Hey guys, I had the transmission in the F150 replaced with a factory rebuilt model about 9700 miles ago. How soon should I be looking at changing the fluid? I kinda screwed up the last transmission, which I'm guessing is partially due to the lack of fluid changes on my part. Also, should I just drop the pan and replace the 5 or 6 quarts in there, or should I have it completely drained (Something like 14 quarts)? Thanks!
When to change fluid on newer transmission?
- Thread starter renegade_987
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Default is always what the manual says. That being said, what I have always done with transmissions that are non sealed and can be checked by dipstick, is to just do a drain and/or pan drop every 30K and top off.
Flushes are just too much of a mixed bag and I have never seen any one place do it the same as another, always a different way of doing it.
Flushes are just too much of a mixed bag and I have never seen any one place do it the same as another, always a different way of doing it.
I'd think that you have enough mileage on it to go ahead and drop the pan.
You should find a layer of metallic goop at the bottom of the pan that you otherwise wouldn't be able to get out of the system.
I have a 1998 F-150, I've placed a Magnefine filter on it, and later a full flow spin on filter. It works like a champ, and will catch any of the particles in the transmission keeping it cleaner.
I change out the filter about once a year, keeps the ATF clean fresh and replenished too.
If you are handy, I'd recommend it.
If not, drop the pan, and do another drain and fill via cooler line every 20,000 miles or so. Should keep stuff in tip top shape.
You should find a layer of metallic goop at the bottom of the pan that you otherwise wouldn't be able to get out of the system.
I have a 1998 F-150, I've placed a Magnefine filter on it, and later a full flow spin on filter. It works like a champ, and will catch any of the particles in the transmission keeping it cleaner.
I change out the filter about once a year, keeps the ATF clean fresh and replenished too.
If you are handy, I'd recommend it.
If not, drop the pan, and do another drain and fill via cooler line every 20,000 miles or so. Should keep stuff in tip top shape.
Jordan_FX4
$50 Site Donor 2022
Owner's manual calls for a pan drop w/filter change every 30k. However, changing it early may be a decent idea to help get rid of the break in materials and then follow the owner's manual from there with a good Mercon V fluid.
Personally I just do it once a year(about 20k for me) and so far my 4R75 still shifts nice and firm at 164k.
Personally I just do it once a year(about 20k for me) and so far my 4R75 still shifts nice and firm at 164k.
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I had the tranny replaced on my Accord and did the first fluid change at 30K miles. I probably should have done it sooner since my shop initially put in generic ATF which I learned about much later. I think changing the fluid every 15-20K miles is a good idea for a rebuilt unit.
Most wear in an AT occurs in the first 10-15,000 miles from new, and I assume a factory rebuilt would be similar. Change it now and change the filter, too. Install a drain plug in the pan and do a drain & fill every 30,000 miles (more often if you tow, plow snow, or haul a heavy load regularly) and you'll be golden.
I have a Ford Taurus with 189k, I think I've changed the fluid about 5 times now, about every 35-40k. First time I did it, the magnet at the bottom of the pan was filled with metal shavings, the last time I did it, there was hardly any at all so yes, most of the wear comes from when it's new.
Kestas
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I would change the fluid now. The transmission is broken in.
Transmission fluid maintenence is almost more important than engine oil maintenence.
Transmission fluid maintenence is almost more important than engine oil maintenence.
I agree with you. Get all of that build and break in debris out ASAP. The only thing that I would suggest is a double flush with the new fluid with some running in between to circulate it. More expensive but cheaper than the transmission.
I would replace at 10k miles and then follow what the ford manual says.
Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
Most wear in an AT occurs in the first 10-15,000 miles from new, and I assume a factory rebuilt would be similar. Change it now and change the filter, too. Install a drain plug in the pan and do a drain & fill every 30,000 miles (more often if you tow, plow snow, or haul a heavy load regularly) and you'll be golden.
Where did you get that information?
Most wear in an AT occurs in the first 10-15,000 miles from new, and I assume a factory rebuilt would be similar. Change it now and change the filter, too. Install a drain plug in the pan and do a drain & fill every 30,000 miles (more often if you tow, plow snow, or haul a heavy load regularly) and you'll be golden.
Where did you get that information?
Originally Posted By: MarkM66
Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
Most wear in an AT occurs in the first 10-15,000 miles from new, and I assume a factory rebuilt would be similar. Change it now and change the filter, too. Install a drain plug in the pan and do a drain & fill every 30,000 miles (more often if you tow, plow snow, or haul a heavy load regularly) and you'll be golden.
Where did you get that information?
It has been posted here several times over the years. There may have also been photos to back it up. Not that it matters but my experiences over the years also indicated that the most junk came out of the tranny pan on the first pan drop, even early pan drops. So for me, even if there isn't actual studies and factual data that some people request it is a safe A$-$umption its true, at least for me.
Happy New Year!
Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
Most wear in an AT occurs in the first 10-15,000 miles from new, and I assume a factory rebuilt would be similar. Change it now and change the filter, too. Install a drain plug in the pan and do a drain & fill every 30,000 miles (more often if you tow, plow snow, or haul a heavy load regularly) and you'll be golden.
Where did you get that information?
It has been posted here several times over the years. There may have also been photos to back it up. Not that it matters but my experiences over the years also indicated that the most junk came out of the tranny pan on the first pan drop, even early pan drops. So for me, even if there isn't actual studies and factual data that some people request it is a safe A$-$umption its true, at least for me.
Happy New Year!
Maybe Jim Allen will pipe in, as he is the member that posted research results showing high early particle counts on transmissions.
However, Jim's data is quite old and I wish we had data on today's new trannies to see if manufacturing techniques have improved. Maybe we can change our OCI's on trannies like we have on engines??
