We own a 2000 Volvo V70 XC AWD. Wow. NICE!

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I took these two photos this morning, as its awaiting registration/insurance (not like that stopped me yesterday. I had my papers.) In the first pic, (yes, that is our driveway and me looking at the car at 7 or 8AM this morning. NO DRIPS ON THE GROUND) if you look at the passenger side roof line, its fine. I pressed on the hood and all, which is probably why im noticing it. No issues. In the second pic is the dealer's ad, and he was very accomodating for me. (Also, you can see the white parking line reflecting on the passenger side. Its a very very clean car. I have tested everything but the headlight wipers, which i always found useless. The fog lights work and look COOL lit up at night! And everything turns on when key is turned.. Tempted to change battery for winter, but thats fine too.)

He said that is it had 125,000 miles or less that it would have NOT been "marked to go to auction if it didnt sell" and would have cost more. This is an incredible combo of perfect year of vehicle not the 01 or 02 with issues, mileage at 131,000.. $2000 flat cash.

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Quote:

What's that thing wrapped around the battery?


Battery brace. It is supposed to be there.

We bought this as-is. Im just wondering why the speedo droped out then came back. I described what sounds almost like a "loose wire" but even then, it fixed itself.. Idk!

Fluids? Im on it.
 
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
WHOA! Ok, hold up a sec.

Some of you guys are getting the facts on this wrong.

Lets start with some corrections:

Quote:
I wasnt aware it didnt have a current inspection


The inspection is a valid Massachusetts inspection until 04/2013 or April 2013. And eljefino I have not been able to confirm the "You need a new sticker even if present one is valid" thing. If that turns out to be the case I am sure my friend will ask me to find an inspection station, and I am one step ahead of the game there. However, I havent been able to confirm this. It is a valid sticker!


Does that sticker say on its face "Valid until 4/2013 or upon transfer of ownership"? What is a transfer of ownership? When it's sold!

It's okay though your friendly RMV will mail you a letter if you choose not to re-sticker it reminding you to get 'er done.
 
http://massvehiclecheck.state.ma.us/motorist_basicinfo.html

Quote:
When do vehicles need to be inspected?

Your vehicle must undergo both an emissions test and a safety inspection every year before its current inspection sticker expires (at the end of the month printed on the sticker). To avoid end-of-the-month lines, have your vehicle tested during the first half of the month when it is due for an inspection. If you purchase a vehicle (new or used), it must be inspected within seven calendar days of its registration to continue operating on Massachusetts roadways.
 
GearheadTool,

"No rust" is not much of a selling point on these, as very few of them rust anyway. Welcome to the world of Swedish cars.

The speedo "dropout" and the ABS light coming on prior to that indicates that the ABS module probably needs upgrade/repair. That is about a $100 job. You can use the link above, or Gavin, who repairs at the following link:

http://www.modulemaster.com/en/index.php

The reason you shouldn't put or need additives in major fluid systems in better European cars such as this Volvo is because they've already specified the best possible chemistry for it, you run the risk of adversely altering it, and it's frankly unnecessary. Engine oil is one thing, but brakes, coolant and trans fluids are often another. The coolant system on these is best served by the Volvo branded coolant, which is about the same price as the auto store Prestone. The radiators on these are close to bulletproof, and quite expensive to replace. ATE Type 200 is the recommended brake fluid.

Another example: don't put any additives into the PS system unless you are willing to accept the risk of a possible steering system change in feel, resistance or other response/feedback. The designers built the PS system around the specs of the original fluid, and an additive can adversely affect its lubricity for the design. This did not come from me, but from Terry Dyson, who discussed it with me several years back. And he is right.

In the AWD models, don't put other than the specified fluid in the ATX. If it has the 4-speed (and all 2000 XC70s in N. America should), then you can use Dexron III or VI. The AW 4-sp transmissions do well on Dex VI. If it by some mystery has a 5-speed, then it's strictly JWS3309 fluid. Flush it out with 12 new quarts every 25k miles.

