I just bought a 2006 Explorer xls with 32k miles on it. It has the usual 4.0L V-6 SOHC engine. I bought it from a Ford dealer so I'm assuming it came with the Ford recommended oil, 5-30 Motorcraft Syn. blend (I will ask them.) I have no idea who owned it before me although Car Fax claimed it was a one owner vehicle. My last 2 Explorers I bought new and ran Castrol Syntec until they had a lot of miles, and then switched to high mileage synthetics. I can't complain about the results....I had 165k+ on both vehicles, but had a front seal leak on the last one. A dealer told a friend of mine you can switch to synthetic from conventional, but don't switch back to conventional oil from synthetic. I'm not sure I believe that. Some knowledgable folks claim synthetics dry out seals. I'm probably complicating this, and most oils would probably be ok as long as it's changed reasonably often. Any feedback is much appreciated. Thanks!
WHAT OIL SHOULD I USE?
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The Ford oil is great, and very cheap at Wal-Mart (you can get the Ford/Motorcraft filter there as well). Can't go wrong with any modern SM-rated oil these days. My mother-in-law has the same truck, she's at 129K miles right now, runs like a top, used only dealer/Motorcraft oil since new.
The ones I've seen have recommended 5-20 oil, although 5-30 certainly shouldn't hurt anything. We've run a number of different Fords 150-200K using MotorCraft 5-20 or 5-20/5-30 M1, Castrol or Pennzoil with zero issues.
My personal vehicles, all Fords, currently a 5.4L modular and 3.0 V-6, get MC 5-20 semi-syn. SUPPOSEDLY there is a MC 5-20 full synthetic out there, but I've never seen it.
I'm not going to state unequivocally that switching from conventional to synthetic or vice versa won't work, but I've never seen any evidence of it. Supposedly, way back when syns became widely available, there were some problems with leaky seals and stuff, but not anymore.
My personal vehicles, all Fords, currently a 5.4L modular and 3.0 V-6, get MC 5-20 semi-syn. SUPPOSEDLY there is a MC 5-20 full synthetic out there, but I've never seen it.
I'm not going to state unequivocally that switching from conventional to synthetic or vice versa won't work, but I've never seen any evidence of it. Supposedly, way back when syns became widely available, there were some problems with leaky seals and stuff, but not anymore.
Switch types of oil back and forth as much as you like.
crank seal and oil pan leaks are common problems on the Ford 4L V6. not an oil caused problem.
do what you've done on the last 2 Explorers that you have confidence in, Castrol Syntec. worked for 300k miles plus on the 2. expensive oil especially when changed at less than 10k miles OCIs. seldom on sale in this area. ran it for years on 5k OCIs until I started reading BITOG and seeing how much money i was wasting and pouring into Castrol exec's pockets.
if you do 3k>5k OCIs, then use a modern name brand mineral oil with total confidence.
i've switched mine over to 5w20 Havoline or Chev. Supreme on sale for less than $1.50 a qt. the 20w works fine since i no longer tow with it. wear numbers and viscosity are fine. 5K OCIs
the 4L is an easy engine on oil.
the weak Ford auto transmission will die long before the engine
do what you've done on the last 2 Explorers that you have confidence in, Castrol Syntec. worked for 300k miles plus on the 2. expensive oil especially when changed at less than 10k miles OCIs. seldom on sale in this area. ran it for years on 5k OCIs until I started reading BITOG and seeing how much money i was wasting and pouring into Castrol exec's pockets.
if you do 3k>5k OCIs, then use a modern name brand mineral oil with total confidence.
i've switched mine over to 5w20 Havoline or Chev. Supreme on sale for less than $1.50 a qt. the 20w works fine since i no longer tow with it. wear numbers and viscosity are fine. 5K OCIs
the 4L is an easy engine on oil.
the weak Ford auto transmission will die long before the engine
Do not use 5w-20 in that engine. The 4.0 SOHC was one of the few engines not back-speced for it. Stay with the 5w30.
