Weed Eater 1700: Help Installing Fuel Line

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Jun 6, 2020
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Weed Eater 1700, new to me, with brittle broken fuel line. Removed back cover with pull-string housing to expose engine cooling fan, cooling fins, etc. A piece of old broken fuel line was loose inside the engine compartment. New fuel line will come out of fuel tank and go through a hole in the back cover to enter engine compartment. The problem is I can't see what to do with the other end of the fuel line. I don't see a nipple on the engine that will accept it. Is anyone familiar with this model? I'd appreciate some assistance. Thank you.
 
It's usually a closed loop. Two lines go into the tank, in/out of primer bulb and two at the carb. You may have to do some disassembly to find the missing nipple.
I would do some web searching and download a manual for your model.
 
The lines on my Husquvarna were getting loose on the nipples and leaking. I put a small o-ring over the hose ends to act as a hose clamp and stop the leaks. Will probably still have to replace the lines eventually though.
 
It's usually a closed loop. Two lines go into the tank, in/out of primer bulb and two at the carb. You may have to do some disassembly to find the missing nipple.
I would do some web searching and download a manual for your model.
Tank has only one outlet hole. No primer bulb. Yes, will probably have to disassemble, but frankly this is probably the end of the road unless someone has an easy solution. Thanks for chiming in.
 
Well, I found the nipple for the fuel line. Had to take engine completely out of housing and take the lid off the carb. The fuel line goes into the carb through a small hole, then attaches to a nipple inside the carb. There was a piece of old fuel line attached to the nipple, so I had to be careful that it didn't crumble apart inside the carb. Held engine upside down during removal. Crumbled and fell off nipple. Cleaned out lingering fragments with cotton swab (perhaps not ideal but worked OK). Will now try installing new line and see if works. Hope new line is correct inner- and outer-diameter. Wish me luck!
 
Does this thing have a vacuum line on the top of the carburetor? If so then that attaches to the engine to provide pulse vacuum to pump fuel. So you definitely have one line running from the fuel tank to the carburetor and you might have a line running from the top of the carb to the cylinder. Most weedeaters get their vacuum from where they mount to the cylinder but this old thing might be a tad bit different.
 
Tank has only one outlet hole. No primer bulb. Yes, will probably have to disassemble, but frankly this is probably the end of the road unless someone has an easy solution. Thanks for chiming in.
It should then be very easy to figure it out. Most of time DIY'ers get the lines mixed up. In your case one line from tank to carb.
 
Does this thing have a vacuum line on the top of the carburetor? If so then that attaches to the engine to provide pulse vacuum to pump fuel. So you definitely have one line running from the fuel tank to the carburetor and you might have a line running from the top of the carb to the cylinder. Most weedeaters get their vacuum from where they mount to the cylinder but this old thing might be a tad bit different.
No second line. Appeared to be a hole in bottom of carb leading to cylinder. Perhaps this provides the vacuum of which you speak.

The replacement fuel line is installed. Have not yet tried starting. There's a fuel filter attached to the end of the fuel line inside the tank. The filter is a metal canister that sits loose in the tank, and there's a length of "excess" fuel line within the tank. I was concerned that this excess line, which forms an arch within the tank, going up from the filter then down to the exit hole, would cause fuel flow problems. Am I correct that this will pose no problem, as there is vacuum created by the cylinder, which will suck fuel out of the tank and into the carb?
 
I would think that you would only need enough excess fuel line to allow the weighted fuel filter to reach the furthest corner of the tank. A small amount of slack in the line is expected but I wouldn't want more than an inch or so.

The fuel filter also should be weighted in order to keep the pickup submerged. It sounds like yours is. Some cheap aftermarket filters are just a piece of plastic and they don't sink easily. I'd avoid them.
 
Well, it runs. A couple questions:

1. How do I know how thick line I can use? It has only one line outlet. I want to cut tall weeds, not grass. Would 0.105 twisted be too thick? Does anyone know what CC engine this model has and what it can handle?

How about using the correct length of wire instead of trimmer line?

