Water Cylinder Decarbonizing

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Hey,

Sorry guys, the water sprayed through the TB method was unsuccessful. I got some in there taking my time but it's very difficult to keep the engine running. I buttoned everything back up and drove around for alittle to get the excess water out.

From the smell of my exhaust water was going through the engine and cleaning it. So after sitting down to think about it, the only way to do it on my truck is buy a new piece of 3/8" PCV hose and use more than stock. However, when I get finished with it, the hose will be too long then I'll have to recut to size. So I'm kind of stuck in the mud. Any suggestions???? AR
 
you dont need to use the pcv line. you can use ANY vacuum line, like for cruise control, or the line going to the fuel pressure regulator, any vacuum line that goes to the intake manifold, you can use.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Airborne Ranger:
Hey,

This post from BlazerLT's Water Cylinder Decarbonizing thread. I decided I should post a new one on this since I will be doing this myself.

I won't be able to do it through the PCV valve line because my Ranger is setup to where the PCV valve line and itself is covered by the intake manifold and fuel rails along with the ignition wires. Meaning, I can't get the PCV valve to point of where I can reach of glass of water through it. So I'll have to do through the throttle body. I'll be following BlazerLT's instructions, same procedure just I'll be doing it through the TB using a clean 32oz spray bottle and distilled water,,,,AR


You don't have to use the PCV valve, just the PCV line going to the intake.

You can use any vacuum line going into the intake for introducing the water.
 
Hey,

Success!! I used a small red vaccum line going to a gismo that connects to the fuel rail. The other end of the red line went right into the intake.

I kept sucking in water at a small steady stream just barely hovering the water line in the glass. Not much white steam came out of the exhaust but man I could smell some serious carbon, phew!! I felt like I was getting sunburned with the engines heat blowing in my face. I only did 1 treatment, I would've done 2 but my sinuses and the ****** weather don't help.

I want to thank you cryptokid and BlazerLT for the tips. My truck is running better and smoother, it's not a significant improvement but it is better to the point of where I can feel it. I will be performing this treatment in the future,,,,AR
 
Hey,

I was talking to my dad about it and he pointed out something quite valid, maybe you experts can back me up on this, that is, if it's true.

He told me the water cylinder decarbonizing process may steam the oil film off your cylinder walls. Is this true??

My thinking is, the whole time your pouring water down there and the engine stays running there's obviously some oil film on the walls,,,,,AR
 
quote:

Originally posted by Airborne Ranger:
Hey,

I was talking to my dad about it and he pointed out something quite valid, maybe you experts can back me up on this, that is, if it's true.


Good thought/question.

I don't think it's a problem, at least not to the level that it's does any damage. Water injection to control detonation has been around since before 1910. Since the effects of water on hot carbon were well knon in the 19th century and probably well before, it's also a safe guess that people have been decarboning engines with water for close to 100 years and it doesn't cause problems unless you really over do it.
 
Hey,

This post from BlazerLT's Water Cylinder Decarbonizing thread. I decided I should post a new one on this since I will be doing this myself.

I won't be able to do it through the PCV valve line because my Ranger is setup to where the PCV valve line and itself is covered by the intake manifold and fuel rails along with the ignition wires. Meaning, I can't get the PCV valve to point of where I can reach of glass of water through it. So I'll have to do through the throttle body. I'll be following BlazerLT's instructions, same procedure just I'll be doing it through the TB using a clean 32oz spray bottle and distilled water,,,,AR
 
Hey,

I wasn't able to access the site until tonight and since yesterday afternoon. Computer kept saying "page cannot be displayed",,,,,, oh well anyway. I decided to give my truck a 2nd dose of it. At the end of the first treatment I was still smelling carbon quite a bit and during the treatment the engine was missing quite badly.

On the 2nd treatment it didn't miss quite as bad and the carbon didn't smell so bad even though it was still there. So I didn't want to over do it. The truck is running alot quieter, smoother and is more responsive. Thanks,,,,AR
 
If you think about it when you drive through a fog bank you are doing a very mild form of steam cleaning. It's just a matter of degree. I dont' think the oil film is an issue, especially since oil and water are not miscible.
 
How about the tap/drinking water instead of the distilled water? What would be the consequences of the calcium present in the drinking water... would engine benefit from the detergency of the extra calcium?
 
quote:

Originally posted by ikeepmychevytoo:
How about the tap/drinking water instead of the distilled water? What would be the consequences of the calcium present in the drinking water... would engine benefit from the detergency of the extra calcium?

There is enough variation in tap water and distilled water is inexpensive enough that it isn't worth finding out.
 
1.)Tap water is fine.

2.) Steam will not remove the oil protection in the cylinder. Water & Oil Don't mix.

3.) You have to modulate the throttle so the engine won't die while inserting the water. Keep it at 2000-25000rpms while doing it.

4.) Do a small cup at a time and let the engine recover it's idle between cups.

5.) Go for a drive after to get all the water out of the system.
 
quote:

3.) You have to modulate the throttle so the engine won't die while inserting the water. Keep it at 2000-25000rpms while doing it.

Use a VERY LONG PCV hose and do it from the passenger compartment and use your foot to keep it running. You now have two hands free to play with the container/hose.

quote:

4.) Do a small cup at a time and let the engine recover it's idle between cups.

With added length ..the "draw" will be somewhat self regulating (within limits) the fast the engine turns ..the more it will draw in.

The best way to do this is under load. For those who like to get a partner. Just fish it up via the cowl and run it in the window. Get going 60 mph or so ...shove the hose (no PCV valve needed - you've had it capped/plugged) in a gallon of water. Drive til empty.

Yes, it's been done ....with H20 and ATF ..many times.

..and don't worry about having your PCV valve out of service for 10 miles
rolleyes.gif
 
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