Dr. Haas, who lives in Florida, uses a MC 5w20 oil in his Explorer. Use the thinnest oil possible. The main problem with oil, is that it is TOO THICK to properly flow and lubricate at start up, where 90% of wear occurs. Dr. Haas has a racing Ferrari, as well as an Explorer, and is an expert in motor oils. He has published a very fine series of lectures for us on the internet: If you're worried about 5w20 being too thin, you can mix it 50:50 with 5w30 synthetic, but bottom line, I would say if Dr. Haas uses 5w20 in his Explorer, then that is the exact right oil to use.
linky, for your benefit:
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?s=2...otor_oil_basics
linky, for your benefit:
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?s=2...otor_oil_basics
Originally Posted By: scoobie
Dr. Haas, who lives in Florida, uses a MC 5w20 oil in his Explorer. Use the thinnest oil possible. The main problem with oil, is that it is TOO THICK to properly flow and lubricate at start up, where 90% of wear occurs. Dr. Haas has a racing Ferrari, as well as an Explorer, and is an expert in motor oils. He has published a very fine series of lectures for us on the internet: If you're worried about 5w20 being too thin, you can mix it 50:50 with 5w30 synthetic, but bottom line, I would say if Dr. Haas uses 5w20 in his Explorer, then that is the exact right oil to use.
linky, for your benefit:
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?s=2...otor_oil_basics
Thanks for the recap and review, Scoob. *scooby snack*
Dr. Haas, who lives in Florida, uses a MC 5w20 oil in his Explorer. Use the thinnest oil possible. The main problem with oil, is that it is TOO THICK to properly flow and lubricate at start up, where 90% of wear occurs. Dr. Haas has a racing Ferrari, as well as an Explorer, and is an expert in motor oils. He has published a very fine series of lectures for us on the internet: If you're worried about 5w20 being too thin, you can mix it 50:50 with 5w30 synthetic, but bottom line, I would say if Dr. Haas uses 5w20 in his Explorer, then that is the exact right oil to use.
linky, for your benefit:
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?s=2...otor_oil_basics
Thanks for the recap and review, Scoob. *scooby snack*
Originally Posted By: scoobie
Dr. Haas, who lives in Florida, uses a MC 5w20 oil in his Explorer. Use the thinnest oil possible. The main problem with oil, is that it is TOO THICK to properly flow and lubricate at start up, where 90% of wear occurs. Dr. Haas has a racing Ferrari, as well as an Explorer, and is an expert in motor oils. He has published a very fine series of lectures for us on the internet: If you're worried about 5w20 being too thin, you can mix it 50:50 with 5w30 synthetic, but bottom line, I would say if Dr. Haas uses 5w20 in his Explorer, then that is the exact right oil to use.
linky, for your benefit:
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?s=2...otor_oil_basics
You know, since Ford specifically recommends 5W30 instead of 5W20 in this one engine, which is a German made engine, I would be sure to use the 5W30. Do we know what engine this Dr Haas has in his Explorer? He doesn't seem like the kind of guy who would spring for the cheap engine, when he could've had a V-8, which calls for the 5W20. Is 5W30 that much thicker than 5W20 when it is cold? Since they are both 5W, I would think they are about the same when cold, or the specification is a lie.
Dr. Haas, who lives in Florida, uses a MC 5w20 oil in his Explorer. Use the thinnest oil possible. The main problem with oil, is that it is TOO THICK to properly flow and lubricate at start up, where 90% of wear occurs. Dr. Haas has a racing Ferrari, as well as an Explorer, and is an expert in motor oils. He has published a very fine series of lectures for us on the internet: If you're worried about 5w20 being too thin, you can mix it 50:50 with 5w30 synthetic, but bottom line, I would say if Dr. Haas uses 5w20 in his Explorer, then that is the exact right oil to use.
linky, for your benefit:
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?s=2...otor_oil_basics
You know, since Ford specifically recommends 5W30 instead of 5W20 in this one engine, which is a German made engine, I would be sure to use the 5W30. Do we know what engine this Dr Haas has in his Explorer? He doesn't seem like the kind of guy who would spring for the cheap engine, when he could've had a V-8, which calls for the 5W20. Is 5W30 that much thicker than 5W20 when it is cold? Since they are both 5W, I would think they are about the same when cold, or the specification is a lie.