2. Should I grease the curved shaft cable?
 
No, the 0.105" line is for high powered string trimmers used in commercial applications. Most home-owner grade line is 0.080" - 0.095". That little weedeater is a very light duty unit that would take nothing more than 0.080" trimmer line.

When lubricating the drive shaft use a grease that contains molybdenum disulfide (the black, nasty moly grease). Lubricate it once a year with a light application along the flex cable.

That's about it. Have fun with that little thing. Pick a good smelling oil and drive your neighbors crazy on Sunday morning :)
 
Thanks FowVay. I thought perhaps 0.105" would suit the weeds I plan to cut, as they can have somewhat tough stalks. What happens when "too thick" line is installed? Too much load on engine?

Standard wire was not a good choice (tried it), as it produced sparks as the tip cut vegetation. It was the correct diameter, however, as it matched the diameter of the line currently installed. Perhaps bicycle brake wire would be better? I don't want sparks.

Which option would you (or others) suggest for this application among the following:

1. Old round line that's currently installed (breaks frequently even though soaked in water). Matches diameter of "starter hole" in center of spool. Don't know diameter.
2. 0.080" twisted shaped line
3. 0.080" shaped line
4. 0.095" twisted shaped line
5. 0.095" shaped line
6. "Light duty" universal replacement head with flailing plastic (nylon?) blades
7. Universal replacement head that comes with choice of individual strings or flailing plastic (nylon?) blades. Not sure if this option requires a more powerful engine.
 
+1 on the 0.080".

It's not an issue of the engine being able to spin the line so much as it is the line won't be able to spool out of the head. It sounds like you are trying to cut heavier brush with a small homeowner grade trimmer, which won't work, at least not very well. They are mainly meant for trimming grass and small weeds.
 
Thanks for the recommendations. I think 0.080" is a good suggestion. The round line I'm currently using keeps breaking off even though I soaked it in water and wound it using the proper technique. I believe I have experienced ONE successful bump feed. The rest of the time it fails, especially after breaking off. I will try some twisted shaped 0.080" (or maybe 0.095" if I dare to take a chance). If that breaks off as much as the stuff I have now, I'll have to give up on cutting these weeds.

Is there a chance that the "light duty" replacement head with the replaceable plastic flailing blades would do any better?
 
Thanks for the recommendations. I think 0.080" is a good suggestion. The round line I'm currently using keeps breaking off even though I soaked it in water and wound it using the proper technique. I believe I have experienced ONE successful bump feed. The rest of the time it fails, especially after breaking off. I will try some twisted shaped 0.080" (or maybe 0.095" if I dare to take a chance). If that breaks off as much as the stuff I have now, I'll have to give up on cutting these weeds.

Is there a chance that the "light duty" replacement head with the replaceable plastic flailing blades would do any better?
Honestly I would just buy some new .080" line and give it a try. I'm betting that the line you have is just really brittle and breaking off really easily, especially if it won't even bump feed. I wouldn't run .095", just because you might have issues getting it to come out of the head.
 
You can soak your old 0.080" line in water overnight and reduce the brittleness.

If you use sting that's too large then you run the risk of burning up the tiny clutch. It takes a lot of power to spin that heavy stuff. Stick with what it was designed for - 0.080" ROUND line. That fancy X-line and glow-in-the-dark square line won't cut the weeds any better. Just get the cheapy round line in the proper diameter.

I might be wrong but I think that back when those weedeater 1700's were being sold they also sold a 3-pack of string that came pre-wrapped on a spool. You might search around and see if you can find some of those. It made string replacement a breeze.

Did I mention Echo red armor for oil? :)
 
OK guys, 0.080" it is. How many feet should I put on the spool for the initial trial? Not the whole pack, right? I would think too much could cause a problem, no?

Also, should I soak the newly-purchased line in water first?
 
I usually put about six to eight feet on mine. Yes, give the trimmer line a good soaking in water. Don't know how long it has been sitting in the store....
 
Using wire is a good way to get a piece of metal imbedded in your leg or worse. When those pieces break off they fly away with tremendous speed. Round line feeds better than the odd shapes in my experience.

I used to use one of those replacement heads with three serrated plastic knives. It worked well on heavy stuff but was terrible for trimming up against plants or buildings.
 
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