Volvo Factory Fill

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Anyone know what grade Volvo uses for factory fill in the 2.4 NA engines? If it is 5W30, I want to change it immediately because the manual says that grade is only good to 84 degrees and it is close to 100 in Texas right now. If it is 10W30 or 5W40, I'll leave it in for a while.

Also, any tricks to changing Volvo oil? Is the filter a cartridge like our BMW was?

Thanks!
Jon
 
5w-30 only good for up to 84 degrees???
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Since when did this happen?
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JonC:
Do a search in the UOA section. I remembered there was one and found it here. This is the high pressure turbo model, with some fuel contamination, but the oil had thinned considerably. At 2k miles the oil needed changing.
 
quote:

Originally posted by bighead:
5w-30 only good for up to 84 degrees???
shocked.gif


Since when did this happen?
dunno.gif


http://apps.volvocars.us/ownersdocs/2004/2004_V70/04v70_08b.htm#pg137

quote:

Operation in temperate climates
Incorrect viscosity oil can shorten engine life. Under normal use when temperatures do not exceed 86 °F (30°C), SAE 5W/30 will provide good fuel economy and engine protection. See the viscosity chart below.

Operation in hot climates
When temperatures exceed 86 °F (30°C) in your area, Volvo recommends, for the protection of your engine, that you use a heavier weight oil, such as SAE 10W/30. See the viscosity chart below.

Extreme engine operation
Synthetic oils meeting SAE 10W/30 and complying with oil quality requirements are recommended for driving in areas of sustained temperature extremes (hot or cold), when towing a trailer over long distances, and for prolonged driving in mountainous areas.

They even recommend DOT 4+ brake fluid (isn't that DOT 5.1?).
 
The manual suggests that 10w-30 or 5w-40 are good choices, ACEA A1/API SJ/GF2 or better. This is no "elixir", it's plain old motor oil. It shouldn't be hard to find. That said, a good synthetic is a good idea - Castrol Syntec 5w or 10w-30, Mobil 1, or a host of others are all just fine.

I'm sure that the Volvo factory fill is selected for the market - that's the last thing they'd skimp on if it meant more warranty claims later on.

DOT4+ brake fluid is not the same as 5.1, although 5.1 would probably work fine - it would just cost more. Most over the counter DOT rated brake fluids have the boiling point on the label, and a remarkable percentage exceed the minimum DOT4 requirements by a good margin, even if they're only DOT4 labeled.

Cheers
JJ
 
I read somewhere they used 0w30 for break in if memory serves. My 94 loves M1 5w40. You should be able to use it year round.
 
I'll probably change the oil soon just in case they filled it with 5W30. The fact that the manual lists 5W40 as being good makes me think that the engine probably likes thick oil. I'm thinking about using M1 0W40 or 5W40.

Jon
 
I have an 850 Turbo and tried M1 0w-40. I live near San Diego and travel a lot between here and Phoenix. My Volvo has a switch that blocks the use of the A/C when the oil temp gets too high or the oil pressure too low. On my first trip at 110+ the A/C got blocked and it was a hot trip in a black wagon. I though it was just a chance thing until it happend again. I changed to Red Line 10w-40 and it's never happened. I'm not saying you should use RL but M1 is a thin 40 weight and was not up to the job, in my case. I probably could have used RL 5w-40 or something else like Amsoil 5w-40.
 
Volvo has gone to 5W-30 in the U.S. under the usual pressure from the EPA. The same 2.4 NA engine listed on Valvoline's Australian web site shows a 15W-40 recommended.

I'd use a 15W-40 or 5W-40 in your engine. If it was a turbo, I'd use the 5W-40 for sure.

I think DOT 4+ and DOT 5.1 are the same thing. They are brake fluids with performance equal to the silicone DOT5 fluid, but made of the usual polyglycol ether base material. I like the ATE brake fluids. I alternate between the amber colored and the blue dyed fluid each time I flush and renew the fluid.


Ken
 
Drive the car easy for 1000 miles - then go to 10W30 Mobil 1. Warranty requirements satisfied. That motor has a oil/water heat exchanger the same as the turbo units, but with a much lower heat loading. You'll be fine.

When changing oil - get the volvo filter kit - comes with a replacement brass crush washer for the oil fill plug and new rubber o-ring for the filter canister.

I use a strap wrench to remove the plastic filter canister - and keep a spare canister on the shelf - just in case. Never had an issue.

MAT
 
quote:

Originally posted by bbcmat:
When changing oil - get the volvo filter kit - comes with a replacement brass crush washer for the oil fill plug and new rubber o-ring for the filter canister.
MAT


Are you recommending that I buy the filter and kit from a Volvo dealer? I bought Wix for our BMW 325 and it came with a new washer and o-ring. I may check it out to see if Wix includes these same items for Volvo, unless there is a reason I should only use OEM. Thanks.

Jon
 
quote:

Originally posted by pscholte:
I know Volvo recommends Castrol...now as to the grade...
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The British brands owned by Ford (including Land Rover in my case) apparently all recommend Castrol as part of a "strategic alliance." Volvo is part of the same group. That may or may not have anything to do with Castrol's oil itself.

My manual allows for 30 weights only to 85F also (30 C).
 
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