Walmart Supertech MC oil?

[Propflux01]

I have ST motorcycle in my Can Am now and enough for two more changes. Will let everyone know if my clutch starts slipping.

I also have the ST MC oil in my Harley 114. Soon, it will have a hi torque cam installed. I too, will let the forum know if I have a slippage issue.

 

[Mackelroy]

Who knows, maybe the Valvoline full synthetic version was boarder line for some reason ... especially in that particular clutch. Many variables involved. I've never had an issue with using JASO spec oils in may bikes over the years, and don't plan on experimenting with non-JASO oils because if something does happen I don't want the pain and expense to mess with rebuilding clutches. Never had to for over 40 years using JASO spec oils, so I'll keep doing what I'm doing.

Ive only had oil cause clutch issue twice, the last time was Redline 10w30 car oil in a DRZ. I ran it for 2 weeks, and thought I felt the clutch breaking loose on sustained road(thought it was in my head), till I went full throttle up a big mountain in top gear and the clutch was breaking loose like crazy.Went home and installed rotella T6 , went back to same area, and no more issue.

The rotellas t 6 and t 4 , and the the Mobil super 1300, are stronger clutch grip oils than majority of motorcycle oils or atleast equal to the best grip. To the point they have so much clutch grip , they can shift notchy.

Mb jaso oils like that redline (which most car oil are jaso MB) , obviosly test bad for clutch grip , but you'd think you'd have more assurance with an MA2 rated oil. Surprise Surprise.

 

[Mackelroy]

I also have the ST MC oil in my Harley 114. Soon, it will have a hi torque cam installed. I too, will let the forum know if I have a slippage issue.

what is ST oil?

 

[Propflux01]

See post #1

 

[ZeeOSix]

MB jaso oils like that redline (which most car oil are jaso MB) , obviosly test bad for clutch grip , but you'd think you'd have more assurance with an MA2 rated oil. Surprise Surprise.

Yes, JASO MA and MB oils are defined differently for a reason - different friction specifications.

Keep in mind that any oil claimed to "meet or exceed JASO specifications", but doesn't have the JASO registration logo on the bottle, has not been officially vetted by JASO to verify the test data is valid and meets their specs. So it's just up to the customer to trust the oil maker's claim. Unless you want to pay a 3rd party lab to test and verify their claim on the bottle.

 

[Mackelroy]

Yes, JASO MA and MB oils are defined differently for a reason - different friction specifications.

Keep in mind that any oil claimed to "meet or exceed JASO specifications", but doesn't have the JASO registration logo on the bottle, has not been officially vetted by JASO to verify the test data is valid and meets their specs. So it's just up to the customer to trust the oil maker's claim. Unless you want to pay a 3rd party lab to test and verify their claim on the bottle.

Yeah, I think you have a point, the badge verses just saying MA2 in the description small print.

 

[Mackelroy]

See post #1

ST super tech, yeah, I think it is the Valvoline brand , atleast the 10w40 full syn I checked out from super Tech. I was running the 20w50 Valvoline Brand full synthetic, when I had issues.

In my sport bike I run the Dino valvoline, and the Ktm Dual sport, Those have performed as expected, no issue on the Dino version.

So if I see supertech in a dino version, I'll likely grab some, but all Ive seen on the shelf is the full syn lately.

 

[Mackelroy]

I also have the ST MC oil in my Harley 114. Soon, it will have a hi torque cam installed. I too, will let the forum know if I have a slippage issue.

Put the bike in top gear low to mid rpm, and full thottle it on a long pull, if the rpms climb without seeing the same level of forward movement, then dont have solid clutch lock up.


Expecting to see , a bike that hard slips, and wont move forward, is not really what would be seen. Its mild slippage that shows up under heavy loads under full power. Where the rpms are raising yet the bike doesnt seem to be gaining speed much.

 

[Propflux01]

Put the bike in top gear low to mid rpm, and full thottle it on a long pull, if the rpms climb without seeing the same level of forward movement, then dont have solid clutch lock up.


Expecting to see , a bike that hard slips, and wont move forward, is not really what would be seen. Its mild slippage that shows up under heavy loads under full power. Where the rpms are raising yet the bike doesnt seem to be gaining speed much.

Well, so far I can do that without issue. Granted its a stage one 114, but soon I am installing the Cyclerama 480. If its gonna slip, it'll do it then, that's for sure!

 

[Overfill]

ST super tech, yeah, I think it is the Valvoline brand , atleast the 10w40 full syn I checked out from super Tech. I was running the 20w50 Valvoline Brand full synthetic, when I had issues.

In my sport bike I run the Dino valvoline, and the Ktm Dual sport, Those have performed as expected, no issue on the Dino version.

So if I see supertech in a dino version, I'll likely grab some, but all Ive seen on the shelf is the full syn lately.

A product line's frictional characteristics can be better than MA2, and thus this whole market of products can certainly perform at a variety of clutch frictional characteristics (one blender's product 'feels grabbier' than another.)

I am no SME on this, but I would say that given the same additive package (as in a matrix formulation technique,) I would generally expect grabbier lockup with the thinner grades of a product line vs the thicker grades. This statement assuming that a product line labeled 'conventional' is restricting themselves to group II basestocks, or a product line labeled 'synthetic' is not using group II basestocks.

This is how I would make some sense of Valvoline's synthetic 10w-40 4t product being 'grabbier' than the synthetic 20w-50, or perhaps in some blending cases even their dino lines being 'grabbier' than the synthetic lines.

(It doesn't mean though that a vendor's 20w-50 can't be MA2 and grabbier than another vendor's 10w-40 MA2--it depends upon the full formulation--base oil, base oil type, and additives.)

 

[V.I.Subie]

I had ran the Valvoline ma2 motorycle dino oil 60,000 miles, thats what I went back to after upgrading evrything in the clutch, to end the saga. Fixed it instantly.

I had just began running the full syn after a top end rebuild, Id ocassionally run the full syn, but once I went full time, it glazed the plates and the issue became Chronic , Instaledl some un glazed fibers and same issue.

No problem with the valvoline dino ma2 oil



as far as your Husaba. Its probably be fine in my sport bike too, but its a differnt clutch and much stouter.

BUt it does point out MA2 rating or not, its really is not a factor whether particular clutch likes it(but you think the standard was actually worth something).


I can point out oils that arent ma2 that have more clutch grip than the synthetic MA2 Valvoline

If you value your stator or it’s in an oil bath for cooling that’s way too much on oil. There’s more than clutch that needs and uses the oil. Just an fyi

 

[Mackelroy]

If you value your stator or it’s in an oil bath for cooling that’s way too much on oil. There’s more than clutch that needs and uses the oil. Just an fyi

What do you mean , Im on the original stator with 69,000 miles, thats crazy life for a street legal dirt bike, and most street bikes too.

 

[DGXR]

What do you mean , Im on the original stator with 69,000 miles, thats crazy life for a street legal dirt bike, and most street bikes too.

When you said you have been using Valvoline motorcycle oil for 60,000 miles, I'm guessing it was taken to mean you went that far on a single oil service interval. Which is practically impossible on a motorcycle.