What is the correct way to use banjo bolt washers?

Owen Lucas

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I'm replacing the calipers, brakes, and brake lines on my 05 Scion tC. The calipers nor the brake lines came with banjo bolt washers. Toyota wants to charge $16 per side and they won't be available until Tuesday.

I went to Auto Zone and got a doorman kit which came with 4 pairs of different sized copper washers. The 4 pairs have slightly different external circumferences but the inner diameters are the same. Only 1 pair matches the original aluminum (?) washers external circumference, the remaining are slightly larger.

My question is, can I use the slightly larger washers or do they have to match perfectly? Also, the washers have a flat and rounded side. Does it matter which component I place the flat side on?

Doorman Washer Kit
4 different washer sizes.jpeg

Matching Washer
Matching Washer.jpeg



Larger Washers (1).jpeg


Larger Washers (2).jpeg


Rounded and flat surfaces
Rounded and flat surfaces.jpeg


The lip on this washer concerns me.
Flat Surface.jpeg
 

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  • Larger Washers (2).jpeg
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looks like the cheapest casting with no touch up.
then again its copper it should crush down and not leak?
you could always hit that lip with a file for 5seconds.
 
The O.D. is pretty much irrelevant unless it's too big that it doesn't fit in the space. Just re-read your post and you confirm that the I.D.s are the same and that's what matters the most.

File down the lip like Rand says.
 
File down the lip. Doesn't really matter for the type of washer you posted, but true crush washers are supposed to be installed flat side towards the bolt, rounded side towards the brake line, or whatever you're sealing. You'll know pretty quick if the washers aren't holding pressure.
 
This type of crush washer is directional.

crush washer.jpg

This type is not and can be installed either way.

crush washer 2.jpg

The linked double in picture is for ease of installation during assy only and has no relevance to sealing. I keep one of these sets just for jobs like this, the washers are good and seal well, they do not crack the material is very malleable. If the I.D on the copper ones you have will be fine use them.

 
IIRC the Dormans are 60 thou, which is all I'll trust. Sometimes Sunsong (sp?) brake hoses will include 30 thou washers which just can't crush enough and they leak. The 30's go straight in the scrap bin.
 
I keep an assortment of crush/sealing washers that my vehicles use.

View attachment 155916

I buy these in bulk from McMaster-Carr (https://www.mcmaster.com/); search for "sealing washers".

The only ones I have to get from the manufacturer are the special Toyota seal washers (arrow) and the rubber GM drain plug washers.
Nice organized set up.

Mine are still in plastic bags from the move. Takes me a awhile to find them!
 
What's the deal with that ? Is the "link" malleable enough that you can adjust them without breaking the link ?
It is but after it is installed if it broke it would make no difference. Saab also used them on the 06 models but on the 02-04 did not, they used 2 separate washers, the part they are used on is the same.
 
If you want an all-around assortment this Dorman kit ain't bad, although it doesn't include the larger (16mm?) Subaru crush washers. I got mine for $50 on Warehouse Deals a few years ago:

If you just want copper washers, SUR&R assortment-- try maybe Summit Racing
 
Never ever under any circumstance over tighten a banjo bolt. I know NOTHING about that. 🤬
I think the right torque for copper is 18-20 ft lbs. Alu is supposed to be less. A good reason for me to buy an in lb torque wrench 😀.
 
New fuel filters for the Legend come with factory type copper washers for the banjo and pressure tap plug. These things never seal unless really reefed on. The banjo bolt needs a special socket. Open end wrench on the flats results in skinned knuckles.

20230514_140204_resized.jpg
 
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