VW Factory oil, early oil change?

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Hey guys,

I remember Honda and other Japanese manufacturers have different kind of factory oil with more moly, and they don't recommend early oil changes just because of that.

This is my first brand new purchase, and also first non-japanese car. So my question is : Is it also applicable for European brands, especially VW? I am at 2100 km (1300 miles) and considering to change the factory oil earlier. Recommended OCI is 10k miles/ 1 year but I just wanted to do mid-year change

The car (in my sig) takes 0w20 VW 508.00, should I change it early? I'm planning to keep the car for a long time and prioritize longevity over operating costs. Do you guys have any experience?

Thanks for your time
 
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Not the same engine, but my procedure is the initial change at 1,000 miles, then 2,500 miles, then 5,000 miles and every 5,000 miles thereafter. I did the first and second oil change on our 2021 Jetta with the 1.4 TSI. It's good practice to flush out the initial break in debris, and that is just my opinion.

I'd stick with 5K OCI's after your initial break in oil changes using the proper 508.00 spec oil.
 
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There's been some rumor about VW also using some kind of special factory fill,
but a couple of years ago when I was talking to an Audi engineer he denied it.
That said, I never found any evidence for that rumor. All UOAs of factory fills I've
seen didn't reveal anything special. In VW 504 00/507 00 applications it's been
Shell Helix Ultra Professional AV-L 0W-30 (same as Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX) in
recent years and in most cases. So I conclude it's just a myth.
On my GTI I swapped oil at 500 and 1500 km, then at 5000 and 10.000 km. With
one single exception I only used VW 504 00 and I'd suggest you to use the same
IF your manual allows for it even though VW 508 00 UOAs also yield good results.
This engine is strong. It'll have a long life at least as long as you keep it stock and
maintain your car properly.
.
 
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There's been some rumor about VW also using some kind of special factory fill,
but a couple of years ago when I was talking to an Audi engineer he denied it.
That said, I never found any evidence for that rumor. All UOAs of factory fills I've
seen didn't reveal anything special. In VW 504 00/507 00 applications it's been
Shell Helix Ultra Professional AV-L 0W-30 (same as Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX) in
recent years and in most cases. So I conclude it's just a myth.
On my GTI I swapped oil at 500 and 1500 km, then at 5000 and 10.000 km. With
one single exception I only used VW 504 00 and I'd suggest you to use the same
IF your manual allows for it even though VW 508 00 UOAs also yield good results.
This engine is strong. It'll have a long life at least as long as you keep it stock and
maintain your car properly.
.
Thanks, I'll keep it stock but even if I tune it it'd be mild something like Stage 1, but I won't touch until the warranty expires (5 year). The sticker says 508 only, but I think that's because of emissions, it'd be fine with 504. I'd just wait till the end of the warranty to switch to 504 and possibly get Stage 1 tune at the same time.
Not the same engine, but my procedure is the initial change at 1,000 miles, then 2,500 miles, then 5,000 miles and every 5,000 miles thereafter. I did the first and second oil change on our 2021 Jetta with the 1.4 TSI. It's good practice to flush out the initial break in debris, and that is just my opinion.

I'd stick with 5K OCI's after your initial break in oil changes using the proper 508.00 spec oil.

Thanks

I'll just change it early, you guys encouraged me :) I'm planning to do 5k - 7500km oil changes going forward, but I am not putting many miles as I work from home, so I may just do annual OCIs. My average -so far- is around 400 miles per month.
 
Not the same engine, but my procedure is the initial change at 1,000 miles, then 2,500 miles, then 5,000 miles and every 5,000 miles thereafter. I did the first and second oil change on our 2021 Jetta with the 1.4 TSI. It's good practice to flush out the initial break in debris, and that is just my opinion.

I'd stick with 5K OCI's after your initial break in oil changes using the proper 508.00 spec oil.
I forget...did you see anything in the oil changes that was out of the norm especially on the first change?

I assume you did not change the filter?
 
Hey guys,

I remember Honda and other Japanese manufacturers have different kind of factory oil with more moly, and they don't recommend early oil changes just because of that.

