Hey guys im ill be moving from california to texas here in a few months so ill be towing my junk down there. I have a 2002 Tacoma that currently uses Amsoil Series 3K and so far i love this oil. Since ill be towing and i know by the time i move its going to be **** hot out there can i use the Series 2000 for better fuel milage or should i stick to what im using? Thanks.
What oil for towing
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If your not due for a change keep it in . If you are due for a change I don't think the series 2000 is cause less or more wear. Since you are towing the impact of viscosity on fuel mileage is going to be insignificant. If you have life left in the S3K I would leave it in and change it when you get to blazing Hades..I mean Texas.
have you ever towed with your taco? I've done a bunch and normally get the best mpg when i'm just shy of 65 and/or about 2200 rpm in my 5pd taco. the 5z motors are really easy on oil. change it out wehen your mileage or time is up.
if its a auto then you may want to invest in a hayden or similiar stacked plate trans cooler. trd also has a kit but it is pretty $$$.. i use a hayden 1678 on my 01 4Runner after the rad cooler and you can really feel the temp difference in the hose temp after a trip. it was around $60 or so with some extra hose. good luck and be careful.
tranny cooler install
if its a auto then you may want to invest in a hayden or similiar stacked plate trans cooler. trd also has a kit but it is pretty $$$.. i use a hayden 1678 on my 01 4Runner after the rad cooler and you can really feel the temp difference in the hose temp after a trip. it was around $60 or so with some extra hose. good luck and be careful.
tranny cooler install
I too am moving this summer. I will be moving from Chicago to San Francisco. I have a 2000 Camry (LE). 120k miles. I will have 125-130k by the time I move. I currently run Penz Plat (wtih LC and FP). It has had synthetic in it since I got it (with 45K miles on it). Do you guys have any recommendations? I will be changing the oil shortly before I leave. I also run LC in the transmission.
I will be towing approximately 2000 LBS. I also plan on driving with the Overdrive off (any thoughts on this) I will probably be doing about 70 mph most of the drive.
I plan on getting a trans cooler. Is there anything else that I need to think of?
Thanks guys!!!
I will be towing approximately 2000 LBS. I also plan on driving with the Overdrive off (any thoughts on this) I will probably be doing about 70 mph most of the drive.
I plan on getting a trans cooler. Is there anything else that I need to think of?
Thanks guys!!!
oh yeah....its a 4-cyl
Take a sample prior to leaving. Take another after arriving, or, wait a few months. Don't know what part of state you're moving to, but where a few of us live (including Terry; North Central Texas) we're in drought conditions.
I'd stick with owners manual recommendations unless you plan to do a lot of idling.
Anything faster -- towing -- than 55 is foolhardy. 62-65 on a road where traffic is always more than 100-yards away in both directions. Tail wags the dog: a 2,000-lb trailer can flip a 6,000-lb truck. An extra day or half-day en route won't hurt a thing much less matter a year from now.
I drove OTR and was speed-limited. Speed matters little once mature thinking clicks in. 600 miles/day is plenty when towing.
Enjoy the trip.
I'd stick with owners manual recommendations unless you plan to do a lot of idling.
Anything faster -- towing -- than 55 is foolhardy. 62-65 on a road where traffic is always more than 100-yards away in both directions. Tail wags the dog: a 2,000-lb trailer can flip a 6,000-lb truck. An extra day or half-day en route won't hurt a thing much less matter a year from now.
I drove OTR and was speed-limited. Speed matters little once mature thinking clicks in. 600 miles/day is plenty when towing.
Enjoy the trip.
Yes, take it slow. A 2000# trailer can flip a 4-cylinder car in nothing flat, and it only takes a second to do so - a minor gust of wind, a tap of a brake at the wrong timing, blown out tire, you name it.
I tow a 4000# boat with a V6 mid-size SUV and have never, nor would I ever go over 60 tops; now I have seen 65mph when I didn't expect to do so, and backed off the throttle a bit.
