Warming up your car in winter....?!?

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Originally Posted by Marco620
Glad I got redline 0w20 oil in there. Good to -76

So pour point = temperature you can start the car?
 
I have always warmed up vehicles with no issues,on really cold days maybe as much as 10 minutes, while I brush off snow or ice and let the defrost and rear window defogger do it's work. On warmer days maybe 30 seconds. I never use Edge browser or MSN and as bad as their web browser is they are the last people I would take automotive advice from. I idle and warm up cars /trucks as long as I like with no issues. Police cars and cabs spend hours each day idling. idling does Not harm vehicles.I have had several vehicles go well into the 200,000 mile club with no harm done by warming up as far as I know. Now retired I don't worry about it much, I probably only drive 1-2 times a week now anyway.
 
It seems like this topic comes up every winter. I don't really care if the engine runs rich and some fuel washes the cylinder walls down. Whatever it does, it can't be doing too much damage. I start my car every morning in the winter and let it warm up, always have, and my car now has 360K miles. My car exists to serve me, not the other way around. When I get in to drive I want a warm interior and clear windows...
 
Originally Posted by KrisZ
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Originally Posted by Virtus_Probi
When I use my remote start, the car will shut itself off as soon as any door is opened, including the rear hatch...I suppose that must be an anti-theft thing, but it is sure a PITA for me.

I think your remote start is broken, wired wrong, or mis-configured. That is NOT normal behavior with any remote-start I've ever heard of. Most will shut off if you put your foot on the brake before inserting and turning the key. That is an anti-theft arrangement (and takes getting used to).

I presume it's in a Toyota, if that's the case, it's 100% normal and working properly. Pretty stupid to program it that way, but that's they way Toyota programs their remote start systems. Perhaps it is to discourage their use?

It's a Subaru, I would guess the remote start was dealer installed but I'm not sure. My FXT was waiting for me on a lot with quite a few options, including rear heated seats which I don't think was a typical Subaru option at the time, and the salesman told me that another salesman had ordered it and then quit or was fired before it arrived. I guess that story is plausible, but there is actually a rather strange defect in the leather in the middle of the front passenger seat which I find quite comical and I suspect a buyer may have rejected it over that...let's just say that it approximates the anatomy of the passenger when I have one. ;^)
I'll have to look closely at the remote start fob to see if it has Subaru markings, can't say I ever inspected it in any detail before.
 
Originally Posted by Shannow
Why does the strawman argument have to be that arguing against statically warming up an engine is a full throttle quarter pass ?





Ha! I just got to experience that. My boss drove our new F150 2.7L ecoboost by pulling out of the parking lot and directly onto the highway at full throttle, with a stone cold engine, during snow flurries.

The engine sounded awfully unhappy.
 
I warm up as needed. Those who write these columns are free to drive away gently and immediately in -40 all the want.
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No kidding. I think waiting for the pistons to expand decently from [MinusCanada] degrees Celsius, to say a normal room temp isn't all too decadent... less than a minute at least?
 
Originally Posted by BJD78
I have always warmed up vehicles with no issues,on really cold days maybe as much as 10 minutes, while I brush off snow or ice and let the defrost and rear window defogger do it's work. On warmer days maybe 30 seconds. I never use Edge browser or MSN and as bad as their web browser is they are the last people I would take automotive advice from. I idle and warm up cars /trucks as long as I like with no issues. Police cars and cabs spend hours each day idling. idling does Not harm vehicles.I have had several vehicles go well into the 200,000 mile club with no harm done by warming up as far as I know. Now retired I don't worry about it much, I probably only drive 1-2 times a week now anyway.

Your example is flawed the Police vehicle is already at operating tempature. Also because there is increased wear does not equal catastrophic wear.
 
Yep. The Redline CVT fluid is minus 60. I love how people spend 20 minutes warming up car but the transmission is still cold. Kinda pointless. I start up and within 3 minutes just go easy first few miles. That Archoil 9100 works well too. Added to a Toyota Tacoma in the rear end and left over to crankcase and its much better.
 
Originally Posted by StevieC
Originally Posted by Virtus_Probi
When I use my remote start, the car will shut itself off as soon as any door is opened, including the rear hatch...I suppose that must be an anti-theft thing, but it is sure a PITA for me.
I only use remote start when I am skiing and it is genuinely cold out, I hide the fob away somewhere where nobody is going to touch it when I'm home because I sure don't want my car starting itself when it's in the garage. You need to give it two firm presses for a start, but I'm not taking any chances.

My Highlander was like that. As soon as you touched the handle it would shut off, there was no way to get into it with it still running. The Chrysler system allows you to unlock/open the doors but as soon as you go to step on the brake to take it out of park it shuts down if it doesn't detect the key or authorized fob. This allows an authorized person to drive away without having to re-start the vehicle. It's nice that they do it this way for wear/tear on the starter.

It really annoyed me with the Toyota that I had to re-start the vehicle because it would shut down as soon as I grabbed the handle to the car in remote-start mode.


Hmmm, my '15 Altima(factory RES-not dealer installed) allows me to unlock & get into the warm car in order to press the Brake Pedal & Start Button in order to keep the engine running(key fob within distance). Before letting the car know you're here, if I mistakenly get into the car and move(or try) the gear selector, the engine will shut down. Even pressing the release button on the gear selector shuts off the engine.
 
