Which 1 - Maxlife regular or synthetic??

[Ramblin Fever]

I'm currently running regular maxlife 10w-30, truck is in need of an oil change pretty soon, and living in Colorado, I've decided I like the 5w30 in the winter on this HLA vehicle - Isuzu Rodeo 3.2L V6

But, I've read that the 5w30 synthetic is actually thicker then regular 10w-30.

But, if it were your truck, sitting at 163k miles, only a VERY VERY slight weep at the valve cover gaskets and running like a champ - no other leaks of any kind. Would you run regular 10w-30, or synthetic 5w/10w-30??

Obviously, I would like to keep it leak free as long as possible.

What exactly IS the difference between the two anyways?? I have read so many posts on this particular oil, and nothing appears very different.

Thank you, all replies are welcome.

 

[mikemc]

The 5w30 synthetic is going to have better cold cranking properties than the dino 10w30. Cold cranking ability is more important in a Colorado winter than any minor differences at operating temp.

 

[mikemc]

BTW, I just poured my 5 free quarts

of 5w30 Maxlife syn into the wife's Cavalier in preparation for winter.

 

[m2200b]

I thought the maxlife syn is group 111 and the maxlife regular was a group 11 with 10-15% PAO.

 

[Ramblin Fever]

So, is the regualar maxlife actually the better one?

 

[unDummy]

Either will work fine. I prefer synthetics regardless of formula.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

I would not switch to synthetics at 163K... even 100K. Doing so could stir-up ticks and added consumption. Not because synthetics are bad -- just because your engine may be dirty.

 

[Ramblin Fever]

Quote:

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just because your engine may be dirty.

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Even with having used synthetics - i.e. Rotella synthetic 5w-40 several times in the last 2yrs, Havoline synthetic blend 5w30 for the last 3 winters.

I'm not doubting what you're saying, but I should hope with every 3k oci changes, having run Havoline 10w-30 for it's first 148k miles, followed by Rotella synthetic and Havoline synthetic blend that it should be as clean as it could be.

Not so, though, huh?? Let me know what you think after having read this protocal - seriously, I am curious what you think, I am also the original owner.

 

[Drew99GT]

At operating temp - 200 degrees or so, the Maxlife synthetic is a hair thicker. It's ACEA A3 rated; more of a European type oil viscosity wise. But when it's well below 0, you'll be happy there's 5w30 in the crankcase - whether it be synthetic or regular Maxlife!

Heck, if I lived in the mountains full time, I'd consider a 5w-20 or 0w-20. I've seen it at 20 below at my parents cabin near Fairplay many times and much much colder than that on occasion.

 

[Ramblin Fever]

Oh yeah, you bet - Fairplay! Holy-schmokes does it get cold up there round that open valley.

Definitely going to do the 5w30, was researching more on the #'s today, but should I do the regular or synthetic??

I have regular in it now, and I have to say, the engine's so quiet, I have accidently started it when it was already running - oooops!

My thinking is the synthetic will hold viscosity better with possible fuel dilution issues, which appear to be more present in the winter time.

I tried a REAL short round of Motorcraft 5w-20 before, engine grew REAL loud, seems to have an audible preference for the 30-40wt oils.

For instance, regular 5w30 Havoline sets of a ticking frenzy, whereas it appears to love the Havoline synthetic-blend 5w30 = so who knows.

 

[Ramblin Fever]

Alright, since no one could really say which was the better one, regular or synthetic.

I went with the regular 5w30 in the 5qt jug, but since this truck takes almost 6 qts and there wasn't an individual 5w30 qt available. It's getting a qt of the 10w-30 regular as well.

Seems there is very little, if any difference between the regular (which some label as a blend) versus the synthetic, so I didn't see the need to pay $4.84/qt of the synthetic versus 5qt/$13.93 regular.

 

[FordSVTGuy]

Good choice. This is a great value for $14...