What happened to rust proofing?

[eljefino]

Originally Posted By: dlayman
I think a big factor is most people don't keep cars for more that 5 years or so, and almost any vehicle will go that long without rusting, even if largely neglected.


This is it, and IMO why we need technology for cars that have already been driven in salt for a bit. Fluid film bubbles to the top for me for this.

 

[ammolab]

My dad had a Rusty Jones treatment with rust repairs guaranteed*

He lived at the beach, 20 yards from the salt water. When he took his car in for thousands of dollars of rust repair. Rusty Jones just gave him his money back. You never win.

*Rust repairs refunded...OR YOUR MONEY BACK!

 

[JC1]

Rust proofing is still around. Those who don't maintain their cars or only keep their cars for 5-7 years think it's a waste of time.

I used to get my cars rustproofed at Krown and Rust Check. They both made mistakes and missed panels years after year. On my wife's 97 Civic hatchback they drilled a hole to make it look like they sprayed the rear panel. When I went into that hole with my wand it wouldn't even go 1/2 inch into the panel. The didn't drill through the secondary piece of the frame. I was [censored]. It was bone dry when I removed the panel to look at it. A small amount of rust was forming in the bottom corner.

I wasn't a happy customer so I decided to DIY.

I invested in the Fluid film gun and I do my own rust proofing. I go so far as to remove the plastic wheel liners in the front and go to town. No rust proofing place will do that. I've also removed the door panels to make sure everything is coated.

The fluid film's advantage from Krown or Rust check is it doesn't drip. It stays in place. You get underneath the vehicle and spray and you don't get soaked from dripping.

I can buy two can's of FF for under $140 Canadian with taxes or less than $90 USD when I visit the US. That gives protection for a 97 Civic and 2015 Caravan.

Krown & rust check would be charging around $250-300 CDN for both of these vehicles, but you don't know how well they hit every panel. Don't think they get every panel every time, on every vehicle they spray.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: JC1
Rust proofing is still around. Those who don't maintain their cars or only keep their cars for 5-7 years think it's a waste of time.

I used to get my cars rustproofed at Krown and Rust Check. They both made mistakes and missed panels years after year. On my wife's 97 Civic hatchback they drilled a hole to make it look like they sprayed the rear panel. When I went into that hole with my wand it wouldn't even go 1/2 inch into the panel. The didn't drill through the secondary piece of the frame. I was [censored]. It was bone dry when I removed the panel to look at it. A small amount of rust was forming in the bottom corner.

I wasn't a happy customer so I decided to DIY.

I invested in the Fluid film gun and I do my own rust proofing. I go so far as to remove the plastic wheel liners in the front and go to town. No rust proofing place will do that. I've also removed the door panels to make sure everything is coated.

The fluid film's advantage from Krown or Rust check is it doesn't drip. It stays in place. You get underneath the vehicle and spray and you don't get soaked from dripping.

I can buy two can's of FF for under $140 Canadian with taxes or less than $90 USD when I visit the US. That gives protection for a 97 Civic and 2015 Caravan.

Krown & rust check would be charging around $250-300 CDN for both of these vehicles, but you don't know how well they hit every panel. Don't think they get every panel every time, on every vehicle they spray.


WUT?

It costs me $135 to do the Jeep at Rust Check, so you are being ripped off HARD in the 'shwa if that's what they are charging.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: Kira
Do these treatments smell?

I ask because a friend goes somewhere in Vermont and has this oily stuff sprayed throughout his truck.

I sure wouldn't want to have to work on his vehicle within 2 or 3 months of application. It stayed wet looking for a while.


FF has an odor but CarWell and Krown (they are very similar) do not.

I have CarWell done yearly on all my vehicles. The only issue for me is my time driving to the place. If it was more local I would have it done spring and fall.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: JC1
Rust proofing is still around. Those who don't maintain their cars or only keep their cars for 5-7 years think it's a waste of time.

