Valvoline Restore and Protect skepticism

You know this is a REALLY IMPORTANT post here!
Not being used per OP direction so therefore anyone recommending it is "Drinking Kool-Aid". :ROFLMAO:
Also, OP "Don't use this in new cars since that makes no sense". Disregarding the evidence that suggests otherwise.
Can't make this stuff up! ha! :LOL:
One piece of evidence is that it lacks the Dexos seal, which many new cars require.
 
Looking forward to your write up, but very much in doubt that the QSFS caused the problem. I would also ask how much varnish we are talking about. I have seen more than a few K24s that have 200k, a visible layer of varnish visible after valve cover removal, but ticking along like new. I draw a wall between mild (?) varnish and piston ring deposits, impaction.
I’ll have before and after pics. Deep orange varnish. The fact that it’s getting cleaned up shows it is oil related.
 
An engine with some deposits on the oil control rings and drain holes = clapped out? Also I know you saw and responded to the post I made about 5k intervals using oem spec oil from the dealer on that thread about someone asking what to use on their new 3.0 ecoboost. You wanna tell the owner of that car that his car is clapped out from the control rings clogging at 18k miles after "doing the right thing" and using oem oil at the dealer at oem intervals?

 
But being this is an OIL forum, and we haven't really seen anything new or interesting other than off-shelf vs bloated boutique oils, this was a different type of product and to me interesting.

Let me just be clear in that I'm not saying it's the best oil in the world. It has limitations like any other oil.
This ^

It’s something “different” rather than another me too EP or HM oil or your grandpa/dad’s old oil. If one is going to land on Supertech, Kirkland, M1 or whatever oil you prefer in everything for now and all of time then fine. That’s your position. And honestly it is not one that’s a far deviation from norms. Lots of DIYers take this approach.

As far as presenting a counter argument, there’s nothing wrong with being the voice of disscent. It’s needed in any health debate or endeavor. However present the position and counterpoints first. Saying general statements with no supporting evidence and claiming I’m a skeptic and y’all are wishful thinkers and koolaid drinkers is more of an ad hominem approach rather than a dissenting argument with substance.
 
At one point I merely asked why so many people on THIS FORUM - not the world- would need it.

I was called a hater
Everyone around here catches hate at some point.

More that a few thought it was lunacy when I was an early adopter of 0W16 in our Toyota.

You’ll wear the engine out. It won’t last 50K miles. It’s like water. You’re only getting .00000001 better mpg than using 0w-40. Look Toyots allows 15w-40 in Transylvania and Sri Lanka. All the classics to any change from the norm.
 
I wouldn’t say just this forum. My opinion is API and Dexos aren’t stringent enough especially in the engine/piston cleanliness department.

I personally put far more faith in a product like Mobil 1 ESP 0w20 to not create a problem rather than VRP to correct the problem that may never exist in any meaningful way. Also VRP is always higher priced than similar products that some might suggest offer Superior performance.
 
I personally put far more faith in a product like Mobil 1 ESP 0w20 to not create a problem rather than VRP to correct the problem that may never exist in any meaningful way. Also VRP is always higher priced than similar products that some might suggest offer Superior performance.
I’m currently testing this theory in my Subaru. In about 40k more miles I’ll have your answer!

I do believe there’s oils that can keep problem pistons clean. I have the perfect test engine. Problem is I can only test one oil at a time and it takes 60k miles and around 3 years for me.

The alternative is to just run R&P, Amsoil SS, HPL and never worry about it.
 
Last edited:
I use it in three of my vehicles. No reason other than it's about the same price as everything else at Walmart and I drive old stuff, two with unknown histories and the other with nearly 200k so why not? I don't expect a miracle, but if after a while it helps the piston rings to not start sticking or some sludge deposits are cleaned out why not? Gotta change the oil anyway.
I would use it in the other two but those currently get the 10w30 stash I want to use up.
 
Last edited:
I'm not a Valvoline fan boy, but weren't they the one who developed Premium Blue in conjunction with Cummins? IIRC, Cummins was searching for an oil that provided the wear protection and ability to clean deposits they demanded and Valvoline developed one with them. Supposedly, this technology was used for VRP as well.
 
An engine with some deposits on the oil control rings and drain holes = clapped out? Also I know you saw and responded to the post I made about 5k intervals using oem spec oil from the dealer on that thread about someone asking what to use on their new 3.0 ecoboost. You wanna tell the owner of that car that his car is clapped out from the control rings clogging at 18k miles after "doing the right thing" and using oem oil at the dealer at oem intervals?


As i posted in the other thread, the video states there was coolant intrusion into the cylinders. Than causes sludge.
 
Back
Top Bottom