Valvoline Restore and Protect

[4WD]

I know one regular that’s over the top. But many here get emotionally attached to different brands. Especially filters for some reason.

bcs when I was young - could only afford canned oranges and orange cans

 

[Pablo]

bcs when I was young - could only afford canned oranges and orange cans

Don’t put the orange Goop in your engine. It’s got grit.

 

[4WD]

Don’t put the orange Goop in your engine. It’s got grit.

you glad they don’t make oil - Valvoline is

 

[gunnellett]

Couple of weeks ago I sent an email to Cummins in the UK requesting a quote for some Valvoline Premium Blue Restore for our Transporter & Volvo.

Well today I had a phone call from a technical manager within Valvoline here in the UK who has just returned from the US learning about Restore & Protect. It's coming to the UK around February and will come in higher viscosity options more suited to our engines. In the meantime, they're going to try find me a sample to try!

I'm so excited!

Maybe a version for diesel?

Edit:
I misread another post. Dang. I didn't notice you sent the email to Cummins so I guess they would be talking about a diesel version.

 

[Wheel366]

I ran the VR&P to 5500 miles on our 2018 Audi Q7 3.0 supercharged engine on the last run before changing and didnt notice it got any noisier or less smooth. It was still running so smooth, I'd have to look at the tach to see if the engine was running or not or if I had even started it before taking off. The engine literally has no vibration or noises to tell me its running. Quite the contrast to when we bought it when it was gobbling a quart of oil in 400 miles, was down on power & fuel mileage with the dealer supplied Castrol Euro 5w-40 in the crankcase. With the VR&P it's done better and better with every change after the initial Berrymans B12 piston soak and BG EPR single flush. I'm still planning to run VR&P forever in this Euro SUV at 5-6000 mile intervals along with all of our vehicles.

My sister has an A6. I think it is the 2018 and don't know which engine, if there was an option. She has been having an issue with the oil light coming on and taking it to the dealer and not getting anywhere with it. I just sent her the link to Walmart and VRP to try it. We'll see if she does.

 

[KnappAttak]

My sister has an A6. I think it is the 2018 and don't know which engine, if there was an option. She has been having an issue with the oil light coming on and taking it to the dealer and not getting anywhere with it. I just sent her the link to Walmart and VRP to try it. We'll see if she does.

If its a 3.0t its the same CREC engine. If its consuming oil at a rapid rate something has to be done quick. They are known to eat exhaust valves when the carbon hangs them open. I'd tell her too get the VR&P in there as quickly as possible, and to run a couple tanks of fuel with heavy doses 24-32 oz per tank of Yamaha Ring Free plus thru it and get out and run it in strictly sport mode for those two tanks of fuel.

Many on the Audi forum are having great success doing this now. Some are still doing the Berrymans B12 piston soak, but that takes a bit of work with mechanical abilities. Most Audi people dont have these mechanical abilities. Yamalube Ring Free, Berrymans B12 piston soaks and VR&P will be her best bets to free up the oil control rings and get the oil gobbling under control. Using VR&P alone will take too long if its gobbling oil at a rapid rate, using the Ring Free from Yamalube will help to free the rings up from the top side as well as cleaning the piston crown, chambers & valves and act more quickly without doing the Berrymans B12 piston soak.

The CREC 3.0t engine has low tension ring pack and other oils will just plain stick the oil control rings, this includes the Euro oils.

 

[ChrisD46]

It really is a game changer. Boutiques still have a firm hold on severe service, racing, and extended drains, but for 90+% of drivers this $29 oil at Wally is unbeatable.

My dilemma is after 4 or 5 VRP OCI’s - do I stay with VRP 5W30 or go back to M1 0W30 ESP ? My vehicles run very quiet on the VRP and gas mileage is good . M1 ESP is a couple dollars cheaper at WM than VRP but over the life of an OCI not a deal breaker to use VRP. I had good success with M1 ESP as well but doubtful the M1 ESP can clean existing ring carbon and piston deposits like VRP.

 

[Glenda W.]

