Just got a new 11 Malibu last week. Should I change the factory fill oil at
500 miles?
1000 miles?
3000 miles?
Thanks
500 miles?
1000 miles?
3000 miles?
Thanks
When to dump the factory fill oil
- Thread starter tangojetta
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Oh No!
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Your going to get a thousand different opinions on this one. Like asking what kind of oil to use thereafter.
Personally I go 500-1000 on OEM factory oil. BUT technically you can further. But thats just me.
Jeff
Personally I go 500-1000 on OEM factory oil. BUT technically you can further. But thats just me.
Jeff
Last edited:
You are going to get all kinds of answers on this, i'm in favor of early changes. I do that with all my ope. I have not owned a brand new car so i really have no real experience. If and when i buy a brand new car, i will change it as soon as i get home! Wear metals will be higher in a new engine, leaving them in does not make sense to me. Some people feel there is a special oil in the car and changing it out early will be bad for the engine. Its up to you, either way if you take care of the care in the long run its going to last.
I have changed our last four new cars at ~1K.
I think that the gross break-in wear has ended by then, and like to get all of the metal out.
OTOH, every car built in the past four or five decades has a full flow oil filter, which filters out any paricles large enough to cause damage.
I doubt whether those who leave the FF in for an entire regular OCI have any shorter engine life than I do, I'm just a litle OCD.
I think that the gross break-in wear has ended by then, and like to get all of the metal out.
OTOH, every car built in the past four or five decades has a full flow oil filter, which filters out any paricles large enough to cause damage.
I doubt whether those who leave the FF in for an entire regular OCI have any shorter engine life than I do, I'm just a litle OCD.
Originally Posted By: tangojetta
Just got a new 11 Malibu last week. Should I change the factory fill oil at
500 miles?
1000 miles?
3000 miles?
Thanks
What does the owner's manual say?
Just got a new 11 Malibu last week. Should I change the factory fill oil at
500 miles?
1000 miles?
3000 miles?
Thanks
What does the owner's manual say?
Originally Posted By: spasm3
Wear metals will be higher in a new engine, leaving them in does not make sense to me.
So, we're assuming that the filter is no good at taking them out of the equation?
Wear metals will be higher in a new engine, leaving them in does not make sense to me.
So, we're assuming that the filter is no good at taking them out of the equation?
I am an early and frequent changer.
But 2-3k is very safe now. It may even have break in advantages along with cost and waste savings.
But 2-3k is very safe now. It may even have break in advantages along with cost and waste savings.
5K miles on the factory oil.
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: spasm3
Wear metals will be higher in a new engine, leaving them in does not make sense to me.
So, we're assuming that the filter is no good at taking them out of the equation?
Sure, the filter will get the ones bigger than 10 microns. I doubt that in most modern engines you will find large particles. If someone here posts a uoa with high wear metals do we recommend they leave the oil in? Why would a new car be different?
Originally Posted By: spasm3
Wear metals will be higher in a new engine, leaving them in does not make sense to me.
So, we're assuming that the filter is no good at taking them out of the equation?
Sure, the filter will get the ones bigger than 10 microns. I doubt that in most modern engines you will find large particles. If someone here posts a uoa with high wear metals do we recommend they leave the oil in? Why would a new car be different?
Check out the factory fill oil analysis's here on BITOG. I believe it will make you want to get the factory fill out pretty darn quick.
Hermann
Site Donor 2023
On my Tacoma I did changes at 3K,6K,10K and every 5K since. No oil use and had a super UOA at 25K.
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
I like to change early but not earlier than 1500-2000. 2-3k miles is what I usually do. How do you like the Malibu?
I was thinking around the 1k mark. We are liking the Malibu alot, we look at all the mid size 4 cyclinder cara when we slected the Malibu. But in the end price became to be the big factor. Sonta, Accord, and Camry were only going to come down 2-3.5k from msrp. The Chevy dealership came down $8200 from msrp.
I like to change early but not earlier than 1500-2000. 2-3k miles is what I usually do. How do you like the Malibu?
