What is a good Harley Davidson (mechanical) forum?

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Sep 20, 2014
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I am diagnosing an intermittent FI problem w/my dad’s touring bike. Looking for a DIY on FI diagnosis and not finding one.

I have had Harleys myself, worked on them a lot, but not in a while and not an FI one before. What is a good forum to use where I can ask relatively specific mechanical questions and get good, knowlegable replies? I see quite a few forums and am not sure what to pick.
 
What year is it ?, is it the old Magna- Morreli fi system ?. More info will get more reply's.,,,
It’s an early Delphi (2002) Ultra. Symptoms are intermittent low power, usually when hot, typical of a failed sensor input to the ecm; trying to deduce what sensor w/o replacing them all (can’t find diagnostic tree/specs).
 
Ok so, how many miles are on the bike ?. Has it had any engine work done to it ?. How often is the bike ridden ?. Has it been serviced recently ?. Is the gas fresh ?. In 21 years things can go bad. You may have leaking seals around the FI intakes. Or a coil that's on the way out. A plugged up gas tank vent. If the bike has sat for a while, the fuel injectors might be gummed up. The fuel pump or filter could be ready to give up. There are some things to check.,,,
 
But manifold o-ring's can still dry out with a carb, and cause weird lean running conditions. Lack of use is what I see in alot of these type of posts. Bikes over 15 yeas old with no miles on them, then when they start to get used, have all sorts of issues. Leaks are very popular, as well as fuel issues.,,,
 
Ok so, how many miles are on the bike ?. Has it had any engine work done to it ?. How often is the bike ridden ?. Has it been serviced recently ?. Is the gas fresh ?. In 21 years things can go bad. You may have leaking seals around the FI intakes. Or a coil that's on the way out. A plugged up gas tank vent. If the bike has sat for a while, the fuel injectors might be gummed up. The fuel pump or filter could be ready to give up. There are some things to check.,,,

It’s well used and not a garage queen. 88k miles. Big bore kit w/cam and PC3, well-maintained. Typical symptoms of bad MAP or coolant sensor - runs fine sometimes, but then hard start, lean condition, low power, poor idle. As the conditions matched perfectly, and it was a few minutes to do, I replaced the temp sensor and it improved - as in it happened less often. Today I installed a new MAP sensor but then didn’t zip it back up fully as I found some dried out and cracking hoses, etc. The MAP sensor was original; it had a 2002 date code on the housing. I started making new ones but then it was super-hot here today so I quit and will zip it up and test-ride it tomorrow.
 
The reason I went with the carb option when I bought my '01 FLHR new, simplicity.

This is true; but the FI models have real virtues, too, which can over the -long run have real pay-offs. I had a unique experience that showed this off. However, in 2001, I *think* the carb option was the better one because that was still the original Magneti-Morelli (sp?) 1st gen FI and it was not as fault-free. 2002 changed things as I understand it with the Delphi system, which was much better.

In 2001 we went to Sturgis, rode out and back from the Olympic Peninsula in WA. I came from the east coast and my dad rented me a 2002 heritage Softail from Destination in Tacoma. First fuelie for that model, first year Delphi. I put about 4k miles on that bike in 10 days and it was a dream (IIRC it had about 300 miles on it when I took off on the trip). That bike got about 10/15 mpg better than the other bikes in the group (Well-tuned Evo dynas mostly), I even skipped fueling sometimes when they had to; IIRC I fueled about 2 out of every 3 fuel stops we had to make. The stock TC 88 ran WELL past those nicely tuned bikes at altitude - we rode at elevations from near-sea level to near 11k feet. Amazing performance for touring use over varying weather conditions and elevations. I loved that bike and ride; would have turned right around and done it again if I didn’t have to return the bike. ;). In fact I was quite popular at the dealership the day I turned it back in (despite the body damage, but that’s another story) - the techs and parts guys were eager to hear how it ran/what I thought. It was one of the very first new (Delphi) fuelies they got in and everyone wanted to know.

I would happily get another carb Evo and tune/tweak it (in fact had my eye on an 80s heritage softail last week). Not being a snob about FI vs. carb at all. But the FI bikes do have a lot to offer, if they do sometimes need some troubleshooting.

My brother has a 2004 FLHTCUI, he bought new late 2003, w/zero issues ever. I know because I called him the other day to say, “Hey help me diagnose dad’s FI issues on that 2002 you gave him” and he said, “Can’t help. Never had any with my bike.” ;)
 
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FI boxes either work or they don't... which usually meaning a fuzzy connection... easy to defined but time consuming to find... basically you have to inspect every wire and every connection like Sherlock Holmes...

BATTERY...
Start with the battery for it's the weakest link in the whole system... To
determine the condition of an Maintenance Free battery give it a
refreshing charge... wait 30 minutes... measure terminal voltage...

12.8 or higher is a good battery...
12.0 to 12.8 is a insufficient charge... recharge...
12.0 or lower... battery unserviceable...

CORROSION...
This process uses two solutions, one is regular table salt and
vinegar. Any kind of vinegar will work, from balsamic, to rice, to
white vinegars. Its the acidity and corrosiveness of the salt and
vinegar together that you want. The other solution is Sodium
Bicarbonate, or baking soda, and water. This is used to neutralize the
corrosive properties of the other solution, and to further clean the
wires.

Step 1: Strip the wires to be cleaned.

Step 2: Get 2 containers, one for each solution. They can be paper
cups, plastic, glass, bowls, whatever you can find. I have vials,
because I am a professional electronics installer and I use these
solutions out in the field.

Step 3: Get 1 tablespoon of raw salt, and put it in one of the
containers. Fill up the rest of the container with vinegar, and stir
the both together. As a general rule of thumb, put as much salt in the
vinegar as will dissolve.

Step 4: Get 1 tablespoon of Sodium Bicarbonate, (baking soda) and add
it to the other container. Fill up the rest with water, and stir well.
Add more baking soda to make it cloudy. The amount is not important,
as long as it is alkaline to cancel the acid of the vinegar solution.

Step 5: Put the stripped end of the wire in the vinegar solution, and
stir the solution with the wire. any wire you want cleaned needs to be
under the solution. Movement of the wire in the liquid speeds up the
process.

Step 6: After 2 minutes or so, the wire will look very shiny and new
in the vinegar solution. The acid and salt in the solution is etching
away the oxides, exposing the bare metal. Make sure the metal is
uniformly shiny. Leave it in longer if it is not perfectly clean
throughout.

Step 7: Once the wire is satisfactorily clean, remove the wire from
the vinegar, and plunge it into the baking soda solution to neutralize
the acid's corrosive properties. If the wire was exposed to the air,
without neutralizing the acid first, it would quickly corrode again.
The baking soda keeps it clean and shiny. Swish the wire around in the
baking soda water for about 10 seconds, and then you are done!! Shiny
new wire ready for soldering, and conducting once again!!!

RC45Wire (1).JPG

RC45Wire (3).JPG
 
FI boxes either work or they don't... which usually meaning a fuzzy connection... easy to defined but time consuming to find... basically you have to inspect every wire and every connection like Sherlock

I sort of cheat on the corrosion reduction process. I keep a tupperware tube with a 15% HCl solution in the shop (swimming pool Muriatic acid 1:1 with water). I drop items in it as necessary and then flush. Very quick, also awesome for prepping small items for painting; the acid etching gives outstanding adhesion.

You have an RC45? That is impressive. I’ve always admired the RC30 and RC45. I had a VF500F and a VFR750F back in the day, some newer as well as also older Hondas since then. I am a big Honda MC fan.
 
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