Other than engine oil, unless the vehicle is exhibiting a problem, THE VERY BEST THING YOU CAN DO FOR THIS CAR IS FLUSH ALL THE MAJOR FLUIDS WITH FRESH OEM-SPEC FLUIDS, ONLY.

Only resort to additives if the vehicle experiences a problem, and then only in certain instances.

Unless Volvo did something I'm unaware of, I think you need one of these before the battery slides and pops out:

http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/products/Volvo/2000/V70-XC/Battery-mount/1172558/9444282.html

You can paint the trim, but it's a short-term fix. Not worth it IMO. They all fade from the UVs, and the only sure fix is replacement and/or keeping it out of the sun.

If it has leather, and it's not cracking yet, I'd also Leatherique the poop out of it now.

Just curious, but did you pull the Carfax on this?
 
Oh, one other thing.
I was rattling down my instinctual checklist on these.
Ignore the flame trap check; none on the turbos.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
http://massvehiclecheck.state.ma.us/motorist_basicinfo.html

Quote:
When do vehicles need to be inspected?

Your vehicle must undergo both an emissions test and a safety inspection every year before its current inspection sticker expires (at the end of the month printed on the sticker). To avoid end-of-the-month lines, have your vehicle tested during the first half of the month when it is due for an inspection. If you purchase a vehicle (new or used), it must be inspected within seven calendar days of its registration to continue operating on Massachusetts roadways.


Quote:
Does that sticker say on its face "Valid until 4/2013 or upon transfer of ownership"? What is a transfer of ownership? When it's sold!

It's okay though your friendly RMV will mail you a letter if you choose not to re-sticker it reminding you to get 'er done.


eljefino, I appreciate the helpful links. Now, we have another issue: We may not get this thing registered/insured/title transferred for a month or two! The dealer had some paperwork, but we have not yet went to the RMV. What happens then?

I have to look at the stocker but all I saw in big letters was 04 2013! Im sure it says that in smaller words, though (about ownership transfer.) Sooo... will we get denied registration? Never done this before!
 
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool

eljefino, I appreciate the helpful links. Now, we have another issue: We may not get this thing registered/insured/title transferred for a month or two! The dealer had some paperwork, but we have not yet went to the RMV. What happens then?


You're on your own?
crazy2.gif
I haven't bought a car from a MA dealer but usually the dealer is on the hook to get you the title, they provide you with "notice of dealer sale" (may not be exact wording) paperwork that you take to the insurance company and finally RMV. For a dealer to screw up the title/ registration process is a huge deal, for which they are licensed/ bonded against. Did you actually get the old title? Usually that is handled at the dealer level.
Quote:

I have to look at the stocker but all I saw in big letters was 04 2013! Im sure it says that in smaller words, though (about ownership transfer.) Sooo... will we get denied registration? Never done this before!


Nah you get your registration but they threaten to invalidate it after a while.
 
eljefino, yes they gave me the Title In Hand at the time I gave them Cash In Hand. They did an Odometer form, which is still with the Title. I had the Bill Of Sale and drove it to-day; plate from somewhere else/nowhere. So, we still arent strictly speaking "legal," but we are getting there.

The car runs well, my friend says she thought she heard a small grating/engine sound "typical of Volvos" but she sometimes looks for reasons for things to be wrong, and finds them. There could be a light out on the heated seats button and that could be it, if you know what I mean. "Oh no, its started" and then the whole car would be suspect.. However, she likes the car, so that whole line of doom is kept at bay. I have my ways.
wink.gif
*Also, I didnt mean to get into a back-and forth with you about the inspection. Its just that, if that 04-2013 sticker was there, this car would have been berated. Nevermind that its a [censored] good condition car, slightly sludged, sure, but ill work on that with decent oil, I am not concerned... Its just that she has no intention of getting it inspected until the end of 04-2013. Unless "something happens first" but umm, we dont get pulled over? Idk. She is on the insurance/titling angle. This is my first time seeing this. I know how they do it elsewhere, you can just write down any policy #.....