My dilemma is after 4 or 5 VRP OCI’s - do I stay with VRP 5W30 or go back to M1 0W30 ESP ? My vehicles run very quiet on the VRP and gas mileage is good . M1 ESP is a couple dollars cheaper at WM than VRP but over the life of an OCI not a deal breaker to use VRP. I had good success with M1 ESP as well but doubtful the M1 ESP can clean existing ring carbon and piston deposits like VRP.

That’s a tuff call. ESP is a higher quality oil but R&P cleans those pistons. In about 40k miles I’ll know if ESP can keep my problem pistons clean.

 

[Pablo]

My dilemma is after 4 or 5 VRP OCI’s - do I stay with VRP 5W30 or go back to M1 0W30 ESP ? My vehicles run very quiet on the VRP and gas mileage is good . M1 ESP is a couple dollars cheaper at WM than VRP but over the life of an OCI not a deal breaker to use VRP. I had good success with M1 ESP as well but doubtful the M1 ESP can clean existing ring carbon and piston deposits like VRP.

What was used before ESP?

 

[Wheel366]

If its a 3.0t its the same CREC engine. If its consuming oil at a rapid rate something has to be done quick. They are known to eat exhaust valves when the carbon hangs them open. I'd tell her too get the VR&P in there as quickly as possible, and to run a couple tanks of fuel with heavy doses 24-32 oz per tank of Yamaha Ring Free plus thru it and get out and run it in strictly sport mode for those two tanks of fuel.

Many on the Audi forum are having great success doing this now. Some are still doing the Berrymans B12 piston soak, but that takes a bit of work with mechanical abilities. Most Audi people dont have these mechanical abilities. Yamalube Ring Free, Berrymans B12 piston soaks and VR&P will be her best bets to free up the oil control rings and get the oil gobbling under control. Using VR&P alone will take too long if its gobbling oil at a rapid rate, using the Ring Free from Yamalube will help to free the rings up from the top side as well as cleaning the piston crown, chambers & valves and act more quickly without doing the Berrymans B12 piston soak.

The CREC 3.0t engine has low tension ring pack and other oils will just plain stick the oil control rings, this includes the Euro oils.

Apparently, this has been happening for a while and she has a case open with Audi but she just told me she isn't pursing this with them anymore and she just had to add oil.

She is in CA so I can't assist her. Yet, I re-emphasized to her to try this stuff for a min of 4 OCIs. We'll see if she actually does it. My guess is probably not. Also told her that if she uses it, to do 5k oil changes and not extended changes.

 

[buster]

My dilemma is after 4 or 5 VRP OCI’s - do I stay with VRP 5W30 or go back to M1 0W30 ESP ? My vehicles run very quiet on the VRP and gas mileage is good . M1 ESP is a couple dollars cheaper at WM than VRP but over the life of an OCI not a deal breaker to use VRP. I had good success with M1 ESP as well but doubtful the M1 ESP can clean existing ring carbon and piston deposits like VRP.

It can't. That's what makes VRP unique. Some just can't believe it for some reason.

 

[Pablo]

It can't. That's what makes VRP unique. Some just can't believe it for some reason.

Cleaning, I tend to agree.

I know this pisses off the bandwagon, but how could it NOT be true that some oils don't cause as much build up as other oils? I have been challenged for saying this. One guy said I was talking down VRP, whatever that meant.

 

[SammyChevelleTypeS3]

Cleaning, I tend to agree.

I know this pisses off the bandwagon, but how could it NOT be true that some oils don't cause as much build up as other oils? I have been challenged for saying this. One guy said I was talking down VRP, whatever that meant.

Suppose after so many claims by companies over the years that never really lived up to the hype some are skeptical still.
Now I have to think with the amount of folks @BITOG using and praising it, I would tend to accept what they are seeing and saying.

What surprises me is how this time there is no "monkey see , monkey do." So far we don't have the other oil companies bombing us with all kind of claims about the new things their oils can do. VR&P must have really caught the others asleep at the wheel this time?

I have yet to try it. I have too much HPL in stock I am satisfied with and no current issues to make me try it. I certainly would not hesitate if I thought I need it in the future. Just too many folks praising it to not think there is something good going on with it.

 

[Sacredheals]

Suppose after so many claims by companies over the years that never really lived up to the hype some are skeptical still.
Now I have to think with the amount of folks @BITOG using and praising it, I would tend to accept what they are seeing and saying.