I was thinking around the 1k mark. We are liking the Malibu alot, we look at all the mid size 4 cyclinder cara when we slected the Malibu. But in the end price became to be the big factor. Sonta, Accord, and Camry were only going to come down 2-3.5k from msrp. The Chevy dealership came down $8200 from msrp.
Hi.
I have only changed factory fill with 2 vehicles I own because I bought them new. Both my NSX and ZX-10R have gotten their factory fill removed within 30 minutes. I mainly do this because I want to get rid of the metal particles as soon as possible; this happens within that 30 minute/mile window. That's my definition of engine break in: when the engine has deposited all those metal particles into the oil. Then I just change it.
It's a combination of habits and habits at work; at work we also do this right after we build our engines. To make sure that the piston rings seat and seal correctly, and to remove major metal particles from recirculating inside the engine as it is run.
But you can't really go wrong with the owner's manual. Because my logic demands that you run your vehicle as hard as you can, as fast as you can, while varying the engine speed as best as you can. This flies in the face of, to my knowledge, every single owner's manual out there haha. But remember, they are written to err on the side of caution and to prevent any cases of premature engine problems. However, in my opinion, today's tolerances are good so I don't have to worry.
Both the NSX and ZX-10R run well and don't burn oil per se (I mean ICE engines do burn oil by design...it's just not noticeable)
I have only changed factory fill with 2 vehicles I own because I bought them new. Both my NSX and ZX-10R have gotten their factory fill removed within 30 minutes. I mainly do this because I want to get rid of the metal particles as soon as possible; this happens within that 30 minute/mile window. That's my definition of engine break in: when the engine has deposited all those metal particles into the oil. Then I just change it.
It's a combination of habits and habits at work; at work we also do this right after we build our engines. To make sure that the piston rings seat and seal correctly, and to remove major metal particles from recirculating inside the engine as it is run.
But you can't really go wrong with the owner's manual. Because my logic demands that you run your vehicle as hard as you can, as fast as you can, while varying the engine speed as best as you can. This flies in the face of, to my knowledge, every single owner's manual out there haha. But remember, they are written to err on the side of caution and to prevent any cases of premature engine problems. However, in my opinion, today's tolerances are good so I don't have to worry.
Both the NSX and ZX-10R run well and don't burn oil per se (I mean ICE engines do burn oil by design...it's just not noticeable)
Originally Posted By: spasm3
Sure, the filter will get the ones bigger than 10 microns. I doubt that in most modern engines you will find large particles.
If the particles are small enough to get through the filtering media, then they're rather harmless, IMO.
Quote:
If someone here posts a uoa with high wear metals do we recommend they leave the oil in? Why would a new car be different?
You're throwing two different issues here into the same basket: metals due to break-in and metals due to an engine problem. The fact that you have metals in your oil does not necessarily mean that they're causing additional wear. There is usually some other thing at play that causes these metals to appear. In case of break-in, it is perfectly normal. Now, if you have a car with 100K miles and you still have high metals, that's a different story. You know your engine is not breaking-in anymore, so you need to figure out what is producing these high metals.
There is no proof that I'm aware of that would show that not dumping the factory fill early will cause premature engine death. But then again, we're all BITOG'ers here... anal about oil. If it makes us sleep better at night, do it.
Sure, the filter will get the ones bigger than 10 microns. I doubt that in most modern engines you will find large particles.
If the particles are small enough to get through the filtering media, then they're rather harmless, IMO.
Quote:
If someone here posts a uoa with high wear metals do we recommend they leave the oil in? Why would a new car be different?
You're throwing two different issues here into the same basket: metals due to break-in and metals due to an engine problem. The fact that you have metals in your oil does not necessarily mean that they're causing additional wear. There is usually some other thing at play that causes these metals to appear. In case of break-in, it is perfectly normal. Now, if you have a car with 100K miles and you still have high metals, that's a different story. You know your engine is not breaking-in anymore, so you need to figure out what is producing these high metals.
There is no proof that I'm aware of that would show that not dumping the factory fill early will cause premature engine death. But then again, we're all BITOG'ers here... anal about oil. If it makes us sleep better at night, do it.
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