What things can rust out on a car?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Aug 24, 2011
Messages
168
Location
Charlotte, NC
I have a 2001 Grand Am GT that I purchased in October of 2000 and it has 120k on it. Last year the transmission lines rusted out which caused it to leak transmission fluid and I got that replaced. A few days ago my brakes totally went out without warning while going downhill at 40mph with stopped traffic in front of me. The brake lines failed because of rusted lines, to make a long story short I got most of the brake lines replaced.

My question is what else can go wrong with the car because of rust? Can my fuel lines go? Can power steering lines go?

I just want to know what to expect. I don't use the car alot, but try to use it once every 7 days and drive it maybe 6-8 miles when I do. I know short distance is hard on a car but I am strapped at the moment.

So what else can go wrong regarding rust?
 
First congrats on not crashing!

Yes all these lines can rust out!

Likely condensation built up in your brake & transmission lines which caused them to rust. This can happen from not changing the fluid, or simply not driving the car long enough for water to boil off.
 
In a salt-belt area, everything metal on a car can rust if it isn't cleaned regularly or undersprayed.

With short trips, condensation will rust out an exhaust system usually..don't know if yours has been replaced.

If your car has a metal fuel tank (many are composite these days) the tank seam will often rust out and cause fuel leaks...had that on a few cars. The filler neck can rust out too.

The edges of the fenders, bottoms of the doors, and the sills under the doors will rust badly if not taken care of on a car lik this.

On my 2002 Cavalier, an 'odd' problem I had was the metal around my windsheild started to rust, and the expansion from the rust broke my ws twice in 3 years. Had to get the frame sand-blasted and zinc primered before the last ws went in.
 
randomhero439 said:
First congrats on not crashing!

Yes all these lines can rust out!

Likely condensation built up in your brake & transmission lines which caused them to rust. This can happen from not changing the fluid, or simply not driving the car long enough for water to boil off. [/quote


Thank You, yes it was traumatic for me anyway. I was on a 2 lane road where they were doing construction and my lane of traffic was stopped but luckily no one was coming at me in the opposite lane so I swerved in the opposite lane and threw it down to first gear.

When you say condensation built up in the lines, would this cause the lines to be all rusted on the outside?
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy
In a salt-belt area, everything metal on a car can rust if it isn't cleaned regularly or undersprayed.

With short trips, condensation will rust out an exhaust system usually..don't know if yours has been replaced.

If your car has a metal fuel tank (many are composite these days) the tank seam will often rust out and cause fuel leaks...had that on a few cars. The filler neck can rust out too.

The edges of the fenders, bottoms of the doors, and the sills under the doors will rust badly if not taken care of on a car lik this.

On my 2002 Cavalier, an 'odd' problem I had was the metal around my windsheild started to rust, and the expansion from the rust broke my ws twice in 3 years. Had to get the frame sand-blasted and zinc primered before the last ws went in.



Yes the car spent 10+ years in Northeast Ohio!!!
 
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
His lines rotted from the outside, not from condensation in sealed hydraulic systems.


Exactly, I don't know where the other poster got his info from.

Fuel, brake and power steering lines are the ones that can be affected the most and be a safety issue, as OP already found out.

Everything else exposed to salt and water can rust out as well, it just takes longer. Strut towers can rust out resulting usually in vehicle being scrapped, as it’s hard to repair something like that. Floor beneath the driver and passenger can also rust through. Suspension components, although they take much longer, can result in very costly repairs. The list goes on and on.
 
If the lines have rotted out already, I'd crawl under it and take a good long hard look. Or get someone who is trusted to do so. You may find lots of other corrosion. Maybe not enough to warrent getting rid of it now--but might give some heads-up as to if the next repair is worth it or not. Or if it's time to move on.
 
- Power steering lines (huge problem in the NE)
- Brake
- Fuel
- Metal heater / coolant lines
- Frame
- Control arms
- Floor
- Roof
- Seat Frames


Rust eats EVERYTHING!!!
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
His lines rotted from the outside, not from condensation in sealed hydraulic systems.


Exactly, I don't know where the other poster got his info from.

Fuel, brake and power steering lines are the ones that can be affected the most and be a safety issue, as OP already found out.

Everything else exposed to salt and water can rust out as well, it just takes longer. Strut towers can rust out resulting usually in vehicle being scrapped, as it’s hard to repair something like that. Floor beneath the driver and passenger can also rust through. Suspension components, although they take much longer, can result in very costly repairs. The list goes on and on.



My biggest thing im worried about is reliability. I just need the car to get me from point A to point B. So you think maybe the power steering lines/fuel lines may be the next to go?
 