But that SUV weighs in at 6000# and the boat weighs more then half, could flip that truck easy.
Back in the early 90's that same boat was being hauled by our then '79 Chevy Scottsdale 3/4 4x4 350 V8(don't remember what it weighed though) and the truck had a blow out on the rear passanger tire, took ALL we had, 4 hands on the steering wheel, knuckles white, faces red, sweat pouring out instantly to coax that truck safely to a stop. Felt like it took HOURS as the boat begin fishtailing and wanted to take the truck in a hop-a-long roll down into the irrigation ditch.
Our speed - 55mph, no wind and a heavy truck.
We, nor the boat flipped, but we still remember that, and we'll never forget it.
I tow a 4000# boat with a V6 mid-size SUV and have never, nor would I ever go over 60 tops; now I have seen 65mph when I didn't expect to do so, and backed off the throttle a bit.
But that SUV weighs in at 6000# and the boat weighs more then half, could flip that truck easy.
Back in the early 90's that same boat was being hauled by our then '79 Chevy Scottsdale 3/4 4x4 350 V8(don't remember what it weighed though) and the truck had a blow out on the rear passanger tire, took ALL we had, 4 hands on the steering wheel, knuckles white, faces red, sweat pouring out instantly to coax that truck safely to a stop. Felt like it took HOURS as the boat begin fishtailing and wanted to take the truck in a hop-a-long roll down into the irrigation ditch.
Our speed - 55mph, no wind and a heavy truck.
We, nor the boat flipped, but we still remember that, and we'll never forget it.
If the trailer is wagging, then just ease off of the throttle. A speed (55-62 mph) that one can "ease off from" is the key.
Improper load balance is the reason.
http://www.sherline.com/lmwkshet.htm
http://www.sherline.com/lmbook.htm#refrn23
http://www.klenger.net/arctic-fox/weight/index.html
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/Equipment/towing/index.htm
http://www.motorcycletrailer.com/mag1/DMVlinks1.html
What you "recall" is the admonition, with electrically-activated trailer brakes, to go WOT with the trailer brake control jammed over to fully on, fully engaged to cause the trailer to track straight. It is a last minute, desperation tactic, tends to ruin the trailer tires, and damages the trailer brakes.
I forgot to add above that the tires (all of them, tow vehicle and trailer) need to be less than 6-years old, have no evidence of sidewall or tread damage, and balance out properly.
The brakes of both should be examined, cleaned and relubricated prior to adjustment.
The electrical system should be checked with a SNAP-ON scan tool, and (my preference) all exterior lamps replaced.
Xtra-brite trailer lights are a real, real good idea. The headlights need to be re-aligned for nose-high attitude (unless one is using a weight-equalizing hitch).
The cooling system should be flushed out, and the ATF and PSF changed/serviced.
Oil & filter are a good idea, but lubing the chassis, checking alignment for positive wheel return, and having an excellent spare tire and some flares or warning triangles is better.
Improper load balance is the reason.
http://www.sherline.com/lmwkshet.htm
http://www.sherline.com/lmbook.htm#refrn23
http://www.klenger.net/arctic-fox/weight/index.html
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/Equipment/towing/index.htm
http://www.motorcycletrailer.com/mag1/DMVlinks1.html
What you "recall" is the admonition, with electrically-activated trailer brakes, to go WOT with the trailer brake control jammed over to fully on, fully engaged to cause the trailer to track straight. It is a last minute, desperation tactic, tends to ruin the trailer tires, and damages the trailer brakes.
I forgot to add above that the tires (all of them, tow vehicle and trailer) need to be less than 6-years old, have no evidence of sidewall or tread damage, and balance out properly.
The brakes of both should be examined, cleaned and relubricated prior to adjustment.
The electrical system should be checked with a SNAP-ON scan tool, and (my preference) all exterior lamps replaced.
Xtra-brite trailer lights are a real, real good idea. The headlights need to be re-aligned for nose-high attitude (unless one is using a weight-equalizing hitch).