What surprises me is how this time there is no "monkey see , monkey do." So far we don't have the other oil companies bombing us with all kind of claims about the new things their oils can do. VR&P must have really caught the others asleep at the wheel this time?

I have yet to try it. I have too much HPL in stock I am satisfied with and no current issues to make me try it. I certainly would not hesitate if I thought I need it in the future. Just too many folks praising it to not think there is something good going on with it.

I'd only ever use VRP if I had an engine with issues over HPL. HPL I am sure is a vastly better oil overall it's just not going to "actively clean" as much.. But if you take care of your car then who needs that? HPL still does some cleaning... Even if you have a slightly dirty engine maybe do it for 5 oil changes before you switch over.. Then you don't have to do super short intervals with the HPL to get it clean at first.

 

[buster]

Cleaning, I tend to agree.

I know this pisses off the bandwagon, but how could it NOT be true that some oils don't cause as much build up as other oils? I have been challenged for saying this. One guy said I was talking down VRP, whatever that meant.

I agree with you. I think those that run longer drains or want peace of mind if they go further than OE drains should stick with the Amsoil/M1 EP/HPL oils. They're great and keep deposits from forming. We've seen the piston photos Amsoil provided after the IIIH double length. Very clean.

For OE drains and those that don't need anything beyond a regular non-euro synthetic should opt for VRP.

I kind of separate off-shelf and boutique. I like both for different reasons/applications.

 

[Sacredheals]

I agree with you. I think those that run longer drains or want peace of mind if they go further than OE drains should stick with the Amsoil/M1 EP/HPL oils. They're great and keep deposits from forming. We've seen the piston photos Amsoil provided after the IIIH double length. Very clean.

For OE drains and those that don't need anything beyond a regular non-euro synthetic should opt for VRP.

I kind of separate off-shelf and boutique. I like both for different reasons/applications.

Then there's me that goes half OEM OCI with those oils lol

 

[Glenda W.]

You can bet if another oil could reverse piston ring deposits completely they would be jumping on the R&P bandwagon. It’s just too popular. I bet others will eventually follow suit.

I do believe HPL and Amsoil SS can keep pistons almost factory clean even in severe service and extended oci’s. I also believe they can remove some piston deposits. The question is to what extent?

 

[SammyChevelleTypeS3]

I'd only ever use VRP if I had an engine with issues over HPL. HPL I am sure is a vastly better oil overall it's just not going to "actively clean" as much.. But if you take care of your car then who needs that? HPL still does some cleaning... Even if you have a slightly dirty engine maybe do it for 5 oil changes before you switch over.. Then you don't have to do super short intervals with the HPL to get it clean at first.

100% agree.

 

[SammyChevelleTypeS3]

Then there's me that goes half OEM OCI with those oils lol

I totally have to ignore the wife's Honda Accord's OLM recommendation. It will only get to the 15% oil life / time to change at about 10,000mi. That is gambling, or asking for dirty engine or future issues no mater what expensive Gold Standard oil anyone would use.
I am a long time "boutique" oil user from over 25 years Amsoil use and as of late in wife's car a user of HPL. Still not ever doing 10,000mi.
Autos are far too expensive to own and upkeep to go cheapo on oil or long extended oci IMHO.

 

[Sacredheals]

I totally have to ignore the wife's Honda Accord's OLM recommendation. It will only get to the 15% oil life / time to change at about 10,000mi. That is gambling, or asking for dirty engine or future issues no mater what expensive Gold Standard oil anyone would use.
I am a long time "boutique" oil user from over 25 years Amsoil use and as of late in wife's car a user of HPL. Still not ever doing 10,000mi.
Autos are far too expensive to own and upkeep to go cheapo on oil or long extended oci IMHO.

Yeah and I'm sure it's an in town driver.. I would never touch at above 10K then... Even the BG dynamic restore kit is what like 300-400 dollars? With a risk of clogging your pump? Nah I'll change my oil more often.

If you don't care about the car at all sure do whatever... Hell I'd even say if you only keep the car for 100-150K miles 15K is fine on Amsoil... But I wouldn't do that even because I couldn't sleep at night knowing I gave someone a car that's probably going to have issues soon.