Whole house surge protector

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I am looking for a whole house surge protector to be installed at the main electric panel in my house. Does anybody have any experience with these? Any recommendations on products or companies?

There are always transformers blowing in my area of town and it is tough on my electronic equipment. Thanks
 
Not a bad idea.

Thanks to Irene when I was applying load to my backup generator it shorted and fried all of the internal surge protectors but none of the equipment was damaged. My only concern would be if a similar incident happened but at the main panel until it was replaced there would be no power through the electrical. During a storm that would suck.

The reason the gen shorted is the windings move and shorted on the 1st lead at the brushes cooking the voltage regulator.
 
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I have a whole house surge protector put in after a lightning strike last year fried a lot of stuff to the tune of $7000 damage. Electrician who wired the protector in below the main box said that every house should have one of these. There is a light on the protector that stays green as long as it is functioning; if it turms red, it needs replacing.
 
Yes, I need something like that. Can you give me a manufacturer or model # and an approx. cost.. Thx
 
I have one in my current home and contractor is installing in the home I'm building. Obviously, I think they are worth it - we have relativly expensive TV, stereo and appliances.

New home quote was $190 installed, including contractors mark-up, so pretty reasonable.

All kinds to choose from (best bet is to buy whatever your electrician recommends/services) but remember that hookup takes up 2 spaces in the breaker box.
 
I did this about 15 yrs ago as a precaution. Sure beats buying many smaller ones to use throughout the house. Plus it clamps any voltage spikes greater than 600V from entering the house. If it explodes while doing its job, it's also outdoors.

Mine has two red LED's on the panel and both are still lit. You want some sort of visual indication to let you know it's still working. There is an IEEE/UL standard for these, but can't remember the number right now.
 
Originally Posted By: rk1407
I am looking for a whole house surge protector to be installed at the main electric panel in my house. Does anybody have any experience with these? Any recommendations on products or companies?


Nothing stops a surge. Especially not a $3 power strip with some ten cent protector parts selling for $25 or $80.

Either energy is harmlessly absorbed outside a building. Or that energy will hunt for earth ground destructively inside and via appliances. You make the choice by connecting a protector to the only thing that actually does protection. Single point earth ground.

Critical is how that protector connects hundreds of thousands of joules to that earth ground. Your earthing must both meet and exceed post 1990 code. For example, the bare copper quarter inch wire from the breaker box might go up over the foundation and down to earth. Therefore ‘whole house’ protector operation compromised. That wire is probably too long. Every foot shorter is critically important. Wire has sharp bends going over the foundation. And wire is bundled with other non-grounding wires. That wire must go through the foundation and down to earthing electrodes. More electrodes means the protector is even more effective.

Myths promote protectors as protection to naïve consumers. Protection is where hundreds of thousands of joules dissipate. The earthing electrode is the art of protection. Protectors are simple science. A protector that does not have a short connection to earth is best called wasted money.

Every incoming wire must connect to earth before entering. Some wires need no protector to have even better protection. For example, the cable TV wire must connect directly to the same earth ground. Also must be a short (ie ‘less than 10 foot’) connection. If that wire enters without the low impedance (ie ‘less than 10 feet’) connection, then all other protection is compromised.

Protection is about earthing. Every incoming wire must first connect to that earth ground. Some wires need no protectors (ie cable TV, Satellite dish). Other wires must make the same as short connection via a ‘whole house’ protector (ie AC electric, telephone). Protection is always about where hundreds of thousands of joules dissipate. A protector is only as effective as the quality of earth ground that only the homeowner is responsible for providing.
 
I have a Intermatic PanelGuard that I installed myself.

I have a lot ham equipment and can't afford any surges.
 
Several years ago we had a sales rep come in to show us his line of suppressors, etc.. (We were a systems integrator for several PLC manufacturers and provided various industrial controls). Toward the end of his presentation he showed us an interesting unit that was built to easily be installed between the electrical meter and base. A few of us thought that would be a good & simple solution for our homes. Unfortunately I've forgotten the name of the products that made it....
 
Originally Posted By: Touring5
Several years ago we had a sales rep come in to show us his line of suppressors, etc.. (We were a systems integrator for several PLC manufacturers and provided various industrial controls). Toward the end of his presentation he showed us an interesting unit that was built to easily be installed between the electrical meter and base.


And that is electrically same as one installed in the breaker panel. Never think for one minute that a protector works by blocking or stopping a surge. None do that. A protector is simple science. Should have less of your attention. Most attention should have focused on this sentence:
> Critical is how that protector connects hundreds of thousands of joules to that earth ground.

Protection is never found in any protector. Protection is always about where hundreds of thousands of joules dissipate. Even the wire from a protector to earth is critical. Sharp bends mean compromised protection.

