you can get a shiny finish, BUT for darker colors the colllinite 915 excels as it covers + darkens the finish!! previously i used original paste simonize that looked great but required a lot of elbow grease + was short lived, 915 is a little easier + lasts longer + looks FANTASTIC on my black vehicles!!! use Griots best of show with an orbital for a decent in between but although shiny depth is poor. its a few years old + wondering if it got upgraded! its EZE + on light to med dark colors its pretty good IMO!
Wax ratings on Dmitry's Garage
- Thread starter Gokhan
- Start date
About three months ago I saw some Rust-Oleum Factor 4 at Tractor Supply. I'd never seen this before and was intrigued by the fact that it was a multi step system. Anyhow, after a few more trips to TSC, I finally went ahead and bought some. I'm think it was somewhere around 20 ~ 25 bucks.
Application was no more difficult than other waxes, and the durability has been outstanding. The beading and sheeting action after three months is identical to just waxed. My truck is keep in a garage so that does, of course, help with the longevity. I used all the wash soap for the first app, but did have a lot of the past leftover. I'd definitely but some more, especially if I ever find it on clearance.
Application was no more difficult than other waxes, and the durability has been outstanding. The beading and sheeting action after three months is identical to just waxed. My truck is keep in a garage so that does, of course, help with the longevity. I used all the wash soap for the first app, but did have a lot of the past leftover. I'd definitely but some more, especially if I ever find it on clearance.
Thanks! Yes the aerosolized droplets are an issue. The droplets will have solvent and possibly carry those emulsified particles as well which will solidify. I should have been clearer when I talked about aerosolization. Any kind of respiratory protection is a good thing, even N95, as far as stopping larger droplets and particles. However solvents will still get through as they evaporate, even on the mask surface itself.
For organic vapors from solvents and chemicals like acids there is a rule of "if you can smell it then your protection isn't working", and really only chem carts with activated carbon will block those vapors. Even if you don't have a chem cart, it is still better to wear N95 or a P100 particulate filter than nothing, because at least you won't be coughing up the emulsified solids later. Without a mask at all I'm sure many have experienced spraying spray paint and then having that color mucus come out of you later that day, at least N95 will prevent that even if it doesn't stop the solvent inhalation.
You're welcome, and thank you for checking it out!
I would wonder if the other cars had simply been outside for a while? My garage is climate controlled and some days when I pull outside the right conditions of temperatures and humidity hit dew point. Even without HVAC garages will have a different humidity and temperature to outside air. As I pull out my vehicle starts to get condensation on it and my windows fog up. I have to sit there for a bit with the air blasting because I have zero visibility.
Typically its a problem in the middle of winter and middle of summer. So my guess is the condensation is simply due to you pulling out of the garage and hitting the right conditions for dew point at that moment. The other cars never met those conditions or already passed them having been outside a while. I'm sure when you got to where you were going you didn't have condensation anymore, right?
As for the uneven condensation it is likely related to the wax. Wax will cause water to bead more and it's possible you had high spots in the way you leveled the wax. Sometimes this is due to missing spots or not fully wiping up spots or using too much product. I have seen this with some wax applications, especially products that don't easily self level. This isn't typically a big deal unless you can tell in normal conditions.
I always welcome constructive criticism, because it can result in interesting discussions and thoughts. Some have led me to change my methodologies. Any thought out replies are always good.
No problem! My aim is to keep expanding this list and expanding my testing
.This is a good observation, I've found some products seem to generate more static cling.
That must be what it is then. Unfortunately if I want to apply a second coat I have to wash the car again to get the pollen off. Just rinsing it doesn’t do the job. I end up waiting about a week before washing and putting on the second coat.
I don’t remember this happening with regular wax.
Thanks! You may be right that since most people around here don't keep their cars in a garage, that's why my car attracted so much moisture when it got out. However, this has never happened before, and it would be a coincidence to have an unusually humid night the next day after I waxed my car. Nevertheless, coincidences do happen all the time. Yes, it's hard to get the wax completely even but it's not noticeable when there is no condensation.
One more question: Do you recommend waxing the plastic, rubber, and glass areas with Turtle Wax Ice Seal N Shine?
You can and I generally do with products like SnS or ceramic coatings. It may add a little gloss since rubbers and plastics are matte typically. There are other products if you prefer them to be more matte looking, but I don't mind and it's fun to see water beading on truck side rail protectors and such.
I'm missing Sonax BSD (Brilliant Shine Detailer) in the list. Honestly, the name detailer isn't suited to the product, it isn't what we understand under the term detailer. But it's a rather fantastic spray sealant with ultimate hydrophobic properties.
Long lasting too, took a lot of effort to wash off with overconcentrated citrus based shampoo, slight paint cleanser, there were still remains of BSD left. That stuff is lasting for a minimal effort in application. Nowadays I simpy spray some in my drying towel and dry my car while sealing.
Tried a lot, but I always come back to 2 products nowadays. CarPro and Sonax BSD.