Originally Posted By: scoobie
Dr. Haas, who lives in Florida, uses a MC 5w20 oil in his Explorer.....Dr. Haas has a racing Ferrari, as well as an Explorer, and is an expert in motor oils. ....I would say if Dr. Haas uses 5w20 in his Explorer, then that is the exact right oil to use.
This Dr Haas fella owns a Ford Expedition, as he mentioned in that article you posted:
Originally Posted By: Dr. Haas
...They cost 2 or 3 times as much as mineral based oils. Never-the-less I use plain Pennzoil multigrade mineral based 5W-20 in my Ford Expedition. This oil is thin enough at startup to have many of the attributes I just mentioned.
Ford Expeditions only have V8s that are spec'd for 5w-20, NOT the 4.0 SOHC that is spec'd for 5w30. I'll say it again: Use only 5w30 for the 4.0.
Dr. Haas, who lives in Florida, uses a MC 5w20 oil in his Explorer.....Dr. Haas has a racing Ferrari, as well as an Explorer, and is an expert in motor oils. ....I would say if Dr. Haas uses 5w20 in his Explorer, then that is the exact right oil to use.
This Dr Haas fella owns a Ford Expedition, as he mentioned in that article you posted:
Originally Posted By: Dr. Haas
...They cost 2 or 3 times as much as mineral based oils. Never-the-less I use plain Pennzoil multigrade mineral based 5W-20 in my Ford Expedition. This oil is thin enough at startup to have many of the attributes I just mentioned.
Ford Expeditions only have V8s that are spec'd for 5w-20, NOT the 4.0 SOHC that is spec'd for 5w30. I'll say it again: Use only 5w30 for the 4.0.
No the specification is not a lie, the SAE allows for these discrepancies.
Before commenting, it is important to actually read Dr. Haas's lecture, and learn. The manufacturer knows much less about oils than do the real experts, who are found on the internet. this is an excerpt from Dr. Haas's lecture:
I personally used 0W-20 Mobil 1 in the 575 Maranello and for the first oil change I drained the Murcielago’s (OEM) 5W-40 Agip and replaced it with 0w30 Mobil 1. The engine became much quieter. A valve tappet noise disappeared. I am now using the 5W-20 Red Line in the Lamborghini. Used oil analysis shows that this oil works well for my non racetrack application. The same oil went into my Maybach 57. My Enzo Ferrari calls for the Shell Helix Ultra racing 10W-60 but I am using the Castrol Syntec European Formula 0W-30. This is different than the easy to find plain 0w30 Syntec. It MUST say European Formula across the front of the label. I buy it at AutoZone stores but it is often mixed with the plain stuff.
You have to try by experimentation what operating oil grade your engine requires. In all cases however, you want the oil that gets least honey-like at startup and thins to the appropriate thickness for normal operation. Always recheck the oil label as they change a lot.
As you can see, what the manufacturer recommends, means exactly squat. However, in order to preserve the warranty, you may wish to use a 0w30, which would have similar or superior cold characteristics to a 5w20. Dr. Haas is using 0w20 and 5w20 oils in vehicles that call for a much thicker weight if you would believe the manufacturer. The manufacturer is specifying oil that would not break down under VERY EXTREME use, but at the expense of cold flow properties. Because the engine wears down 90% during start up, the use of as thin an oil as possible is recommended.
