whats deal with dexcool

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Originally Posted By: mechanicx
I've criticized Dexcool as much as anyone, and the one time I mention its positive characteristics when someone asked, it was too much to say anything good about it for at least one poster. Dexcool's corrosion protection and long life is well tested and documented. Anyone questioning that or calling it opinion couldn't have read up on coolants much.


In all that I've read on here about coolants and the threads on Dexcool, you've been one of the most level headed people here.
 
I've run dexcool and dexclones in vehicles for over 10 years without any of them having radiator issues. The radiators were clean in all 5 vehicles. 2 vented overflows did gunk up with dexcool.
 
ah the exposure to air. couple weeks ago i converted from green to Peak Global Lifetime. drained and refilled the rad w/ purified water 4 times over 4 days until it was almost clear, still had a slight green tint. then got 3 qts of the new Peak in, and had to drain it again the next day and 3 more qts in.

i'll drain again into a clean container and get the other 2 qts in and top w/ the drain. that will be 50:50 more or less
 
Sounds like you do a good job of flushing all the old coolant out, but it's hard to say if you will end up with a 50/50 mix draining the coolant/water mix that way. I think you should've drained the radiator one last time of the flush water and that should've gotten close to 50 percent of the water out, then added 1/2 capacity in concentrate.
 
ya i did lose some w/ the 3qts i had to drain on day 2, but got 8 qts PGL in w/ 15 qt system. so yes it might be 60:40 water:PGL
but i think theres 1-2 qts of Prestone extended still in there from the slight green tint before the swap. thanks
 
fwiw i just changed coolant on a 2001 mercury (ford) grand marquis with the 4.6L engine. it had a stuck open thermostat so i ended up doing a coolant change since it has 107k on it. It was green coolant, and I don't know the history of the car so it may have been messed with but there's been a lot of criticism on cooling systems having unpressurized or open to atmosphere coolant recovery bottles and that when coolant flows into it when hot the air in there (oxygen) deteriorates the coolant in the overflow tank and causes sludge and whatnot. Well on this coolant overflow tank on the grand marquis, which is pressurized and the entire cooling system is a closed system, the tank was a disgusting mess inside. The plastic which is translucent white, was all coated on the bottom with greenish brownish sediment and it took me longer to clean that than do anything else. And this was not dexcool coolant!

Quote:
Why? GM says every 5yrs or 100k miles -- you know more than they do? Where did your engineering degree from?


my degree is from rit but just because you have a degree or have an sae certification doesn't mean you're a good mechanic, or good at anything for that matter.
GM has come out with some [censored] over the years and while i don't follow gm history that much i'll use as examples the ford/navistar 6.0L diesel and all it's problems it's had during it's run, and the one i love to use the most is the mercruiser (as in marine) 3.7L model 470 which was an aluminum block with cast iron cylinder head which was the biggest piece of [censored] ever made; so when people say do what the manufacturer says as in they are always right, anybody with clue should be going
smirk2.gif
In fact, didn't the government just bail out GM? Nobody has ever had to bail me out financially like that, so yes I guess I do know better than GM.

and to get back on topic, for the original question of should i use dexcool/deathcool, yes. You can read about dexcool at www.imcool.com and search on my username for other links i've posted about the issue. Dexcool has had problems in certain applications which there is a logical reason for and has been fixed, and in the vast majority of other engines any coolant problems are caused by other things and it is not soley the fault of dexcool and would most likley happen with any antifreeze. So use dexcool, unless it costs you significantly more $$$ to obtain but it shouldn't, it's readily available at walmart and as cheap as the supertech or no-name brands which i will argue is better than those per the following:

this is what i've learned from various sources such as NARSA, imcool.com, motor magazine and others, and be warned this is limited information that i know of;
all antifreezes are ethylene glycol & water, where they differ is in the additive package which provides the corrosion protection, alkalinity, etc.
I believe although not entire sure, that most of the antifreezes today use sebacate as one of the additives, and this is compatible with all the other additives is my understanding. Here's how they differ,

*dexcool uses 2-eha in addition which differentiates it, dexcool is silicate and phosphate free and whether silicates & phosphates make it incompatible I'm not fully sure but i tend to believe they do because i gotta believe there is some merit to the warning behind mixing coolants,

* asian formula's use phosphates, instead of silicates and 2-eha;

* g-05 uses low amounts of silicates and no phosphates no 2-eha.

so from this perspective you can easily see how they are not compatible. But how can you buy prestone, zerex, supertech antifreeze that says compatible with all makes & models ? well they cheap out on the additives and use only the common denominator, maybe just sebecate, and they claim silicate and phosphate free (and to claim 2-eha free would be way too technical). And this example is by no means complete, it's just an example from what limited information i've come across from what i believe are reputable sources over the years.
All the antifreeze makers claim proprietary additives, which i think is b.s. for the most part, but is the main reason why no one understands what the [censored] is going on with antifreeze these days, it's a fear tactic along with withholding information to force you to by their product.
 
