Which JB Weld

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I have a couple of SS sheet metal screws that have stripped out of a aluminum ping pong table.

Planning on coating the holes and screws with the JB Weld and screw in the screws. The bracket will be clamped so no force on the screws until the JB Weld cures.

Or I could cost the holes then let that cure to give the screws something to bite into, then coat the screws and screw them in.

Which JB Weld at my local Home Depot?
 
I have a couple of SS sheet metal screws that have stripped out of a aluminum ping pong table.

Planning on coating the holes and screws with the JB Weld and screw in the screws. The bracket will be clamped so no force on the screws until the JB Weld cures.

Or I could cost the holes then let that cure to give the screws something to bite into, then coat the screws and screw them in.

Which JB Weld at my local Home Depot?
The original formula would be the strongest bond for your proposed application.

ORIGINAL JB WELD
 
The original is best if you can wait.

I have actually done what you are doing, and after an hour when once it sets turn the screw 1/4 out then 1/4 in. When it hardens after 24 hours you can take the screw in and out if you really need to.
 
Bolts up through the ping pong table would work but would cause ball to bounce funny if it hit the bolt.
 

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Sheet metal screws? I would wonder about just using the next/next larger size screw.

Otherwise, the original JBW is more durable than the quick set.

However the way I'd do it, is fill the hole, with a backing on the hole if it would run out, let it set 24hrs, drill a little undersized pilot hole, then screw the sheet metal screw in... or rivet nuts as Trav mentioned, or just increase hole size, brass insert, regular machine thread fastener instead of sheet metal.

On the other hand it might help to see the pieces being joined, maybe just throw a rivet in it or a bolt and nut on the other side? Is this just being made whole to use, or being *restored* to original condition?
 
Now I see those pics. You just need to attach that reinforcement brace to the table? If so, just move the brace a little (maybe rotate the bracket 180' for more clearance away from the existing holes?) and drill new undersized holes for the screws? -OR- if alignment is critical, bolt or sheet metal screw on a scrap piece of metal over the span of all the stripped out holes, then put new undersized holes where the original hole lines up... or as mentioned in my last post, rivet it?

Another option, drill out the bracket slightly, then oversized screws.

Do you have access to the other side of the hole? If not, epoxy isn't going to work well if what I'm seeing is a big void behind the hole so you can't keep the epoxy contained.
 
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The bracket needs to go in at that exact spot as it's part of holding the legs properly as the table folds down.

I am hoping smearing some JB Weld around the hole and on the threads will be enough.
 
Does it need to come back apart? I am wondering why it is apart as if this is part of the storing it away and if so, coating it all in epoxy prevents that from happening, no?

If it never needs to come back apart, you may not even need the screws, just score the surfaces with sandpaper and bond with the epoxy... considering it's only a ping pong table, not going to suffer a whole lot of stress or hurt someone if it comes apart.

I've achieved really strong bonds on clean metal, using less expensive adhesives than epoxy... typical construction adhesive, especially the polyurethane types, are quite strong once cured, but take a lot longer to cure a larger area, than epoxy does.
 
The bracket was off so I could get the JB Weld in and around the holes using a paper clip. Then bracket was put back on, held on with 2 C-clamps, then SS screw threads covered with more JB Weld and screwed into the holes.
 
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