Originally Posted By: mike7139

My biggest thing im worried about is reliability. I just need the car to get me from point A to point B. So you think maybe the power steering lines/fuel lines may be the next to go?


There is no telling what's going to go next, however since you had this problem with other systems on your car, it's a good indication to get it inspected, either by you or someone professional.
 
My GF just scrapped a 99 Grand Am due to rust. Take a good hard look at the gas tank particularly the top half of it. Use an inspection mirror on a stick and a strong light if you need to. We scrapped the car because the TOP of the tank, where you can't see it, along with all the hard lines connected to it had completely rotted out, and the seam where the two halves of the tank meet in the middle had rotted out also. A mechanic had changed the brake and fuel line bundle last year but never told us that he spliced the fuel lines about a foot from the tank because they were too rotten to be touched without crumbling. New fuel tank plus install on 14 year old car: $1100.
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: mike7139

My biggest thing im worried about is reliability. I just need the car to get me from point A to point B. So you think maybe the power steering lines/fuel lines may be the next to go?


There is no telling what's going to go next, however since you had this problem with other systems on your car, it's a good indication to get it inspected, either by you or someone professional.


Wonder if they cover this during vehicle inspection? I still have my out of state plates on my car and never had to do an inspection with Ohio. I know in NC, vehicle inspection is required.
 
The brake lines are normally first. I hope you got the brake lines replaced with ones that are a copper alloy.

Fuel lines can also go. So can the transmission.

So can the frame.

Someone needs to take a look.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
The brake lines are normally first. I hope you got the brake lines replaced with ones that are a copper alloy.

Fuel lines can also go. So can the transmission.

So can the frame.

Someone needs to take a look.


Don't know what kind of lines they used but I can tell you that it cost 700 dollars(400 bux labor alone) for those brake lines and brand new back brakes/rotors from Midas. It also cost me 300 dollars last year for those tranny lines when I took it to the dealer.

These replacement parts are cheap but its the labor that hurts.
 
Originally Posted By: Steve56
My GF just scrapped a 99 Grand Am due to rust. Take a good hard look at the gas tank particularly the top half of it. Use an inspection mirror on a stick and a strong light if you need to. We scrapped the car because the TOP of the tank, where you can't see it, along with all the hard lines connected to it had completely rotted out, and the seam where the two halves of the tank meet in the middle had rotted out also. A mechanic had changed the brake and fuel line bundle last year but never told us that he spliced the fuel lines about a foot from the tank because they were too rotten to be touched without crumbling. New fuel tank plus install on 14 year old car: $1100.


Now im starting to get anxiety.
 
Check with a GrandAm specific forum for specifics on the weaknesses that your car has for rust.
Most of the time these topics are discussed to some degree on the forums.
I know where the weak spots are on the cars I own for rust, because I've done some investigation into it.
 
Originally Posted By: mike7139

Wonder if they cover this during vehicle inspection? I still have my out of state plates on my car and never had to do an inspection with Ohio. I know in NC, vehicle inspection is required.


Yeah they do. Tsk tsk tsk.
wink.gif


In fact a North Carlolina mechanic is more likely to run away screaming in terror than one from the rust belt or northeast.
lol.gif


Add gas tank straps to the list. I had one go out a week after my state inspection: It rusted from the tank side outwards through the paint, so looked good until it let go. Let go in front on a front-to-rear strap so that caught on the road and made all sorts of fun noise.

Rocker panels are usually the first thing you see, go, unless they're covered by a plastic beauty shield. Those covers, BTW, just trap water and double down the corrosion. Unfortunately bodies look better than ever after ten years so people don't think to look underneath.

When gas filler necks rust out, this throws EVAP codes. GM W-bodies and some subarus are notorious for this.

I had a dodge radiator where most of the fins on the bottom five inches disintegrated. The tubes still held coolant though and it didn't overheat.
01.gif
 
Some one dropped the ball on maintenance.
Rusted brake lines should have been noticed long before they rotted out.
You don't drive cars until something breaks.
You need another mechanic.
 
Isn't there any kind of annual check on these components in the US?

I know things vary by state but in the UK we have annual MOT tests, part of which checks brake lines for damage and corrosion.

Most of these things are plastic coated these days which helps with this headache.

To the OP plenty of suggestions and advice already in the thread.

I would probably put it up on stands after winter, power wash everything off and get to work with some Waxoyl or similar product, any product really that can protect your undercarriage.

I know when the Clio is getting its clutch done (probably later his year) the subframe has some surface rust that I want to get sorted out.

Will probably get it powder coated.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top