10k)?
I think you are talking about backlash, it is not a problem and after 375k miles (nice truck!), you should expect some.
Back to the original question.... I thought the same thing untill, just for the heck of it, I drained the lube in my BMW and sent in some for analysis. I think it was M1 75w90. Was only in for a year and didn't look too impressive. I'll do a UOA on the AMSOIL lube that's in there now in another year's time.
[ August 21, 2003, 02:26 PM: Message edited by: 1maniac ]
[ August 21, 2003, 02:26 PM: Message edited by: 1maniac ]
Yup sounds good, only thing is I can recall to do the engine oil, but I forget about the gear-oil.quote:
Originally posted by 1maniac:
Back to the original question.... I thought the same thing untill, just for the heck of it, I drained the lube in my BMW and sent in some for analysis. I think it was M1 75w90. Was only in for a year and didn't look too impressive. I'll do a UOA on the AMSOIL lube that's in there now in another year's time.
I was going to pull a sample this time and it wasnt til I was almost home when I figured out I forgot again.
I would like to know what most cars/trucks (autos) get between changes.
I know on the magnet, the factory fill it had several inches of metal(looked like tooth-paste)
and when I swiched to a premium Dino it dropped, anyway I went on the rear-end I think around 220-240K on the flush before last and the metal was still like a thin layer of toothpaste, this last time I put a cleaner in there and out came a SLIVER about the size of two pencil-eraser heads and as thick as about 3-4 sheets of paper... worried me.
HI, when I changed the factory fill(75w-140 syn metal tag))on my '99 Ford E150 van,the magnet was covered with metallic sludge.As it was suction-pumped out,some stuff did not get removed.It was about 10k miles ago. The Sta-Lube Syn-Go fluid was costly.I was thinking of just pumping out the fluid and filtering it for the residue still in there.Is is worth the effort? The factory fill settled in a container with an inch+ layer of the metallic sludge!
Thanks
Well I changed to Mobil 1 gear oil. No change in fuel economy, but it was a good thing I changed it. The fluid was filled with fine metal particles, like powdered graphite, and the magnetic plug was covered in it. The fluid also had a significant amount of water in it, probably from the poorly located vent tube. Ring and pinion looked good, but the spider gears were pitted a little. Should be OK now, but it wouldn't have gone to 100k.
You could not tow enough weight with your 1/2 ton to require 75-140. I have a 02 Dodge 3500 CTD 1 ton and they come from the factory with 75-90. Now if I was going to tow at max load in the summer I would switch to the 75-140, but you don't need to switch. The only reason I would switch if I were you would be if the dealer was going to do it for free. JMHOquote:
Originally posted by Starbreaker666:
1 reason
M-F'ing Dodge putting the wrong weight in '02 1500's...It should have been 75-140 Syn instead of the 75-90 that is was originally. This issue was corrected however in like Dec. 02. The unlucky suckers (ME) who got trucks with the wrong weight were told via a TSB instead of a warranty notice. Oh well I will change it to the correct weight when the wife and I get our travel trailer in the spring. 75-90 is more then adequit for everyday driving just not for heavier towing.
Just finished doing mine 1/2 hour ago, '94 mitsubishi truck 70 k second gear & manual tranny oil change. Bought mobil 1 5 qts 75-90 weight.
Book said to change every 30 k { haynes } came out amber almost perfect with minimal mettalic sludge on magnet. All I have to say is this, if I knew it would come out looking like that the 40 $ I spent on it wouldve gone to beer money. I kinda feel like I wasted my $ & time but @ least I know theres no water or other problems with my diff. & tranny....
Last time I do this on the truck.
Book said to change every 30 k { haynes } came out amber almost perfect with minimal mettalic sludge on magnet. All I have to say is this, if I knew it would come out looking like that the 40 $ I spent on it wouldve gone to beer money. I kinda feel like I wasted my $ & time but @ least I know theres no water or other problems with my diff. & tranny....
Where would one find the magnet? For those cars/trucks that have drain plugs, you just drain and fill. Would they have a magnet too? Sounds like you would have to remove the differntial cover to get at the magnet.
I just changed the Dana rear in the wife's Jeep for the third time at 55k. (Previous fills were oem and Mobil One, now gone to Redline). After a 1k treat with A-Rx and a case cleanout -- all of which consumed about two hours -- I can't see the reason for NOT servicing it. After 25-30k miles, who knows where it got submerged in a torrential rain now forgotten, etc.
If this were an expensive or difficult service, I could see it. But it's just too easy, and three years or 30k fits in with some other infrequent services.
If this were an expensive or difficult service, I could see it. But it's just too easy, and three years or 30k fits in with some other infrequent services.
MolaKule
Staff member
"Where would one find the magnet? For those cars/trucks that have drain plugs, you just drain and fill. Would they have a magnet too? Sounds like you would have to remove the differntial cover to get at the magnet. "
Some magnets are on the rear differential cover. In the Nissans, the drain plugs or fill plugs are magnets as well. That's one reason I like the Nissans - a drain plug on everything. Makes changing fluids a piece of cake.
Some magnets are on the rear differential cover. In the Nissans, the drain plugs or fill plugs are magnets as well. That's one reason I like the Nissans - a drain plug on everything. Makes changing fluids a piece of cake.
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