ARX is ester based.sounds like Auto-RX
ARX is ester based.sounds like Auto-RX
https://smsrail.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/HiTEC-11188-Performance-Additive.pdfARX is ester based.
I drive a 2018 Honda Pilot. The Pilot is on its 3rd OC with 0w-20 VRP. Right now that is 10k on VRP. Pilot seems to have better power and fuel economy. Most noticeable is very quiet idle. What are the VRP anti-wear and anti -friction additives? Are these additives unique to VRP?(probably not). I am very impressed with this oil so far.
I like your OCI, but note that J series engines thrive on 0 W 20 synthetics.Welcome!
The J35 is a good engine. We have one in our 2024 Odyssey.
You might want to reconsider that mileage on an oil change - these are GDI engines and like to dilute the oil with fuel and contaminate it with soot.
I do 5000 mile OCIs in ours for that reason, regardless of the maintenance minder, and I don’t use 20 grade.
Like most, if not all, modern oils, VRP’s main anti-wear additive is ZDDP (zinc dialkyl dithiophosphate), and its main anti-friction additives are molybdenum and boron. But those elements also do more than just reduce friction.
VRP does have some unique additives, but I think they’re focused more on cleaning. There is speculation on what those compounds might be.
IDK about that; you could say that about almost any engine today, couldn’t you?I like your OCI, but note that J series engines thrive on 0 W 20 synthetics.
I don’t think you could say that about Hyundai or Pentastar engines and others. Not sure what makes the J series run well on 0 w20, but have had five in my family, all laughing at crazy high mileage.IDK about that; you could say that about almost any engine today, couldn’t you?
What about it makes it uniquely tolerant of 20 grade?
Noting does. It operates without excessive wear on the grade, at least as far as an uncontrolled spectrographic analysis will show. Which isn’t actually measuring wear solely due to the oil.IDK about that; you could say that about almost any engine today, couldn’t you?
What about it makes it uniquely tolerant of 20 grade?
I think it likely proves your engines have done well at the minimum needed protection, but one does wonder if it would have less total wear at this point had you gone up a grade. Not discrediting your personal experience or saying one way or the other, just thinking out loud. It is likely a question we can’t answer for certain, but what we do know is that sometimes manufacturers do admit to allowing higher grades in other countries OM. It’s likely you’d have the same crazy high mileage running 30 grade is the point.I don’t think you could say that about Hyundai or Pentastar engines and others. Not sure what makes the J series run well on 0 w20, but have had five in my family, all laughing at crazy high mileage.
I don’t think that, say, PUP in 0 W 20 grade is “minimum needed protection.” I also view the idea that going up grades is definitively better.I think it likely proves your engines have done well at the minimum needed protection, but one does wonder if it would have less total wear at this point had you gone up a grade. Not discrediting your personal experience or saying one way or the other, just thinking out loud. It is likely a question we can’t answer for certain, but what we do know is that sometimes manufacturers do admit to allowing higher grades in other countries OM. It’s likely you’d have the same crazy high mileage running 30 grade is the point.
Yes, I should qualify my post as only speaking to the grade of oil used. Obviously, higher tiers of quality exist within a given grade; as it’s not true that “oil is oil” in terms of all the same quality.I don’t think that, say, PUP in 0 W 20 grade is “minimum needed protection.” I also view the idea that going up grades is definitively better.
Yes, you have a point. My real question is why this oil runs so quiet. Are the anti -friction and anti -wear additives something new? What do boron and moly additives do to reduce friction and quiet valve train?You may wish to peruse some of the numerous other existing threads on this topic. Unless this is just a testimonial, you seem to already know the topic has been pretty thoroughly discussed.
I am running VRP on a 4000 mile OCI. So far I am on my 3rd fill of VRP. I have sent samples to Blackstone after the first 2 OCI's, and will do the same for the next oneI make no claims that any of this can be measured easily or attributed to the inclusion of Chemical A vs Chemical B, but I too have noticed that now near the end of my 2nd run of VRP in my low mileage TSX that the engine is much quieter at idle. I'm sure there are tons of reasons why that could be, but it is immediately noticeable to my ears. In fact, several months ago I posted that I noticed a 'wompwompwomp' sound in the background at idle and that is gone and overall much quieter in all regards.
Being an 11 year old 25k mile car when I bought it last year and now with me putting 5K miles on it as many months, maybe simply driving it more than the previous owner or maybe several OCIs did something, or....... Who knows, but I figured why not use VRP since it is the price of most other reputable brands on the shelf at Walmart.
Are you running each OCI to 10K or are you saying that 3 OCIs total 10K miles? Maybe someone has experience otherwise, but I've read here that it's (primary) function is not for extended drains.
Adding a TBN measurement could be a useful test to see how long you can drive on VRP ?I am running VRP on a 4000 mile OCI. So far I am on my 3rd fill of VRP. I have sent samples to Blackstone after the first 2 OCI's, and will do the same for the next one
I’m not interested in getting the most miles possible from a VRP oil change. I plan to run about 4k miles per oci, as recommended by Valvoline. Maybe VRP is not robust enough for longer oci’s?Adding a TBN measurement could be a useful test to see how long you can drive on VRP ?
Use WIX lab in Norcross GA. I’ll die before I give “black-stoners” my hard earned $$$I’m not interested in getting the most miles possible from a VRP oil change. I plan to run about 4k miles per oci, as recommended by Valvoline. Maybe VRP is not robust enough for longer oci’s?
I know that this is just a seat of the pants impression, but I feel that my older Pilot runs much better on VRP. Instead of giving Blackstone more $ for TBN, I will just pay for the oil to do 4k oci’s. I do plan to do a couple more UOA, and I will plan to post the results.
Fair enough. I will just let this rest, and get back to you in a year. Should have about 20,000 miles on VRP by then at 4k OCI. I will post all UOA' s too.Those Honda Pilots sure are peppy these days.
Some members above posted what they believe are the additives. I would think they must be somewhat different or all oils would work the same, but VRP seems to clean exceptionally well.
If it works for you that is great. I would like to hear your opinion a year or so from now. I haven't read much negative about it.
I think ppl are curious about it and it has gained a somewhat mystical aura.
We will need updates with pictures of the oil changes along the way otherwise this will be like a Burlesque show. Just enough teasing to keep us intrigued.Fair enough. I will just let this rest, and get back to you in a year. Should have about 20,000 miles on VRP by then at 4k OCI. I will post all UOA' s too.