When do you start using High Mileage oil?

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quote:

Originally posted by Triple_Se7en:
High Mileage's are better than conventionals.

Enlighten me!
San Exxon products the High Mileage's are just thicker w/a splash of additives that can be found in many conventional and synthetic blend oils.....the basic synthetics ( I use that loosely) like WalMart/Havoline/Motocraft have tons more for less money.....Teach me and show me the error of my ways....I will submit a fella utilizing a 5w30 conventional could get the same results with a 10w30 or 10w40 conventional....and save some coin....or one could add VSOT to his present mix and exceed anything a High Mileage oil offerds...once again for less money....
 
quote:

Originally posted by Nickdfresh:
Well, my seal leak is very small. I think it's called the upper-valve cover gasket? Basically, just a small film of oil on the engine, no real drips or anything.

Valvoline MaxLife worked on our Suburban to minimize smoke from the valve seals. If it's something so simple as a valve cover gasket, it might stop just by tightening the hold down bolts. Worst case, unless it's some nightmare to get at, just change it. Seems a much more logical soultion than changing oils to stop the leak.
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I didnt say they were...read my post again....I said a fella could get the same results going from a 5w30 conventional to a 10w30 or 10w40 conventional...I am saying the add packs in todays off the shelf dino's have plenty of detergents and conditioners and that the High Mileage's are overpriced for the small amount of add pack "boosters" one pays for......I go on to say ( or tried to
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) for the cost you can get the same or better "boost" in a conventional with a VSOT or just a syn blend.....How can you or anybody else just say " High Mileage's are better"...better for what? Stopping leaks....oil consumption...what? Wouldnt one be better served for the above scenarios going up a weight in viscosity or adding a VSOT to acheive the exact same deliverables? All can be acheived without leaving the dino world....I think High Mileage's are overpriced for what you get...
I guess my bottom line is this.....
High Mileage oils are only good if you have a problem to begin with and have nothing to do with the amount of miles.....if I have 150K on a well maintained vehicle I probably dont have the symptoms that the High Mileage's are tageting...and furthermore if I have "problems" such as oil consumption or small leaks...I would repair versus pour a "quick fix" ala STP into the sump....and I remain convinced if I was going to ignore or should I say refuse to repair ( for whatever reason) I could get as much of a "fix" by raising the viscosity or adding a bottle of VSOT and achieve the same results as paying for 6 quarts of High Mileage. IMHO of course
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[ March 19, 2006, 09:53 PM: Message edited by: sgtgeek ]
 
I got a Honda that has a leak (1 quart per 2000 miles)....but in my case, I just find it easier/cheaper to add oil then to fix an old car.

I perfer 10w30 HDEO like Delo or Rotella T over any High Mileage oil.
 
A thicker High Mileage oil is a good choice for someone who wants an oil that's thicker than a conventional, but not quite as thick as the next grade.
Depends on the brand.
Nothing to get drawn up into battle formations about, just use it or don't.
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Well, I'm not paying over $3 a bottle for it. That should be the price of a semi-synthetic, actually, I think I could get M1 for only a little more money than that at one time...

If I catch it on sale, of in a bulk price for a four-quart container, we'll see...
 
I have got about 5 oil changes for free from Maxlife rebates, so I think it is harder to find a better oil for the price. All the High Mileage oils I look at say it is perfectly safe to use in any vehicle, including new vehicles, and I have had no problems so far. I think the general statement based on analysis is that High Mileage oils tend to be a little more robust in the additive package. If I can find them for free or at a similar cost to dino I don't see the harm. If you think they are bunk don't use them.
 
The problem is that the SAE grading scale is TOO wide for each grade and by looking at the bottle one cannot tell if they are getting a (thin) 5w30, a (medium) 5W-35, or a (thick) 5W-39.

High Mileage oils tend towards the thick end of the weight grade and come with a 'bigger' additive package.

I do not think that there is any evidence that seal swellers do any damage to seals in perfect working order.

There is evidence that a more robust additive package is good for engines bot older and newer.
 
I have over 153k miles on my Acura Integra GS-R. I've been using conventional 5w30 with 3750 mile OCIs. I just checked my oil the other day. It's been about 3000 miles since my last oil change... no oil loss whatsoever (oil is right at the max line on the dipstick).

Not saying that High Mileage oils aren't worth the extra price for cars that may need the additional additives, but for me it doesn't make sense.
 
Hey, Supetech HM is $6.68 for a 5 quart jug. I've already bought 3. I'm turning into a Supertech stasher. I just have a panic oil is going to go way up.
 
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