I personally used 0W-20 Mobil 1 in the 575 Maranello and for the first oil change I drained the Murcielago’s (OEM) 5W-40 Agip and replaced it with 0w30 Mobil 1. The engine became much quieter. A valve tappet noise disappeared. I am now using the 5W-20 Red Line in the Lamborghini. Used oil analysis shows that this oil works well for my non racetrack application. The same oil went into my Maybach 57. My Enzo Ferrari calls for the Shell Helix Ultra racing 10W-60 but I am using the Castrol Syntec European Formula 0W-30. This is different than the easy to find plain 0w30 Syntec. It MUST say European Formula across the front of the label. I buy it at AutoZone stores but it is often mixed with the plain stuff.
You have to try by experimentation what operating oil grade your engine requires. In all cases however, you want the oil that gets least honey-like at startup and thins to the appropriate thickness for normal operation. Always recheck the oil label as they change a lot.
As you can see, what the manufacturer recommends, means exactly squat. However, in order to preserve the warranty, you may wish to use a 0w30, which would have similar or superior cold characteristics to a 5w20. Dr. Haas is using 0w20 and 5w20 oils in vehicles that call for a much thicker weight if you would believe the manufacturer. The manufacturer is specifying oil that would not break down under VERY EXTREME use, but at the expense of cold flow properties. Because the engine wears down 90% during start up, the use of as thin an oil as possible is recommended.
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That's because it's a bloody LAMBORGHINI!!!!!!!! It has a top speed in excess of 200Mph, at which point, the LOAD created requires the thick oil!
Contrary to what you seem to believe, the engineers that design these engines are NOT morons. They spec a particular oil due to the intended use of the engine. This is why an engine in a car may call for one oil, whilst the same engine in a truck calls for a heavier oil.
Using the performance cars in question; these cars are often tracked and run hard. This is why the heavier oil is spec'd for them. Obviously, if you drive it like a grandma, you could likely run very much anything in the crankcase with little ill effect.
Contrary to what you seem to believe, the engineers that design these engines are NOT morons. They spec a particular oil due to the intended use of the engine. This is why an engine in a car may call for one oil, whilst the same engine in a truck calls for a heavier oil.
Using the performance cars in question; these cars are often tracked and run hard. This is why the heavier oil is spec'd for them. Obviously, if you drive it like a grandma, you could likely run very much anything in the crankcase with little ill effect.
I think, obviously if a big v-8 is spec's for 5w20, then this would also be the best oil for a little v-6. Read Dr. Haas's lecture, and you will learn that 30 weight is not 50% more viscous than a 20 weight. the difference is actually very little. the most important thing is how does the oil behave when cold. Dr. Haas says that when an engine gets very old and worn, then at that point the 30 weight might be better than the 20 weight. all new engines have very tight tolerances, especially if they are built in germany, and they will last much longer, and wear much less if they are oiled with a thinner oil.
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And he's actually done fleet testing to back this theory up right? You know, like the auto manufacturers do when they built and test their engines?
A little knowledge can be a dangerous thing. The way you are wielding your newfound propaganda is very much proof-in-point of that.
A little knowledge can be a dangerous thing. The way you are wielding your newfound propaganda is very much proof-in-point of that.
I would use any 0W30 or 5W30 syn or regular and adjust the OCI.
As for scoobie, it just isn't true. I can tell you a lot of time goes into engine development. You probably can't imagine the magnitude of data collected during the process. I'm not an expert but those guys know what they are doing just like I know what I am doing at my job and you know what you are doing at your job. Being an engineer myself I tend to believe there was a reason why that particular engine wasn't back spec. to 5W20.
As for scoobie, it just isn't true. I can tell you a lot of time goes into engine development. You probably can't imagine the magnitude of data collected during the process. I'm not an expert but those guys know what they are doing just like I know what I am doing at my job and you know what you are doing at your job. Being an engineer myself I tend to believe there was a reason why that particular engine wasn't back spec. to 5W20.