I used to get my cars rustproofed at Krown and Rust Check. They both made mistakes and missed panels years after year. On my wife's 97 Civic hatchback they drilled a hole to make it look like they sprayed the rear panel. When I went into that hole with my wand it wouldn't even go 1/2 inch into the panel. The didn't drill through the secondary piece of the frame. I was [censored]. It was bone dry when I removed the panel to look at it. A small amount of rust was forming in the bottom corner.

I wasn't a happy customer so I decided to DIY.

I invested in the Fluid film gun and I do my own rust proofing. I go so far as to remove the plastic wheel liners in the front and go to town. No rust proofing place will do that. I've also removed the door panels to make sure everything is coated.

The fluid film's advantage from Krown or Rust check is it doesn't drip. It stays in place. You get underneath the vehicle and spray and you don't get soaked from dripping.

I can buy two can's of FF for under $140 Canadian with taxes or less than $90 USD when I visit the US. That gives protection for a 97 Civic and 2015 Caravan.

Krown & rust check would be charging around $250-300 CDN for both of these vehicles, but you don't know how well they hit every panel. Don't think they get every panel every time, on every vehicle they spray.


The guy at the place I go to has been doing it for many years. They know where to drill the holes to do the body cavities. Their gun has about a 30" wand.

 

[NHGUY]

Best undercoating I ever saw was Quaker Coat Metal Gard.It was a brownish throw up looking thick material that stayed soft and sticky with a waxy feel.I believe it was dropped more than 10-15 years ago.

 

[Wolf359]

Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: Kira
Do these treatments smell?

I ask because a friend goes somewhere in Vermont and has this oily stuff sprayed throughout his truck.

I sure wouldn't want to have to work on his vehicle within 2 or 3 months of application. It stayed wet looking for a while.


FF has an odor but CarWell and Krown (they are very similar) do not.

I have CarWell done yearly on all my vehicles. The only issue for me is my time driving to the place. If it was more local I would have it done spring and fall.


Just how often do you take your car to a car wash where they have an under carriage wash? My old Taurus was a 2001 and didn't really have rust on it when I got rid of it last year. I did see many other cars of the same vintage with rusting in the wheel wells. I just took mine through the car wash a couple times each winter. Newer cars like my Mercedes use aluminum in several areas and you don't really see them with any rust.

 

[doitmyself]

Overkill - he must have meant the price for 2 cars total.

Like EVERYTHING you pay for, you have to be your own self advocate. A medical procedure or rust proofing - no difference. You talk to the owner and more important, you talk to the technician and express your desire to have your vehicle done properly. Look it over before you leave and politely, but assertively (different than aggressively) have them touch up any areas missed.

Frequent car washing to prevent rust? That's laughable in Michigan (no disrespect intended). We get weeks of wet, salty roads. Washing off the salt to have it re-immersed the next day is fruitless and only provides a feel good effect. We are having a week long reprieve right now, so maybe a wash is in order. It will make me feel good, but the Krown treatment makes me feel "gooder"

I just bought and tried some Salt Away for some workplace equipment. Reading between the lines of their marketing, I believe it MIGHT be very marginally better than just using soap solution as there is no way to neutralize salt. Their product claims to assist removing the salt easier, there is NO protective coating left, but standing solution has some anti-corrosion properties and maybe the film left in the pooled areas when they dry might somehow encapsulate the salt molecules. Their instructions are vague about rinsing the solution vs. leaving it dry on the vehicle. It sheets off of most flat surfaces.

 

[Pelican]

Originally Posted By: irv
Originally Posted By: ZZman
I remember when it was all the rage but now you never hear about it.
Are vehicles almost rust proof now?