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
I've criticized Dexcool as much as anyone, and the one time I mention its positive characteristics when someone asked, it was too much to say anything good about it for at least one poster. Dexcool's corrosion protection and long life is well tested and documented. Anyone questioning that or calling it opinion couldn't have read up on coolants much.


+1

You definitely helped make up my mind on my two issues, using both its positives and negatives. As you explained to me, essentially, the application is the key (along with proper maintenance and so forth).
 
Thanks, you're welcome. I did a lot of reading and searching to find out for myself and so I tried to pass on the best info I could find.
 
Originally Posted By: 1 FMF
fwiw i just changed coolant on a 2001 mercury (ford) grand marquis with the 4.6L engine. it had a stuck open thermostat so i ended up doing a coolant change since it has 107k on it. It was green coolant, and I don't know the history of the car so it may have been messed with but there's been a lot of criticism on cooling systems having unpressurized or open to atmosphere coolant recovery bottles and that when coolant flows into it when hot the air in there (oxygen) deteriorates the coolant in the overflow tank and causes sludge and whatnot. Well on this coolant overflow tank on the grand marquis, which is pressurized and the entire cooling system is a closed system, the tank was a disgusting mess inside. The plastic which is translucent white, was all coated on the bottom with greenish brownish sediment and it took me longer to clean that than do anything else. And this was not dexcool coolant!


The '01 Ford cars original were filled with Green.Ford says only use Green or G-05 can be used. G-05 and Green and Dexcool for that matter are generally compatable but it's best to get a full refill of one or the other. Green needs to be changed every 2 years. If it's not changed it will turn brown and sludge that's true. When people say Dexcool doesn't tolerate air they are saying that it will wreak havoc in specific situation withingn a few 1000 miles if air was trapped and you have an iron engine especially. It's a little bit different of a phenomenon.

Quote:
Quote:
Why? GM says every 5yrs or 100k miles -- you know more than they do? Where did your engineering degree from?


my degree is from rit but just because you have a degree or have an sae certification doesn't mean you're a good mechanic, or good at anything for that matter.
GM has come out with some [censored] over the years and while i don't follow gm history that much i'll use as examples the ford/navistar 6.0L diesel and all it's problems it's had during it's run, and the one i love to use the most is the mercruiser (as in marine) 3.7L model 470 which was an aluminum block with cast iron cylinder head which was the biggest piece of [censored] ever made; so when people say do what the manufacturer says as in they are always right, anybody with clue should be going
smirk2.gif
In fact, didn't the government just bail out GM? Nobody has ever had to bail me out financially like that, so yes I guess I do know better than GM.

and to get back on topic, for the original question of should i use dexcool/deathcool, yes. You can read about dexcool at www.imcool.com and search on my username for other links i've posted about the issue. Dexcool has had problems in certain applications which there is a logical reason for and has been fixed, and in the vast majority of other engines any coolant problems are caused by other things and it is not soley the fault of dexcool and would most likley happen with any antifreeze. So use dexcool, unless it costs you significantly more $$$ to obtain but it shouldn't, it's readily available at walmart and as cheap as the supertech or no-name brands which i will argue is better than those per the following:

this is what i've learned from various sources such as NARSA, imcool.com, motor magazine and others, and be warned this is limited information that i know of;
all antifreezes are ethylene glycol & water, where they differ is in the additive package which provides the corrosion protection, alkalinity, etc.
I believe although not entire sure, that most of the antifreezes today use sebacate as one of the additives, and this is compatible with all the other additives is my understanding. Here's how they differ,

*dexcool uses 2-eha in addition which differentiates it, dexcool is silicate and phosphate free and whether silicates & phosphates make it incompatible I'm not fully sure but i tend to believe they do because i gotta believe there is some merit to the warning behind mixing coolants,

* asian formula's use phosphates, instead of silicates and 2-eha;

* g-05 uses low amounts of silicates and no phosphates no 2-eha.

so from this perspective you can easily see how they are not compatible. But how can you buy prestone, zerex, supertech antifreeze that says compatible with all makes & models ? well they cheap out on the additives and use only the common denominator, maybe just sebecate, and they claim silicate and phosphate free (and to claim 2-eha free would be way too technical). And this example is by no means complete, it's just an example from what limited information i've come across from what i believe are reputable sources over the years.
All the antifreeze makers claim proprietary additives, which i think is b.s. for the most part, but is the main reason why no one understands what the [censored] is going on with antifreeze these days, it's a fear tactic along with withholding information to force you to by their product.


