My 01' Accord has less than 2K since its last oil change and I had to add a 1/2 quart of oil. I checked the PCV valve and it wasn't 'rattling' so I cleaned it with Gumout spray. The PCV valve only has approx. 5K on it. What causes this gumming up? I've been using aftermarket (Purolator and Fram) pcv valves but I am thinking of buying an OE since they seem much better.
What causes the PCV valve to 'stop rattling' ?
- Thread starter pbm
- Start date
- Status
First, always get the expensive PCV valves for you car.
Factory ones cost a bit more, but are metered correctly, and are high quality. They have to last 50-100,000 miles.
Some PCV valvesdon't have an internal device that could rattle. They are merely an orfice type. So no rattle could be OK. I don't know about your particular car - there are so many variations! And some have springs.
But reasons for plugged PCV are sludge from blowby, and in cold weather water condensation that freezes. There also is a lot more water/crud/blowby in winter. BTW, check BOTH ends - the inlet as well.
Finally, shaking a PCV valve is only a crude test - practically worthless, IMO. It does not show if the pintle is seating well, the spring is OK, or if it is plugged, etc..
Factory ones cost a bit more, but are metered correctly, and are high quality. They have to last 50-100,000 miles.
Some PCV valvesdon't have an internal device that could rattle. They are merely an orfice type. So no rattle could be OK. I don't know about your particular car - there are so many variations! And some have springs.
But reasons for plugged PCV are sludge from blowby, and in cold weather water condensation that freezes. There also is a lot more water/crud/blowby in winter. BTW, check BOTH ends - the inlet as well.
Finally, shaking a PCV valve is only a crude test - practically worthless, IMO. It does not show if the pintle is seating well, the spring is OK, or if it is plugged, etc..
I say get a new one instead of just cleaning it. I changed out a PCV just yesterday on a GM 3800 engine which only cost me $2.14 and once I found the stupid thing, it was an easy fix.
From what I hear, mechtech2 is right about blowby and sludge plugging them.
From what I hear, mechtech2 is right about blowby and sludge plugging them.
Mechtech2: What exactly do you mean when you say "check both ends"? I removed the PCV valve and sprayed it from both sides and the 'rattle' returned. The OE cost $18 at the dealer vs. about $3 for an aftermarket but I will buy the OE because they are far superior.
How long can you trust a non OEM PCV valve like the Purolator I just bought to work properly?
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,793
Originally Posted By: dsmith41
How long can you trust a non OEM PCV valve like the Purolator I just bought to work properly?
On most engines, probably until it doesn't anymore (
)
Longevity isn't the issue between an OEM or aftermarket PCV. It's in how it performs. On most of our conventional installations, it probably doesn't matter a whole not. On some it surely will.
Clean the hose or replace it at the same time. Whatever fouled the PCV valve is surely present in the hose too. It may be restricted/clogged.
How long can you trust a non OEM PCV valve like the Purolator I just bought to work properly?
On most engines, probably until it doesn't anymore (
Longevity isn't the issue between an OEM or aftermarket PCV. It's in how it performs. On most of our conventional installations, it probably doesn't matter a whole not. On some it surely will.
Clean the hose or replace it at the same time. Whatever fouled the PCV valve is surely present in the hose too. It may be restricted/clogged.
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Originally Posted By: dsmith41
How long can you trust a non OEM PCV valve like the Purolator I just bought to work properly?
On most engines, probably until it doesn't anymore (
)
Longevity isn't the issue between an OEM or aftermarket PCV. It's in how it performs. On most of our conventional installations, it probably doesn't matter a whole not. On some it surely will.
Clean the hose or replace it at the same time. Whatever fouled the PCV valve is surely present in the hose too. It may be restricted/clogged.
Couldn't agree with you any more. And I guarantee checking (clean or replace) the pcv hose is probably the most over looked step when it comes to replacing the pcv valve.
Originally Posted By: dsmith41
How long can you trust a non OEM PCV valve like the Purolator I just bought to work properly?
On most engines, probably until it doesn't anymore (
Longevity isn't the issue between an OEM or aftermarket PCV. It's in how it performs. On most of our conventional installations, it probably doesn't matter a whole not. On some it surely will.
Clean the hose or replace it at the same time. Whatever fouled the PCV valve is surely present in the hose too. It may be restricted/clogged.
Couldn't agree with you any more. And I guarantee checking (clean or replace) the pcv hose is probably the most over looked step when it comes to replacing the pcv valve.
'Check both ends':
Your car has a PCV inlet, and and outlet.
Outside air enters the engine, usually at the valve cover,
The PCV valve and it's line/hose is the other end.
Onein, one out. This is the flow of the system.
Your car has a PCV inlet, and and outlet.
Outside air enters the engine, usually at the valve cover,
The PCV valve and it's line/hose is the other end.
Onein, one out. This is the flow of the system.
- Status
Similar threads