If it's the rust proofing I use, (Rust Check & Krown) it has to be applied annually to keep up the warranty on it if it's a new vehicle.
I have skipped a year before if we have had a [censored], low salt winter but most of the time I have it done annually.
It is still popular up here, or at least in my neck of the woods, but like everything else vehicle related this day and age, I think most people are uneducated about it and with the benefits it provides.
I had a long waiting time waiting to get my wife's car done at Krown last November but hardly any wait at all at a Rust Check place just around the corner.I am not saying Krown is better, that is an ongoing debate, but I believe most that have used the Rust Check place know they do a less than stellar job. I will be getting both vehicles done again this July/August as the summer time is the best time to get them done as the product creeps and gets into all those nooks and crannies a lot better when it is warm/hot out.


I've used Rust-Check & now use Krown. Krown came about when a group of Rust-Check dealers dissatisfied on how the franchise was run created it. It's 99% the same liquid, the 1% change was needed to overcome patent laws. It's by far the best rust inhibitor around. Corrosion protection has come a long way at the manufacturing level, but the biggest problem we face today is electronic oxidation, Krown will protect against it, I have a 2001 Subaru never had any electronic problems & a 2008 MB also without any. I don't let them drill and only have sprayed the underside, trunk and engine bay, solely for electronic protection which is the Achille's heel of today's cars. Cost to me ca$80

 

[doitmyself]

The Canadian military research study suggested that maybe the Krown had better corrosion protection properties than the Rust Check. Who knows. That study found CorrosionFree to be best, but that company shot themselves in the foot by making Canadian Tire their main application source. The application process is as important as the material.

 

[irv]

Originally Posted By: Pelican
Originally Posted By: irv
Originally Posted By: ZZman
I remember when it was all the rage but now you never hear about it.
Are vehicles almost rust proof now?

If it's the rust proofing I use, (Rust Check & Krown) it has to be applied annually to keep up the warranty on it if it's a new vehicle.
I have skipped a year before if we have had a [censored], low salt winter but most of the time I have it done annually.
It is still popular up here, or at least in my neck of the woods, but like everything else vehicle related this day and age, I think most people are uneducated about it and with the benefits it provides.
I had a long waiting time waiting to get my wife's car done at Krown last November but hardly any wait at all at a Rust Check place just around the corner.I am not saying Krown is better, that is an ongoing debate, but I believe most that have used the Rust Check place know they do a less than stellar job. I will be getting both vehicles done again this July/August as the summer time is the best time to get them done as the product creeps and gets into all those nooks and crannies a lot better when it is warm/hot out.


I've used Rust-Check & now use Krown. Krown came about when a group of Rust-Check dealers dissatisfied on how the franchise was run created it. It's 99% the same liquid, the 1% change was needed to overcome patent laws. It's by far the best rust inhibitor around. Corrosion protection has come a long way at the manufacturing level, but the biggest problem we face today is electronic oxidation, Krown will protect against it, I have a 2001 Subaru never had any electronic problems & a 2008 MB also without any. I don't let them drill and only have sprayed the underside, trunk and engine bay, solely for electronic protection which is the Achille's heel of today's cars. Cost to me ca$80


I wouldn't necessarily nor conclusively say Krown is the best. Both are good products and the only tests I have ever seen were their own showing how great theirs were against the other guys. I don't recall seeing any independent, unbiased tests anywhere, but I guess it's time to have another look.
Like what has been already mentioned, the application from the applicator (worker) is the most important by far. I use to go to a guy on Bloor Street here in Oshawa who did an amazing job using Rust Check. I use to do this myself so I have experience, but after hearing about and watching this guy, there was no way I could do a better job doing it myself, and I'm anal. He was that good and that thorough but unfortunately just a couple 2-3 years ago now, he sold his business to Monroe auto glass and the kid they had doing it was in way over his head!

I also went to the Krown on Somerville (Russett address) back when I had my 09 Sierra. After it was done, I brought the truck home and couldn't believe all the dry spots I seen! I promptly took it back where they regretfully sprayed a bit more here and there, but that was the last time I used them. New owners now, and it is where my wife's Impala was done last November. I heard they were good so I gave them a shot and I'm glad I did. They also, imo, did an excellent job so that is who I will likely continue to use.
I believe my wife's Impala was $135 as well? I think my truck was $150-$175 at Rust Check?

