w116 MBenz 300sd 1979 Brake lines

[Gito]

Need to replace my deteriorated brake lines on my 1979 300sd (w116). Which brake line manufacture is recommended? Does anyone know who manufactures the brake lines for Mercedes?

I also noticed that the the brake fluid cannot be bled out of the Front Right caliper bleeder.
I removed the bleeder and also noticed that the fluid does not bleed out.
Not sure if something is clogging the opening of the caliper.

 

[The_Jeff]

I assume you totally whaled on the pedal to try and jar something loose from that bleeder.

Is that rotor clean from rust? IOW, was it working?

The hose at that corner is suspect.

As far as metal line, I'd go with ni-copp if you want top-shelf. It won't look original though.

 

[Kestas]

When is the last time the brakes were serviced? I once bought a car where the brake fluid had gelled and stopped up the works. Once you repair the brake lines, you'll need to take the calipers apart and assess what is going on.

You should be able to buy metric brake lines off-the-shelf from any auto supply house, bend them into shape, trim the lengths to size, and finish the ends using a flaring kit that can do double flares.

 

[andyd]

There is a nickel copper brake line. And you will probably need a bubble flaring tool and a tubing cutter. Or you can piece together pre made sections with couplings. Chances are the hose to the caliper has failed. I advise replacing all of them as well. Google is your friend for getting supplies and info.Maybe even find a forum dedicated to your car.

 

[Gito]

Originally Posted By: eljefino
I assume you totally whaled on the pedal to try and jar something loose from that bleeder.

Is that rotor clean from rust? IOW, was it working?

The hose at that corner is suspect.

As far as metal line, I'd go with ni-copp if you want top-shelf. It won't look original though.


I bled the rear right then the rear left followed by the front right caliper. No fluid bled out of the caliper using a brake bleeder tank by Motive. Never pumped on the brakes this last time. Caliper does work. I then skipped the front right caliper bleeding and finished off by bleeding the front left.

 

[Donald]

I would remove the bleeder screw from the one that will not bleed and have someone step on the brake pedal and hold it. Have some kind of container against the caliper to catch any brake fluid. It could be the bleeder screw. Screw in the bleeder screw before they release the pedal. The pressure from the brake pedal is much much higher than any brake bleeder.

You need to inspect all the flex hoses for deterioration. If any need replacing hit the ends with PB Blaster before so you do not snap the brake line.

Ni-copp is the brake line to use if there is any salt on the roads. I would probably use it regardless. See if anyone sells pre-made brake lines, they will be easier. If there was no salt and I could get pre-made I would go with them.

Be aware that the flex hoses can deteriorate on the inside without anything visible on the outside.

6 sided wrench on the brake bleeders.

 

[JHZR2]

You mean the rubber lines? Good move. I'd go with ate, Febi, Meyle or OEM. Probably this is one area where generic is ok if it's dot approved, since the brake hose rubber surely comes from a third party, and hydraulic lines can be pretty generic.

Your car may have ate or bendix calipers. If bendix, it will be very obvious.

I'd just replace both calipers if the history is unknown. I'd look into a w126 vented disc upgrade too.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Aaargh, I cannot believe it has solid discs! Immediate upgrade to vented rotors would be high on my list!

Brake hoses are easily made at the local hose guy's place. They can make them any way you like, and I just got two made for a hot rod for less than 100 bucks.

Hoses can be vexing, as Donald noted above they may look ok but they are not sometimes...

 

[Gito]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
You mean the rubber lines? Good move. I'd go with ate, Febi, Meyle or OEM. Probably this is one area where generic is ok if it's dot approved, since the brake hose rubber surely comes from a third party, and hydraulic lines can be pretty generic.

Your car may have ate or bendix calipers. If bendix, it will be very obvious.

I'd just replace both calipers if the history is unknown. I'd look into a w126 vented disc upgrade too.


How difficult or easy is the conversion to w126 rotor(disc)?

 

[Gito]

All four brake hoses(lines) ordered and on their way. Went with ATE.

 

[Gito]

The only reason I caught the deteriorated brake lines was because the rear right sway bar link broke off. Never thought that a small metal piece would cause such a loud clunk. I ordered 2 sway bar links. I have never replaced sway bar links on a w116 but it looks straight forward. The sway bar is still connected to the trailing arm and can be rotated. The trailing arm and upper sway bar link look accessible, I just hope that the other end is accessible when removing the rotor.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Aaargh, I cannot believe it has solid discs! Immediate upgrade to vented rotors would be high on my list!

Brake hoses are easily made at the local hose guy's place. They can make them any way you like, and I just got two made for a hot rod for less than 100 bucks.

Hoses can be vexing, as Donald noted above they may look ok but they are not sometimes...


They are perfectly fine for the service intended. Remember, theses re cars designed to run all Damon the 70's/80's less crowded autobahn at full speed (90-100mphish) all day long.

Brake lines do go bad after 30+ years.

This is when I did it on my 82 300cd w123.

Here is the info on the upgrade to a w123. Shouldn't be that different to a w116.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/dies...126-brakes.html

 

[turtlevette]

Originally Posted By: Donald
See if anyone sells pre-made brake lines, they will be easier. If there was no salt and I could get pre-made I would go with them.


It's really hard to make your own lines and have them turn out stock looking. I made my own on my suburban just because I wanted to bypass the ABS.

In line tube makes good stuff. And you can get stainless for just a little more.

 

[Kestas]

That depends on whether you're building a show car or daily driver. I've gotten good at bending brake lines with tight corners to fit and work well.

 

[artificialist]

Where were the ATE hoses made?

In my career, I have only been supplied with generic hoses which were all made in China, or uRO brand which were all made in Italy.