Somehow I doubt in the scheme of things that LEO's are cracking down on vehicle idling without a driver all that much. Wouldn't ever be a concern of mine.
 
Originally Posted by Char Baby
Originally Posted by StevieC
Originally Posted by Virtus_Probi
When I use my remote start, the car will shut itself off as soon as any door is opened, including the rear hatch...I suppose that must be an anti-theft thing, but it is sure a PITA for me.
I only use remote start when I am skiing and it is genuinely cold out, I hide the fob away somewhere where nobody is going to touch it when I'm home because I sure don't want my car starting itself when it's in the garage. You need to give it two firm presses for a start, but I'm not taking any chances.

My Highlander was like that. As soon as you touched the handle it would shut off, there was no way to get into it with it still running. The Chrysler system allows you to unlock/open the doors but as soon as you go to step on the brake to take it out of park it shuts down if it doesn't detect the key or authorized fob. This allows an authorized person to drive away without having to re-start the vehicle. It's nice that they do it this way for wear/tear on the starter.

It really annoyed me with the Toyota that I had to re-start the vehicle because it would shut down as soon as I grabbed the handle to the car in remote-start mode.


Hmmm, my '15 Altima(factory RES-not dealer installed) allows me to unlock & get into the warm car in order to press the Brake Pedal & Start Button in order to keep the engine running(key fob within distance). Before letting the car know you're here, if I mistakenly get into the car and move(or try) the gear selector, the engine will shut down. Even pressing the release button on the gear selector shuts off the engine.


From my understanding and experience, that's how pretty much all remote starters work, including aftermarket ones. The RFID keyless entry is a bit different, but it still taps into the brake pedal for automatic cars. If the car is not detecting the key, or the key is not inserted in the ignition and brake pedal is pressed, the car will shut down.
On my Mazda, it will shut down and sound the alarm.

It is only Toyota and now Subaru, as far as I know, that have implemented the safety shut off to the door in their factory remote start systems. Like I mentioned earlier, it's like it was done intentionally to discourage the use of the remote start feature. It's a totally half-baked system.

The remote start on our Grand Caravan and I would imagine all other FCA products is really nice. If the temperature is around 3C, or 37F ( gotta get used to using the Fahrenheit scale
lol.gif
) when the vehicle is remote started, it will turn on the driver heated seats, steering wheel and in some occasions I've seen it turn on rear and front defrosts. Super nice and convenient. I think it will shut of after 20 minutes, although I have never tested the time, and the remote start will not work if the low fuel light is on.
I only wish it could be programmed to turn on all heated seats, instead of just the driver one.

Chrysler obviously spent a lot of thought designing their remote start system to be as convenient as it can be. I have no idea what Toyota and Subaru thought when they designed theirs.
 
I love that feature in my new van. (Remote started - Automatic Heated seats / Defroster / Turns the Heat on or turns on the A/C depending on the outdoor temperature).
 
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Originally Posted by KrisZ


It is only Toyota and now Subaru, as far as I know, that have implemented the safety shut off to the door in their factory remote start systems. Like I mentioned earlier, it's like it was done intentionally to discourage the use of the remote start feature. It's a totally half-baked system.


I'd probably bet it's there to discourage someone from driving off with the car, or to prevent you from forgetting your keyfob but it should have been done like an aftermarket system, start the car remotely, let it run and when you get in the car, do the takeover procedure by inserting the ignition key and turning it to run or pressing the start/stop button.

To get back onto topic, I let a car run for a few minutes to build up oil pressure and to light off the cats before I drive off. If I'm somewhere cold, I'll let the engine run with AC off and let the coolant temp at least register on the temp gauge or the cold engine light turns off before turning on the climate control. If the car was a BMW or Benz with a standby cabin heating system or a Prius(or like Toyota/Lexus hybrid) with a coolant heat storage system or exhaust heat recovery system, I'll feel more comfortable turning on the heat and defrost immediately in the cold.
 
Originally Posted by Marco620
Yep. The Redline CVT fluid is minus 60. I love how people spend 20 minutes warming up car but the transmission is still cold. Kinda pointless. I start up and within 3 minutes just go easy first few miles. That Archoil 9100 works well too. Added to a Toyota Tacoma in the rear end and left over to crankcase and its much better.


How so? I don't know anyone who sits inside their transmission. I don't warm up my car for the car's benefit, I do it for mine...
 
Now if you drive a standard,the transmission is always spinning when your engine is idling,so it warms along with the engine. In my 300ZX on a super cold winter morning,when I allowed the engine to warm up before driving,the transmission was super easy to shift.
 
Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
Now if you drive a standard,the transmission is always spinning when your engine is idling,so it warms along with the engine. In my 300ZX on a super cold winter morning,when I allowed the engine to warm up before driving,the transmission was super easy to shift.

Most automatics will warm up with the engine when the torque converter is spinning(but in a neutral state when the TCC isn't locked or no torque multiplication is needed), oil pump is moving and the heat exchanger is probably warming up if it's mounted on the hot end of the radiator.
 
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