I agree with your sentiments. What we found out is that most of the all makes is dexcool and contains 2EHA. G-05 contains benzoate as an OAT and is fairly begign as far as being a plasticizer which 2-EHA is accused of being. Sebacate is mostly only used in Asian OE coolant. It's not really a known quanity for being a plastic eater or not, but it doesn't appear to sludge as much. Texaco Dexcool contained sebacate along with 2eha, but most other brands of Dexcool contain 2EHA but not sebacate and use another inhibitor.

I think Dexcool works fine in models that were validated for it, especially later models. I don't think it is a good idea to put in older models that weren't validated for Dexcool.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
I've criticized Dexcool as much as anyone, and the one time I mention its positive characteristics when someone asked, it was too much to say anything good about it for at least one poster. Dexcool's corrosion protection and long life is well tested and documented. Anyone questioning that or calling it opinion couldn't have read up on coolants much.


+1

You definitely helped make up my mind on my two issues, using both its positives and negatives. As you explained to me, essentially, the application is the key (along with proper maintenance and so forth).



Agreed. I think my Ecotec will be just fine with another round of dexcool..it has served me well so far.
 
Originally Posted By: daves87rs
Agreed. I think my Ecotec will be just fine with another round of dexcool..it has served me well so far.


I couldn't count how many vehicles that I've seen that have used the recommended coolant, yet never changed it for years, and simply had a rusty soup in the radiator. So, I don't think that a coolant that is less than perfect for the application should be a problem, unless there's a good reason not to use it.

Besides, if there were a single perfect coolant for absolutely every application, we wouldn't be here, now would we?
 
At about 111,000 I changed out my thermostat- as it was getting lazy in the open position.
Here is the inside of the engine...
This is a 2003 4200 Inline 6 in my Trailblazer.
At about 133,000 I replaced the upper and lower radiator hoses- and replaced the coolant. Vehicle turned 154,000 this morning.
Radiator still clean as a whistle.
you an actually see the little round balls indentation from the foam casting!!! and this is with 111,000!!

thermo11.JPG
 
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Nice pic. Dexcool no question protects against corossion well. There's really no reason not to use in it a late-model GM that isn't one of the early model problem vehicles.
 
Here is another pic of Dexcool working well.



SierraCoolantBottle.jpg




Dexcool is now 4 1/2 years old and there are absolutely no signs of sludge. I do plan on replacing it with fresh Dexcool soon.
 
Originally Posted By: Zedhed
Originally Posted By: willix
Gasket eaters are being confused with non-coolant changers. Coolant neglect. The vast majority of folks don't think about the coolant until a problem occurs. Thats too late. Dex cool should be changed out every 25 to 30,000mi.


Why? GM says every 5yrs or 100k miles -- you know more than they do? Where did your engineering degree from?


Just because they say it can go 5 years / 100k miles does not mean it will last that long... Those specs are rated in optimum climates. As said, you need to change your coolant, like your oil to your climate and driving situations. Just because it says it can last that long does not mean you should rely on that. It all comes done to changing your coolant and oil before it starts to break down, and fix leaks before they become problems. You need to be proactive about maintenance. I have seen ALL types of coolant go to junk due to lack of maintenance, and it does not require an engineers degree to figure that one out. And to solely trust an engineers way to be 100% true is ignorant to say the least. They are people too, and they make mistakes, or do not fully test things under all situations, because they cannot test every situation.

So the moral of the story, no matter if you are using dexcool, mopar, toyota, honda, nissan, motorcraft, etc, (the same goes for oil) you ignore it, you pay for it later.

Just my 2cents.
 
I have no doubt that Dexcool can go 5 years/150K miles. A lot of testing has shown it can easily do this. The 5y/150K mile change interval for Dexcool is pretty conservative as long as a full change is being done.

What I doubt is that other long life coolant like Japanese coolant can go the recommended 10y/120K miles. I don't see any good reason to believe they protect longer than Dexcool. I think the Japanese coolant recommendation is taking it to the limit and then some. Notice subsequent changes are listed at only 5/60k miles.
 
we have run Dex WAY beyond 100k. Probably beyond 200.

But that mileage occurs over a very short period at 300+ miles per day.

Our standard policy is we do not touch it until it needs some other work on the cooling system, and we have never had an issue with Dex across many trucks.

It should be noted that our trucks have a heat exchanger which adds 2 gallons of volume to the cooling system. We run stock thermostats in a remote housing.
 
The cooling system in my Silverado is also spotless with using dexcool. I was going to switch it over to another coolant a while ago, but have decided to stay with dexcool. Changing it out every few years and keeping the level full, you should have no problems with dexcool.
 
odd, after dex killed my LIM (changing it out every 2-3 years with fresh dex,) the back water pocket was corroded and so was the thermostat tube.
 
Originally Posted By: defektes
odd, after dex killed my LIM (changing it out every 2-3 years with fresh dex,) the back water pocket was corroded and so was the thermostat tube.


When you were changing your coolant, were you using tap water or distilled?
 
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