On a rebuilt unit, I would follow more aggressive maintenance as suggested above. Ford used to install Magnifine filters with rebuilds, but I am pretty sure they no longer recommend that.
However, Jim's data is quite old and I wish we had data on today's new trannies to see if manufacturing techniques have improved. Maybe we can change our OCI's on trannies like we have on engines??
On a rebuilt unit, I would follow more aggressive maintenance as suggested above. Ford used to install Magnifine filters with rebuilds, but I am pretty sure they no longer recommend that.
On a rebuilt Ford Tranny, Drop the pan and change the filter and all the fluid between 5-10k. Add 2 bottles of Red lubeguard with the new fluid. Then, depending on how you use your truck, heavy towing change every 20k, normal driving every 30k thereafter and 1 bottle of Red lubeguard. Ford did stop installing Magnifine filters because people didn't change them.
I had a good filter setup on my Expedition. It also offers an optional pressure gauge and valve to perform line off fluid exchanges.
The bolts to the frame rail making changing the filter and fluid easy. Not the cheapest but is well worth the money IMHO.
http://www.dieselsite.com/dieselsitetransmissionfiltersystemford1994-199773l.aspx
The bolts to the frame rail making changing the filter and fluid easy. Not the cheapest but is well worth the money IMHO.
http://www.dieselsite.com/dieselsitetransmissionfiltersystemford1994-199773l.aspx
Originally Posted By: Trav
I had a good filter setup on my Expedition. It also offers an optional pressure gauge and valve to perform line off fluid exchanges.
The bolts to the frame rail making changing the filter and fluid easy. Not the cheapest but is well worth the money IMHO.
http://www.dieselsite.com/dieselsitetransmissionfiltersystemford1994-199773l.aspx
I like it. Reading through their site they comment about adding an external filter w/o a bi-pass valve. After reading their comments it seems risky to install an inline filter. Which is why I never did it. Am I missing something?
From their site: Another type of unit that we have seen being sold is a full flow unit WITHOUT a bypass valve. These are the most common aftermarket kits because of cost factors. These are also the most dangerous to be running. When the filters are plugged, there is NO return fluid flow to the transmission and no way to allow for it. Because is has no bypass valve you cannot monitor the filter's condition. You run a high risk of burning up the transmission from a dirty filter.
I had a good filter setup on my Expedition. It also offers an optional pressure gauge and valve to perform line off fluid exchanges.
The bolts to the frame rail making changing the filter and fluid easy. Not the cheapest but is well worth the money IMHO.
http://www.dieselsite.com/dieselsitetransmissionfiltersystemford1994-199773l.aspx
I like it. Reading through their site they comment about adding an external filter w/o a bi-pass valve. After reading their comments it seems risky to install an inline filter. Which is why I never did it. Am I missing something?
From their site: Another type of unit that we have seen being sold is a full flow unit WITHOUT a bypass valve. These are the most common aftermarket kits because of cost factors. These are also the most dangerous to be running. When the filters are plugged, there is NO return fluid flow to the transmission and no way to allow for it. Because is has no bypass valve you cannot monitor the filter's condition. You run a high risk of burning up the transmission from a dirty filter.
I like the large spin on filter with the pressure gauge, a quick look will tell you if the filter needs to be changed, a quick and easy job.
They can provide other lines or info about where to get them for newer or other models.
They can provide other lines or info about where to get them for newer or other models.
Yep, two answers to a new trans, either get a cooler line filter installed right away to catch the built-in and break-in contamination, or dump the oil within 5K miles. Test statistic show the average automatic generates 75% of it's lifetime amount of contaminants in the first 5K miles or less. Most of them are in the range of 5-80 um in size and 82 percent of those are larger than 5 um. You can filter 'em or you can drain 'em but getting them out is conducive to longer trans and fluid life. My preference is filtration because that wastes less oil, allows longer OCIs down the road and basically helps the tranny all it's life.
That Dieselsite filter is a nice setup. Lots to like ... optional DP gauge & fluid change vale, bypass built into the base, etc. I would prefer a more efficient filter. Plus they are not clear about the efficiency of the filter. Is it 22 um absolute, 22 um nominal or what? I basically agree 22 microns (at whatever spec) is lots better than an 80-100 um pad or mesh filter in the pan and a definite step up, but I prefer better efficiency. Or known efficiency at least.
Racor LFS AT filter kit uses a 10 um absolute, synthetic media spin on filter with a built in bypass filter. The Racor isn't offered with a DP gauge but the base has five ports (to on either side of the fitler and one central) so you could fab up a DP gauge. I added a valve to mine so I could do fluid samples. The Racor filter is used OE on some European MD trucks with automatics.
Overall, in a do-over, I'd get the Dieselsite unit with the gauge and valve but research a better filter.
That Dieselsite filter is a nice setup. Lots to like ... optional DP gauge & fluid change vale, bypass built into the base, etc. I would prefer a more efficient filter. Plus they are not clear about the efficiency of the filter. Is it 22 um absolute, 22 um nominal or what? I basically agree 22 microns (at whatever spec) is lots better than an 80-100 um pad or mesh filter in the pan and a definite step up, but I prefer better efficiency. Or known efficiency at least.
Racor LFS AT filter kit uses a 10 um absolute, synthetic media spin on filter with a built in bypass filter. The Racor isn't offered with a DP gauge but the base has five ports (to on either side of the fitler and one central) so you could fab up a DP gauge. I added a valve to mine so I could do fluid samples. The Racor filter is used OE on some European MD trucks with automatics.
Overall, in a do-over, I'd get the Dieselsite unit with the gauge and valve but research a better filter.
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