This is my first brand new purchase, and also first non-japanese car. So my question is : Is it also applicable for European brands, especially VW? I am at 2100 km (1300 miles) and considering to change the factory oil earlier. Recommended OCI is 10k miles/ 1 year but I just wanted to do mid-year change

The car (in my sig) takes 0w20 VW 508.00, should I change it early? I'm planning to keep the car for a long time and prioritize longevity over operating costs. Do you guys have any experience?

Thanks for your time
Something other than a lubricant related failure will be the ultimate demise of the vehicle. 508 and 504 are both emissions focused oils (ie. preserve catalytic converter life). 508 is also focused on LSPI and fuel efficiency. You either trust VW with their recommended oil or not. If you don't one has to wonder why you trusted them enough to purchase the vehicle. In any case if it makes you feel better then change the oil. Maybe run 508 in the fall/winter and 504 in summer/spring.
 
I remember Honda and other Japanese manufacturers have different kind of factory oil with more moly, and they don't recommend early oil changes just because of that.
Does the manual for your VW recommend an early change ? If not, that means the engineers at VW deemed it not necessary.
 
The oil in my Jetta sump was great stuff. Even pricey motul 508 wasn't as good. I regret changing it at so soon 2600miles
I would at least let it go to 3K. You have a nice big filter on that engine.
But if you change I would use the VAG (Castrol) oil and OE filter. I don't know what Mexican oil cam with my car- but it was good juice.
My dealer messed up my change by installing 5W40. Car ran like junk.
Correstion it ran OK 4000-redline with the 40 grade but I typically run this engine 1700-3000.

I would bet your engine would enjoy a low HTHS 0W30 vs the TOO low HTHS 0W20.
Remember Audi used to say 4 is too small, 6 is to big, 5 is just right.

Possilbly the same goldilocks perspective with oil on these highly boosted engines, 20 too tin, 40 too tick, 30 Jess Wright.
 
Does the manual for your VW recommend an early change ? If not, that means the engineers at VW deemed it not necessary.
Does any manufacturer actually recommend an early change? That would fly in the face of the "low cost of ownership" most of them like to aspire to.
 
I change the filter with each OCI on this vehicle. As far as debris, just the usual glitter. Nothing excessive, but it’s there.
How do you get the massive undertray off of that at home?
Well My 2019 Jetta lease came with a 2 year maintenance package so dealer was it.
I don't do ramps or jackstands. It on the 2 poster lift at my buddies barn or on the ground, one side floor jacked up, with a piece of cardboard for a creeper :)
 
How do you get the massive undertray off of that at home?
Well My 2019 Jetta lease came with a 2 year maintenance package so dealer was it.
I don't do ramps or jackstands. It on the 2 poster lift at my buddies barn or on the ground, one side floor jacked up, with a piece of cardboard for a creeper :)
Top extraction is the key.
 
Does any manufacturer actually recommend an early change? That would fly in the face of the "low cost of ownership" most of them like to aspire to.
Apparently (supposedly) modern Corvettes do. I'm sure there are others.
 
How do you get the massive undertray off of that at home?
Well My 2019 Jetta lease came with a 2 year maintenance package so dealer was it.
I don't do ramps or jackstands. It on the 2 poster lift at my buddies barn or on the ground, one side floor jacked up, with a piece of cardboard for a creeper :)
Easy! Put it up on ramps and take the torx screws out. Maybe 12 total.
 
Top extraction is the key.
Doesn't that leave 90% of the detritus on the pan floor of which possibly 50% would come out during a forceful drain?

Maybe we need a miniaturised IRPC for the sump ?!

pool robot.jpg
 
Doesn't that leave 90% of the detritus on the pan floor of which possibly 50% would come out during a forceful drain?

Maybe we need a miniaturised IRPC for the sump ?!

View attachment 81404
With the exception of a few vehicles I get it all. Have pulled the drain plug and nothing left. At the end you use a vacuum type method with the hose. Only rarely do you get a vehicle where top extraction isn't practical. One truck i had it was a no go...
 
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