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Originally Posted By: Junior
I would use any 0W30 or 5W30 syn or regular and adjust the OCI.
As for scoobie, it just isn't true. I can tell you a lot of time goes into engine development. You probably can't imagine the magnitude of data collected during the process. I'm not an expert but those guys know what they are doing just like I know what I am doing at my job and you know what you are doing at your job. Being an engineer myself I tend to believe there was a reason why that particular engine wasn't back spec. to 5W20.
I agree. Or why certain engines spec'd for a 5w30 yield substantially better wear numbers on a 5w40 HDEO, especially forced induction applications. It's not all just "slap 0w20 in there and drive".
I would use any 0W30 or 5W30 syn or regular and adjust the OCI.
As for scoobie, it just isn't true. I can tell you a lot of time goes into engine development. You probably can't imagine the magnitude of data collected during the process. I'm not an expert but those guys know what they are doing just like I know what I am doing at my job and you know what you are doing at your job. Being an engineer myself I tend to believe there was a reason why that particular engine wasn't back spec. to 5W20.
I agree. Or why certain engines spec'd for a 5w30 yield substantially better wear numbers on a 5w40 HDEO, especially forced induction applications. It's not all just "slap 0w20 in there and drive".
How come you always throw a wet blanket over all of my newly discovered revelations: I really enjoy finding out all these new things about motor oil from the experts on the internets, and Dr. Haas says that you should try the oil out, and decide for yourself, after careful study of the published properties, and review of the literature.
Originally Posted By: scoobie
I think, obviously if a big v-8 is spec's for 5w20, then this would also be the best oil for a little v-6. Read Dr. Haas's lecture, and you will learn that 30 weight is not 50% more viscous than a 20 weight. the difference is actually very little. the most important thing is how does the oil behave when cold. Dr. Haas says that when an engine gets very old and worn, then at that point the 30 weight might be better than the 20 weight. all new engines have very tight tolerances, especially if they are built in germany, and they will last much longer, and wear much less if they are oiled with a thinner oil.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the typical oil clearance in a journal bearing somewhere between 0.0015 and 0.0035 inch. And that hasn't changed for a long long time.
I think, obviously if a big v-8 is spec's for 5w20, then this would also be the best oil for a little v-6. Read Dr. Haas's lecture, and you will learn that 30 weight is not 50% more viscous than a 20 weight. the difference is actually very little. the most important thing is how does the oil behave when cold. Dr. Haas says that when an engine gets very old and worn, then at that point the 30 weight might be better than the 20 weight. all new engines have very tight tolerances, especially if they are built in germany, and they will last much longer, and wear much less if they are oiled with a thinner oil.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the typical oil clearance in a journal bearing somewhere between 0.0015 and 0.0035 inch. And that hasn't changed for a long long time.
No, I actually believe the engineers are exceptionally clever. But the recommendation for motor oil is mainly a marketing ploy.
We're told that all of the North American recommendations for 5w20 oil, when you go to England or Europe, of Japan, or anywhere other than North America, these exact same engines call for 5w30 or 10w30 or even 10w40. This is because in Europe, the marketing strategy is to fool the consumer in thinking that if the engine needs a "heavy oil", then this must be a "heavy duty engine", and if it only calls for a "light" oil, then the engine must be very "light" and will break down easy. North Americans are not fooled so easy, so they actually tell us the right oil to use, mostly, except where there has been a misprint, or some other anomaly.
We're told that all of the North American recommendations for 5w20 oil, when you go to England or Europe, of Japan, or anywhere other than North America, these exact same engines call for 5w30 or 10w30 or even 10w40. This is because in Europe, the marketing strategy is to fool the consumer in thinking that if the engine needs a "heavy oil", then this must be a "heavy duty engine", and if it only calls for a "light" oil, then the engine must be very "light" and will break down easy. North Americans are not fooled so easy, so they actually tell us the right oil to use, mostly, except where there has been a misprint, or some other anomaly.
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