Whats a good place to have longer spring hangers welded on a landscape trailer?

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Nov 29, 2009
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I don't just want some welder to weld taller hangers on and then the trailer goes crooked because he didn't weld them in the right spot. Maybe like a heavy duty truck shop? I went to a trailer place a few years back and they were totally clueless and the dude just wanted to sell me a new trailer. We'll this trailer is awesome other than them not giving me enough clearance between the axle and the frame. You can see the leaf spring hits the frame in the pic. Virtually no clearance for bumps. Makes for a rough ride

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I’m not sure that it’s that it’s too short, but maybe the very front leaf spring mount is welded too far back, messing up the geometry.
 
I’m not sure that it’s that it’s too short, but maybe the very front leaf spring mount is welded too far back, messing up the geometry.
The left side of the pic is the back of the trailer. Which one are you referring to as the front leaf spring? Couldn't they put some shorter springs, so it's not all bunched together like it is? These are 5200 lb dexter axles
 
Some 2" metal tube risers should take care of that.
Any competent welding shop should be able to mark the existing locations, cut off the hangers, install risers and then reinstall the hangers.
 
It is completely normal for the equalizers (the triangle thing) to rock up/down (back/forward; whatever you want to call it) when the trailer turns and the axles move. The orientation in the photo does not indicate something is wrong other than the fact that it's coming in contact with the main frame. They are called equalizers because that's their job; they balance the forces between the front and rear axles. They are constantly in motion when moving down the road.


Every single time I pull my RV trailer into a camping spot, the equalizers are never the same orientation from side to side; they move when the trailer is turning into final position.
 
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It is completely normal for the equalizers to rock up/down (back/forward; whatever you want to call it) when the trailer turns and the axles move. The orientation in the photo does not indicate something is wrong other than the fact that it's coming in contact with the main frame. They are called equalizers because that's their job; they balance the forces between the front and rear axles.
I don't see anything with wrong with adding longer hangers to give me more frame to axle clearance. Just raise it up another couple inches is all I want so it's not riding on the frame hitting every little bump in the road. I agree with the equilizer thing. It does that when the trailer isn't level. I have the front of the trailer higher right now since it's not hooked to the truck at the moment
 
What might be wrong (can't tell from the single photo) is that one of the leaf springs is compromised (weak or broken) and not carrying the same amount of load and so the equalizer is trying to compensate to an extreme degree. Or a component is worn badly and allows the geometry to be maligned. Also, if the wheels/tires are different sizes, that can also cause the equalizer to have to compensate.


CAUTIONARY NOTE:
If the OP can't adequately diagnose and fix the issue himself, then it's probably best to take it somewhere and have it done. That way the "fix" (and the liability thereof) is on a shop and not the OP, should the trailer fail and cause an accident.
 
What might be wrong (can't tell from the single photo) is that one of the leaf springs is compromised (weak or broken) and not carrying the same amount of load and so the equalizer is trying to compensate to an extreme degree. Or a component is worn badly and allows the geometry to be maligned.
Let's just say I put the trailer perfectly level. I still only have about an inch of clearance between the axle and the frame. I want longer hangers added so I get a total of 3" like you're supposed to. It's been like this since the trailer was new. Stagecoach didn't want to fix it
 
What might be wrong (can't tell from the single photo) is that one of the leaf springs is compromised (weak or broken) and not carrying the same amount of load and so the equalizer is trying to compensate to an extreme degree. Or a component is worn badly and allows the geometry to be maligned. Also, if the wheels/tires are different sizes, that can also cause the equalizer to have to compensate.


CAUTIONARY NOTE:
If the OP can't adequately diagnose and fix the issue himself, then it's probably best to take it somewhere and have it done. That way the "fix" (and the liability thereof) is on a shop and not the OP, should the trailer fail and cause an accident.
I never asked for solutions. The title states where can I take it to have longer hangers welded on.
 
I never asked for solutions. The title states where can I take it to have longer hangers welded on.
Or your springs have lost their arch. Seems like others are right, and something's wrong with your trailer. So don't cobble something together without a full picture of what's going on.
 
Any decent trailer repair shop should be able to do that in a couple hours tops. The labor breakdown will consist of them cutting off the old hangers and clean up/prep for the new hangers and then of course the new welding and primer/painting. While they are in there, you might as well go to a wet bolt/shackle. The trailer repair shops are familiar with the geometry of the springs and hangers. If they even mess up the spacing on where they are mounted on each side, you can have tracking/tire wear issues. That would be my only issue with using another welding shop that doesn't specialize in trailer service/repair.

Have you looked at maybe trying some Sumo springs? I have them on a trailer and they are pretty amazing. That might help the issue you are having and might solve your problem with less trouble.
 
I don't think anything's wrong with the trailer and all those parts including hangers are off-the-shelf in 99.9% of cases.

If you go longer there's obviously more leverage so I'd step up in flat bar thickness or add gussets, which may require more fab so your gussets (run left/right) have somewhere to attach (they may otherwise wind up under the wooden deck). Thicker flat bar may mean the eye bolts are too short, and these are also off-the-shelf but you could find basic graded hardware.

OP wants to know where but he's asking us to have local knowledge. I'd say a local skilled fabricator, 4x4 shop or hotrod shop. Word of mouth is HUGE -<--- understatement. Ask a local Jeep club. This is predicated on OP's statement that he doesn't have a competent trailer specialty builder in his area.

Did I mention word of mouth is huge? I may not have.

If you go too tall with the hangers it may be possible to get into a weird bind/flip/jam situation. I'm not positive as I've never played with this. I can say when I put trailers on my lift the shackles drop out and can wind up inverted. It usually pops itself back into place after a few bumps, assuming an empty (and thus bouncy) trailer.

Trailers are some of THE simplest metal things on the road. The only specialty tools required are a tape measure and the gray matter between your ears (some have less of this unfortunately)
 
For my non-profit I removed tandem 3500s, shoved the axles back 14" to improve handling and welded up new hangers with new springs and tandem 7ks on 16" Load Range E tires. But I never considered lengthening hangers as this just isn't an issue. The trailer tows beautifully with the axles shoved back and I've personally drug it from CO to NC round trip. Point being if I can do it, this ain't rocket science. I still lick windows.
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I then built diamond plate fenders with 1" sq tube framework.
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Lippert makes an adjustable hangar which looks like it may accomplish what you are trying to do.

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They didn't use a longer hangers in the middle on my trailer as shown here. Not sure how critical that is though.
 
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