Long lasting too, took a lot of effort to wash off with overconcentrated citrus based shampoo, slight paint cleanser, there were still remains of BSD left. That stuff is lasting for a minimal effort in application. Nowadays I simpy spray some in my drying towel and dry my car while sealing.
Tried a lot, but I always come back to 2 products nowadays. CarPro and Sonax BSD.
It’s in the second section under Hybrid and Polymer Spray Waxes.
I have found it to be a decent product. I use it mainly for door jambs and hatch openings as I use the Griots 3in1 for the exterior.
I really like the wax that gets sprayed on at the automatic car wash.
As someone who’s no expert, and only knows enough about detailing to be dangerous, I’ve enjoyed reading through this thread, as well as a bit of the Dmitry’s Garage comparison article.
Ive been someone who’s used parts store products such as Meguiar’s #26, TechWax, and Cleaner Wax, which, I understand, are now ancient history as far as the technology of waxes, sealants, and coatings go.
In fact, I only recently learned that there’s a difference between a sealant and a coating.
A few years ago, I did spend a little time over on the Meguiar’s forum and tried to educate myself a little bit, but it’s been about 5 years. And I am starting to realize that the technology has grown by leaps and bounds since then.
Probably the best result I ever got, shine-wise, was when I applied Meguiar’s #7 “Show Car Glaze”, followed by the #26. I remember, at the time, thinking that #7 was a real bear to apply and remove by hand!
Tell ya what, though, that #26 really doesn’t seem to last very long. Or, maybe I need to apply it more than once every few months!
From what I’m reading now, it seems like #26 is probably a good “topper” - in other words, probably best to apply something longer-lasting as a ”base coat” for max protection, then the #26 on top, for visual effect and slickness.
Suggestions?
I recently did the wife’s new Magnetic Gray Metallic 4Runner, and the #26 did really make it look pretty. So easy to apply and remove, also. But I’d like to apply something else as a base layer that would be longer lasting. Then, the 26 as a topper.
Anyway, really cool to see that the guy who wrote that comparison is a member here!
Ive been someone who’s used parts store products such as Meguiar’s #26, TechWax, and Cleaner Wax, which, I understand, are now ancient history as far as the technology of waxes, sealants, and coatings go.
In fact, I only recently learned that there’s a difference between a sealant and a coating.
A few years ago, I did spend a little time over on the Meguiar’s forum and tried to educate myself a little bit, but it’s been about 5 years. And I am starting to realize that the technology has grown by leaps and bounds since then.
Probably the best result I ever got, shine-wise, was when I applied Meguiar’s #7 “Show Car Glaze”, followed by the #26. I remember, at the time, thinking that #7 was a real bear to apply and remove by hand!
Tell ya what, though, that #26 really doesn’t seem to last very long. Or, maybe I need to apply it more than once every few months!
From what I’m reading now, it seems like #26 is probably a good “topper” - in other words, probably best to apply something longer-lasting as a ”base coat” for max protection, then the #26 on top, for visual effect and slickness.
Suggestions?
I recently did the wife’s new Magnetic Gray Metallic 4Runner, and the #26 did really make it look pretty. So easy to apply and remove, also. But I’d like to apply something else as a base layer that would be longer lasting. Then, the 26 as a topper.
Anyway, really cool to see that the guy who wrote that comparison is a member here!
Totally agree that the detailing market is blowing up like crazy. New products are coming out faster than I can add them to my test queue
. I've been sorting by requests count to hit the ones people ask about more to order the list!As far as suggestions, if you're just getting back into things and want to try something that is somewhat traditional and not worry about complicated processes or exotic use cases; I would say Wolfgang Deep Gloss 3 is great. It would be similar to the Meguiars product, but I really like the performance it gives and it is very easy to use. If you want to shoot for more of a spray or newer generation product without going to something exotic; Turtle Wax Seal N Shine is a great all around product and very easy to use. If you want to take the plunge into coatings, Adam's Graphene Spray Coating is fairly forgiving. Any of these products would work great on their own without a topper and they're all readily accessible via brick and mortar for the Turtle Wax and Amazon for the others.
I’ve been watching some of your videos, and those Wolfgang products do seem pretty amazing!Totally agree that the detailing market is blowing up like crazy. New products are coming out faster than I can add them to my test queue
As far as suggestions, if you're just getting back into things and want to try something that is somewhat traditional and not worry about complicated processes or exotic use cases; I would say Wolfgang Deep Gloss 3 is great. It would be similar to the Meguiars product, but I really like the performance it gives and it is very easy to use. If you want to shoot for more of a spray or newer generation product without going to something exotic; Turtle Wax Seal N Shine is a great all around product and very easy to use. If you want to take the plunge into coatings, Adam's Graphene Spray Coating is fairly forgiving. Any of these products would work great on their own without a topper and they're all readily accessible via brick and mortar for the Turtle Wax and Amazon for the others.
I think I’ll order some of that Deep Gloss 3.
Thanks for all you do!