That ‘behind the meter’ protector can even be installed by the electric company. But only a building owner is responsible for the only item always required in every layer of protection. Single point earth ground. Earthing to only meet code is often insufficient. Earthing must both meet and exceed post 1990 code.

Too many buy protectors as it they will magically stop a surge. Or magically absorb hundreds of thousands of joules. Ineffective protectors are quickly identified. 1) No dedicated wire for the short (ie ‘less than 10 foot’) connection to earth. 2) Manufacturer avoids all discussion about earthing.

A protector for AC mains must meet one important requirement. A typical lightning strike is 20,000 amps. So the ‘whole house’ protector must be at least 50,000 amps. Protectors that fail during any surge are ineffective. Meanwhile, every talk about a protector should discuss the most important system component: single point earth ground.
 
Westom, the poster asked about whole house surge protectors installed in the breaker panel.

We are assuming the house had the panel grounded as per National and local electrical codes and in which there was at least a #6 guage or larger ground wire going to a ground rod.

In our neighborhood, all powerlines are uderground with the center tap of the transformer secondary grounded at the transformer pit and an additional but buried ground rod at the house.

I define surges as short period overvoltages. These short period overvoltages need to be clamped and dissipated as close to the breaker panel as possible. It doesn't hurt to also have surge protectors at electronic appliances as well, but we should not expect these surge protector power strips to do the whole job of absorbing these surges, which is why it is a good idea to have a breaker panel surge protector as well. In other words, a series of protection devices from source to device is better than none.

A direct lightning stike on an above ground overhead powerline close to the house is a tough nut to protect against. The "at-meter" location should provide an additional layer of protection, but is no guarantee of complete dissipation of the strikes energy.

http://www.eeel.nist.gov/817/pubs/spd-anthology/files/Divert surges.pdf

Even an indirect but close lightning strike can induce high voltages into the inductive house wiring which may take out appliances not protected.
 
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Originally Posted By: MolaKule
In our neighborhood, all powerlines are uderground with the center tap of the transformer secondary grounded at the transformer pit and an additional but buried ground rod at the house.

Irrelevant is if incoming wires are overhead or underground. Same type surge still seeks earth destructively via appliances. Same service entrance (secondary) protection is required. And primary protection is installed by the utility.

Only reason a 'whole house' protector might not provide sufficient protection: earthing only meets and does not exceed code requirements. For example, if the 6 AWG ground wire goes up over the foundation and down to earth, then protection has been compromised. Connection has sharp wire bends over the foundation. Induces surges on adjacent non-grounding wires. And is unnecessarily too long. Sufficient to meet code. Insufficient for superior protection. Protection means that wire is better routed through the foundation and down to single point earth ground.

Electronic design standards 40 years ago required 600 volts without damage. Today’s electronics will withstand higher voltages without damage. Properly earthing a ‘whole house’ protector means no such voltage should be anywhere inside the building. Protection inside appliances should be more than sufficient. But only if earthing is properly upgraded / installed.

E-M fields can induce high voltages on wires. For example, a 100+ foot long wire antenna was maybe 30 feet from a lightning strike. Thousands of voltage induced on a wire designed to maximize induced voltages. Connect an NE-2 neon glow lamp to that antenna lead. By conducting milliamps through the glow lamp, voltage drops from thousands to tens. Induced surges are that easily made irrelevant.

Induced surges are made irrelevant by protection that already exist inside electronics. A homeowner’s primary concern is a transient that might occur maybe once every seven years.

Destructive surges are current sources. As long as that current is diverted ‘low impedance’ (ie less than 10 feet’) to single point ground, then that current generates trivial voltages. Anything that might obstruct that current (ie long wires from receptacle to earth ground) results in significant voltages. Critical to keeping that voltage low is the low impedance (ie as short as possible 6 AWG wire) to single point ground. And earthing upgraded to exceed code requirements.

A typical 20,000 amp lightning strike is why a minimal ‘whole house’ protector starts at 50,000 amps. Why earthing must both meet and exceed post 1990 code requirements. And why every incoming wire (cable TV, telephone, satellite dish, Ham antenna leads) must connect short to the same earth ground at the service entrance.
 
A surge protector is an appliance that protects electrical devices from spikes in voltage. The surge protector clamps or shorts the voltage to ground when voltages rise above a safe level. Many power strips have a built-in surge protectors as well, usually MOV's and or transient suppressors.


In addition to lightning strikes, surges can occur from within the home due to motors and other inductive devices in appliances turning off.

AS far as Amateur radio equipment and antenna grounding, the grounding system is much more complex, but that is a much discussed topic on other websites.

Here is some very useful information on grounding:

http://www.mikeholt.com/newslettersArchive.php?list=GB-HTML&back=articlecategories.php

If in doubt about your breaker or fuse panel ground you should consult an electrician.

Surge protection device are only as good as the serice entrance grounding.
 
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