What grade synthetic for my 1970's engine?

[caprice_2nv]

How many miles did you get out of it? My girlfriend's step dad had a 74 Omega 350R for his first car too. Over the past year seems like I've found out quite a few people had these for there first or 2nd car's and never had any problems with them.

I know they're tough engines but its 36 years old now, oldest part in my car and I need it to last another 4 years before I get through school then save up money to overhaul and upgrade everything. That means I'll probably be putting another 90k miles on it by that time. That's 120k miles after pulling it from the junkyard with no history on it.

 

[aquariuscsm]

I can`t remember. It was my mom`s car that my parents bought new. I started driving in `84 when I turned 15 and got my permit. Then once I turned 16 it became mine. That seems sooooooo long ago! :^P I eventually sold it for something else (can`t remember). If memory serves me well,I always used Exxon Superflo 10W40/20W50 in it. It was a supercool car! It was bright blue with matching blue Cutlass wheels. White vinyl buckets,chrome shifter between the seats,and white landau top. Oh,and it had the factory "AM only" radio :^P Funny thing,back then most of the rock stations were still on AM. FM still was over run with easy listening stuff. Ah the good ole days!

 

[caprice_2nv]

I got to ride in a customers vehicle at work the other day, a 68 Olds Delta Custom with a 455. It was a really cool bright blue color, hardtop, brand new white vinyl interior, AM radio, console and floor shifter. I'd buy it if I had the money.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Consider 4T (10w40) motorcycle 4T dino oils for about $3.5/L. They are typically API SJ with high zinc. Valvoline and Castrol brands are available at most all autoparts stores. Dont let the motorcycle monniker trouble you. Also, just 10w30 Lawn equipment/tractor oil can be better than any current GF4 swill.

 

[Gary Allan]

Quote:
I found a very large article last night that took me like 45 minutes to read most of, and part of what I got out of it is that wear will increase if you go out of the recommended viscosity range by much. That a vehicle like mine that original called for a 10w30 needs an oil with a CST within the range of the 30w oils or wear will go up. Now I'm worried about even putting this 15w50 in the car. It's working fine with the 5w50 and I've run VR1 20w50 before with no perceived problems but the idea of adding any extra wear still bothers me.


I highly recommend not using the content of one article in the formation of your opinions. Suppose you read another article that's counter to what you gleaned from the last one?

Every engine on the planet experiences higher viscosity states at some point. Many do for their entire lives. Never reaching normalized oil temp. You are not one of them ..at least with this engine.

Oddly, you're going 180° out of most. They tend to want Motor Honey to assure a long life. They think that 5w-20 is the deevil's spawn and the road to self destruction.

That said, there are plenty of 30/40 weights to satisfy your needs.

 

[jazeo]

My opinion is this, you have a mid 70's engine with unknown mileage in stock form, it probably has way less mileage than you think. Even though it's been transplanted twice it's probably more like 100-150k. It's a low compression motor with maybe 160 to 170HP that goes down the highway at 1800rpm's.

If you really want to get 4 more years out of it, changing your driving habits (staying away from the drag strip) will be of much more benefit than what oil you use. It's highly more likely spinning that engine 5k will result in a spun bearing or a thrown rod long before the cam breaks due to your choice of motor oil... Any 40 weight oil on sale is fine.. Save your money for rebuild time!

It's kinda like pouring a glass of wine from a $1000 dollar bottle and drinking it with a hot dog!

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Is the engine stock - I guessed it had a mild cam and headers to get it to 300HP. If not, I agree with jazeo: Why bracket race a 18 second slug? Practice? Of course it can be argued why would I run my Toyota down the strip? Because its THERE (10 miles from my house)and the strip is probably EASIER on it than my commuting habits

 

[jazeo]

Well that was kinda my point, he said it was completely stock and also said it was a salvage engine that he didn't rebuild.

I do understand the fun factor and wanting to go to the drag strip, but then to say he would like it to last 4 more years till he finishes school is wishful thinking, no oil even syn is gonna do that..

Oh! Arco you were being nice saying cam and headers were gonna get him close to 300hp, it just isn't gonna happen. 8:1 with those stock heads, he's lucky if he gets to 225.... That's with an Edelbrock intake and Holly carb too!

 

[AntiMatic]

Engine is probably 160hp single and 180hp dual exhaust stock. It is a smog motor. Stock Olds of this era dont breathe well. Without a 3 angle valve job, good headers, 2.5" exhaust through free flowing exhaust with a crossover, it will NEVER see 300hp. Quadra jet is OK. My 72 4 speed has (2) 500 Edelbrocks on an Offy low rise dual quad plus the above. DO NOT SPIN THE OLDS MOTOR OVER 5 GRAND. The oiling system is the weak link (Oil restrictors anyone? A high volume oil pump will only drain the sump faster) Mobil 1 0W-40 syn would cover you in your use.

 

[caprice_2nv]

To respond to a few of those last comments, yes the engine is bone stock with a stock cam, its 180-200hp depending on what year the engine really is. It's running 15.7-15.9 at about 88mph in the 1/4 mile right now, so no it's not fast but not really a slug either. It's fun and it relieves stress, so no I'm not going to stop doing it.

I don't think I'm going to spin a bearing or throw a rod any time soon either, I don't rev it pass 5000rpm cause it doesn't make any power past that anyways. I know all about the Olds oiling system deficiencies.

If the engine or transmission do take a dump, I have my winter car as backup. I just want to prevent that from happening. Or I can just throw a [censored] 307 in to hold me over if it did blow up.

I think part of the reason we don't see a lot of really higher mileage old engines is because people always cheap out on oil and oil changes saying that the engine won't last anyways.

That and the missing extra digit on older odometers. I see tons of "low mileage gems" that appear more worn out than my high mileage junk.