Water Heater anode rod question

[WylieCoyote]

Hey guys,
Anyone here ever replaced their anode rod with one of the 3-piece units? My water heater doesn't have enough room above to install a one-piece. I'm just wondering if water movement will cause it to bang around inside the tank. Can that even happen? I didn't want to do it, but I can drill a hole through the attic floor to get a one piece in, if necessary. Just want to here other's experiences with the multi-piece rod.

 

[Tomioka]

I have a 3 piece installed in my water heater and there is no banging noises. Just the typical creak and pop from the water heating up.

 

[Jetronic]

can't you fit a shorter rod more often if banging is a concern?

 

[LazyDog]

Amazon has some electrical gadget that you can replace the regular anode w/ it.

Cathville Titanium Electrical Powered Anode Rod for Home & RV Water Heater (10-100 Gallon Tank)​

 

[Wolf359]

I just use the full rod and cut it with a sawsall. When there isn't enough room, you just disconnect the hot and cold and you don't have to drain the tank completely to tip it over enough to put the rod in. You can use those shark bites so you don't even need to do any soldering.

I just buy the thickest rod so it lasts the longest. Those segment ones won't last as long and cost more.

 

[JC1]

I've never changed mine. How are you going to break the old one free? Breaker bar or impact gun?

 

[walterjay]

I regularly install the folding three piece units for my customers. Work fine.

 

[doublebase]

You can cut your anode down to size and simply measure it to your old one (if there’s anything left of it).

I’m assuming you’re replacing the anode because of a rotten egg smell, right? Keep in mind that that old anode is going to be in there so tight that you’ll need a breaker bar with a pipe on the end to get it out. That’s if it comes out. The last one I tried to replace...i almost knocked over the water heater from pushing so hard, so I decided to just stop. True story, haha

 

[Wolf359]

I regularly install the folding three piece units for my customers. Work fine.

How long do they last? I put in the .9 inch rod and just got around to replacing them again after 8 years and there was still meat on them.

When they were done 8 years ago, even the 1/2 inch breaker bar at 18 inches wasn't long enough. Had to use a 3 foot pipe to do the other 4 and it was a struggle.

This time, used a Milwauke 2767. Claims 1400 foot pounds of torque in reverse. No issues with any of them, came right out like nothing. Got mine with a 4 amp hour battery for a tad over $211 on sale but usually around $220+ just for the tool.

 

[wag123]

I have used the segmented anode rods in a couple of water heaters. I have had no issues with them. They don't make any noise whatsoever.

 

[JLawrence08648]

Use graphite Never-Seize on the threads.

 

[RhondaHonda]

For those that have them in there real tight, what do you hold the water heater with when using a pipe or a breaker bar to loosen the anode rod? I briefly tried loosening one of mine and the water heat will twist on the basement floor.

 

[Kestas]

I had a professional plumber show me how to remove and install a one piece anode with limited head room in the basement. He bent the rod.

 

[Wolf359]

For those that have them in there real tight, what do you hold the water heater with when using a pipe or a breaker bar to loosen the anode rod? I briefly tried loosening one of mine and the water heat will twist on the basement floor.

You just get two guys that try to hug the water heater, but when when it really starts to twist, you stop. That usually means it's time to use a longer pipe. Or use the impact wrench I mentioned earlier.

I had a professional plumber show me how to remove and install a one piece anode with limited head room in the basement. He bent the rod.

Maybe that's why the thin rods are more expensive. Doesn't really look like you can bend those .9 inch magnesium rods. In any event, disconnecting the water heater hot and cold only added about 10-15 minutes to the job.

 

[surfstar]

I'm all for preventative maintenance, but after reading up on anode rod replacements and all - I worry I'd do damage and not enough good.

Our WH went out last September - it was installed by previous owner in 2008. 12 years on a 6 year warranty model - aka the cheapest.
Replaced it with a 12 year model, with Gas Co rebates due to better efficiency, plus signed up for the HD CC to get first purchase discount, and the unit had a small dent, with no other in stock, so I got an additional discount for that. Ended up being the cheapest one to buy, and it has the longest warranty. (also has to be ultra low NOX burner here - aka more expensive) Uses a little less gas than the old one too. Win, win, win.

I plan to drain some sediment 1-2 a year (another thing never done on the old unit) instead of dealing with the anode and simply replace when needed.

 

[wag123]

I had a professional plumber show me how to remove and install a one piece anode with limited head room in the basement. He bent the rod.

That will work for removing the old anode, but it won't work for installing the new one. For one thing, you are not going to easily bend a magnesium rod that size. For another, even if you could, if you don't straighten it out as you install it you will get interference from the water heater's internals when trying to screw it in.

 

[wag123]

For those that have them in there real tight, what do you hold the water heater with when using a pipe or a breaker bar to loosen the anode rod? I briefly tried loosening one of mine and the water heat will twist on the basement floor.

I put a ratchet strap around the water heater and used it to wedge a piece of wood between it and the wall behind it. Don't drain the water out of the water heater before you do this, you need the water's weight.

 

[WylieCoyote]

No issues getting it out. I've pulled it several times to check condition. I will have to bend it to get it out. There's about 22" of space above it. I bought this segmented rod few years ago in anticipation of replacing it sooner than it has turned out to need it. I didn't see any at Lowe's that were short enough to use, so I bought the segmented one, but I guess I should shop online for something 22 in or less. Thanks for the tips & info, guys. If I can find a short one, I'll use it, otherwise the segmented unit is going in.

 

[doublebase]

How long do they last? I put in the .9 inch rod and just got around to replacing them again after 8 years and there was still meat on them.

When they were done 8 years ago, even the 1/2 inch breaker bar at 18 inches wasn't long enough. Had to use a 3 foot pipe to do the other 4 and it was a struggle.

This time, used a Milwauke 2767. Claims 1400 foot pounds of torque in reverse. No issues with any of them, came right out like nothing. Got mine with a 4 amp hour battery for a tad over $211 on sale but usually around $220+ just for the tool.

You used a Milwhake 2767 on an anode? My god you’re brave...I thought About doing that but figured I’d strip the thing out and the water heater would be junk.

 

[JustinH]

I used a three piece rod in my old house and the job went fine.

Use a cordless impact to get the old rod out, and use a pair of vice grips and cut it as you go to get it out.

Mine was toast, down to almost nothing.

I got a magnesium rod on amazon for a song, and don't forget to use some sealant or teflon tape on the threads..

New house has a tankless water heater, so I traded the anode rod game for an annual flush with vinegar.