What's Harder On Modern Coolant... Time Or Miles?

I never worried about that, because a lot of places just dump it down the sewer. So that's what I do, and have been doing for the last 50+ years. And from what I've heard from a lot of people, that's not the environmental disaster a lot of people like to make it out to be.

We don’t have sewers here.
 
Thanks for that video. However, assuming no electrolysis going on due to dissimilar metals, this test may miss corrosion that is?
If the cooling system was maintained on time there should be no corrosion, if it was a used car with an unknown maintenance history there may well be corrosion present but checking and replacing the coolant if necessary then checking it before it becomes acidic again will prevent further corrosion.
I have found that adding adding additional ground cables (I use 1" or 1.5" flat tin coated copper braid) really helps in keeping electrolysis to a minimum. This is almost a must with some engines that have a history of failed head gaskets due to corrosion under the head gasket.
 
I never worried about that, because a lot of places just dump it down the sewer. So that's what I do, and have been doing for the last 50+ years. And from what I've heard from a lot of people, that's not the environmental disaster a lot of people like to make it out to be.
It may vary from state to state, or even county to county within states. Here they use to say that but if you look for info now it says not to pour antifreeze down the toilet even if connected to a city sewer system. Flagstaff AZ website says no antifreeze down the toilet. Maybe it's a cover all bases statement, but to know for sure people should call their local hazardous waste management office and ask them directly.


Here's WA ... same thing, no antifreeze down the sewer system.
 
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Prestone markets most of their coolant at 15year/300K miles. What's changed in the coolant? Nothing.
 
It's much the same with "lifetime" transmission fluid.
Yes, as a truck guy always..I adhere to 40k mi fluid swaps/changes. Always use OEM Motorcraft LV fluids. They are synthetic to best of my knowledge. If anyone can expand on newer Motorcraft LV I'd appreciate it.
 
I don't live in a freezing climate, so I never test the freeze / boil protection. On my truck I flush it enough to where it really isn't necessary. However it takes the older, inexpensive green Prestone concentrate.

I have never used test strips. Perhaps I'll try them. They certainly can't hurt. I now have 5 gallons of concentrate for my Jeep, along with 5 gallons of 50/50 premix for my Toyota. So I'll just do as I mentioned. Suck and remove, then refill and drive.

After several "suck & fills", I'm sure the condition of the coolant will be good enough so it will no longer be a concern. On my truck, I'll just keep draining and flushing it like I have been all these years.

It's easy to do because everything is easy to get at. I can even disconnect the overflow tank, drain and flush it with a garden hose while everything else is draining.
Pretty solid basic maintenance. I'm at 3yr pt w/my truck. All looks good. Never added coolant/haven't changed yet . Will def Spring '23 tho. Truck has Motorcraft newer orange type.
 

"What's Harder On Modern Coolant... Time Or Miles?"​

Just change it once in a while to prevent corrosion and other problems. It's not that big of a deal.
 
Five years would be my max on any coolant. For me that would usually be 60 to 75K...less now that I'm retired.
I'll probably change the 10 year/150K recommended coolant in my daughters 2 year old (2021) Mazda in 2 more years which should be about 70K. I'll probably use the OEM brand or the Pentosin A2 concentrate and then do it every 60K afterwards. Coolant is cheap....heater cores, radiators etc....aren't (well they are but labor is expensive.).
 
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