This car purrrs like a kitty. I think I am going to put GC (Castrol 0W-30, whatever version is on the shelf) in it, first OC. I made a post about the drain plug bolt size, etc, since I need to buy things sight-unseen. Leatherique, Mothers Back To Black.. Im in.

Volvohead, I will defer to your advice and not add fluid additives a la LGR, or ... yeah, no LGR in the trans. I will need to see if i can get the return line off. Now if only Maxlife was Dexron IV.. This car runs [censored] good. I MAY still Moly the engine with MOS2, though! Thoughts?
 
You're obviously still in honeymoon mode, so I'll only add this.

That "purring" will come to an abrupt and catastrophic end if the timing belt snaps or jumps a tooth or two.

This Volvo is no different from any other major as-is purchase: stop picking out curtains and door knobs, and take a good hard look at the roof and foundation first.

You're best advised to carefully go over the car mechanically before making a wish list of purchases for it. The cosmetic and "additive" details may not be a priority once you do so. Buying things "sight-unseen" is a good way to waste money.

You shouldn't be running GC or putting "moly" in this engine at this point. After essential maintenance and repairs, you need to focus on cleaning it. Add the GC later if you insist. I would resist ever adding "moly". A high quality synthetic will have what you need once the engine is cleaned up.

The engine drain plug is a 16 or 17mm socket (they vary depending on if replaced). Do not ever reuse the plug crush washer. Use new Al ones only, they are .10 each - buy a bag. Don't over-torque.

You know, of course, that this engine requires premium fuel for correct operation.

I really would focus on locating a good Volvo independent on this one, and deal with the fundamental mechanicals first before painting trim or buying wonder additives.

I'm sincerely not trying to be didactic or overbearing with you. I just get the sense that you are running blindly and too fast at the moment.
 
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
I MAY still Moly the engine with MOS2, though! Thoughts?

My thoughts are that you're not listening to what good people are telling you.
smile.gif


Congrats on a new car, nonetheless!
 
Originally Posted By: Volvohead


This Volvo is no different from any other major as-is purchase: stop picking out curtains and door knobs, and take a good hard look at the roof and foundation first.

I'm sincerely not trying to be didactic or overbearing with you. I just get the sense that you are running blindly and too fast at the moment.


Don't worry, the OP will learn the hard way...they always do.
 
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Hi there. Wow. Was out for lunch.. Ok, just got in, and saw all this.

Stanley, dont be a [censored].

Now, for Volvohead and eljefino: I am re-reading what you are saying. Yes, I am in "honeymoon mode." I brokered this sale on a reluctant owner, who now loves it. I have to switch gears to praise. For $2000, this one helluva good deal. Now, as to normal maintenance.. Got it. I want to change the oil with some GC (maybe 5w30 for now, oil change is maintenance) and the store doesnt have GC so its going to be something else.

I will return the Mothers VPR back to the store.

I have begun the task of inventorying/assessing. Right now, we have $0 in repairs, fix-its, etc. So... Volvohead and eljefino: Im not trying to argue against your posts.

I am just trying to keep a good thing going.

Ironically enough, she mentioned letting the shop "inspect" it today. This would be the shop that does. Opinion? 5-star shop that has pervious experience with my ladyfriend, and likes to help. Honest, and wont rip you off. Told her as to the last Volvo she had: "I wish you would have brought it here first." And that was a bomb 240, problem vehicle. This one? All i can think of is ABS sensor, MAYBE!
laugh.gif
Here is that link.. Its down the street from me and does inspections.......... Sam's Auto of Weymouth, MA - 5 STAR RATING, 5 REVIEWS

And QP, ok. No Moly in the oil. 10-4!
 
Congrats! looks like you're enjoying it thoroughly

- Was a PPI done prior to purchase?
Normally that provides a lot of valuable info in making a decision on a used car.

- Is GC known to provide good results (UOAs) in this particular engine? is that why you want to use it?
I would feel a bit weird about using a 0w synthetic oil in an engine with more than 100K miles (unless it always had a syn. diet), but that's just me (perhaps)
 
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