The smell only lingers for a few days and it is far from putrid, and doesn't doesn't smell bad at all, imo.

 

[littleant]

Here in northern Vermont if you drive an M1 Abrams tank I'll give it 8 years before it's a rust bucket.

 

[Wolf359]

Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Overkill - he must have meant the price for 2 cars total.

Like EVERYTHING you pay for, you have to be your own self advocate. A medical procedure or rust proofing - no difference. You talk to the owner and more important, you talk to the technician and express your desire to have your vehicle done properly. Look it over before you leave and politely, but assertively (different than aggressively) have them touch up any areas missed.

Frequent car washing to prevent rust? That's laughable in Michigan (no disrespect intended). We get weeks of wet, salty roads. Washing off the salt to have it re-immersed the next day is fruitless and only provides a feel good effect. We are having a week long reprieve right now, so maybe a wash is in order. It will make me feel good, but the Krown treatment makes me feel "gooder"

I just bought and tried some Salt Away for some workplace equipment. Reading between the lines of their marketing, I believe it MIGHT be very marginally better than just using soap solution as there is no way to neutralize salt. Their product claims to assist removing the salt easier, there is NO protective coating left, but standing solution has some anti-corrosion properties and maybe the film left in the pooled areas when they dry might somehow encapsulate the salt molecules. Their instructions are vague about rinsing the solution vs. leaving it dry on the vehicle. It sheets off of most flat surfaces.


Believe it or not, we get the same thing. But it doesn't last all year. I just get it washed a couple times a month during the winter and really take it through the wash a couple more times after winter is over. Depending on what part of MI you're in, the averages aren't that much different than certain sections of Massachusetts. And I never bother with rust proofing and I never have an issue. Never got rid of a car due to rust either, they just became uneconomical to repair based on their value at the time.

 

[JC1]

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: JC1
Rust proofing is still around. Those who don't maintain their cars or only keep their cars for 5-7 years think it's a waste of time.

I used to get my cars rustproofed at Krown and Rust Check. They both made mistakes and missed panels years after year. On my wife's 97 Civic hatchback they drilled a hole to make it look like they sprayed the rear panel. When I went into that hole with my wand it wouldn't even go 1/2 inch into the panel. The didn't drill through the secondary piece of the frame. I was [censored]. It was bone dry when I removed the panel to look at it. A small amount of rust was forming in the bottom corner.

I wasn't a happy customer so I decided to DIY.

I invested in the Fluid film gun and I do my own rust proofing. I go so far as to remove the plastic wheel liners in the front and go to town. No rust proofing place will do that. I've also removed the door panels to make sure everything is coated.

The fluid film's advantage from Krown or Rust check is it doesn't drip. It stays in place. You get underneath the vehicle and spray and you don't get soaked from dripping.

I can buy two can's of FF for under $140 Canadian with taxes or less than $90 USD when I visit the US. That gives protection for a 97 Civic and 2015 Caravan.

Krown & rust check would be charging around $250-300 CDN for both of these vehicles, but you don't know how well they hit every panel. Don't think they get every panel every time, on every vehicle they spray.


WUT?

It costs me $135 to do the Jeep at Rust Check, so you are being ripped off HARD in the 'shwa if that's what they are charging.


That's for two cars. Still a rip off since they missed spots, I wonder how often they don't sray panels, but make it look like they did. Pure profit.

 

[irv]

Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Overkill - he must have meant the price for 2 cars total.

Like EVERYTHING you pay for, you have to be your own self advocate. A medical procedure or rust proofing - no difference. You talk to the owner and more important, you talk to the technician and express your desire to have your vehicle done properly. Look it over before you leave and politely, but assertively (different than aggressively) have them touch up any areas missed.