The cooling system should be flushed out, and the ATF and PSF changed/serviced.
Oil & filter are a good idea, but lubing the chassis, checking alignment for positive wheel return, and having an excellent spare tire and some flares or warning triangles is better.
Chicago to SF with a 4 cyl towing a ton?? You're going to have a real adventure crossing the Rockies and the Sierra Nevada. Do your self a favor and rent a UHaul Truck and tow the car.
I suspect your current engine oil is just fine. If it is over 1/2 its normal life, then change it before the trip. In both cases change it after the trip. I like to change my engine oil immediately after a long trip (same day as arrival) because all the crud is in suspension and drains right out with the change.
However, if you have towed anything before, or your vehicle is more than 4 years old, before you tow this load to Texas, get the tranny oil and differential oil changed. And you should consider getting the tranny oil and differential oil changed again after arrival.
I also recommend having the brake fluid completely flushed and having the pads and rotors/drum checked before leaving.
However, if you have towed anything before, or your vehicle is more than 4 years old, before you tow this load to Texas, get the tranny oil and differential oil changed. And you should consider getting the tranny oil and differential oil changed again after arrival.
I also recommend having the brake fluid completely flushed and having the pads and rotors/drum checked before leaving.
We had a hitch installed on our 03 Camry 4 banger, and made over a dozen trips from Calif to here. Thats over the highest pass on I-5. No problems, no overheating. The trans fluid did darken and I changed it.
Thanks man and yes i do have a tranny cooler (TRD) after my stock one with redline D4 synthetic atf and a remote tranny filter setup with a filter magnet to make filter changes easier.
Man stick with the Series 3000 it's a beefier oil. You should have no problems. As far as fuel economy, there's not much you can do. It's gonna suck regardless when pulling a trailer.
Good points. I remember seeing an over turned SUV attached to a trailer in a 40 mph zone.
**Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought I heard that if you start to feel the rear end wagging, one should increase speed rather than slow to help settle it down.**
Also make sure the hitch is fully secure, to have proper trailer balance/tongue weight (100 pounds tongue for every 1,000 pounds in trailer weight IIRC), make sure the tongue's locked down and safety chains crossed under the tongue, tie-downs are periodically checked for keeping things secure and tires are in good shape (spare and changing tools?).
As others have said, take your time, be safe, and enjoy the trip.
**Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought I heard that if you start to feel the rear end wagging, one should increase speed rather than slow to help settle it down.**
Also make sure the hitch is fully secure, to have proper trailer balance/tongue weight (100 pounds tongue for every 1,000 pounds in trailer weight IIRC), make sure the tongue's locked down and safety chains crossed under the tongue, tie-downs are periodically checked for keeping things secure and tires are in good shape (spare and changing tools?).
As others have said, take your time, be safe, and enjoy the trip.
Thanks man.
I'm sure you know this, but consult with your manual or dealer to make sure you choose the right transmission selector setting for this trip.
If you were in a Chevy I'd know what to say, but I got no clue what a Toyota manual would tell you to use when towing.
And about the oil, listen to msparks. You might be able to find an oil better than Amsoil S3K, but if you did, it wouldn't be MUCH better.
If you were in a Chevy I'd know what to say, but I got no clue what a Toyota manual would tell you to use when towing.
And about the oil, listen to msparks. You might be able to find an oil better than Amsoil S3K, but if you did, it wouldn't be MUCH better.
Just wanted to thank you guys for all of your recommendations. Looks like I'll be travelling with my father in law, who will be towing a fifth wheel. Just having somebody on the trip will be nice. Looks like we'll also be travelling at 55-60 MPH, except in the Rockies, where I'm sure we'll be travelling even slower. He'll also have all of the safety requirements, such as flares, triangles, etc. I do have a spare that is in excellent condition, so I should be in good shape there. The tranny fluid was changed recently, so no worries there (also running LC in the tranny fluid).
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