What to expect/concerns when removing FWD axles?

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I'm looking ahead at replacing all seals on my FWD volvo 850, as I just can't get rid of the rear main leak, and have noticed many other seals weeping. Start-up lifter tick (tried filters w/different ADBV materials to no avail), is also said to be related to failing o-rings that seal the lower sections of the modular engine design, so I will also replace those and those on the shaft mounted oil pump, it's pick-up and the one on the dipstick tube. As much as I don't want to crack things open, this has all been bothersome for the past 2-3 yrs, and could save me well over $1000 (highest quote for rear main seal replacement alone). Heck, I'll be able to go back to synthetic when all is said and done if I so choose without loss.

I've pulled an engine-transmission from a RWD vehicle having drained fluids and gently sliding out the drive shaft from the transmission and covered to prevent contamination, and cleaned/lubed w/ATF prior to re-insertion. Anything special I need to be aware of when removing the drive shafts from a FWD transmission?

I appreciate any feed-back/first-hand accounts that one might have.

Thanks in advance, and take care.
 
To prevent mess, drain your fluid first!
Once the axles are out, use a special tool or piece broom handle [whatever]to keep the spider gears from falling down. You want to insert it so the splined gears don't drop. Otherwise,you may not get the axles back in, and may have to take the transmission apart to fix it!
To get the axles out, use two long heavy prybars or screwdrivers on opposite sides of the inner C/V joint. Pry it out with a quick hard snap /pop. That will release them.
If you have a lot of miles, rebuilt axles with new C/V joints are available as assemblies, and this would be a good time to consider them. They are very reasonable in price.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Once the axles are out, use a special tool or piece broom handle [whatever]to keep the spider gears from falling down. You want to insert it so the splined gears don't drop.


Hum, I must look into this. I'll thumb through the Chilton and Haynes repair books that I have for the vehicle.

Though the axle shaft seals are not showing any leakage issues, it would probably be a good time as well to replace them, no? I don't really want to throw money where it isn't necessary like I did my first car...oh brother, so I'll see how much more I can get out of the CV joints (knock on wood
smile.gif
).

The vehicle is going on 13 yrs of age w/103k miles on the od.

Thanks.
 
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