Frequent car washing to prevent rust? That's laughable in Michigan (no disrespect intended). We get weeks of wet, salty roads. Washing off the salt to have it re-immersed the next day is fruitless and only provides a feel good effect. We are having a week long reprieve right now, so maybe a wash is in order. It will make me feel good, but the Krown treatment makes me feel "gooder"



Yes, especially when it turns milder out as that is when the salt really goes to work. If it is really cold out, there is no point as the salt on and under your car isn't doing as much harm.

Occasionally, on the milder days, I'll take the garden hose and spray up under the fenders/wheel wells to get all that salt and sand out. It is amazing how much collects in those places, including the backside of bumpers.

My local drive through car wash gets crazy busy on those milder days as people also know the salt needs to come off to stop the rusting process, even though it is likely only temporary or until more salt is added to the roads.

I do the above even though both my vehicles are rust proofed/undercoated.

 

[irv]

Originally Posted By: JC1
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: JC1
Rust proofing is still around. Those who don't maintain their cars or only keep their cars for 5-7 years think it's a waste of time.

I used to get my cars rustproofed at Krown and Rust Check. They both made mistakes and missed panels years after year. On my wife's 97 Civic hatchback they drilled a hole to make it look like they sprayed the rear panel. When I went into that hole with my wand it wouldn't even go 1/2 inch into the panel. The didn't drill through the secondary piece of the frame. I was [censored]. It was bone dry when I removed the panel to look at it. A small amount of rust was forming in the bottom corner.

I wasn't a happy customer so I decided to DIY.

I invested in the Fluid film gun and I do my own rust proofing. I go so far as to remove the plastic wheel liners in the front and go to town. No rust proofing place will do that. I've also removed the door panels to make sure everything is coated.

The fluid film's advantage from Krown or Rust check is it doesn't drip. It stays in place. You get underneath the vehicle and spray and you don't get soaked from dripping.

I can buy two can's of FF for under $140 Canadian with taxes or less than $90 USD when I visit the US. That gives protection for a 97 Civic and 2015 Caravan.

Krown & rust check would be charging around $250-300 CDN for both of these vehicles, but you don't know how well they hit every panel. Don't think they get every panel every time, on every vehicle they spray.


WUT?

It costs me $135 to do the Jeep at Rust Check, so you are being ripped off HARD in the 'shwa if that's what they are charging.


That's for two cars. Still a rip off since they missed spots, I wonder how often they don't sray panels, but make it look like they did. Pure profit.


JC1, where were you taking your vehicles? I know there are good ones and bad ones around but most places, that I've been to, you can watch as your vehicle is being done. You can also tell buy how much your vehicle drips after and for how long. Personally as I use to do this messy job myself, it is not worth the mess and hassle not to take my vehicles to Krown or Rust Check.

Like I mentioned earlier, the Krown on Russett/Somerville did a great job with my wife's car and I definitely be returning.

 

[Andrew1972]

Mostly a scam and in many cases plugged up the body drains which made the rust problem worst. I think they made their money and ran. Classic overpriced dealer add on.

 

[Bryanccfshr]

I used to get an extra layer of undercoat8ng added on trucks when I lived on the coast.
To be honest probably should just buy old trucks for that purpose. Living in the 4 corners now i have forgotten about rust. There are some be old cars and trucks on the roads here. It is sometimes like a time machine in city traffic.

 

[irv]

Originally Posted By: madRiver
Mostly a scam and in many cases plugged up the body drains which made the rust problem worst. I think they made their money and ran. Classic overpriced dealer add on.


Which undercoatings/rust proofers are you referring too?

I've had more trouble with leafs/seeds and pine needles clogging up my drain holes than I've ever had using a rust proofer.

All that aside, I believe it's up to the individual to maintain their vehicles, including occasionally checking and cleaning out their vehicles drain holes.